EdwardBĚs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build - Page 16 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #451 of 498 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cobraAZ View Post
Did you install the PCM above the PS footbox instead of through PS firewall only because you have a glove box?
I am planning no glove box but just a heater and am wondering if PCM can fit below heater through PS firewall.
I also may install wiper motor but not sure yet.
I am in AZ so I am concerned about heating of the PCM if left fully in the engine bay.
The location of the PCM in my build is dictated by the length of the PCM cables from the engine. It terminates at the front RH side of the engine. The 2015 and up PCM is smaller than the previous one, and I think would easily fit elsewhere. But not without a cable stretcher. Probably you realize it, but Factory Five shows the same location for the PCM in their revision to the Coyote instructions that now includes the 2015 version.

It might be possible to somehow reroute the main harness and all the branches on the engine and get it pulled more toward the back by disconnecting and moving things around. I've seen where some have done that on the previous version. Then maybe mount it on or near the firewall, footbox, etc. Might be possible with this one, but I didn't pursue it. Also it would likely be possible to modify the cable or make an extension of some sort. But there are two large connectors and several smaller ones, with a bunch of conductors. Not a small task and I personally didn't want to add any more complexity than there already was.

Bottom line, that PCM is made for the harsh underhood environment. Look where it's mounted in a Mustang. They're designed and tested for extreme low and high temps. The mounting plate I came up with (and very similar to what FF shows) acts as a heat shield between the PCM and the exhaust header area. Especially when mounted with an air gap as I did. Plus the PCM itself has heavy heat sinks. I don't think it's a problem mounted where I put it, even in your warmer climate.


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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post #452 of 498 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 04:01 AM
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Excellent detail, very logical, I am proceeding with your wise recommendation. Thanks!

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post #453 of 498 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 05:27 PM
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Is it Casper Electronics that can make plug-n-play extensions for you in any length you desire?

MK II SOLD 03/2013: 302EFI,E303,GT40intake,Twisted Wedge heads,MSD ignition&distributor,4X4, 24#, 3.55, 8 .8.

MK IV Coyote Complete Kit #8075 arrived 6/26/13: 8.8 solid, 3.55:1, TKO 500, PS/PB/ABS/AC, 245/60R15 x 295/50R15, modular dash. Graduated May 2016.

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post #454 of 498 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Is it Casper Electronics that can make plug-n-play extensions for you in any length you desire?
I personally don't have any experience with Casper's Electronics. But they are often cited as a source for O2 cable extensions. Looking at their website, looks like they have Ford O2 and MAF cable extensions. But nothing nearly so complex as what would be needed to extend the PCM cables, if that's what you're asking about.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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post #455 of 498 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 09:23 PM
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Well, this has been one heck of adventure. JOB WELL DONE. Perfection. What more can be said.
And thank you for all you help on my heap.

Thanks,
AL Adkins
Stoneville NC.

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post #456 of 498 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Well, this has been one heck of adventure. JOB WELL DONE. Perfection. What more can be said.
And thank you for all you help on my heap.
Thanks! And you're welcome.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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post #457 of 498 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Build Thread P.S.

I said I was done with the build thread. But I did have a final punch list after Autorama. So this really is the last progress report and maybe has a couple details those following the thread could use.

I’m a few weeks into the 8-10 week waiting period for my Michigan title and VIN tag. Haven’t heard anything, so hoping that’s good news. The weather is gradually getting warmer. With any luck this is going to get wrapped up by the time driving season starts. Needless to say, I’m anxious to get driving.

I put some protection film on the rear wheel flares right behind the doors. This is by far the area that takes the biggest beating from road debris. I bought of chunk of Xpel Ultimate on eBay and cut my own using patterns made for #7750. The Xpel is supposed to be self healing and depending on who you believe better than the usual 3M variety. Could be the same stuff or from the same factory. I’m not sure but it’s OK. Went on the flares fine using the normal wet soapy water process. I played around a little with putting some on the nose, but gave up. There are just too many curves combined with my complete inexperience. Even smaller pieces down low I couldn’t get to lay down satisfactorily. The jury is out whether having film on the front really is a good idea anyway. I’m going to drive without anything on the front, just like I have before. It only took a few hours over several days (as things were drying) to clean up two years of road rash on #7750. I’m OK with that. Goes with the car being a driver.

