EdwardBťs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build - Page 14 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
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post #391 of 498 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 03:55 AM
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This years Autorama just got a whole lot better. Good luck Paul! Can't wait to see it!

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post #392 of 498 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 11:39 AM
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Amazing machine, amazing work you've done. Astounding.

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post #393 of 498 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 03:36 PM
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Wow!
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MK II SOLD 03/2013: 302EFI,E303,GT40intake,Twisted Wedge heads,MSD ignition&distributor,4X4, 24#, 3.55, 8 .8.

MK IV Coyote Complete Kit #8075 arrived 6/26/13: 8.8 solid, 3.55:1, TKO 500, PS/PB/ABS/AC, 245/60R15 x 295/50R15, modular dash. Graduated May 2016.

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post #394 of 498 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 11:09 PM
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Excellent choice on the black pinstripes, really sets things off. Top shelf meticulous build!

Having one to drive while taking your time and doing things exactly the way you want on a new build looks like it would be the real trick for me, I'm too impatient otherwise.
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post #395 of 498 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 07:06 PM
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Wow, that paint looks amazing on that beautifully built car! Cant wait to see the graduation pictures.
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FFR MKIV#8523
Kit completion date: Jan 24, 2015
Delivery date: Feb 7, 2015
Coyote/TKO600, IRS

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post #396 of 498 (permalink) Old 01-30-2017, 09:05 PM
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Very very nice Paul. The black pinstripe is really a nice touch.
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MKIV#8707, Picked-up 09/05/15, 351w, TK600, QF680, 15" Halibrands, PS, Wilwoods, Gas-N Headers & Sidepipes, Viking Blue with ith Wimbledon White stripes. First start 03/25/16. First go-cart 04/01/16. Registered and on the road 07/15/16! Painted 03/15/17.
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post #397 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
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Final Assembly Progress

Since getting the build home from paint last Friday, I’ve been chugging away at the final assembly steps. Won’t detail everything I’ve done, but basically front and rear are done, electrical now completely done (and everything works!), trunk lid completely aligned and finalized, filler and cap installed, and a lots of little stuff. These are pictures from this afternoon.





A couple things to wrap up and then I’m going to work on the cockpit carpeting. Once that’s in, I can finalize everything going into the cockpit. I’m planning to carpet the trunk as well, but prioritizing that until last. I can do Autorama three weeks from now without a carpeted trunk. Not my choice, but can if I have to.

Two items to detail a little further. First, true confession. I’m doing all LED lighting, most of which is a package from Watson’s Streetworks. Includes replacement red and amber 1157’s, headlights, and solid state flashers. Side note, you can see the LED headlights in the pictures I posted. Hard to tell exactly from these pics, but they’re a bit flatter than the standard halogens. Some will be OK with that. Others maybe not. But boy are they bright. I like them a lot. For the 1157’s, the bags are marked ESD sensitive and the bulbs are in ESD bags. So other than a quick look and test when received some months ago, I left them in the bags and did all the wiring and installation with the regular incandescent bulbs. With that complete, I proceeded to install them. About half were loose in the sockets and were intermittent. Ugh! Upon further review, I could see the spring loaded piece inside the bulb bases with the two contacts was not moving freely in some cases. So the contacts weren’t firmly against the contacts on the bulbs. Didn’t seem to affect the incandescents, but sure did the LED replacements. Upon further review found the self-inflicted problem. When I put the weather packs on all the fixtures, I had the brilliant idea to remove the rubber piece on the base of each fixture and replace with a piece of adhesive lined shrink sleeving that covered the base and about 3/4-inch of the harness. This, so I thought, would provide some added strain relief and also weather proofing. Good ideas, right? But what I really did was prevent the wires from moving in and out of the base which caused the spring loaded contacts to have very little free movement. Not good. I ended taking all the weather packs off (thank goodness for that pin extraction tool), removing the adhesive lined shrink sleeving, and replacing with a larger size non-adhesive shrink sleeving that didn’t pinch the wires out the base of the bulb. The original rubber covers that came with the bulbs were long gone. Problem solved! All contacts inside the bulbs now moved freely, the LED 1157’s locked in firmly, and all work perfectly.

