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post #121 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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In preparation for eng/trans install I've dial indicated the bellhousing and just waiting for the off set dowel pins I've ordered. I need your opinions on the best way to lift the engine. I've seen some use a bracket bolted to the intake manifold where the carb mounts and others bolt to the front and back of the heads. I have a load leveler and could bolt to the heads but I would have to remove the alternator and coil/power steering pump or is it better to remove the carb and get the bracket to mount on the intake? I'm still a week or two from being ready to do the install.
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #122 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 05:28 PM
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I always use a carb lift plate for carb'd engines. Easy to put on/take off and gets the job done. I've even found it's not necessary to use the balancer, even though I have one. Use the front hole and it naturally tilts down and drops in pretty easily.




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post #123 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 10:10 PM
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I had a similar situation w/ the levelor on mine. Front holes were mostly used up. So i got an old serpentine belt and wrapped it under the spacers for the alt and PS pump mount bolts. I can bring my selection of belts when we do the install.
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post #124 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-18-2017, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Craig, this will be a first for me. A Fiat 600 and 63 VW dune buggy don't count. I have a carb lift plate on order, eta Fri. Any thing you can think of let me know. I'll put it on jack stands also on the day of install. Right now I have the trans a frame and drive shaft safety loop loosely installed.
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #125 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-19-2017, 09:08 AM
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If you got your engine from Mike Forte you are going to need to pull the carb off anyway as it will likely have a thin aluminum plate between the carb and intake for shipping.

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post #126 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-19-2017, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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If you got your engine from Mike Forte you are going to need to pull the carb off anyway as it will likely have a thin aluminum plate between the carb and intake for shipping.

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I checked this morning and nothing between carb and intake except the gasket.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #127 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-19-2017, 03:15 PM
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You may not have had one. I called to talk to him about my linkage not moving more than a fraction of an inch and felt like an idiot when he pointed out they put a plate between for shipping. I didn't see it until I pulled the carb off and flipped it over. The plate was stuck to the gasket so it stayed attached to the carb when it was removed. It's a thin piece of aluminum.

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post #128 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-19-2017, 05:58 PM
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I would leave the trans A frame off and probably the safety hoop too. As the eng/trans is slowly going backward it is quite easy to lift the tailshaft up a little and let it temporarily sit on the cross tube. At that point we can slow down and think about sticking the drive shaft into the trans. It is real short as you see and so it is difficult to get the long snout into the trans if the trans is bolted in. We can also slip the hoop over the shaft but let it hang. It is very easy to lever the A frame into position. On one I helped w/ I put the rear of the A frame on top of the frame ear, a nd dropped a bolt through to locate it. Then I just pushed up on the front ends. I bolted them up one at a time. Did all that myself laying on the floor so you know it isn't hard to do. BTW, can you cancel the carb plate? I have a new levelor.

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post #129 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-19-2017, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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The Carb plate has already shipped. I have a new leveler also. Have you ever used adjustable bell housing dowel pins? I'm just about to pop my cork with these things. Had to stop trying for today. I'll pull the trans a frame and drive shaft loop.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
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post #130 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-20-2017, 01:01 PM
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Sorry I have no experience w/ them. Anyone else?

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post #131 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Big thanks to Bill at ffmetal (forum vendor) He is producing the firewall forward again and I got the very first one. Since he is so close to me he drove to my house yesterday to deliver and test fit it. Turns out it fit perfectly. Here are a few pics.
JR
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File Type: jpg IMG_0445.jpg (244.0 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0446.jpg (248.7 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0447.jpg (245.4 KB, 107 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0448.jpg (243.2 KB, 104 views)

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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post #132 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 06:28 PM
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That looks really nice. I like the bulb seal to mate to the existing foot box panels; that's a more elegant solution than the original in my opinion.

Have fun drilling all those holes!


John
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post #133 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-24-2017, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks John. I'm thinking of eng/trans going in on Fri 8/11. Let me know
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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post #134 of 335 (permalink) Old 07-25-2017, 01:05 AM
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Have fun drilling all those holes!

John
BTW, I'd only drill and rivet half of those holes, just saying.
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post #135 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-09-2017, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Back at it

Been laid up for a few weeks. First day in the garage today. Looking forward to Friday for eng/trans install.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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post #136 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-11-2017, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Success

The eng/trans are in thanks to CraigS, Tom and Henry thanks again. We had to shorten the actuator rod for the hyd clutch by probably 1 1/4". Also since I have a Dart block the motor mounts had to be massaged quite a bit but when we were ready the install took about 15 mins. John sorry you couldn't make it. I have a lot more room in my garage now, very happy.
JR
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File Type: jpg IMG_0452.jpg (254.5 KB, 112 views)
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File Type: jpg IMG_0454.jpg (259.8 KB, 109 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0455.jpg (246.6 KB, 98 views)

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18

Last edited by JRCuz; 08-18-2017 at 01:44 PM.
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post #137 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 11:54 AM
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Looks great JR! Sorry I missed it. Next time for sure.


