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Old 07-13-2017, 04:20 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I shake my head every time I read about someone grinding the tab welds for the suspension and grinding the passenger side upper firewall. It'd be so easy for FFR to fix these two issues and you can also fix it right yourself without grinding. Regardless what you do though, the suspension movement will most likely be "stiffer" than it could be. You should be able to move the "A" arms with little or no effort in the end of the process.
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Old 07-13-2017, 04:51 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Whittaker View Post
I shake my head every time I read about someone grinding the tab welds for the suspension and grinding the passenger side upper firewall. It'd be so easy for FFR to fix these two issues and you can also fix it right yourself without grinding. Regardless what you do though, the suspension movement will most likely be "stiffer" than it could be. You should be able to move the "A" arms with little or no effort in the end of the process.
Tim is right and he has the solution. I installed his bushing kit on my build and it makes a world of difference in the ease of movement for the front suspension. No binding at all.
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Old 07-13-2017, 05:14 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Tim is right and he has the solution. I installed his bushing kit on my build and it makes a world of difference in the ease of movement for the front suspension. No binding at all.
I read your post on the upgraded bushings and have checked out the products Tim Whittaker offers, all great stuff! However, I have to be diligent in controlling my costs. I've decided to give the stock bushings a go. Also read how much better the Boyd tank is, but again, I think I'll try to endure the pain due to $. I've already sprung for the Whitby Power Brakes and VPM 3rd Link so fair. If I run into bushing issues, it seems like the front suspension is fairly accessible as future retrofit. If something goes wrong with them, Tim will be the first person I call!

Tim, when you say fix it right without grinding, I assume you mean your Delrin Bushing Kit has smaller end diameter bushings and don't interfere with the weld bead? It's a pretty big bead....
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Old 07-13-2017, 05:54 PM   #34 (permalink)
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That's correct. The rubber ones are 1/8" too big on the collar. Before I designed the delrin ones, I shaved the 1/8" off the rubber and it was better. The problems run deeper than that to make it work right but every car is slightly different.

I'm probably discontinuing the delrin as most builders are fine with the FFR stuff and the binding for some reason. If you like to read, check out the Spec Racer and mods the roadster guys do to the front. I will eventually make addition mods to the front but it is fine with the delrin for now. The difference on the track is noticed but the average street guy won't even know what to look for. To me it's simply a matter of making it work the way it should.
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Old 07-30-2017, 06:28 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Doing the steering linkages. Does this much gap between the bearing and joint look right? Any closer and the lock nut would interfere with the lip...



I have the power steering option and want to make sure I don't cut off too much..




In other news, I see why people do not powdercoat the frame until everything is fit up. Going to need to do a lot of POR15 touch up. Thankfully my intent is not a showcar. I want it to look nice, but not sweating it anymore.
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Old 08-21-2017, 03:15 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Answering my own previous post, yes, the steering linkage gap was bad. If I wasn't a bonehead and actually red the manual, I would have known I was supposed to use a smaller set screw there. $46 dollars later and a new linkage from Flaming River and I'll get it right this time. Measure twice, cut once!

Just installed the Whitby Power Brakes. I'm pretty sure I have it all in the right place but it looks like I have some interference with the clutch cable and firewall adjuster I bought. I'm spending too much money so I'm trying to avoid going the hydraulic clutch route right now. I don't think my cable movement will be impacted but it just doesn't look that great, especially since I plan to have an open engine bay. What to do, what to do....









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Old 08-24-2017, 12:59 PM   #37 (permalink)
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yeah sucks a little. Rather than offseting the clutch adjuster and being misaligned, can you move it up a 1/2inch, keep it aligned but get away from the servo?
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:39 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Thought about that roadracer but im a bit worried about functionaility. I think I've talked myself into going the hydraulic route. After some investigating I found out that FF5 moved the clutch cable quadrant from offset of the pedal on the side of the pedal box to directly over the pedal. If you look at older hot rods, the clutch cable firewall location is much closer to the edge of the firewall. Long story short, I guess Jeff at whitby hasn't sold one of these kits to someone making a hotrod with a clutch cable in over a year as this was news to him. So anyone thinking of hot rod power brakes from whitby, at this time you either need to find an old ff5 quadrant configuration which had reliability problems or go with a hydraulic clutch. Or be more creative than me.... On another note, ran my nicopp brake lines over the weekend.... definitely not feeling overly confident in my flares. Going to powdercoat the firewall, reinstall everything and then bleed the lines and see how many leaks in have. I also completely rebuilt my rear calipers from a junkyard mustang so if i get through bleeding my lines, that will be a big milestone.
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Old 10-30-2017, 03:43 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Progress has been slow.... I had quite a brake line fiasco but they leak no more. I was having particular problems with my proportioning valve interfaces until I found little 45 deg copper flare gaskets. Worked awesome. I still can't tell if I have a TINY bit of fluid weeping from my brake bleeders. Maybe i'm imagining it.