I’ve received several questions about whether the LED lights are brighter than the stock incandescent 1157’s. The short answer is yes. These are. How much is relative I guess. I don’t have any way to measure them. But they’re clearly very bright even in daylight. Two other comments. One of the characteristics of LED’s is they reach their full intensity very quickly. Faster than incandescents which ramp up a bit when they light. I think this also makes them appear brighter. Especially when blinking like for turn signals and hazards. The other observation is I replaced the incandescent 1157’s in #7750 with some off-the-shelf LED’s from Advance Auto a year or so ago. They seemed OK at the time, but these bulbs from Watson’s are clearly much brighter. Better quality or newer technology? Who knows.

The other kind of big deal was how I spent my day yesterday. Earlier in the build thread I described how I installed a 255 lph in-tank electric fuel pump and 3/8-inch feed and return lines. The Factory Five Coyote instructions say to use a 255 lph pump with the stock provided lines. The Ford Racing Coyote crate instructions say to use a 190 lph pump and don’t (as I recall) talk about fuel line size. I opted for the larger pump, and since my Aeromotive regulator recommended 3/8-inch lines for both feed and return, went with that. This all has been widely discussed in multiple threads. The fuel pump hangar that came with my pump from Breeze had a 3/8-inch feed but a 1/4-inch return. Thinking that was the best I was going to do, installed it and all has been working OK. Over the past months though there has been new discussion about this. Mark now has a 3/8-inch return kit that goes into the top of the tank to replace the 1/4-inch return for high capacity fuel pumps. I really didn’t want to go that way. Then I found out about a new Mustang pump hangar from Pro-M Racing that has both 3/8-inch feed and return lines. Plus it has an extended return tube inside to prevent aeration, and it has 6AN fittings standard. No adapters required. I didn’t relish having to make the swap, but this all sounded good so ordered one a while back. They’ve been backordered, so it didn’t arrive until Monday. I was going to save this until after the show as well. But looking at what was already apart or not installed yet, it would be way easier to do it now. So yesterday I went for it. I dropped the tank and removed the old hangar and pump. Easy and pretty quick. What I found though were two gotchas. The spade connectors on the very large gauge wires on the new hangar weren’t going to work with the butt connectors on the Walbro pump I needed to swap over. Plus the new hangar requires some reliefs to be cut into the tank opening to fit it through. A trip to West Marine found the exactly right shrink sleeve reducing butt connectors. Upon further review, found the reliefs were necessary to clear the extended return tube. Not needed once everything was through the hole. I found I didn’t need to cut the reliefs nearly as much as shown if I just pushed the tube a bit as it was going in (a bit flexible and went right back) so that wasn’t too bad. So the new hangar with swapped pump is installed, the tank back in the chassis. My existing 6AN lines matched prefectly to the new hangar. That was pretty lucky. The Le Mans cap, fill tube, ground strap, and rear splash guards all installed. The pressure at the regulator is a few pounds different now, so will need to adjust that. I'm assuming that means I now have less restriction. I didn’t run the engine yet. This is the hangar I installed. High Flow Fuel Pump Hanger for 1986 - 1997 Mustangs. Check the video. It makes a pretty good case for this change.

The sun was shining today. First time in a couple weeks. That’s the way it is in Michigan winter… But the sun was shining in through the garage windows hitting the new paint color. Wow! I think I’m really going to like this color. That’s it for now. More progress tomorrow. Maybe some more pictures this weekend.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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Last edited by edwardb; 02-02-2017 at 04:01 AM.
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post #398 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 02:17 PM
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Edwardb, beautiful car. I purchased the same hanger, after you posted the info on it. I encountered the same issues on installation. I called Pro M on the spade issue, but they were not interested. I just wanted to give them a heads up the spades. I used a 190 lph pump, bought from Edelbrock. It was a Walbro pump, but has the Edelbrock warranty. I did not have to do any relieving on the tank opening. I found the return line would flex enough to get in, without it. I did cut off both spades and used the plug from the Edelbrock pump to deal with the spade issue. The wires on the Pro M are substantially larger than what Edelbrock sends with their pump. I guess Pro M has to wire for the largest pump possible, which is good.
Thanks for another tip which worked good for me and congrats on the beautiful car.
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post #399 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 02:55 PM
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High Flow Fuel Tank Return

Since our 70750 High Flow Fuel Return Kit was mentioned above I would like to explain it further. It provide an 06 AN return connection with a smooth radius elbow. There is a 3/8" ID internal tube to deposit fuel back into the baffle and minimize aeration. The Kit price is $43.00.


