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Old 05-09-2017, 08:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Edit: due to Photobucket brain fart, all the pics in my thread became unviewable. I changed some of the later ones out to imagur, especially where I began deviating from FFR build. The first few pages, I did not and will not go back and reupload and change the links. If you have a question, feel free to ask, but it's all pretty straightforward FFR build until I got to the brake lines. It's about there that I closed the manual and will use it for reference only at times. So please scroll down and photos will start working again.

Guess it's as good a place to start as any. Got all parts inventoried. A couple small things missing. Got the frame on jack stands. Friday, I'll cut grass then maybe start on the front end. I do need to build a body buck but I am anxious to start!

Narly1 thanked this.

Last edited by SVTFreak; 07-01-2017 at 02:27 AM..
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'll try to update this thread better than I did my roadster thread lol.
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Old 05-12-2017, 07:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Built front suspension today. And also a body buck to put castors on to move it around and out of my way. I won't have as much time for the next month to work, as I have to keep my son on my days off. But in a month, we'll have more permanent care and I'll have time. Today I got a sitter so I could have some shop time lol.

Really neat to do this because the front suspension is one of the big reasons I went with FFR instead of an original style chassis and mustang 2

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Old 05-12-2017, 08:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Don't like something like this?





The upper ball joints are particularly nice.




Kugel Komponents, Ford Chassis

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Old 05-12-2017, 09:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I like the inboard coil over setups. Very much so. Still like the FFR tube chassis though.
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Old 05-13-2017, 05:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I've got some stuff you might like at: kootenaivalleycustoms.com

tim Whittaker
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Old 05-14-2017, 12:38 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I've got some stuff you might like at: kootenaivalleycustoms.com

tim Whittaker
I got your PM, Tim. And some of your stuff looks super trick. I will probably be in touch at some point when I get To those steps.
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Old 05-28-2017, 08:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hung the rear end yesterday. Got the fox length axles ordered so I can modify the brackets for the sn95 rear brakes. Front brakes installed. Nothing major yet. Marked the brackets I don't need for removal from from frame and rear end when I take apart to paint much later on down the road.

Leveled up the frame and gonna find center next and start on pedal box.



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Old 06-03-2017, 02:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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No pics today, but I just finished building my brake lines on paper. 500$ later at speedway (at least it's still in my cart there) I have all stainless lines, all stainless fittings, save 2 3/8-24 IFM to 3an adapters for master cylinder. Oh that also includes a good 37* flare tool for stainless tubing.

I have decided to run the ABS power brake inc electric assist system that Tim, basmith and a couple other guys using. So I need to get that order d soon also I guess. Another 1350$ for the short master cyclinder version. After talking to Pedro there today, that really is a trick system.
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Old 06-03-2017, 02:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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After building a complete system with stainless steel lines, I found the tubing fairly hard to bend and had problems with flaring the tubes without cracking the flare, even using Eastwood's high quality flaring tool. Some of the tubing sold at Speedway, with tubing nuts already installed at each end is not recommended to be recut and flared. I reduced the chances of cracking by using a propane torch to anneal the end of the tube, prior to flaring. I got the steel red hot for 30 seconds to a minute and let it air cool before flaring.

I later made some modifications to my brake lines and tried Nicopp tubing. It's so much easier to bend and flare that I would not buy stainless tubing again. It's also considerably less expensive and comes in a roll that's easy to straighten out by hand. I got my tubing from Amazon. I still like to use stainless tube nuts.
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Old 06-03-2017, 04:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for the anneal advice, Dave. And the nicopp. I've seen it while shopping but didn't look at it. I have to make a decision then. The nicopp would save some money. A cheaper 37* flare tool could be bought for sure. But I've always envisioned stainless lines in this car (been planning it for about 20 years).

I can't find any information on weather or not nicopp is safe and ok to use with AN fittings versus double flare though. You have any?