Ran the wiring harness and temporarily put on the radiator and grill.

Ordered a shortblock from Coast High Performance and most of my other engine components. Going to build up a 347. Part of this project for me was to build the engine as well (from the shortblock). Got my transmission components from Forte. Would like to put a Gilmer drive on so holding off the timing cover, pump and pulleys until I can try to figure out the logistics better.

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Old 11-19-2017, 06:04 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Fuel System?

Trying to figure out my fuel system right now... Was debating going going mechanical but leaning towards an inline pump for several reasons. 1.) I live in San Diego and want to drive it in hot weather so vapor lock could be an issue more than a couple days of the year. Especially with my job being in Poway. 2.) Someday I may want to go EFI.

Engine will prob make between 400-450 HP. Thinking Holley Blue pump with 3/8" line from pick up, Aeromotive regulator, 3/8 line back from regulator. 100 micron in-line filter before the pump, 10 micron filter after the pump (where should the 10 micron go? before or after the regulator?).

The weak link in my plan is the fuel sending unit has a 1/4" return line size. I drilled out the factory five supplied unit per the manual, this means I have the equivalent of a 3/8 pick up but the return is still just a 1/4". For the carb this should be more than adequate (prob don't even need a return) but if someday I go EFI, will the 1/4" return be big enough? Should I drill into the tank and put an AN6 bulkhead fitting? A don't really want to pay another $130 for a larger fuel sending unit and I'm a little hesitant to drill into the tank... And yes, yes, I know everyone says Boyd is better but I want to make the stock tank work to save $.



Other news:

Rivnuts got me. The hand rivet tool snapped on my ring finger. Didn't feel so hot.



Hydraulic clutch master installed. Purchased from Forte. Pretty close to the dash but it looks like it will work. Maybe put some foam tape on the elbow to keep from rubbing.



Got the transmission, just waiting on the shortblock and other parts from Coast High Performance!



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File Type: jpg car.jpg (204.8 KB, 438 views)
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Old 05-21-2018, 02:46 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Seems like I've been working on the engine forever. Received the short block from Coast High Performance in December and have been working it ever since.

Some pictures of the engine build

Taking the shortblock out of the truck after driving up the Gardena to pick it up from CHP



Shortblock on a real crappy engine stand. Made me worry the entire time.



Tool for torquing damper bolt and flywheel bolts



Tool for checking true TDC. Made sure marks on harmonic balancer were right



Pushrod length check. Marks are pretty centered and sweep ended up being less than .080" thick. Pushrod length ended up being about .150" over stock length. Did PTV clearance check as well. Intake had ample space. Exhaust makes me a little nervous at .110" clearance in case of valve float. CHP said I should be good. I guess we'll see.

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Old 05-21-2018, 02:58 AM   #42 (permalink)
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More Engine pictures

It's ironic one of the most beautiful parts of the engine one doesn't get to see....



I broke down and bought a small stand so I could install the transmission. I believe it was $40 from Jegs. I was going to weld up my own but lost my motivation. My WRX has bad compression on cylinder 4 so I needed to hurry up and get this engine in the FF5 so I can pull out the WRX Boxster engine. Somehow I don't think that will be as fun....



Over this past weekend I had high hopes of putting the engine all together and into the car. Unfortunately my bellhousing had other thoughts. I took the concentricity measurement and ended up with about .027" on the dial or about .014" of runout. Spec is .005" So I ended up taking off the powdercoating. There was actually raised material around the starter bulge area that I sanded down. After doing all this, I ended up with about .012" on the gauge or .006" of runout. As I'm anal, I ordered offset dowel pins. The perpendicular runout was about .004" to .005". That's within spec so I'm not going to worry about that.



I had my wife help me put the engine in. Quote of the night "Don't you have friends to help you with this?" Yes I do, but not tonight...



Sooooooo, my water pump alignment is a complete failure. I had to get a thin damper so the Gilmer drive on the bottom could fit. I guess I need a shorty water pump. I'm worried that the shorty water pump will have a long enough neck for the gilmer water pump pulley. It recesses about 2". I figure I'll need maybe a .5" spacer anyways... I know Eric Hanson did a Gilmer Drive and made it work. He didn't remember the combination of parts. If anyone has done this set up and know what spacers and if the shorty ford pump will work, let me know!

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Old 05-21-2018, 03:06 AM   #43 (permalink)
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So first try on installing the engine the power steering unit was going to contact the sump. I thought I would be fine with the 302 double sump but apparently not.... Bummer. So I had to take the engine out and undo all my threadlocked steering set up. I also had to pull out the wiring to the power steering control unit that I put behind the dash.