I ordered a new snapless tonneau cover from Phillip and Kay Deal. Supposed to be done in the next week or two, but no hurry. They are so nice to deal with. Confirmed the Car Cover World cover I had fit OK. Even though officially a single roll bar version it fits the twin rolls bar setup on this build good enough for the (hopefully!) few times I have to use it. The “front” marking on the cover was fading to the point of disappearing so every time I used it involved hunting for that mark. I traced a Factory Five logo onto the front using mostly permanent markers. Looks painted on and turned out pretty good (even if I do say so myself) and easy to find. Got the headlights aimed. Received word from Watson’s Streetworks that they had updated the LED headlight package to use Hella Vision Plus lenses instead of the Autopal ones I received. Also DOT approved BTW. Talked to them briefly and decided to go with the updated lenses since this was a good time to do so. They’re nice and seem a little clearer and better focused. I didn’t particularly like driving #7750 at night because it really was pretty hard to see. I think this is going to be a big improvement.

The biggest remaining task was front and rear wheel alignment. I roughed in the alignment while it was still a go-kart. But didn’t take the time to get it perfect, plus ride height was still pretty rough. Yesterday I wrapped up the alignment and I’m satisfied I have it dialed in to the specs. I was very happy to find one of the bays in my new garage is almost exactly level side-to-side and only a couple tenths of a degree downslope. Worked well. One thing I learned doing the rough alignment was that my Fastrax alignment tool didn’t like the new Factory Five 18-inch wheels. Both because of the size but also because of the cool round edge. I have the 91030 no lip adapters, but the 91000 gauge wouldn’t quite reach. I got through it for the rough alignment by just kind of taping it in place. But I need a better way for the final alignment. I ended up make a small extension to the top connection point and the no lip adapters worked exactly the way they’re supposed to. Visible in this pic:


This is my first IRS build, so first time with a rear wheel alignment. The new IRS setup is supposed to be much easier than the previous design. Loosen the jam nuts, dial it in, tighten, then go. Couldn’t be easier, right? Well, almost. It was easy to get to the adjustment points with the body off. Not quite so easy with it on. The more challenging part I found was the large camber adjustment nut on the UCA is almost impossible to turn with weight on the suspension. Reaching from under the car, once you wiggle to where you finally have a wrench on it, the leverage is such I could barely move it. Charles Atlas I am not. So I jacked it up each time to make an adjustment. Then dropped it back down, rolled it back and forth and bounced on it a couple times to settle the suspension, and checked the measurement. They were pretty close to start. Once to the spec, checked the toe. That one can be reached without jacking the car. There is some interaction between the two, so it takes a few times back and forth to get them both right. The PS came in very quickly. The DS took a lot longer. The instructions say -0.5 to -0.75 degrees camber and 1/8-inch toe in. Mine came in at exactly -0.75 degrees on both sides and the 1/8-inch toe in. Once it was done, I took the wheels off to lock in the jam nuts. I just didn’t trust I could get them sufficiently tight without full access. I used red Loctite on the two camber jam nuts per Factory Five’s recommendation. I didn’t put any on the toe arm nuts. I paint marked all the jam nuts so I can watch and confirm they aren’t moving.

One of the challenges of doing a home alignment is getting everything properly aligned with the chassis. It’s obviously important to have the required toe adjustment. But it also needs to be exactly lined up with the chassis. Some guys use strings for this, and that’s fine. For my last couple builds I’ve been using toe plates and a magnetic level with a laser pointer instead of strings. I think it works really well. Here is one of the Heidts toe plates with the level attached. Note this picture is missing the high tech double garbage bag “turn plates” I put under the tires. For the front toe in, the laser dot shows on the edge of the rear tires since the rear track is wider than the front. But projecting forward, there was nothing for the laser to hit. So I cut two pieces of 1/8-inch hardboard exactly square and exactly the same size. They slide behind the front tires and bank against the 4-inch frame tube and the ground. Then when adjusting the toe, not only am I looking for the 1/8-inch toe in, I’m measuring where the laser dot hits the hardboard and confirming they're the same on both sides. Hopefully that makes sense. Seemed to work really well and I’m satisfied my rear wheels are exactly tracking to the frame.

Toe plate and level on rear wheels:


Laser dot to confirm alignment to the frame. Adjusted so each side was exactly the same dimension from the end of the board along with the proper toe in.


Moving to the front alignment, that was all pretty normal. While a bit of a reach, the UCA adjustment sleeves can be reached with the car on the ground and the body on. Tie rod ends are easy. I was able to get to the +8 degrees caster (power steering setting) without altering the rear sleeve as some have had to do. -0.5 degrees camber and 1/16 inch toe in also landed right on the numbers. I used the laser dot method described before to make sure with the steering wheel exactly centered and the toe in set to 1/16 inch the dot projected to the same spot on the rear tires on each side. Assuming they were set correctly (which I think they were!) then the front should also be on track. With one final check, locked everything down and called alignment done. While I was under there, also added a steering rack travel limit spacer on each side since my tires were hitting the F-panels.