Here is the Pro-M Racing hanger:
High Flow Fuel Pump Hanger for 1986 ? 1997 Mustangs - Individual Fuel Parts - Fuel Supply
It is a great solution if you have not already purchased a hanger and pump assembly. Also a fantastic video on why you need a larger return flow area if you are running a 255lph pump.

By the way, per Ford Racing, 255lph pump is for 540 to 720 flywheel HP with a 10% safety factor.
190 LPH is good for 440 - 540 flywheel HP
155 LPH is good up to 440 HP
Most applications, including the Coyote, properly plumbed, do not require a 255lph pump. I should add that the FFR supplied elbow fuel line fitting does not make the properly plumbed category.

If you have a 255lph pump and have it plumbed to the 1/4" return on the bracket you should either downsize to a 190 or 155lph pump or install either the Breeze 70750 or the Pro-M Racing hanger.

Hope that helps!


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2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.
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post #400 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Reynolds View Post
Since our 70750 High Flow Fuel Return Kit was mentioned above I would like to explain it further. It provide an 06 AN return connection with a smooth radius elbow. There is a 3/8" ID internal tube to deposit fuel back into the baffle and minimize aeration. The Kit price is $43.00.
Hi Mark. Thanks for the additional info. Certainly a good solution and one I would have probably used but it wasn't available when I first put my tank and pump together. Now that I've had fuel in it I didn't want to take the additional precautions necessary before drilling any holes, cleaning up, etc. Plus I wasn't sure my existing lines would reach.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Reynolds View Post
By the way, per Ford Racing, 255lph pump is for 540 to 720 flywheel HP with a 10% safety factor.
190 LPH is good for 440 - 540 flywheel HP
155 LPH is good up to 440 HP
Most applications, including the Coyote, properly plumbed, do not require a 255lph pump...
There seems to be more clarity now about proper pump sizes, fuel lines, pump hangars, etc. than there was 18 months ago when I was trying to sort this all out. But to this day it's still confusing if you take things at face value.

Quote from the latest Ford Performance Coyote Controls Pack instructions: "Fuel pump requirements: 155L/Hr minimum at 55psi."

Quote from the latest Factory Five Coyote Fitment instructions (Rev T dated 11/30/16): "The Coyote engine requires a 255 lph high pressure fuel pump."

I'm satisfied my setup now has more than ample capacity (to say the least) but also no unnecessary restrictions so it should operate properly.


Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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Last edited by edwardb; 02-02-2017 at 03:17 PM.
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post #401 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-02-2017, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
Quote from the latest Ford Performance Coyote Controls Pack instructions: "Fuel pump requirements: 155L/Hr minimum at 55psi.".
Pumps are usually rated at 155, 190 or 255 lph, but at 40 psi /13.5v.

A 190 lph pump flows 190 lph at 40 psi 13.5 volts but only 135 lph at 55 psi/ 12v. You need a 255 lph pump to safely achieve 155 lph at 55 psi 12 v.

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post #402 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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More Final Assembly

Over halfway through my list of final assembly items. One of the open items was to seal the gap between the body and the chassis in front of the doors. For my other builds I’ve used the expanding foam that Factory Five provides, but that needs to be applied before installing the body. Some use other fill materials, also installed before the body goes on. Because of the decision to paint this body on, which I didn’t completely expect, nothing was installed beforehand. I was a little dreading this step, but turned out to be pretty easy. Before installing the side louvers, side pipes, and front splash guards, I removed the doors (which I was planning to do anyway in advance of working on the carpet), and removed the bolts on the underside of the body. This allowed me to flex the body sides out just a bit. Then I used two pieces of the 2-1/4 x 2-1/4 x 42 air conditioner seal foam from Ace Hardware that Jeff Kleiner recommends. I cut each side to length, tapered the ends a bit, and successfully pushed them into position from the wheel well side. Them put the bolts back into the underside, installed the louvers, installed the GAS-N side pipes and hangars, and installed the front splash guards. No gaskets on the side pipes. Just Permatex Ultra Copper sealant. Really happy with how the side pipe installation turned out. Took a couple wedges, but the final result with the GP Headers is by far the best of the builds I’ve done. Then installed the windshield.

