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Old 06-02-2017, 07:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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#1001 Build Thread

Just arrived today. Pretty stoked. My paperwork originally had #1000 on it and then it was crossed off and #1001 was written on it. Perhaps FFR reserved it for someone special?

Kind of an initial bummer but something was rubbing on the front of my frame and the PC got rubbed off.... . Maybe get some touch up paint and hopefully that part is hidden by the radiator.


I have two days with the car then I have to travel to AZ for two weeks for work. So she'll be sitting around for a while.



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Last edited by fostia; 06-16-2017 at 08:27 PM..
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Old 06-02-2017, 08:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fostia View Post
Kind of an initial bummer but something was rubbing on the front of my frame and the PC got rubbed off.... . Maybe get some touch up paint and hopefully that part is hidden by the radiator.
This is the paint I see recommended the most - I used it and worked very well. But is a little pricy.

Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray? Ceramic Chassis Black

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Old 06-02-2017, 09:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Congratulations. Welcome !


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Old 06-03-2017, 12:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Sweet! Congrats!
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Old 06-03-2017, 10:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Congratulations !!! I may have some parts you might be interested in.

Tim Whittaker
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Old 06-04-2017, 01:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Just arrived today. Pretty stoked. My paperwork originally had #1000 on it and then it was crossed off and #1001 was written on it. Perhaps FFR reserved it for someone special?
I do wonder now if the much anticipated #1000 isn't going to appear!?!
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Old 06-16-2017, 08:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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#1001 Build Thread

After 2 weeks on business travel to Sierra Vista, I'm back. Got to do some sweet mountain biking in Sedona. If I lived in Phoenix I'd be there every weekend. Except I would never live in Phoenix. I wasn't built for that heat....

I inventoried all boxes before I left except the parts that came attached to the body. I was unsure if I needed to build a body buck but I definitely did. I'm at max capacity in my garage. Got some powder coating quotes. I'll try to mock up the front suspension this weekend so I can take the parts in on Monday.... Need to clean the grease off with brake cleaner and remove the ball joint boots.

Notices my rear end was leaking from the ford racing axle housing cover. Went ahead an bought a lube locker gasket. Hopefully that will fix it.

I still haven't found a good place to store the roof. Right now it's in our third bedroom/tiny office. We'll see how long that lasts..... My wife doesn't care, i'm the one that can't stand clutter/things not being in their proper place...






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Old 06-17-2017, 03:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi Fostia
I just notice that you live not too far from me. If you have any questions on your build I would be happy to help answer them for you.
Tom
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Old 06-17-2017, 06:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Powder Coat

Thanks. Wondering for the people that powder coated their control arms, what's the best way to get the grease out of the ball joints? It seems like it may be an arduous process to get it all out.....


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Hi Fostia
I just notice that you live not too far from me. If you have any questions on your build I would be happy to help answer them for you.
Tom
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Old 06-18-2017, 12:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I just taped over the ball joints before painting. When they came back I run some grease threw them to get all the grit out. RW Little did a very good job for me.
Tom
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Old 06-24-2017, 11:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Banana Bracket

So the banana bracket is driving me nuts. I've read about issues with getting the bolts to align and I feel like I have the same issue. I can get 3 bolts in (i had to do a little match drilling to even do that) but I can't get the last one in and I feel it's too far off to safely match drill it. It's way off. I've torqued the bolts down, loosened them, wiggled, skinned my fingers, stripped some threads, used big hammers, tried a crow bar, ect.

I've wire wheeled all the powder coat off the inside of the cups and reamed the bolt holes of PC. My intention is to weld approx 2 one inch welds on both the banana bracket and cup because my friend only tacked it and his 450 hp cobra actually rotated the axle and bent the banana bracket. So that has made me very cautious here. I plan to do the welds only on the axle tube side, not the cast side. Perhaps a rosset weld on the cup. That being said, in regards to the banana bracket, any suggestions? I figure these are my options:

1.) Continue to curse and strip threads trying to get it aligned. If you look at the pictures, it's a long ways off.

2.) Since I'm going to weld it, perhaps use a grade 8 7/16-20x3" bolt on that one hole? All the other bolts are 1/2-20 x 3". Per the Breeze automotive instructions, once you weld it, you only need to torque to 25 ft-lbs. Since I'm not going to weld it as much as Breeze recommends (i'm worried about my welding skills and warping the axle), I may torque it down a little more.

3.) Get it aligned the best I can and match drill the hole. It's going to take off a lot of material which I'm worried about. I'd probably do it from the banana bracket side but I'd need to buy a long 1/2" drill bit to get through. That way, if I take off too much, I just buy a new cup which I imagine if cheaper.

4.) Ask FFR for new hardware. I know I'm going to run into these fit issues constantly but this one is on a pretty critical running gear connection.

5.) Grind off the one bolt ear from the cup, align the bolt, tac the ear back on, disassembly and weld fully. Probably the best option and I've read other people doing this. I'm not sure my welding skills are good enough for this. I do have a millermatic welder but I've only welded brew stands, TV brackets, metal art and other dumb stuff. I feel like this is a pretty critical weld.