One final note regarding alignment. For those with a 4-post lift, assuming the car is level while on the lift, you have a big advantage for home alignments. You won't have all the fun crawling around and reaching. Certainly would make the process a lot easier.

There are only two items left on my punch list: (1) Continue to monitor ride height. I’m pretty Ok where it is now. We’ll see how much it settles. (2) I want to remove the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel regulator once I’m driving and confirm the fuel pressure is exactly where it should be. Since it’s not on the engine, maybe not the safety hazard that some consider it to be when mounted next to a carb and subject to engine vibration, heat, etc. But I’m going to take it off anyway. No need to take a chance, and can’t read it without a mirror anyway.

Ok, that’s really it. Thanks again everyone for following the build and your incredible comments and support throughout. Road trip in the next week or two to deliver #7750 to its new owner. Then hope it will be time to get some miles on the new build. Said it before, but will again. We are planning to be at the Factory Five Open House in June, and then already registered for London a couple weeks later. Hope to catch up with some of you at one or both events.

Now about that Gen 3 Coupe…

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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Last edited by edwardb; 03-24-2017 at 08:23 PM.
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post #458 of 498 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 03:15 PM
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It sure has been a pleasure following your build (occurs to me that this is a real understatement, considering what I - and many others - have taken away from it). Thanks for sharing, and for all of the help/advice along the way.

Cheers, Dale
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MK II SOLD 03/2013: 302EFI,E303,GT40intake,Twisted Wedge heads,MSD ignition&distributor,4X4, 24#, 3.55, 8 .8.

MK IV Coyote Complete Kit #8075 arrived 6/26/13: 8.8 solid, 3.55:1, TKO 500, PS/PB/ABS/AC, 245/60R15 x 295/50R15, modular dash. Graduated May 2016.

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post #459 of 498 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 02:27 PM
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"remove the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel regulator "
-Are you saying that leaving this on permanently is a hazzard because it could leak or break?
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post #460 of 498 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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"remove the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel regulator "
-Are you saying that leaving this on permanently is a hazard because it could leak or break?
Short answer, yes. Longer answer, on carb'd engines it's somewhat common to install a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel log going into the carb. When I posted a picture of #7750 with one of those gauges installed, I received multiple recommendations to remove it after confirming the proper fuel pressure. Apparently there have been failures of those gauges leading to fuel leaks with obviously serious possible consequences. The firewall mounted gauge in this build doesn't get the vibration of an engine mounted gauge. Plus maybe a little less heat. But still I'm going to follow the same advice and remove it once I've confirmed the correct setting on the regulator. It serves no purpose riding around under the hood anyway. The regulator came with a plug for that fitting. Easy to remove and install the gauge any time needed.


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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post #461 of 498 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 06:05 PM
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Is this the part number of the vw glove box keyed lock that you used?
111857131L
http://www.jbugs.com/product/111857131L.html
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post #462 of 498 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Is this the part number of the vw glove box keyed lock that you used?
111857131L
VW Locking Glove Box Latch | 111857131L
That's the one. Bought it on eBay. See several listed there now, including the vendor in your link.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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post #463 of 498 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 01:25 PM
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Parking brake cable

Hi Paul, I've been looking over your build thread and admiring your work. I recently installed the Wilwood 12.88 brakes on my build. They appear to be the same as yours and my question is did you use the Wilwood park brake cable kit P/N 330-9371? Thanks for your detailed build thread.
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Mk 4 complete kit ordered 1/19/17, delivered 3/23/17 #9059-Dart 347/TKO 600 from Mike Forte, Forte's hyd clutch, KRC p/s, Kirkey high back seats, 2015 IRS, 17x9/10.5 Halibrand replica wheels, 12.88 wilwood brakes f/r. heater/defroster, dual chrome roll bars, FFMETAL new firewall fwd.
First start and go-cart 4/11/18
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post #464 of 498 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Paul, I've been looking over your build thread and admiring your work. I recently installed the Wilwood 12.88 brakes on my build. They appear to be the same as yours and my question is did you use the Wilwood park brake cable kit P/N 330-9371? Thanks for your detailed build thread. JR
Thanks, and you're welcome. To be honest I don't know much about the e-brake cables I used. They were what came with the kit. What I can say though is they weren't the 330-9371 kit you reference. I suspect they were just regular cables (as opposed to Wilwood) and required the adapters they supplied at the calipers. I painted them, but you can see them in this picture.