After those steps, starting to look even more finished, even with a snow brush holding the hood up.



Finally got to stick on those 20th Anniversary badges. Pretty cool. Those are the Factory Five upgraded louvers that I had silver powder coated.


Completed the wiper installation. I mentioned earlier in the build thread that this wiper setup from Factory Five, new with the kit in August 2015, appears to be a different supplier than in the past. The wheelboxes are noticeably different and work very well. The shafts are a bit longer than before so the wiper arms seems to stand out a bit. But all OK. Low, high, park all working. Another hint that is mentioned a lot but I’ll go head and show here since I know there are a number of first time builders. The parked wipers look much better and more finished if the arms are bent so that the blades are parallel to the bottom of the windshield. The PS takes more bending than the DS. I put the tip in a smooth jaw vise and bump the arm with a hammer. I put some heat with a propane torch on the PS because of the additional bend. Then polished out the slight discoloration. The DS bent OK without any heat. Look like this when you’re done:


Today I finished the hood installation. Ended up with 10 bumpers around the perimeter and I’m really happy with how it lines up. Had to adjust the hinges just a bit. I know some guys struggle with these. Don’t claim to be an expert or very fast at it, but kind of getting the hang of it. The main tip is to close the hood, then reaching from underneath, loosen the mounting bolts just enough to where the hood can be bumped/pushed into position, then re-tighten from underneath. I do them one axis at a time. First side-to-side, then up and down. Couple of the bolts are not easy to reach, but it can be done. With everything adjusted and the gas struts installed, called it done.

I mentioned before I wanted to add some black stripes to the painted Coyote engine cover. Thought about using some pinstripe tape, but couldn’t find anything that wide. Then thought about paint, but really didn’t want to go that way. I stopped by a vinyl sign shop and they sold me couple feet of gloss black vinyl. Cut some strips and applied them wet. I like it. Nice complement to the black pinstripes on the body. Engine compartment now 100% done.


Finally, I’m still at least a couple weeks away from starting the Michigan title and license process. And it will be some weeks after that before I have my license plate. It’s not a real big deal, but I would prefer to have something hanging on the license plate bracket for Autorama. I thought about making something, but then the other day found a company in Austin, Texas that does custom printing including license plate sizes. Mainly I think for people who want something custom for the front where an actual front plate isn’t required. I had a real simple plate made up. It’s painted .040 aluminum with printed on lettering. An introductory special, free shipping, and it was in my mailbox in 4 days. Not bad. This is probably what my real plate will be, but I’m guessing Michigan won’t have this font. This will be perfect for the big car show, and a nice souvenir of the build for my man wall afterwards.


Monday I will start carpeting the cockpit.
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Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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post #403 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-05-2017, 04:41 PM
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MK II SOLD 03/2013: 302EFI,E303,GT40intake,Twisted Wedge heads,MSD ignition&distributor,4X4, 24#, 3.55, 8 .8.

MK IV Coyote Complete Kit #8075 arrived 6/26/13: 8.8 solid, 3.55:1, TKO 500, PS/PB/ABS/AC, 245/60R15 x 295/50R15, modular dash. Graduated May 2016.

MK IV Build Thread:
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post #404 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-06-2017, 02:47 PM
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Stunning. This build gets better and better. Thanks for the "first-timer" tips... I had been wondering about the new, upgraded wipers.
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post #405 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-10-2017, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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Final Assembly Cockpit

Today I nearly finished the cockpit. Just a couple small details remaining. Cockpit carpet is 100% done. Transmission tunnel cover installed, lap belts installed, seats installed. Here are some details and pics.

