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post #31 of 154 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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larryb,
an under car exhaust....easy solution???



Oldtop,

THANK YOU!!!!!
I asked for solutions....and I got one!!!!
Now for the dumb questions if you don't mind.....
Where can I get the Fiberglas insulation? (I think I have seen it at Home Depot)
The gutter guard I know HD has it.
How about the end cap? Where and what is it for and what size?

Again, THANK YOU!!!

p.s. Where did you get your exhaust heat shields?



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post #32 of 154 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 12:29 AM
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Oldtop

Great idea-how effective is it in your opinion? The insulation is standard steam heat stuff and the gutter guard is easy to find as well. But I don't recognize the "end cap". Also any info about the "end cap" would be helpful-is it something at home depot?? Thanks in advance.

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post #33 of 154 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 12:42 AM
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post #34 of 154 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 01:21 AM
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I came across these I don't know if anyone has them but I am thinking of replacing the glass pack section of the side pipe with a section in each pipe.

http://www.sweet-thunder.com/chamber...html#stainless

I am estimating $200 mufflers, $150 to have pipes cut and these inserted, black grille paint.

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post #35 of 154 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 01:23 AM
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The gutter screen and pipe insulation are from Home Depot, the end cap is made from a sink strainer model # K5416 found at Lowe's. The outside diameter fits in the exhaust pipe nicely, but be sure to measure before cutting. The center hole is about 2 1/8" .






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post #36 of 154 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 02:13 AM
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I have experience with the Summit baffles on catalytic converters. I ordered my 3.1 kit with the catalytic converters because I thought they would do a good job reducing the noise. It was not about emissions but did hope they would cut down the exhaust smell.

From my experience I don't think you'll be able to get the Summit disk inserts to work property with your catalytic converters. Maybe someone has had a better experience than me.

First you need the 2.5 inch baffles. I ordered the "Three Disk Exhaust Inserts" as I wanted to quiet the noise as much as possible. My first problem was with the location of the baffles. You are supposed to mount them six inches before the collector pipe which is impossible with the cats. The only place to install them is right where the cats connect to the side pipe. I had to cut one of the baffles down to two rings. I think it was on the passenger side.

I drilled a hole through the end of the cats that I had just had ceramic coated and used a stainless steel rivet to attach the baffles. The rivets worked pretty good.

I never got to try the setup with the side pipes. My engine was so far out of tune (junky carburetor) that the cats got absolutely red hot. Before I could try the setup with a better tune I put the body on and discovered that since I moved the engine forward two inches to accommodate the longer length of my automatic transmission that the cats did not fit the body hole. This I should have figured out before I redid the engine mounts.

I ended up ordering a set of j-pipes that I could modify to fit my body opening, welded the cut baffle back together, welded the baffle to the j-pipe and sent the entire thing off to be ceramic coated. The baffles are still at the end of the j-pipes. Without the side pipes the noise seems less than what it was before with the side pipes.

I just got my body back from the painter so I can put the side pipes back on. I think the noise level may be acceptable. No ear plugs for me.

I have a set of ceramic coated cats with holes drilled in them for baffles if anyone has an interest.

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post #37 of 154 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 02:41 AM
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I have two disc inserts in my J pipes, I tacked them in 16000 miles ago and haven't looked back, the bark is gone. I just put on a new set of side pipes, and I am pleased with the sound. For $100 it is the cheapest way out. IF you have 4 into 4 headers your stuck though.

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post #38 of 154 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009, 03:58 AM
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Don't rule out the foam throw away type earplugs. They have one of the highest noise reduction ratings (NRR). Most have an NRR rating of 33. That means when properly inserted (yes this is a proper way to insert them, most don't do it and it affects the rating) they will reduce the noise level by 33db. About the only thing more effective are the molded ones. They cost about a $100 and any place that sells hearing aid can make them up for you. You need to be sure to keep them clean to avoid ear infections. That another advantage of the throw aways. There cheap enough to use them once then throw them away. You can buy them in bulk packs from Grainger or any industrial supply house. Us can get a carton of 100 pairs for about $25-$30. I use them on the motorcycle under my helmet (wind noise on a mc can be >95db), for shooting and will use them in the cobra. And yes you can still hear whats going on around you...it's just muffeled.
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post #39 of 154 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 04:18 PM
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OR, you could just have me build Cobrapack Mufflers for you & be done with your worries. Nah, too easy.....................
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post #40 of 154 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 04:51 PM
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OLdtop, A very cool and clever idea!
Sam, you might also give these folks a call; http://www.supertrapp.com/product_se...rsal/index.asp. They do have a series of internal pipe insert discs. I've used Supertrapps on a few different vehicles and the real joy in them is that you can easily add or subtract discs and change the sound.


