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post #91 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 07:23 PM
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Me Too...

I am wanting to, "Tone" down mine when I finally get an engine. My pipes have not been coated so I was thinking about going with Sweet Thunder inserts and possibly adding Dynatech Vortex cones if possible...


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post #92 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 08:44 PM
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Your original question

I have the car chemistry 3 disk inserts in a pair of J pipes and like what they do. Car is still loud on acceleration, but cruise around town is more mellow. Above 70 on the interstate the wind noise overcomes the exhaust noise


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post #93 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 09:06 PM
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SJDave, how are the zoomie inserts installed? Do you have to drill the pipes and bolt them in? Also, did you install yours with the fiberglass packing or without?

Thanks for the info.

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post #94 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-14-2010, 10:49 PM
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SJDave, how are the zoomie inserts installed? Do you have to drill the pipes and bolt them in? Also, did you install yours with the fiberglass packing or without?

Thanks for the info.

Buddy
Yes, there is one hole for a 10-32 that goes through the pipes into a nut welded inside the insert. Mine are just sitting there between the headers and side pipes, I didn't want to drill the hole until I knew they worked.



Installed with the fiberglass packing. Fiberglass is rated at 1200 F and should last 10 to 15k miles unless you get a bunch of raw fuel passed thru and it gets wet, it "may" burn then according to Ken at CC. Replacement material is $10 to do all 8 inserts.

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post #95 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldtop View Post
Just to clarify a question about how to cut and roll the gutter screen...the screen comes in pre-curved 6" wide by 36" long pieces. Flatten it out and roll it along its length. You need 8" of circumference to make a 2.5" diameter "one-piece" tube. If you look closely at this picture you can see which direction the weave goes. Hope this helps.

Oldtop, did you use anything to secure the metal flange in there, such as copper RTV? I would think it may loosen up as the heat expands the circumference of the pipe and cause a rattle?

BTW that's very, clever.
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post #96 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 04:50 PM
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No RTV copper, the endcap fits pretty snug. I secured it with two 1/8" rivets at the 3:00 and 8:00 position, viewed from the rear. Also just repacked mine using new pipe insulation and a piece of gutter screen 17" x 6". This doubles the screen and should help keep the insulation in.

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post #97 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 07:25 PM
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I rode Harleys most of my life and a lot of the "old timers" that I talked to...well tried to talk to were deaf. It was a real pain having to holler when talking.
I wear ear plugs...the wind is a DEAFNER so to speak.

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post #98 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-15-2010, 11:12 PM
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I have those and am very satisified with the results. I welded mine in before ceramic coating. Been in since 2001 and no change in sound.
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post #99 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 12:16 AM
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Turbos really quiet the exhaust

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post #100 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 03:43 AM
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Sweet Thunder Props

I sent my pipes to Mike at Sweet Thunder back in 05 and I'm very happy with sound (302). I used a 23" long inner baffle 2 1/4" dia; although I'd go with the longest baffle you could install to get a bit more mellow but this is a very simple and efficient way to go and Mike was a pleasure to work with.

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post #101 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 01:22 PM
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I just finished making new J pipes inspired by the S-pipes, DV/DTs super porting/aero spike and the cross pipe set up tested in the exhaust shoot out. I took the pipes up to 3" diameter, put in an auger style muffler insert and added a 2.5" cross pipe.
The car has a nice rumble now without being obnoxiously loud. It feels like it might have lost a little top end power, but low and mid range is all there.




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post #102 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 01:40 PM
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My friend is manufacturing a system for his coupe using sweet thunder pipes. I have seen the pipes and they are very good quality. He hopes to have some decibel reading when he finishes.




Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeE View Post
Sweet Thunder

I came across these I don't know if anyone has them but I am thinking of replacing the glass pack section of the side pipe with a section in each pipe.

http://www.sweet-thunder.com/chamber...html#stainless

I am estimating $200 mufflers, $150 to have pipes cut and these inserted, black grille paint.


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post #103 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 03:43 PM
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Super Trapps

If you want the noise on the street and still want to run auto-cross, use super trapps.
There are three of us down in San Diego running Trapps and they work.
We slip them into the end of the sidepipes and are still running less than 91 db on the track.
After you are done racing pull them out and put them in the box and drive home.