Back wall carpet done. My favorite go-to carpet adhesive is DAP 00443 Weldwood Outdoor Carpet Adhesive. It may seem like overkill (and it probably is) but it works really well. I've tried about everything, and like this the best. You spread it on one surface with a notched trowel. I use a 1/8-inch. Pretty easy and no overspray. Then push the carpet into place. You can move and reposition as necessary until it’s right where you want it. But it also grabs quite well. A little rolling and it’s done. If any glue gets on the carpet, cleans easily with mineral spirits. I also use DAP Gel contact cement for smaller pieces. But that’s instant grab. Both products are really strong smelling and need good ventilation. I also turn off my garage heater. For obvious reasons.


I like to add a plastic pad by the accelerator pedal. Saves wear and tear on the carpet, plus makes the pedal easier and smoother to operate. After determining the location, I shave back the carpet some, then glue it in place with some weights overnight. Then stitch around the edges. Keeps the edges from lifting. That’s my hand stitching. Don’t look too close.


Then with the carpet installed and pad in the desired location.


Carpet all done, tunnel cover in place, e-brake boot installed. Those wires are for the heated seats. But then you knew that.


This shows some of the edging I described in a previous update. A nice improvement over the raw edge that would normally be in that location.


Seats and lap belts in. I’ll do the shoulder belts after the trunk carpet is installed.


Tomorrow I’ll get started on the trunk carpet. Hopefully done by this weekend. One other quick update. After getting all the lights installed after it came back from paint, I went out to the garage on several occasions and the brake lights were stuck on. Couple times over night. Rattled the pedal and they went back off. Fortunately the LED bulbs are pretty easy on the battery, so didn’t run it down. But still… I had noticed before that the brake pedal switch was very sensitive. Just the lightest touch on the pedal and the lights went on. I tried to adjust it, but no difference. The brake arm was tight against the switch housing and the button in as far as it would go. Even then, it will still turn on by itself. One switch I had came with the kit. The other is a Painless 80172. I needed a second switch for the Coyote top clutch switch, so bought the Painless. They look identical, so I really don’t know which one failed. I did a little research and found the ACDelco D885 is a direct replacement. It’s cheaper than the Painless, and I’ve had good luck with actual branded ACDelco OEM style parts in the past, so picked one up. Right away I could see it was different. The plunger is longer and the switch occurs in the travel. Not with the button all the way in. I changed to this switch (so much fun working under the dash in the footwell…) and it works perfectly and is easy to adjust. Here are the two switches side-by-side. The ACDelco part is on the right.

[
Two weeks from today is my delivery date for Autorama. Don’t want to be overconfident, but feel really good about being ready. Not many parts left in the basement.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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Last edited by edwardb; 02-12-2017 at 03:04 AM.
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post #406 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-10-2017, 11:12 AM
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Looking great Paul. Interesting about the brake switch as mine looks like the Painless on the left and I have a problem where my brake lights won't come on due to it. I thought I had it fixed last Summer but before sending her off to paint the problem returned. I wonder if the AC Delco model would help me?

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MKIV#8707, Picked-up 09/05/15, 351w, TK600, QF680, 15" Halibrands, PS, Wilwoods, Gas-N Headers & Sidepipes, Viking Blue with ith Wimbledon White stripes. First start 03/25/16. First go-cart 04/01/16. Registered and on the road 07/15/16! Painted 03/15/17.
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post #407 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-10-2017, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Looking great Paul. Interesting about the brake switch as mine looks like the Painless on the left and I have a problem where my brake lights won't come on due to it. I thought I had it fixed last Summer but before sending her off to paint the problem returned. I wonder if the AC Delco model would help me?
Wouldn't hurt to try. If nothing else, it's easier and seemingly less critical to adjust. I picked it up on Amazon. < $10. Free shipping and in my mailbox in two days with Prime. Can't beat that.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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post #408 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:06 AM Thread Starter
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Final Assembly, Almost Done

Only a couple parts left in the basement, and nothing loose in the garage. So I guess that means I’m almost done. This will be a short update (by my standards...) and probably the last one before everything is done. Not a whole lot to report on actually.