The other ends were the right length to attach to the FF e-brake handle when routed under the chassis tubes. I cut them off and routed above the chassis tubes and attached with the Lokar clevis shown in my build thread.
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Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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post #465 of 498 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 01:21 PM
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Mustang vent tube:
I ordered the part you recommended but have yet to install it. I looked at the end with the rubber right angle boot and then looked at the vent hole in the differential. Does the right angle boot just push into the vent hole? It almost looks like a threaded tube is missing which would thread into the differential vent hole then push into the right angle boot. Thoughts?
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post #466 of 498 (permalink) Old 05-01-2017, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Mustang vent tube:
I ordered the part you recommended but have yet to install it. I looked at the end with the rubber right angle boot and then looked at the vent hole in the differential. Does the right angle boot just push into the vent hole? It almost looks like a threaded tube is missing which would thread into the differential vent hole then push into the right angle boot. Thoughts?
There is an aluminum fitting part number 2L1Z-4022-BA that goes into that hole with a nipple for the right angle vent tube connection. Some center sections have it already installed (mine did) but others don't. Check this thread for more info and pictures. https://www.ffcars.com/forums/21-ffr-...tallation.html

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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post #467 of 498 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 01:54 AM
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Do you happen to know the final length of your hard fuel line and return. I plan to approximate your work by piecing together two pre-cut and flared sections.
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post #468 of 498 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 04:24 AM Thread Starter
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Do you happen to know the final length of your hard fuel line and return. I plan to approximate your work by piecing together two pre-cut and flared sections.
Sorry, I don't know the actual final lengths. They're buried in the chassis now obviously. I checked my notes though and can confirm I purchased two 10-foot sections of 3/8-inch SS tubing. One each for the sending and return lines. I don't recall having large pieces left over, but it's been a while. Hope this helps a little.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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post #469 of 498 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 04:33 AM
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Iíve now received my Coyote engine, so lots to share there. But first a bit of unfinished business on the IRS. I know there are many options, but I chose to fill with the exact Ford recommended gear lube and friction modifier. Didnít see the Motorcraft products on the shelf at any of my local parts stores, so stopped at the local Ford dealer. He said they donít normally stock the 75W-85 weight. I mentioned that was specified by Ford for the 2015 Mustang IRS, and he responded they havenít replaced the gear lube in too many of those yet. OK I guessÖ Anyway, he ordered what I needed. At the same time, I ordered the Mustang vent tube for the center section. How to handle the vent isnít mentioned anywhere in the FF instructions. The Mustang piece is maybe a little too long, but has the right size right angle connecter to plug onto the center section, and then a plastic vent at the other end, similar to the metal vent used on the 8.8 solid axle Iím familiar with. Once the stuff arrived, I put the first quart of gear lube in, then the 3+ ounces of friction modifier, and then topped off ending up using about 3.3 pints as specified. Once again I was reminded how much that friction modifier stinks! (My wife noticed very quickly as well.) Took about a day for the garage to air out.

These are the products recommended by Ford. Easy enough to find in Mustang specs. Also listed at the end of the FF IRS instructions.


This is the Ford part number for the Mustang vent tube assembly. Itís only $10-12.


Just mocking up how it might be used, this is plugged onto the center section and routed over to the PS.


Iím thinking of tie-wrapping it to the fuel tank vent tube that will come up in this same area in the wheel well. Thatís where the Mustang routes it. Would be easy to shorten.


OK, now to the Coyote adventure. Some months ago when I planned and budgeted this build, using FFís Coyote instructions, other build threads, etc. I planned all the parts necessary, including of course the engine itself. I had several sources in mind to buy it from, mainly shopping price to be honest. When I was ready to click the button to purchase last week, the first place I went said ďFord Coyote M-6007-M50 no longer available, replaced with M-6007-M50A.Ē Went to a number of sites and found the same message, although some with the M-6007-M50 still available in limited quantities. Turned out what I was seeing, and I guess I must be living under a rock, is that Ford made some pretty significant changes starting in 2015, and M-6007-M50A is the 2015-2016 Coyote motor. I immediately noted it has more HP and torque, so no complaints there. Then I found they have released a brand new control pack M-6017-504V for the 2015-2016 engine, which is mandatory. The 2011-2014 engine wonít work with the new control pack and the 2015-2016 wonít work the old control pack.