Sorry for the book. I like to write a lot. Good news is all my front suspension items and other hardware is out for Powder Coat. Hopefully i get that back this coming week so I can get the front suspension done.....


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Old 06-25-2017, 12:30 AM   #12 (permalink)
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yeah, that looks a little more than mine. Mine were misaligned but I drilled through with my drill press and it didn't lose too much wall. I'd ask for another one if it's too far out

Roadracer's #997 build

FWIW, I bought the banana brace kit from VPM and I'm a huge fan. Nothing can rotate around this thing.

Roadracer's #997 build
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Old 06-25-2017, 09:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I got it as close as I could and ended up drilling it. Hope it will work!

I've debated getting that brace. Not sure yet if I will. I guess I can make that decision down the road. Thanks for the input!
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Old 06-28-2017, 05:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Finally made some progress. Seems like everyone else that has a kit number close to mine is speeding ahead. It will be another week before any more work will be done as I'm heading to the farm in Iowa for the 4th for my wife's family reunion.

Rear end is all mocked up. Was debating disassembling it all to put some stitch welds on the banana bracket but I think I'll just do with everything assembled. Also bought the 3 link brace from VPM. May be a bit overkill but I've seen first hand my friends bent banana bracket. Taking no chances here.

Hopefully front suspension parts come back from Powder Coat before I leave...

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Old 06-30-2017, 04:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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leftovers

Dumb question..... I have a bunch of leftover bolts and nuts from the rear end install. Am I missing anything? Going to torque everything down. Manual is not the most clear... I've read that people end up with a box of extra bolts and nuts after but figured I'd double check.

I've got qty two (2) 5/8" washers that I think go on the 3rd link where it attaches to the frame that do not fit/are not required to be used.

2 sets of 3/8" bolts, washers and locknuts from the trac lok bracket package. I read somewhere those are for something obsolete.

2 extra 1/2-13 x 2.75" bolts and locknuts from kit 22352 "hot rod solid rear axle shock mounting components". Supposedly shock mounting bolts? I used the 1/2-20 x 3" bolt in the trak loc package for the upper shock mounting.

The entire 33248 "hot rod 3-link rear suspension" bag.

Have a happy 4th!
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Old 06-30-2017, 12:48 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I've got a lot of the same stuff left over. The hose blows my mind. Not sure what that could have ever been for.

I just check and make sure everything is connected, bolted and safe and everything unused go into a spare parts box.
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Old 06-30-2017, 12:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fostia View Post
Seems like everyone else that has a kit number close to mine is speeding ahead.
Don't worry about what other people are doing. Lol. For example, yours is finished. Mine isn't. I have to blow it up and paint everything later on. Experience levels will matter on how fast things happen too. How many changes you make matter etc. Enjoy your build and your experience.
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Old 06-30-2017, 01:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Same stuff left over here too.. it's fine as long as you don't have any holes without bolts in

Building one of these isn't a race, unless stopping and going backwards occasionally is racing lol
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Old 06-30-2017, 03:25 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks! It's been helpful to follow along with you build pages. Keep up the good work!

Are you guys doing the Whitby Power brakes?


Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fostia View Post
Seems like everyone else that has a kit number close to mine is speeding ahead.
Don't worry about what other people are doing. Lol. For example, yours is finished. Mine isn't. I have to blow it up and paint everything later on. Experience levels will matter on how fast things happen too. How many changes you make matter etc. Enjoy your build and your experience.
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Old 06-30-2017, 05:22 PM   #20 (permalink)
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No sir on whitby although I did consider them. I went the tim and basmith route of abs brake systems electric power brakes. It's a cool system but pricey and definitely not a bolt in. It uses a hydraulic pump/accumulator that uses brake fluid to make pressure to give the assist. But it is all hidden behind the dash with some modding and cutting/welding and making a couple of brackets. Mr Smith made a bellcrank and has his turned 90*, but I just moved everything forward. You have to get their short master cylinder (which is pricier lol) to fit it the way I did. I intend to mount the pump and reservoirs behind the dash also, but have to put the body on to see if I have room where I want to, or have to squeeze it in next to the ac unit.
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Old 07-01-2017, 12:48 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I am going to have to steal your body buck over the chassis idea.
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Old 07-01-2017, 12:52 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I will second that the manual isn't the most clear. Definitely a puzzle trying to reference pictures and the text to figure out what to do. I feel better that I am not the only person worried about having leftover parts.
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Old 07-11-2017, 02:02 AM   #23 (permalink)
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shock mounting body down

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Originally Posted by roadracer View Post
Same stuff left over here too.. it's fine as long as you don't have any holes without bolts in

Building one of these isn't a race, unless stopping and going backwards occasionally is racing lol
So I've moved onto the front suspension. Roadracer, I've referred to your build thread a bunch so far. Good work. I was also hunting for answer about the front shock mounting position. It was driving me nuts that the manual was saying to mount them body down but every picture in the manual showed them body up. Well, you asked the same darn question, and lo and behold, FF5 changed the part number and they can only be mounted body down now. I mean part of the fun is figuring things out but you'd think they would at least make a note if the manual is showing incorrect pictures. Same thing with the spacer on the lower spindle. There is no .25" 5/8 diameter opening spacer in box 2. But there is now a .38" thick 5/8" countersunk washer which I'm interpreting is the lower spindle spacer judging by the size and double checking your pictures. I guess our kits had a new batch of ball joints. Hopefully new and improved....

