Parts alignment order after body drop - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 03:45 AM Thread Starter
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Parts alignment order after body drop

Guys, what is the best way to install body parts on the car after body installation?
Last weekend we installed body and now it's time to align everything

So far I have windshield and roll bar installed. What's next?
I'm thinking:
1. Doors
2. Trunk
3. Hood
4. splash guards
5. Side pipes.

Does it sound correct or I should do it in the different order?

Also, what is the best way to align doors?

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 04:19 AM
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I would move the doors further down the list just in case you have to move something around to get the other stuff aligned.


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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 04:50 AM
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Did you already install the front and rear bumpers? Is the body aligned left-to-right over the front tires?

If it's an MK4 you can adjust the sides in&out a little, I don't think you can do that with earlier versions, due to side mounts.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPTech View Post
Did you already install the front and rear bumpers? Is the body aligned left-to-right over the front tires?

If it's an MK4 you can adjust the sides in&out a little, I don't think you can do that with earlier versions, due to side mounts.
Yes, front and rear mounts are installed. Body is aligned over front tires and it looks where it should be.
This is MK4 that I'm working on.
As I understand doors are the hardest parts to align, that's why I moved it to the top of the list. If it's not correct approach, what should I do before I start having "fun" with doors?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 06:14 AM
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With my MK II, after the body I aligned the sidepipes. After that the order is not important. I actually installed the splash guards a year later, after bodywork/paint, just because they were intimidating...needed bending, etc. Don't know if the guards on MK IV are the same.

The doors just take time and patience. If you are going to have bodywork/paint by a pro, just get them close and have them do the fine-tuning.

Good luck.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 11:33 AM
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1. Main body. Secure front & rear QJ mounts. Leave rockers loose for now.

2. Windshield. Easier to access the passenger side mount through the wheelwell without the splash panel in place.

3. Splash panels. The fronts definitely affect body shape, the rears not so much.

4. Doors. They are very much a back & forth process. You are trying to strike a balance at 4 different places; the upper front of the door where it meets the cowl, the upper rear where it meets the rear cockpit opening, plus the lower front and lower rear. To further complicate things along the upper part of the doors we're dealing with both horizontal as well as vertical interfaces. Adjusting for one invariably affects at least one other. And people wonder why body men drink... I've had the best luck adjusting for the door tops first. While dealing with the top area of the doors do not completely ignore the lower door edge's intersection with the main body but keep in mind that the lower body can be moved in/out independently with little to no effect to the upper cockpit openings. This is why I said to leave the rockers loose; you don't want to secure them until you have the best fit at the bottom of the door. A further tip is to make slots in the underside of the rocker where it rolls under and tap the 2X2 square tube for 1/4-20 fasteners (2 or 3 per side). This will allow you to move the lower body in & out as necessary then snug it down when you have it positioned. It just takes time...and beer!

5. Trunklid. Install the seal first. The bottom edge of the lid most likely will not meet the lower valance perfectly. Adjust the length of the quickjack spacers and the trunk latch pin to move the valance in or out so that they meet. My experience is that this usually requires moving the valance inward by shortening the spacers.

6. Hood. Use the latches and bumpers to help adjust it's contour as necessary.

Rollbars and pipes should not touch the body and consequently do not affect it's shape. Don't be surprised if you have to adjust the body openings to clear them however since FFR generally cuts them small (which is better than big!).

Good luck,
Jeff

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 11:33 AM
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Since it is a MkIV with the flange along sides, you can move the sides in/out to help line up with the doors. I took the suggestion from another member and cut a series of 1/4" x 1" slots in the flange. Instead of riveting the flange in place, I drilled and tapped 1/4-28 holes and used stainless button head machine screws to hold the flange in place. This allowed me to move the flange to help with body alignment. Once I get it in position, I tightened the screws. Much easier than trying to clamp the flange in place and then drill and rivet.

As you have read in other posts, the doors will take more work than the other panels. You will need to install your door latches to hold the door in position while you do the body work. Jeff Kleiner has an excellent post on the body work. Also, do some forum searches..........you will find tons of information.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 01:29 PM
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I agree with SCFRR, ditch the rivets and bolt the bottom flange to the frame with 1/4 x 28 (or your choice) button heads. I suggest installing the windshield last incase you need to move the body slightly.
This said...the order that worked for me is...
1. Rear quick jack bolts
2. Front quick jack bolts
Before tightening, make sure the body is centered the way it was when you did the final fit (prior to removing the body)
3. Doors. Before you bolt the bottom flange, you can still move the lower part of the body to fit the door contour
4. Deck lid
5. Hood
6. Windshield
It's getting exciting now isn't it. Bet you could barely sleep.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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The windshield posts were way off before installation, that's why I started from windscreen installation. Especially that I need to keep body away from the posts... That being said, I like the order that Jeff recommending
Today I will try to install splash panels. From assembly manual: "...if needed, trim them to fit around the outside edge..." As I understand splash panels shouldn't affect body position, there shouldn't be any pressure from panel to the body, correct? From your experiment, did you have to trim these panels?

Great idea about making slots in the underside of the rocker, sounds much better than rivets, thank you.

Jeff, now I understand why body men drink Hopefully I will have some after successful alignment
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vlydeka View Post
As I understand splash panels shouldn't affect body position, there shouldn't be any pressure from panel to the body, correct?
They do not affect position per se however they do tend to move the lower part of the body aft of the front wheelwell outward which in turn plays into the door to body interface.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
They do not affect position per se however they do tend to move the lower part of the body aft of the front wheelwell outward which in turn plays into the door to body interface.

Jeff
So, I shouldn't rivet splash panel to the body, before doors are aligned?
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 06:07 PM
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The front splash panels must exert some pressure on the body.
The side-pipe body openings almost always need some adjusting..IE; enlarging opening. (A drum sander works good for this).
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Guys, please take a look at these pictures and let me know if it looks normal to you. There is a gap between splash panel and the body. About 1/2" on the side and almost 1" on the top. Weatherstrip touching body on the bottom.
Driver and passenger side looks similar. Front and rear mounts are installed and seems like body is in good position.

100_1981.jpg

100_1991.jpg
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 10:50 PM
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Mine were not a good fit (MKIII so may be different). I trimmed them up as close as I could and found some bulb seal with a bigger "bulb" and installed it to take up the remaining gap.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-23-2013, 11:01 PM
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Need to fit them

On m'y mk4 i needed to re-fit them i needed to enlarge the back ones and re-shap the front one. With the bulb seal it all works out.

Cheers


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