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post #41 of 154 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Just a quick update for anyone considering quieting down the exhausts.
I did as oldtop suggested and this mod made for a great reduction in the "bark" and all around db levels. Then I went a step further and added some stainless steel wool for pot cleaning in the large hole. Even bigger improvement in the reduction of db and bark.
I have not put many miles on the car since, (about 200), but I can not tell of any power reduction from the seat of my pants. Although I am sure there might be some.

The engine seems to be OK with this mod and no adverse effects.
I now can hear my radio (nothing fancy) from idle all the way to cruising speeds on the freeway.

The discomfort on my left ear is gone and I am happy.

I also bought some disposable ear plugs for my left ear for those longer cruises where wind noise becomes a factor.

With my APE hardtop on and side windows installed, the noise is even further reduced. Just a bit louder than my BMW MCoupe with aftermarket exhausts, but not by much.

I did take some readings with an iphone app and the results are eye opening.
I have them at home though and I will post later on or tomorrow.


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post #42 of 154 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 07:58 PM
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Still think undercar exhaust is an easier and more reliable solution..

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post #43 of 154 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 08:07 PM
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Summit sells a cone shaped device that installs in the sidepipes (would require cutting and rewelding pipes back together) that claims to reduce SPL to 96 decibel (or some value close to that to meet sound requirements in place at some racetracks.) You will have to cut the sidepipes clear through to install though and it will be tricky to get them welded back together square to each other...
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post #44 of 154 (permalink) Old 02-02-2010, 05:30 AM
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i tried the car chemistry inserts and found they increased the pitch of the sound and did not affect the overall level enough.

even with no motor noise, the wind noise will damage your hearing eventually

when i did the spec series sound testing at laguna seca back in 2000, we screwed a super trapp on the end of the muffler. really ugly but no cutting.

catalytic convertors will reduce the level without affecting the visible end of the exhaust.

but i dont think you will be able to achieve the level of reduction you want without a significant change to the pipe you have: under car exhaust, or a custom in-tube muffler.

one last thing i looked into trying was a h-pipe. this will tend to make the offset exhaust pulses cancel each other out. to make it really effective you will need to bring the pipes closer together- the h-pipe needs to be pretty short to work well. but this also have the advantage of increasing power (improves scavenging)

after researching all of the above in order to make sound for my racing events, i finally chose turn-downs which made a huge difference- 8db! (but i cut my pipes and have a welder) its way better on the freeway too, and still a nice tone.

i always wear earplugs driving the car.

good luck

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post #45 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 09:00 PM
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I tried Oldtop's solution and man, what a great idea! That saved me several hundred $ in buying new pipes. The racecar pop is gone and it's much quieter. I don't know that the "bark" is gone but it's much more pleasant to drive, keep in mind my exhaust was pretty loud to begin with. It now has a more glasspack burble and lower tone (proly still louder than stock). I like it... except that I was driving home last night (first day of really driving with the mod) and was thinking hmmm it seems like it could be a little quieter still. When I shut it off in the garage I heard a rattle from the driver's side pipe and thought maybe one of the screws came loose... nope. Somewhere along the way I shot out the fiberglass packing and one section of the expanded alum, one of the sections was still in the pipe loose and rattling around. I have no idea how just the driver's side shot out but thank goodness the fiberglass pipe insulation comes in 3ft lengths and I have 2ft left.

Thanks Oldtop, great mod!!!

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post #46 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 02:44 AM
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I know this will probably not be a very popular answer, but REALLY! If you wanted a quiet car that you could carry on a conversation in, then why on earth would you choose a Cobra?

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post #47 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 04:29 AM
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Lobak + Vortex cones

I went with Lobak mufflers and votex cones (from Summit Racing) in 5.0 EFI. I had to this all done before ceramic coating but it is well worth it. I can carry on a conversation with the wife while crusing down the highway. I still wear earplugs on the freeway though. The wind buffet really gets to me after a while.

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post #48 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 07:00 AM
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Car Chemistry Zoomie inserts

Has anyone tried these inserts inside the Long tube Headers before the side pipes?

Seems like an easy install without cutting those expensive SS pipes.

$199 for a set of 8 inserts.

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post #49 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by quatro007 View Post
I tried Oldtop's solution and man, what a great idea! That saved me several hundred $ in buying new pipes.

Somewhere along the way I shot out the fiberglass packing and one section of the expanded alum, one of the sections was still in the pipe loose and rattling around. I have no idea how just the driver's side shot out
It is a great idea!