On my last two builds I used the Dark Water Customs aluminum door sill trim instead of the Factory Five supplied plastic channel sill trim. I don’t remember the Mk3 being too hard. But I really struggled with #7750. The curves didn’t fit the opening all that well, I had interference with the door hinges, and the Mk4 interior sill and carpet are quite different than the Mk3 so it takes a lot of trimming to get the aluminum to fit properly. But the final result looks good, stays on, and is quite durable. So early in this build I put a pair on the Dark Water wish list and some weeks later heard they were ready to ship. My first attempts this time around were similar to #7750. It was going to a bit of a challenge. Even considered just using the standard plastic channel pieces. Then it occurred to me why do they need to go so far up, including behind the hinges? Why not just cut them off below the hinges, similar to how the provided plastic channel installs? That made a huge difference and still looks fine. A little tweaking on the bends, some trimming to clear the carpet, and installed them. Very happy I didn’t give up on them. Also dropped in the special logo floor mats. Fit perfectly and look nice.



With the door sills in place and most of the interior done, hung the doors. Just the slightest final adjustments and they fit and close nicely. Also added the leather door cards I showed earlier. The 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener material I described before seems rock solid for now. We’ll see how they do in the real world. Also hooked up the leather catch straps and added the D-tube seal around the door perimeters.


For my other two builds, once the doors were finally installed and adjusted using washers under the catches on the body, I removed the washers, measured the final thickness, and replaced with spacers. I used thickwall aluminum tubing and (of course) give them a little polish before installing. This time around, there are just a few washers on each side. Fewer than in the past. Maybe I’m getting lazy (or just ready to be done) but I decided they don’t look bad. Tonight I used a small brush and touched them up with the matching powder coat color and called them done.

Then mounted the windwings and visors. I had them all pre-assembled including the Breeze mirrors. Quick and easy to finish.


Also tonight I mounted the H3R fire extinguisher on the back wall centered between the seats. It’s mounted high enough to be completely clear of elbows, etc, for driver and passenger. No picture.

Today I took this overhead shot and it’s the last piece of the car sign I’m making. Even though I noticed when it was all done my center rear view mirror is pointed at the passenger instead of the driver. Oh well. I do my own signs with Microsoft Publisher and have them printed on foam board at FedEx Kinkos. Turn out really nice and for a bit over $30 a good deal. I looked at having a professional sign made for #7750. Some really nice stuff out there, but add a zero to that cost and maybe you’ll have something.


I’m down to trunk carpet, roll bars, and the last of the Simpson harness pieces. Put the wheels/tires back on, one more ride height check, and that’s it. I’ll post some pics then including the setup at Cobo for Autorama. Then planning to close the build thread.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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Last edited by edwardb; 02-12-2017 at 12:04 PM.
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post #409 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 10:31 AM
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Door sill installation.

The build is looking oh so good, Paul. We are running neck and neck toward completion.

I have a question related to your door sill plates and edging. First, did you do any kind of sealing where the sill metal meets the body edge? Sending my sill carpets pieces out for edge binding on Monday and was wondering what size of edging did you use? In all your builds, did you ever think up a metal edge design that would protect the carpet edge, similar to what the carpet binding does?

Looking at a monster snow storm brewing right now, that is expected to dump over 18 inches of white stuff on us. It is fun stuff as long as you embrace it, and not fight it.

Rick
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post #410 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rickscobra View Post
The build is looking oh so good, Paul. We are running neck and neck toward completion.

I have a question related to your door sill plates and edging. First, did you do any kind of sealing where the sill metal meets the body edge? Sending my sill carpets pieces out for edge binding on Monday and was wondering what size of edging did you use? In all your builds, did you ever think up a metal edge design that would protect the carpet edge, similar to what the carpet binding does?

Looking at a monster snow storm brewing right now, that is expected to dump over 18 inches of white stuff on us. It is fun stuff as long as you embrace it, and not fight it.

Rick
Thanks! I've never tried to seal anything at the body sills. It all comes together pretty tight. If/when you have moisture or leaks in the that area I think you would have way more everywhere else.