So, after all said and done, I found a great price for the 2015-2016 engine, control pack, engine covers, alternator and starter package, including free lift gate home delivery, and placed my order last Thursday. After a little back and forth discussion, received notice that it shipped on Friday. Monday it was at the freight company, and Tuesday morning it was in my garage. Now thatís service! Turns out (and I didnít know any of this) Coyotes are made in Fordís Essex engine plant, which is right across the river from me in Windsor, Canada. Goes from there to the Ford Racing distribution center in Livonia, MI, also pretty close to me. So it never had very far to go. BTW, the place I bought the engine is not a forum vendor, but I recommend them. They were very interested in my project, patiently made sure I had exactly what I needed, and asked me to send a picture when itís done. Cool! PM me if you want more details.

Just a few words about the 2015-2016 Coyote engine. I am far from a Coyote expert. Iím learning as I go here. Itís rated at 430 HP and just over 400 torque. In the Roadster with the revised intake and straight tube headers, should get a good bump from those numbers. I think it will be enough. Some of the changes to the 2015-2016 engine are bigger heads and valves. Apparently similar to the Boss heads but in cast form. A revised crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and a couple internal changes to the block. A major addition is charge motion control valves (CMCV) added to the intake manifold. This was something used before on 3V mod motors, as I understand, and one of the first performance modifications was to remove them. Ford claims these were done right on the Coyote, and get totally out of the way when open. They are supposed to provide better low-end torque without affecting high rpm power. I understand this also allowed some changes in how the variable cam timing works. All interesting stuff (I guess) but I think itís cool my anniversary edition with the latest 2015 Mustang IRS now will also have the latest Mustang powerplant. The flip side is what might be the implications of the change as I go down a path not travelled yet for these builds (that I know of). Iíll detail what Iíve found out so far. Mostly OK (I thinkÖ).

The engine arrived crated and boxed as many have seen. First time for me seeing a Coyote outside of an engine compartment. Interesting. And HUGE.



Right off the bat, noticed they added an oil cooler to the oil filter location. After checking with some other builders, confirmed thereís no way this will fit. Good news is that it was easily removed. Itís just sitting on top of the normal oil filter location with an extended adapter hold it in place. Side note: Itís a $300+ dollar part! Iím taking a run at eBay to see if the Mustang crowd will take it off my hands.


Next order of business was to get it out of the crate and up onto the engine stand. But before I did I quickly checked the fitment of my just received Quicktime bell housing. Oops! Ordered the wrong one. Good grief. Ordered RM-6060 instead of RM-6080. I amaze myself sometimes, and not in a good way. Exchange underway. I used the side motor mount bolt locations with chains and lots of towels and rags over the engine to hook it up and onto the engine stand. Had to get some metric bolts for the back of the block long enough for the stand, so yet another visit to my friends at Ace. But it mounted up OK. Just barely fit around the flywheel. It comes filled with oil, so drained that out. I didnít have any clean containers, so never really thought to save the oil. I should have! I didnít know it was 8 quarts and that it was synthetic. Put some bucks into the old oil recycle there. Oh well. Yet another lesson learned. I installed the alternator using the supplied Ford Racing kit. Very easy except the one idler wheel they provide but don't show in the instructions. Guessed it needed to replace the one already on the engine, and turns out that was right. Then turned it over and took the stock pan and pickup off and replaced with the Moroso pieces.



I would have loved to lift off that factory gasket/windage tray and peak into the innards there a little. But it was stuck in place with sealant, and I chose not to disturb it. I could see the 4-bolt mains, with the front one pretty visible. Actually I guess 6-bolt if you include the ones through the side of the block. All five are just like this. Pretty stout engine there.


After checking the pickup to pan distance using the clay method (actually plumberís puttyÖ) and finding it just over 3/8 inch (good) I installed the Moroso pan. Also added the engine mounts, just finger tight.


Hi Ed,

Just wondering if you needed to dismantle, pack and reassemble your engine mounts as noted in the Coyote install instructions?

I'm currently at this stage, however there were no spacers given with the kit.

Just an added note, im building a right hand drive version here in Australia, which has some added variations to the LHD instal. This is outlined in the RHD Coyote install instructions.
These instructions call for a spacer fitted between the mount and the Coyote on the right hand side only. I have this spacer only.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Alex

Cheers!

Aussie RHD Mk4 Builder..
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post #470 of 498 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexg View Post
Hi Ed,

Just wondering if you needed to dismantle, pack and reassemble your engine mounts as noted in the Coyote install instructions?