If one left the bottom strainer section in place rather than cutting it out, that would certainly prevent anything from blowing out, but I wonder if it would create to much back pressure?

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post #50 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 03:58 PM
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Just because I happened to be cruizin the site,,,I found this thread and wanted to reply.
I had the very same issues. After a while, the FFR pipes just get louder, that is the way they are. I tried a few ideas, none of which really worked right, maybe different sound, but still too loud,,,even for a Cobra.
Solution: I went to Hillbank, Superformance, bought their pipes, and had my flange modified just enough to fit them. I now have approx 22,000 miles on my car,,,prob. of which 15 k is with the new pipes. Love them, they seem to be the same and a great sound. Yes, the did cost, but I don't feel I will have to mod or change in the future.
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post #51 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 04:23 PM
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Oldtop, I'm going to try your method

I picked up the materials but was not sure how thick the fiberglass insulation was you used. The roll I picked up was 3/4 thick but obviously that will compress quite a bit from the screen mesh pushing against it. Is 3/4 inch thick correct??
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post #52 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 07:27 PM
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The material I use is pipe insulation for 2" pipe. It has an I.D. of 2 3/8" and O.D. of 3 1/4". Cut a piece long enough to fit snug between the end cap and the muffler insert. You want the end cap hole a little smaller so the gutter screen won't fall out, say 2 1/8" - 2 1/4". For now I use a single piece of gutter screen 8" x 6" rolled in to a tube to hold the fiberglass in place. It's not a perfect solution but it is cheap. As for leaving the strainer basket on, it cuts the sound a lot, but kills performance.

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post #53 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
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The gutter screen and pipe insulation are from Home Depot, the end cap is made from a sink strainer model # K5416 found at Lowe's. The outside diameter fits in the exhaust pipe nicely, but be sure to measure before cutting. The center hole is about 2 1/8" .





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post #54 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-10-2010, 11:58 PM
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Just to clarify a question about how to cut and roll the gutter screen...the screen comes in pre-curved 6" wide by 36" long pieces. Flatten it out and roll it along its length. You need 8" of circumference to make a 2.5" diameter "one-piece" tube. If you look closely at this picture you can see which direction the weave goes. Hope this helps.


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post #55 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 03:06 AM
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I went with Lobak mufflers and votex cones (from Summit Racing) in 5.0 EFI. I had to this all done before ceramic coating but it is well worth it. I can carry on a conversation with the wife while crusing down the highway. I still wear earplugs on the freeway though. The wind buffet really gets to me after a while.

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=lobak
That's funny . . . .. I wear earplugs while the wife is talking to me in the car, and take them out on the freeway when the rpm's are higher . .. . . . . just kidding!
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post #56 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 01:07 PM
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You can add a turbo, it will add power and cut down your sound. I had to gut my sidepipes for flow. My car with no mufflers and one turbo is quieter than most. Good luck.

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post #57 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 01:56 PM
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If you go beyond the foam orange ones, there are lots of options with various reduction (db) ratings. A good set of custom ($80-100) ear plugs make all the difference in the world.

Along with what you're doing on your pipes, I'd suggest you take a visit to the local hearing center, they'll have a myriad of options available.
I Concur! I had mine made by DB Blocker. They work awesome. They block out the harshness of the exhaust but more imortantly (I will explain later) they block out the wind BUT I can still hold a conversation with my passenger!!
Not only that but they also offer a headphone set up that plugs into your custom earplugs that you can plug into any MP3 player.

I got to know the owner of a hearing loss testing company in the region and we decided to do a test. we took his DB tester out in the roadster to see what was going on. There is no doubt that accelerating under full throttle created sounds that were dangerous and could cause "temporary" hearing loss. The real danger though was the constant buffeting of wind on the ear drums while driving at any speeds over 70 kph. In fact while driving at 100-120 kph hour the difference between driving with the engine on and the engine off were negligible!! It was 90% wind noise that was dangerous!!!

If you don't wear hearing protection and you experience hearing loss, don't blame the player..... blame the game!

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post #58 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-11-2010, 03:48 PM
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What are the regulations about wearing earplugs while driving? I have custom deep insert plugs for work, and they make a big difference. But they are also bright yellow, so are fairly noticable.
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post #59 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 01:10 AM
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Just jamb a couple of potatoes inside the sidepipes - it'll be REAAAL quiet. You can eat a baked potato while stalled out alongside the freeway.

The gutter screen one is pretty creative, but neither the screen material or fiberglass packing will last very long. I see my earlier post was pretty well ignored. I tried. I've only shipped a few hundred pair of Cobrapacks over the last 3 years..................
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post #60 of 154 (permalink) Old 04-12-2010, 01:14 AM
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