Thanks.
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Old 06-03-2017, 07:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Dave, you've about got me changed to use nicopp, polish it a bit, and AN fittings instead of stainless now.
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Old 06-03-2017, 08:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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AN fittings are fine for hoses, but I would not use them for brake lines. They seem to be a hot rod tradition, but I see no point is using them these days.
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Old 06-03-2017, 08:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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AN fittings are fine for hoses, but I would not use them for brake lines. They seem to be a hot rod tradition, but I see no point is using them these days.
I won't lie. I just want them. They look cool. Always pictured this car with that type of fittings in the lines.
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Old 06-04-2017, 02:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Changed my mind again. Back to stainless tubing and everything is ordered up, flaring tool (found it 40$ off at a plumbing supply store! Hope that works out!) and straightener. If I just can't get the SS to work right, I'll reconsider and go nicopp. After much thought, I went back with what I've always envisioned for this car.
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Old 06-04-2017, 02:27 PM   #16 (permalink)
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If you use AN fitting with a single 37 degree flare the stainless shouldn't be a problem. It's the double 45 flare that can be tough to do. The second flaring operation it where the cracks are likely.

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Old 06-04-2017, 05:12 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I use the AN 37* stuff exclusively. I come from an aviation background, so that's what I know. Never any issues if done correctly with a quality flaring tool.
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Old 06-04-2017, 06:05 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Thanks y'all.

I ordered the ratcheting rigid tool that folks seem to recommend for it. We'll see how it goes! I'm not too worried about it working. I'll anneal the ends. I'm more worried about getting it bent and fit just right to satisfy me lol

I'm going to use some bulkhead fittings where the lines go through the floor at the bottom of the firewall. So from the MC to there (which I won't have the MC here or mounted for awhile yet) I'll wait until later. Still have a bit to do befor I start the lines but I'll have all the parts here and ready
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Old 06-09-2017, 07:16 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Put the fox length axles in, bolted up the back brakes, centered the rear end, laser shot the center line and rough aligned the front end. Then put the wheels on (just my build wheels) just to see what it looks like.

Next is firewall and brakes lines! Still need to order the power brake set up.
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Old 06-12-2017, 07:32 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I think I saw in another thread that you were using a 6R80 tranny behind a Coyote? Did you have to modify the chassis or trans tunnel to fit the beast in? I have been talking about using the 6R80 for a while, but everyone in the business tells me that it won't fit in the Hot Rod. Hopefully, you can prove them wrong! Thanks, Keith
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:36 PM   #21 (permalink)
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In addition to the size problem, the 6R80 also has unusual gearing, shared with it's GM counterpart. The first gear ratio is much lower than a 4 speed model, requiring a tall rear end ratio, in order for 1st gear not to be so low that it's worthless. You need a low first gear in a heavy truck, not a light car.

As an example, my 2014 C7 Corvette has the GM version of this transmission. It uses a 2.56 rear end ratio. This results in a very tall 6th gear for low rpm highway cruising. The first gear ratio is still plenty low, even for a car that weighs quite a bit more than a '33.

You can probably cram anything into a '33 but there may not be enough room for the seats after you do.

TCI makes a true close-ratio 6 speed automatic that can be adapted to a lot of different motors, but it is pricey. It has the same housing as 4L80E.

http://www.tciauto.com/tc/transmission-packageshtml

Last edited by daveS53; 06-13-2017 at 02:28 PM..
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Old 06-13-2017, 12:28 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Progmgr, I do intend to use the 6r80. I don't have the motor and trans yet. I will do all my body work probably first and tackle that maybe next summer? Not in any hurry but....