The binding installed on my carpet has about 3/8 inch showing on the finished side. Maybe a little more on the back side, but can't measure that now. I don't recall a size being mentioned at the auto interior place. It's what they recommended when I did the same thing on #7750.

I have heard of some considering or even installing a metal edge vs. the binding. I don't recall seeing any pictures or in person. I like the look of the binding, and compliments the similar binding on the floor mats once they're installed. Gives an overall nice finished look. But it's definitely another way to go.

Enjoy the snow! We've gotten off pretty easy this year here in Michigan. Couple of decent storms, but nothing like you're getting.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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post #411 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 08:38 PM
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SO TIGHT, SO CLEAN, SO WELL EXECUTED !! MMM !! It's beautiful brother !..da bat.......btw, Kleiner is sayin you're getting paid by the word,,,,WASSUP WITH THAT !!!
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post #412 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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SO TIGHT, SO CLEAN, SO WELL EXECUTED !! MMM !! It's beautiful brother !..da bat.......btw, Kleiner is sayin you're getting paid by the word,,,,WASSUP WITH THAT !!!
Thanks... I think. If I'm getting paid by the word, where's that big check? I think I earned it.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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post #413 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 11:58 PM
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You earned it and then some! Man, looking amazing... If my car comes out half this good, I will be stoked

Many thanks for documenting and sharing your build. Your build thread is my reference document! Thank you!

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Thanks... I think. If I'm getting paid by the word, where's that big check? I think I earned it.
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post #414 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 11:49 AM
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EdwardB - This may seem out of left field, I wanted to give you a shout out for the dyed leather check straps on the doors. Based on your prior build thread I bought the same products and dyed mine black too. It makes a big difference in appearance. I just completed them this weekend.

I know this is a small item, but wanted to give you the credit as you inspired me on it. The rest of your build is phenomenal too!
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post #415 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:20 PM
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Thanks... I think. If I'm getting paid by the word, where's that big check? I think I earned it.
Thought maybe Capt.-O was pulling my chain. I will tell you this for sure and for certain,,,,The detailed progress of such nice builds will not only take some of the guess work out but will add to a higher build curve of our little community. Bless you for your patience , documentation and attention to detail....till you're better paid cheers my friend. da Bat
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post #416 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:43 PM
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I think your per word kickback from the forum must have gotten lost in the mail along with my residual from oringsusa.
All kidding aside I'll go along with the Bat in saying thanks for all of the efforts Looking like I may be doing a Coyote/2015 IRS Coupe so here's fair warning that you can expect lots of phone calls from the 812 area code 'cause you have become the "go-to" guy for all this new tech hardware.

Cheers,
Jeff
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Mk3 #5946 build pics w/text

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post #417 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 10:04 PM
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Thought maybe Capt.-O was pulling my chain. I will tell you this for sure and for certain,,,,The detailed progress of such nice builds will not only take some of the guess work out but will add to a higher build curve of our little community. Bless you for your patience , documentation and attention to detail....till you're better paid cheers my friend. da Bat
Well said. I honestly am not sure how a rookie like me could have pulled my own build off without Paul's thread. Paul is a huge asset to this build community!
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post #418 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
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Thought maybe Capt.-O was pulling my chain. I will tell you this for sure and for certain,,,,The detailed progress of such nice builds will not only take some of the guess work out but will add to a higher build curve of our little community. Bless you for your patience , documentation and attention to detail....till you're better paid cheers my friend. da Bat
I know my build is at least a billion times better than what it would have been without your build threads as reference...not to mention all the great info in the specific-topic threads.

Thanks!


John
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Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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post #419 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 02:15 AM Thread Starter
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Finish Line is Very Near

Today I finally finished the trunk carpet. A little bit tedious, at least for me. Plus lots of reaching all the way inside. Way easier to do with the body off! I used black Bentley Auto Carpet from Miami Corp. I bought a chunk of it for #7750 thinking of doing the cockpit and trunk, but ended up only doing the trunk and using the stock carpet for the cockpit. Same as this build. So had plenty left to do the trunk again. It’s nice carpet. I made patterns from kraft paper for each piece, then cut and installed the carpet pieces. I used the previously mentioned outdoor carpet adhesive and gel contact cement. Fitting in and around the trunk box plus the frame pieces was interesting, but finally done.