I'm currently at this stage, however there were no spacers given with the kit.

Just an added note, im building a right hand drive version here in Australia, which has some added variations to the LHD instal. This is outlined in the RHD Coyote install instructions.
These instructions call for a spacer fitted between the mount and the Coyote on the right hand side only. I have this spacer only.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Alex
I can't give direct advice regarding RHD, for obvious reasons. But can share what I did with the engine mount spacers. This was discussed a lot during the build with several other Coyote past and current builders. FF initially said only to use a spacer on the left side (LHD drive) and most including me thought this was to tip the engine away from the very close driver's footbox. For my build I found a spacer on each side was fine, and the engine was closer to level giving better header to body alignment. I initially used Whitby spacers between the engine mounts and frame mounts. During my build, FF released spacers that went inside the engine mounts. I'm sure the ones you mention. I thought that was a better solution so ordered them from FF. The pictures below show what they look like out of the package and when installed.

You will need to determine whether one spacer or two gives you the best engine alignment inside the footboxes, the proper oil pan clearance at or above the 4-inch chassis tubes, and the best side pipe alignment. All are affected by the spacer(s). I personally prefer the newer internal spacers, but the external ones work as well. Hope that helps and good luck.



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post #471 of 498 (permalink) Old 07-03-2017, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
Iíve now received my Coyote engine, so lots to share there. But first a bit of unfinished business on the IRS. I know there are many options, but I chose to fill with the exact Ford recommended gear lube and friction modifier. Didnít see the Motorcraft products on the shelf at any of my local parts stores, so stopped at the local Ford dealer. He said they donít normally stock the 75W-85 weight. I mentioned that was specified by Ford for the 2015 Mustang IRS, and he responded they havenít replaced the gear lube in too many of those yet. OK I guessÖ Anyway, he ordered what I needed. At the same time, I ordered the Mustang vent tube for the center section. How to handle the vent isnít mentioned anywhere in the FF instructions. The Mustang piece is maybe a little too long, but has the right size right angle connecter to plug onto the center section, and then a plastic vent at the other end, similar to the metal vent used on the 8.8 solid axle Iím familiar with. Once the stuff arrived, I put the first quart of gear lube in, then the 3+ ounces of friction modifier, and then topped off ending up using about 3.3 pints as specified. Once again I was reminded how much that friction modifier stinks! (My wife noticed very quickly as well.) Took about a day for the garage to air out.

These are the products recommended by Ford. Easy enough to find in Mustang specs. Also listed at the end of the FF IRS instructions.


This is the Ford part number for the Mustang vent tube assembly. Itís only $10-12.


Just mocking up how it might be used, this is plugged onto the center section and routed over to the PS.


Iím thinking of tie-wrapping it to the fuel tank vent tube that will come up in this same area in the wheel well. Thatís where the Mustang routes it. Would be easy to shorten.


OK, now to the Coyote adventure. Some months ago when I planned and budgeted this build, using FFís Coyote instructions, other build threads, etc. I planned all the parts necessary, including of course the engine itself. I had several sources in mind to buy it from, mainly shopping price to be honest. When I was ready to click the button to purchase last week, the first place I went said ďFord Coyote M-6007-M50 no longer available, replaced with M-6007-M50A.Ē Went to a number of sites and found the same message, although some with the M-6007-M50 still available in limited quantities. Turned out what I was seeing, and I guess I must be living under a rock, is that Ford made some pretty significant changes starting in 2015, and M-6007-M50A is the 2015-2016 Coyote motor. I immediately noted it has more HP and torque, so no complaints there. Then I found they have released a brand new control pack M-6017-504V for the 2015-2016 engine, which is mandatory. The 2011-2014 engine wonít work with the new control pack and the 2015-2016 wonít work the old control pack.

So, after all said and done, I found a great price for the 2015-2016 engine, control pack, engine covers, alternator and starter package, including free lift gate home delivery, and placed my order last Thursday. After a little back and forth discussion, received notice that it shipped on Friday. Monday it was at the freight company, and Tuesday morning it was in my garage. Now thatís service! Turns out (and I didnít know any of this) Coyotes are made in Fordís Essex engine plant, which is right across the river from me in Windsor, Canada. Goes from there to the Ford Racing distribution center in Livonia, MI, also pretty close to me. So it never had very far to go. BTW, the place I bought the engine is not a forum vendor, but I recommend them. They were very interested in my project, patiently made sure I had exactly what I needed, and asked me to send a picture when itís done. Cool! PM me if you want more details.