I also had to add an extra shim like you did on the rear driver's side lower shock. I also had to add two washers on the backside of the long bolt for the driver's side lower shock because the nut was bottoming out on the body of the bolt rather than the backside of the trac lok bracket.

Last edited by fostia; 07-11-2017 at 02:08 AM..
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Old 07-11-2017, 09:09 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Roadracer, I've referred to your build thread a bunch so far. Good work.
Thanks. The manual is still more than I've ever had building any previous cars Got to keep some perspective. I don't mind buying the odd bolt or bending a flange or spending some more time to figure out how to use the brake lines as-is.. in the end we're all going to be very proud to have built these things! And all so subtly different underneath.

I'm having a blast
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Old 07-12-2017, 04:40 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Thanks. The manual is still more than I've ever had building any previous cars Got to keep some perspective. I don't mind buying the odd bolt or bending a flange or spending some more time to figure out how to use the brake lines as-is.. in the end we're all going to be very proud to have built these things! And all so subtly different underneath.

I'm having a blast
Yeah, I've never built a car build before. I tinker, weld, work on my motorcycles/dirts, done head gaskets, ect but never this involved so I'm probably relying a bit more on the manual than you. As you know it's by no means a cheap project so I want to get it right. In this case "right" is not well defined term. AND I didn't go to the build school which probably was not the smartest thing... However, I have time, the forums, a friend who built a FF5 Cobra and perseverance so I'm confident I'll plod through this!

In other news, I just purchased the Whitby Power Brake Kit in anticipation of starting the pedal box and firewall.

Have to start thinking about my engine too. Plan is a carb'd Ford 347 stroker. I was originally just going to buy the block and build the engine but Summit no longer sells the roller-cam block. I think I might buy the street fight shortblock from Coast High Performance and then build it up from there with AFR 185 heads as this is within my budget which is about $7k give or take. About another $3k for clutch, bell housing and tranny (TKO600). Not sure what CAM to use yet.... By October I'll have all the funds to buy the engine, transmission and wheels. Almost there!
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Old 07-13-2017, 06:08 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Thinking about tires. Going for the all black look. I photoshopped a bunch of wheels on the car. I've always really liked the look of Brent's 33 build with his TSW Mirabeau wheels. While I would like to be original, I just like them too much....

Niche Apex


Stance SC 5ive



TSW Circuit



TSW Jarama



TSW Mechanica

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File Type: jpg Stance SC-5ive.jpg (188.1 KB, 497 views)
File Type: jpg TSW Circuit.jpg (190.0 KB, 494 views)
File Type: jpg TSW Jarama.jpg (190.8 KB, 499 views)
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Old 07-13-2017, 06:10 AM   #27 (permalink)
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TSW Mirabeau



TSW Sprint

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Old 07-13-2017, 01:09 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Rubber band tires have no place on a hot rod. Find something with a decent amount of side wall. Too bad FFR designed the car for such small diameter tires.

One of the most popular sizes for hot rods with 20" rear wheels was a 295/45/20, with a 30.5" diameter. If you want matching tread patterns on the front and rear, about the best you can do today is a 295/40/20 with a 29.3" diameter.

1932 Ford Roadster - The Mirage - Hot Rod Network
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:25 PM   #29 (permalink)
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fostia, I'm not sure how accurate your rendering is, but if it is, I'd also prefer more sidewall. Doesn't take much more. What diameter wheels/tires are those?

After a lot of messing around, my current plan is

275/35ZR18 99W XL 25.5"
345/30ZR19 105Y 27.2"

but I want a lot of rubber.

Looking at ridetech's 33, they have wide (335-30/18), but not enough diameter for me - just 25.9 at the back. That's fine for front, but you need more at the rear.

For wheels, I like those Sprint first, then Mechanica..
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Old 07-13-2017, 03:39 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Rubber band tires have no place on a hot rod.

1932 Ford Roadster - The Mirage - Hot Rod Network
Haha, to each their own! That's why you built a proper hot rod! I'm a younger guy and prefer the look of low profile tires. I mean in the end, this kit is kind of a race car that looks like a hot rod, right? At least I don't plan to paint it hot pink and put a Hello Kitty wrap on it.

Roadracer, I was just photoshopping so they are just rough depictions. Based on some research of other builds, think i'm going with 255/35R18 ~ 25" and 305/30R19 ~26.2". But as you can tell, I prefer less sidewalls.

I need to do less posting and more working on the car! I was looking at the front A-arm this morning after more forum reading and I don't think I ground enough of the weld down to prevent my front bushing from possibly binding. Tonight's project. I should be getting some crowfeet and emery cloth in the mail as well so I can torque the castle nuts. Need the emery cloth as I could only get one of my two spindles on. It looks like I'll also need to add washers like you did to the top ball joint to get the cotter pin in the right position.
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