Finished putting in the Simpson harness including the Replicaparts trim plates on the back wall. Today while glue was drying, began installing the two roll bars. Won’t take long to finish those.


The only assembly item left on my list is the trunk light. I’m going to use a strip of LED’s and a magnetic proximity switch somewhere on the lid or hinge. Probably won’t take the time to mess with that until after the show. By rule, the battery will be disconnected the whole time the car is on the show floor in Cobo. So nothing lost there. Down to final spit and polish now.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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post #420 of 498 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Trunk Lighting

Yesterday I finished the roll bars. That was the last of my “pre-show” punch list items. I was really glad to get that done. Drilling the holes for the trim rings I purposely didn’t do before just to make sure the final fit was exact. So needed to drill 20 holes for the six trim rings (dual roll bars) into my new paint. Needless to say, I was very careful. Also some interesting reaches getting them all installed and tightened, But all done now. I’ve not done dual roll bars before, so will need to get used to the look.

With a little remaining time, decided to go ahead and install my trunk lights. I’ve done trunk lights on each of my other builds with single fixtures, but always a little underwhelmed with the final result. With the popularity and availability, did an LED strip light on this build and much better. I planned ahead for the power and added a wire inside the RF rear harness from the courtesy light circuit before installing it into the chassis. This is an always on battery circuit, so perfect for this application. Same circuit can be used for interior or footwell lights, which I also did. I ran the added wire along with the wires to the license plate light. So the power was available in the corner of the trunk where the wires make the transition into the trunk lid.

I picked up a Weatherproof LED Flexible Light Strip, part number WFLS-NWx-SWBK, from superbrightleds.com. It’s 1 meter long (slightly more than needed), silicon encased, and with 3M mounting tape on the back. Nice product and perfect for this application. On #7750 I used a pin switch mounted against the trunk hinges and that works fine. But it was a bit of messing around making a bracket, getting it lined up properly, etc. I thought about using a mercury tilt switch this time, but instead saw this magnetic proximity switch while in O’Reilly Auto Parts a while back, so decided to give it a try.


Played around with several locations for the switch and after some testing found it wasn’t super critical on alignment or even proximity. If the magnet was within a quarter inch or so, it switched off. I ended up with the wired portion of the switch stuck to the bottom of the bulb seal around the trunk opening, and the magnet stuck to the underside of the trunk lid. Based on the locations, neither are particularly visible and using a VOM determined it switched on and off perfectly. I used the provided 3M emblem tape to attach each piece. That stuff is pretty robust, so hoping they stay put. I used the photo timer function on my iPhone to verify the proper locations. That’s a pretty neat trick to place stuff that’s hidden if you haven’t tried it. In this case, start the 10 second timer, lay the phone (or regular camera, iPad, whatever) in the right location, close the lid, wait for the picture to be taken, then review the results. Took a number of tries to find the right spot for both pieces. This is one of those pictures, showing the final result from inside the trunk with the lid closed.


This is about all you can see of the switch with the lid open. Just to the right of the trunk hinge. The magnet stuck on the trunk lid is just visible, but not where it’s easily seen.


I stuck the LED strip light along the bottom back edge of the hoop above the trunk opening. Just enough room inside the trunk hinges. Goes end-to-end. I cut off about 6-8 inches. At the cut line of course. Then wired everything up and tucked the wires behind the Weatherpack I have for the license plate wires. Works great. The switch harness has a little slide switch so you can switch the circuit off (e.g. if you have the trunk lid open for a long time and don’t want the lights on the whole time) but I didn’t do anything special with that. I can reach it if I have to, but likely not important.

Looking from the ground up at the light strip:


A more normal angle showing how it lights the trunk. I like it. Still on jack stands. When it's on the ground, don't expect to directly see the lights on the ends like in this pic.


Now to get the last of the paint shop dust off the build and wheels back on.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
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Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017.
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Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017.
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