Just a few words about the 2015-2016 Coyote engine. I am far from a Coyote expert. Iím learning as I go here. Itís rated at 430 HP and just over 400 torque. In the Roadster with the revised intake and straight tube headers, should get a good bump from those numbers. I think it will be enough. Some of the changes to the 2015-2016 engine are bigger heads and valves. Apparently similar to the Boss heads but in cast form. A revised crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and a couple internal changes to the block. A major addition is charge motion control valves (CMCV) added to the intake manifold. This was something used before on 3V mod motors, as I understand, and one of the first performance modifications was to remove them. Ford claims these were done right on the Coyote, and get totally out of the way when open. They are supposed to provide better low-end torque without affecting high rpm power. I understand this also allowed some changes in how the variable cam timing works. All interesting stuff (I guess) but I think itís cool my anniversary edition with the latest 2015 Mustang IRS now will also have the latest Mustang powerplant. The flip side is what might be the implications of the change as I go down a path not travelled yet for these builds (that I know of). Iíll detail what Iíve found out so far. Mostly OK (I thinkÖ).

The engine arrived crated and boxed as many have seen. First time for me seeing a Coyote outside of an engine compartment. Interesting. And HUGE.



Right off the bat, noticed they added an oil cooler to the oil filter location. After checking with some other builders, confirmed thereís no way this will fit. Good news is that it was easily removed. Itís just sitting on top of the normal oil filter location with an extended adapter hold it in place. Side note: Itís a $300+ dollar part! Iím taking a run at eBay to see if the Mustang crowd will take it off my hands.


Next order of business was to get it out of the crate and up onto the engine stand. But before I did I quickly checked the fitment of my just received Quicktime bell housing. Oops! Ordered the wrong one. Good grief. Ordered RM-6060 instead of RM-6080. I amaze myself sometimes, and not in a good way. Exchange underway. I used the side motor mount bolt locations with chains and lots of towels and rags over the engine to hook it up and onto the engine stand. Had to get some metric bolts for the back of the block long enough for the stand, so yet another visit to my friends at Ace. But it mounted up OK. Just barely fit around the flywheel. It comes filled with oil, so drained that out. I didnít have any clean containers, so never really thought to save the oil. I should have! I didnít know it was 8 quarts and that it was synthetic. Put some bucks into the old oil recycle there. Oh well. Yet another lesson learned. I installed the alternator using the supplied Ford Racing kit. Very easy except the one idler wheel they provide but don't show in the instructions. Guessed it needed to replace the one already on the engine, and turns out that was right. Then turned it over and took the stock pan and pickup off and replaced with the Moroso pieces.



I would have loved to lift off that factory gasket/windage tray and peak into the innards there a little. But it was stuck in place with sealant, and I chose not to disturb it. I could see the 4-bolt mains, with the front one pretty visible. Actually I guess 6-bolt if you include the ones through the side of the block. All five are just like this. Pretty stout engine there.


After checking the pickup to pan distance using the clay method (actually plumberís puttyÖ) and finding it just over 3/8 inch (good) I installed the Moroso pan. Also added the engine mounts, just finger tight.




Hi Paul,

I noticed you are using a oil low level switch on the Morso pan. Was this purchased separately?
My stock 2016 Coyote oil pan did not have a sensor port at all. I'm using a Canton pan, which has a spare port, but no sensor.

I've scoured the internet and cannot seem to find reference to this sensor. Do you know the part number?

Regards,
Alex.


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Cheers!

Aussie RHD Mk4 Builder..
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post #472 of 498 (permalink) Old 07-03-2017, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexg View Post
Hi Paul,

I noticed you are using a oil low level switch on the Morso pan. Was this purchased separately?
My stock 2016 Coyote oil pan did not have a sensor port at all. I'm using a Canton pan, which has a spare port, but no sensor.

I've scoured the internet and cannot seem to find reference to this sensor. Do you know the part number?

Regards,
Alex
Hey Alex. I didn't buy anything extra. The low oil sensor and harness was part of my 2015 Coyote crate package. It went right into the Moroso pan port. There is some question whether this sensor is even active using the crate motor controls pack. I heard from several that it was not on the Gen 1 Coyote, but nothing definitive for my Gen 2. But it was just as easy to put the sensor in the pan as finding a plug for it, so I just went for it. If your newer Coyote crate doesn't have the sensor or accompanying harness, I would plug the port in the pan and be done with it. Sounds like Ford is doing something different now. You could call Ford Performance tech support and confirm there isn't a sensor or support for it in your PCM if you really wanted to.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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post #473 of 498 (permalink) Old 07-03-2017, 11:55 AM
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FYI I got my IRS retro fit on the road last December. I autocross a lot but no track time. I have nothing but the rubber 90 degree piece on my diff. Nothing comes out of it at all.