John

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post #138 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 02:42 PM
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JR,

Congratulations ... it sure looks very nice sitting on the car.

Sincerely,

Carl
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post #139 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 04:00 PM
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Going midshift? You'll need to cut the crossmember out. I did and didn't weld it back. But I know a place where you can get a new, thicker, hole-less tunnel top.
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post #140 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 08:11 PM
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Good one Bill! Always good to get a laugh from the forum! Ah dang, I forgot an emogi and can't add one in an edit.

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post #141 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-19-2017, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Got the correct starter yesterday may install it today might be too hot even with the small window a/c unit I have. Also have to figure out how to run the right angle heater hose from under the alternator.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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post #142 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-19-2017, 02:07 PM
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Looking good! Subd
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post #143 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-20-2017, 02:29 PM
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Hi JR,

I used NAPA Part #NBH 10071 for under the alternator. It's 3/4" on the water pump end and 5/8" on the heater hose end.

IMG_3461 by jhsitton, on Flickr

That went to a 90* fitting (NAPA Part #NBH 9924; 5/8" each end) to match the angle for my heater return.


John
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post #144 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-26-2017, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to get a 3/4" spacer installed with the trans mount(no pics) and also got the drive shaft attached and torqued along with the Metco drive shaft hoop. I think the ebrake cables are OK with the hoop. Also got the trans filled with the recommended fluid(5.28 pints @ $20.00 a qt). Also removed a trans tunnel brace and installed the mid-shifter.
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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post #145 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-31-2017, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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Tried bleeding the brakes today, no joy. I bench bled both m/c's and have the triple CNC reservoirs with the pressure cap for bleeding with no luck. Will read the Wilwood instructions again and try again tomorrow. Any tips and or advice is appreciated.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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post #146 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-31-2017, 12:54 AM
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Tried bleeding the brakes today, no joy. I bench bled both m/c's and have the triple CNC reservoirs with the pressure cap for bleeding with no luck. Will read the Wilwood instructions again and try again tomorrow. Any tips and or advice is appreciated.
JR
I have the exact setup and they bled the first time no issue. For pressure bleeding, the Wilwood instructions won't help much except to confirm the proper order. Bench bleeding may or may not be required for pressure bleeding (I've heard both) but I do it anyway. With the bench bleed completed, and the lines connected back to the MC's, make sure the reservoirs are pretty full, put the pressure cap on the rear reservoir, and pressurize to 8-10 psi. Then go to the upward facing bleed screw on the right rear caliper outboard half. Open the bleeder using a tube into a small container of brake fluid (I use a small Ball jar) and run until no bubbles. The first one will take the longest. Then go to the inboard half. Then do the same thing on the left side. Watch your fluid level and keep pressurizing as needed. Then move the pressure cap to the front reservoir, do the same process on the right side, then the left side. Again watching the fluid level and pressurizing as needed. You should have a hard pedal at that point.
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post #147 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-31-2017, 01:14 AM
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I have the same setup and did it the same way edwardb is suggesting. I had no issue. I also did not bench bleed since I was using the pressurized cap. It did take more fluid through the system than I expected to get all the air out. With some pressure in the system you might want to double check your connections and make sure there are no leaks. I had to make an adjustment to my flex lines and wound up with a small puddle of fluid under a connection. It was probably only a teaspoon of fluid but I was amazed at how much air I had when I bled that side again once I tightened the connection back up.

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post #148 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-31-2017, 06:27 AM
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Wow, really amazing progress. My buddy from DSRLeasing was trying out to achieve something similar, failed basically at the beginning compared to what you did. Nice!
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post #149 of 335 (permalink) Old 08-31-2017, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks edwardb and GlenH. On the first attempt we attempted to bleed without bench bleeding the m/c's and only 2 or 3 pumps on an old foot pump. I had called CNC for info and was told to only use 2 to 5 lbs of pressure. I will use a different pump and 8-10 lbs. There was 1 leak we saw at the junction of the cross line in the rear from the left side to the right side. Hopefully the 8-10 lbs will do the trick.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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post #150 of 335 (permalink) Old 09-04-2017, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to bleed the brakes today and got a firm pedal and no leaks. I'll keep checking. Bone head move on my part the other day was reason I couldn't get the brakes bled. I won't say any more.
JR

Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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