So I clocked the pump per the other drill hole and it provides ample room. I guess I have to drill out the 3rd hole to install it.



What I reeeeeeeeallly don't like is that the power steering unit is now the lowest part of my car. Perhaps I can rig up some sort of protective shield in front of it. For now, it's going to stay like this. I know people put it inline towards the firewall but I don't really want to do that right now since it's all been powdercoated...



Motor going in the 2nd time...



I feel like I'm making progress even though it comes at the cost of disassembling things I thought were done. Oh well.

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Old 05-21-2018, 01:46 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Yeah, that power steering hanging down there would worry me too

I've scraped enough low cars over what looked like small changes in road surface.. and there's no protecting that in any meaningful sense. Need chassis and some skid plates to be the lowest thing.. but I think you already know that
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Old 05-21-2018, 03:50 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Wow that’s low for the power steering motor. Yikes. Mine isn’t that low under the coyote. Personally, if figure something else out if it hung below the frame at all. Being that far behind the front wheels, even a decent speed bump would smack it.
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Old 05-21-2018, 04:30 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I have room to clock it closer to the pan. How much clearance do you think I need between the pan and power steering unit?

I've seen posts about shimming the engine mounts. May look into that too. Don't really want to take a ball hammer to my oil pan.

Last edited by fostia; 05-21-2018 at 07:31 PM..
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Old 05-22-2018, 01:09 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Can you raise the engine on the engine blocks? Creating some much needed space?

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Old 05-22-2018, 05:00 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Engine Mount Spacers

Thanks all for your input. Definitely learning a ton of stuff as I go!

So I played around with the clocking last night on the EPS. I can get it to the point where it's hanging just a bit below the frame rail and still have about 1/4-1/2" clearance to the pan (If this is the final location there is not a lot of meat left on the mounting bracket for new holes).

I'd still like to get it higher though and if I can, use the factory clocking holes. So that would require engine mount spacers (or a new oil pan). I have a 302 SBF. What's the best way to space up the engine? I'm thinking directly between the engine block and engine mount. Either buy some aluminum rod and make my own or buy Joe's spacers.


The other way I've seen done is via a spacer such as this Whitby one. I think spacer between the block and the mount is easier. I don't really understand how to Whitby one prevents rotation as there are little alignment pins that are on the engine suspension mounts that seem to become useless with the Whitby spacers.

Anyone raised their 302 engines? I'm not going to run a hood so that's not a problem. I know there could be exhaust clearance issues and I'll also have to ensure my pinion angle is correct but it appears others have done this before.





Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-23-2018, 12:19 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fostia View Post
What I reeeeeeeeallly don't like is that the power steering unit is now the lowest part of my car.
Just keep in mind the front legs of the body are actually lower than the frame in the front as the frame angles up toward the front. So with the body on the fiberglass might be lower than the power steering unit.
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Old 05-26-2018, 11:59 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Garage
plan B

If you decide that there isn't enough left of the mounting plate once
you try to re-clock the PS then try my approach. The PS motor will
fit on the firewall and IMO should have been put there by FF long ago.

There are several threads on this location and some even use the extra
bearing for the coyote combo. That extra bearing clamps to a frame tube
and pushes the middle shafts out closer to the chassis. The firewall location
also makes it easier to put the PS module inside away from the engine heat.

The motor gets clocked up on the firewall and needs tipped out at the top
about 10-15* to un-bind the joints on each side of it. Pretty easy to do it
this way and if done from the beginning you don't need any extra shafts.
If you have already cut yours for the old layout you might need to buy
one new section to make this work. HTH
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Old 05-26-2018, 11:20 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Thanks. I'll keep that in consideration. I've already cut all my steering shaft pieces to length. I even screwed up on one and had to buy another from flaming river. They ain't cheap. In addition i've already powder coated the firewall and I have a whitby power brake booster so I'm not sure if that would all fit. But it's a last resort. I think I can make it work where it is.

In other news, I screwed up my TKO600 rear tailshaft seal trying to get out that stupid plug that goes around the rear spline. Took me about 2 hours to get the damn plug out and then I found out I damaged the tailshaft seal. It was borderline fused in there. Oh well. New seal and a puller tool are on their way from amazon.

It's been a frustrating two weeks
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Old 02-16-2019, 11:23 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Engine first start and mini go-cart

First start today! Fired right up. Ran it at 2500 RPM for 15 minutes then set the timing. Aside for needing to tighten a couple connections, everything appears good. Bought the shortblock from coast high performance but built the entire rest of the engine. First engine for me. Felt good.