FFR 5353K, 408W, TKO 500, 2015 IRS w/ 315 gear, Breeze QA1 DA coilovers front and rear, APE hardtop, Forte front swaybar
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post #474 of 498 (permalink) Old 07-03-2017, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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FYI I got my IRS retro fit on the road last December. I autocross a lot but no track time. I have nothing but the rubber 90 degree piece on my diff. Nothing comes out of it at all.
The question was about the low oil sensor on the Coyote engine oil pan. The Mustang center section vent tube just happened to be in the same post quoted. Agreed, I haven't seen anything come out of it as well.

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post #475 of 498 (permalink) Old 07-03-2017, 09:48 PM
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Hey Alex. I didn't buy anything extra. The low oil sensor and harness was part of my 2015 Coyote crate package. It went right into the Moroso pan port. There is some question whether this sensor is even active using the crate motor controls pack. I heard from several that it was not on the Gen 1 Coyote, but nothing definitive for my Gen 2. But it was just as easy to put the sensor in the pan as finding a plug for it, so I just went for it. If your newer Coyote crate doesn't have the sensor or accompanying harness, I would plug the port in the pan and be done with it. Sounds like Ford is doing something different now. You could call Ford Performance tech support and confirm there isn't a sensor or support for it in your PCM if you really wanted to.
Cheers Paul,
I thought as much and I've capped it off as you suggested.
I found this book quite helpful, it does suggest that the controls pack ignores the low level sensor. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Coyote-E.../dp/1613252897
Alex..

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post #476 of 498 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 08:47 AM
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Cheers Paul,
I thought as much and I've capped it off as you suggested.
I found this book quite helpful, it does suggest that the controls pack ignores the low level sensor. https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Coyote-E.../dp/1613252897
Alex..

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Hi Paul,
Just tried fitting my Canton oil pan. Must say really poor quality, holes dont really line up nor does the pan sit flat without interfering with the windage tray.

I think I'll cut my losses and go for a Moroso!

How did yours fit, any issues? Any chance you know the part number of your pan?

Alex..

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post #477 of 498 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Paul. Just tried fitting my Canton oil pan. Must say really poor quality, holes don't really line up nor does the pan sit flat without interfering with the windage tray.

I think I'll cut my losses and go for a Moroso!

How did yours fit, any issues? Any chance you know the part number of your pan?

Alex..
I used the Moroso 20570 pan and Moroso 24570 pickup. Both bolted up perfectly with no fitment issues to the engine. The only issue was with the oil dipstick. There was an initial fix by Moroso but mine still had a problem. It's been a couple years. Maybe that's been corrected too. But definitely something to check and an easy fix. Talked about it in post #241 here: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/5352298-post241.html.

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post #478 of 498 (permalink) Old 07-30-2017, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
I used the Moroso 20570 pan and Moroso 24570 pickup. Both bolted up perfectly with no fitment issues to the engine. The only issue was with the oil dipstick. There was an initial fix by Moroso but mine still had a problem. It's been a couple years. Maybe that's been corrected too. But definitely something to check and an easy fix. Talked about it in post #241 here: https://www.ffcars.com/forums/5352298-post241.html.
Once again, Thank you Paul for your priceless advise!
Alex..

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post #479 of 498 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 12:16 AM
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Lost in web land...

Paul, (or web guru), How do I get to your build thread where adventures in bracketry, guidance thru the electrical maze, and information on vendors and part numbers abound? I've been gone; now, I'm back. Things have changed. Where are your fellow builders with harrowing tales of building adventures? I'm needy and dependent. Where are the supporting vendors listed? You get the idea... I do thank you for the exceptional build and sharing your journey.
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post #480 of 498 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Paul, (or web guru), How do I get to your build thread where adventures in bracketry, guidance thru the electrical maze, and information on vendors and part numbers abound? I've been gone; now, I'm back. Things have changed. Where are your fellow builders with harrowing tales of building adventures? I'm needy and dependent. Where are the supporting vendors listed? You get the idea... I do thank you for the exceptional build and sharing your journey.
The links to my build threads are in my sig line below. Those links will start you at page 1. The link for supporting vendors is in the menu bar. Advertising on FFCars.com

Welcome back!

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