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post #104 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-16-2010, 04:38 PM
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I had Sweet thunder make me a set of inserts (28" long ) to fit the same size pipe as the collector and turnout. This makes the all the pipe the same diameter. Highly recommend Sweet Thunder. Deep, rich sound.
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post #105 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 12:53 AM
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What size or part number Super Trapp are you using?

I went to their web site and they have a bewildering area of combinations......
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post #106 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 02:10 AM
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SJDave, I am 62. If you really want to start acting your age, go with straight pipes and irritate everyone!
Younger next year,
Arch

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post #107 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 03:56 PM
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SJDave, I am 62. If you really want to start acting your age, go with straight pipes and irritate everyone!
Younger next year,
Arch
LOL Stop making me laugh Arch! I made some illegal go-carts runs around the block yesterday while carb tuning with ASTGlenn on the phone....maybe hit 60 in a 25 speedlimit...several neighbors called and asked if that was me making the noise....IT DID MAKE ME FEEL 16 YEARS OLD AGAIN driving this wonderful car. Ignorant of the law or any consequences!

Oh yeah, I had my drivers license for exactly 1 day when I was 16...then got it back from the authorities when I was 18. We had a '65 beetle then, I drilled out the clips for the hub caps, flipped the wheels around to make it a "WIDE TRACK", removed the exhaust tips, put a chrome velocity stack on the carb (no filter)....cranked up the AM radio to "RED Rubber Ball" by Gary and Pacemakers and proceeded to turn my subdivision into a race track...I HAD NEVER FELT THIS LEVEL OF ELATION IN MY ENTIRE LIFE...and only with 35 HP.... Must have been my 3rd lap around the 2 mile course I had been following when the siren and red lights appeared....he had been following me for 1 complete lap and I had not even noticed him. He just shook his head as he followed me home and left with my license in hand.

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Maybe!

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post #108 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-17-2010, 04:09 PM
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Just for the opposite end, I was racing a few weeks ago, and pinged thier dB meter at over 96 decibels down the front stretch! Needless to say, I was black flagged and told to either quiet it down or cease. They had a 84 dB limit....

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post #109 of 154 (permalink) Old 05-26-2010, 10:24 PM
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I just did Oldtops mod today after a few weeks gathering parts cause I couldn't find the pipe insulation-of course it was right there in Lowes all along.Fired the car up in the garage to go for a test drive and the difference is immediately obvious.Did a few 5-60 runs and I can't feel any power loss. I am REALLY happy w/ this mod especially considering the $45 price tag.Thanks for the research Oldtop!

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post #110 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 03:48 PM
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One more kudos for Oldtop. I also had trouble finding fiberglass insulation. Went to four different hardware store, including Lowes and Home Depot, but no one had it. I bought course steel wool and wired it around the 2" inner tubing. The bark is gone and the overall dB is slightly lower. Also did a test run, and I can still burn out in 2nd. Good enough for me.

I can't compare with the sound of the fiberglass, but I guess I don't have to worry about my packing burning out. With less than $40 and under 2 hours of labor, I'm very happy with the results. Cheers, I'll buy you a cold one if we get a chance to meet.
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post #111 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-09-2010, 01:31 PM
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I noticed your post on the sidepipe noise reduction using Oldtop's idea, just not clear where or how much steel wool you added to the sidepipe, or was it in place of the pipe insulation...I have a totally blown out driver side muffler and figured this would be a good fix....Thanks
(I am in Huntington Beach, FFR MK3, 302, )
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post #112 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-09-2010, 02:31 PM
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Side pipes

I reckon my sidepipes were over 120 db, I thought they sounded absolutely great! Never even dreamt of using earplugs. Loved every minute of them!

Then I got the offer of a track day and I had three problems: 1) Noise - needed to be under 105 db. 2) Where we had converted the car to rhd, we had one new header made and clearly was out a bit as the sidepipe grounded in fast bends. 3) all the ceramic coating had burnt off, the pipes were going rusty and looked a bit grim.

I was very nervous of just inserting packing material for fear of damaging the engine.

We don't have the luxury of anyone over here with FFR experience, so I went to my local custom exhaust shop.

He reckoned that the reason they are so noisy is the there is little difference between the diameter of the input/output pipes and the silencer, so little room for packing material. The design is such that the silencer is also quite short, so again, not enough room for packing material

He also noticed that the header pipe diameter (Hook headers) is smaller than the pipe diameter of the four into one sidepipe pipes before the silencer - why? Makes them bulkier than neccessary so the sidepipes sit a way off the body.