Got a little more ballsy and took it down the street. Lost a taillight as it was just lightly clamped on the back. Guess that's not bad of a casualty. The front brake pistons ended up not retracting so I never got it out of first gear and I had significant braking resistance the entire ride. Not sure what's going on. Some of the guys though the master cylinder might be sticking. Slightly bled the front brake and backed it back into the garage. Put it up on jack stands. Brakes didn't stick anymore. Not sure what's going on here. Thoughts? I have Whitby Power brakes....





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Old 02-16-2019, 11:25 PM   #53 (permalink)
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First start - More pics

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Old 02-17-2019, 01:52 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Congrats! Feels awesome for sure i bet! Keep up the good work
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Old 02-18-2019, 06:12 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Bravo, glad you have so many around to share the fun.
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:00 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Bravo, glad you have so many around to share the fun.

Excuse to drink some beer before noon!
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Old 02-21-2019, 04:43 AM   #57 (permalink)
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The pictures from your last couple of posts of the engine build have disappeared unfortunately. Wondering what top end components you added to your CHP short block. I went a similar route with TRE performance; a 347 short block and a top end kit...
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Old 03-07-2019, 06:00 PM   #58 (permalink)
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This link contains pictures of my entire build

Engine top end: AFR185 Heads, Edlebrock RPM Intake, Scorpion Rockers, Summit 347 valve covers and a Holley 750 double pumper 4150 carb. If you want specific part numbers, I can provide them to you, I just don't have immediate access to them from where I'm at right now.

https://goo.gl/photos/bgNiHR8FN1t88ji87
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Old 03-07-2019, 11:53 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Thanks for the link. Looking good!
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Old 03-08-2019, 02:20 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Congratulations. Do yourself a favor and REALLY organize your inventory. It will save you lots of hours as your build goes on. I had quite a few Back-orders. That made my build jumping from one project to another while waiting. Label everything. Even though they have part numbers on bags, do yourself a favor and note what they are used on. IF you are using "After Market" non FFR parts, keep them organized, and order well in advance. I have been waiting months for some Back-orders which is very frustrating. Every time is go to do something, I hit a Road Block. Before you get going, I would suggest checking out Kootenai Customs. Tim builds great quality Options. I am installing some today. He is a great help and always willing to help. I also bought some a lot of Options from Innovative Rodding. Go to these sites and start planning. YOU NEED TO ORDER WELL IN ADVANCE. I have been waiting months for some items. These are not in stock and have to be fabricated.
Enjoy!
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Last post by mdjr70
Today 02:54 AM
7 Replies, 244 Views
New least favorite part...
07-12-2019 05:18 AM
Last post by kitcarnut
Today 02:50 AM
2 Replies, 155 Views
We have lost a friend -...
06-27-2019 11:38 AM
Last post by kitcarnut
Today 02:45 AM
28 Replies, 1,142 Views
Driveshaft help needed
Today 01:43 AM
by BrianE
Last post by duncalope
Today 02:22 AM
1 Replies, 56 Views
Radiator aluminum (Gen-2)
07-14-2019 05:37 PM
Last post by MauiKarl
Today 01:00 AM
1 Replies, 44 Views
AC help
Today 12:48 AM
Last post by MauiKarl
Today 12:48 AM
0 Replies, 34 Views
Edelbrock Supercharger
Yesterday 04:40 PM
by ssbooy
Last post by Bob Cowan
Today 12:44 AM
1 Replies, 54 Views
emissions inspection fail
Yesterday 12:30 PM
by Joel
Last post by Joel
Today 12:25 AM
4 Replies, 110 Views
driveline question
07-14-2019 06:50 PM
Last post by Mark K
Yesterday 11:49 PM
3 Replies, 118 Views
Oil Pressure woes
07-07-2019 11:29 AM
by timmil
Last post by Real time recon
Yesterday 11:00 PM
19 Replies, 780 Views
Todd Buttrick memorial...
Yesterday 10:51 PM
Last post by John_NYC
Yesterday 10:51 PM
0 Replies, 23 Views
WTB: GT40 Intake...
Yesterday 07:51 PM
by HlinAsp
Last post by HlinAsp
Yesterday 07:51 PM
0 Replies, 38 Views
Selling my unfinished... ( 1 2 )
07-07-2019 06:01 PM
by Nealf
Last post by Nealf
Yesterday 07:28 PM
31 Replies, 1,982 Views
Cobra Build Timeline
07-12-2019 03:15 PM
Last post by BrewCityCobra
Yesterday 06:12 PM
13 Replies, 484 Views
Curvature of Dash Panel...
Yesterday 05:05 PM
Last post by 4.6 litre
Yesterday 05:05 PM
0 Replies, 54 Views
Odd Picture Request
07-12-2019 07:31 PM
Last post by ChevyChad
Yesterday 04:42 PM
6 Replies, 127 Views
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