The silencer had split at the mounting point, suggesting that there was insufficient support.

He made me a system that put the four into one collector under the wing, so the sidepipe now sits much closer to the car body. The silencer has a larger diameter and is much longer. Finally, he made a new mounting that sits on the tailpipe.

Ground clearance at the tailpipe is 3/5", so no issues. It is 111 decibels, so still not quiet enough for the track (they just asked me to throttle back and short shift!). I like the stainless steel, the system looks elegant if not unoriginal - and the sound? Nothing like as good!

Slightly disapointed if am honest. Is it slower? Possibly - don't really know.

How do I find a guy who really knows what he is doing?

Ian

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post #113 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-09-2010, 06:32 PM
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Another idea maybe already mentioned

When we were racing full time the different tracks had different noise restrictions and placement of the Db meters. Even the altitude and weather will change the noise pattern.

We used spiral core inserts with a combination of caps and lengths and that way you could tune each side and the total Db output. They didn't cost much HP until you got to the longest length and had to cap the inner tube. That would get you down to about 90 Db with a nice smooth sound witout a lot of big peaks on a 305 Chevy at about 400 HP. That also cost maybe 15 HP to achieve that lower noise level. They work best when you put them as far back in the exhaust system as possible.

These are not super cheap but they work well and they have a great tech guy who can tell you just about what works given the HP and cubic inch of the engine, header design etc.

http://www.spiralturbobaffles.com/index.html

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post #114 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-09-2010, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobraboyHB View Post
I noticed your post on the sidepipe noise reduction using Oldtop's idea, just not clear where or how much steel wool you added to the sidepipe, or was it in place of the pipe insulation...I have a totally blown out driver side muffler and figured this would be a good fix....Thanks
(I am in Huntington Beach, FFR MK3, 302, )
I pretty much used Oldtop's technique, but instead of fiberglass, wrapped coarse steel wool around the inner tube made by the steel cage. Used four wool packs per side. Then, I wrapped the wool on with bare steel wire to hold in. However, after about a month, I noticed the wool was blowing out. The sound quality did not diminish as far as I could hear, but ended up changing to the fiberglass tubes anyway.

So in essence, I tried to improve on Oldtop, but ended up using his technique to the letter! Its been months now, and the insert sounds just as good as before. Again, kudos to Oldtop.
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post #115 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-09-2010, 08:48 PM
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sidepipe baffle

OK, thanks for info, I am going with the steel wool for a quick check...as Lowes doesnt carry the fibreglass tubes at least in my area...although did find some at Graingers but would be shipped...will update with a new post on how these worked for me next week!
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post #116 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 02:58 PM
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For some reason, no one carries the formed fiberglass tubes in so cal. I searched far and wide, but finally came to a factory in Commerce. The people there were very nice and even gave me a sample for free. Even to buy its somewhere between $5-8 per 3 foot section. I can give you the name of the company if interested.
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post #117 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 04:30 PM
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sidepipe baffle

Yes, that would be great, maybe it will work better than the wool...I already made one side up using steel wool and it did make a diff, but really not as much as I expected. I think my driver sidepipe is blown out beyond hope and probably will end will end up opening the wallet for a full set but not the FFR pipes. Research first before handing over the bucks....thanks
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post #118 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 05:43 PM
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You can use duct board fiberglass pealed and rolled or pipe insulation rolled to the diameter you need. Form the gutter guard an wrap the insulation around it then add the end cap, slide it in and secure.

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post #119 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-10-2010, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobraboyHB View Post
Yes, that would be great, maybe it will work better than the wool...I already made one side up using steel wool and it did make a diff, but really not as much as I expected. I think my driver sidepipe is blown out beyond hope and probably will end will end up opening the wallet for a full set but not the FFR pipes. Research first before handing over the bucks....thanks
I'm not sure if I should mention the company name on the open forum, so I'll send you a pm.

Peter
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post #120 of 154 (permalink) Old 10-16-2010, 01:51 PM
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Quietpipes Testimonial

Here is a reply from a Breeze customer who just installed his new Quietpipes:

"I installed the pipes yesterday and could not be more pleased!! They
> changed the car, transformed it into a street driver that's fun to
> drive around town. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
>
> Walt


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