Some rumors are that there is room, that there won't be much room for pedals. I hear that it is very close for pan to cross member clearance. I am not against cutting and welding. FFR only said it won't work because they don't have a driveshaft. Ok so that's not a problem. The next issue is foot room left after its in. I have some ideas on that, including just putting the brake pedal where the clutch pedal is (I Already have to severely mod the pedal box to mount the ABS system master cylinder, and could easily move it over by doing same mods just mirroring the bracket I have pictured). This would allow me to move the gas pedal over some. But the initial measurements I have found online, I'm not so sure the bell housing is any larger than the 4r70. It's longer for sure. The other option is to move everything toward the driver to get farther on the smaller radius. All those, I will tackle once I have it in the car.

Gearing is the final issue. I can attest that the 1st gear ratio is very low. I have a 2015 mustang (with a 2.9L whipple at 13 psi). 1st is so low it's useless on that car. But the close ratio from there up is nice. Rarely does it go to 1st or second unless at a dead stop. I will run a fairly tall tire on 20" rim in the rear (Louisiana roads don't lend well to rubber band tires) and I will run a taller rear gear. Probably in the 3.08ish range.

I know it's a lot to just be able to say I did it, but it's what I want so it's what I set out to do lol.

I'm not to worried about making it fit and work. I'm actually more worried about making the top work removable with the roadster windshield that I have an itch to attemp after reading the hot rod Lincoln thread.....
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Old 06-20-2017, 10:47 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Lots done today on my first real full day able to work on her!

Finished the firewall with 10-24 button head stainless bolts. Installed the steering column and shaft, the power steering unit but probably have to reclock it later. And started in brake lines. With the right tool, flaring stainless is easy! Got the rear line ran and ran to one side of the rear end. Have to cut the tabs off the rear end to mount the lines solid to. Fwiw, the Eastwood tubing straightener works like a charm!!




Last edited by SVTFreak; 07-01-2017 at 02:24 AM..
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:11 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I'm not to worried about making it fit and work. I'm actually more worried about making the top work removable with the roadster windshield that I have an itch to attemp after reading the hot rod Lincoln thread.....
If you like the Hot Rod Lincoln "look" using the hard top with the roadster windshield, then the easy way to go is to buy the hardtop from Dan Ruth (Welcome to Innovative Rodding Specialists). I've got one of Dan's hardtops in my garage and the workmanship is superb - will save many hours on bodywork. It came with the mounting hardware to keep the top easily removable. Also, Dan is a great guy who is happy to share his knowledge and experience building these kits. Keith
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Old 06-23-2017, 09:36 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTFreak View Post
I'm not to worried about making it fit and work. I'm actually more worried about making the top work removable with the roadster windshield that I have an itch to attemp after reading the hot rod Lincoln thread.....
If you like the Hot Rod Lincoln "look" using the hard top with the roadster windshield, then the easy way to go is to buy the hardtop from Dan Ruth (Welcome to Innovative Rodding Specialists). I've got one of Dan's hardtops in my garage and the workmanship is superb - will save many hours on bodywork. It came with the mounting hardware to keep the top easily removable. Also, Dan is a great guy who is happy to share his knowledge and experience building these kits. Keith
Yeah I saw that and have read mr dans threads completely. That's definitely an option. But part of this is to prove I can do it. I enjoy the challenge and the work (sick, right? Lol).

But thanks for that. It def on my radar if I ruin mine and need another option.
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Old 06-24-2017, 12:10 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Here's the other side of going through. I had a chance to run the first part of the front line today. This came out nice, I think. I got my abs systems power brake setup today. It's gonna be a feat to fit it all there behind the dash. I may have to either move the entire pedal box toward the firewall or turn the MC around and do a bell crank to 180* the force from the pedal. A simple stud with a bearing and a 1:1 arm would suffice but I also have to keep the MC low enough for the reservoirs to drain correctly. They are nice polished aluminum. I think illmount them on the firewall and use tubing and AN fittings to run the supply, return and pump supply lines. I'll put pics of hag I end up doing up. Gonna put the body on next and make that decision



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Old 06-28-2017, 07:42 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Lots done today on my first real full day able to work on her!

Finished the firewall with 10-24 button head stainless bolts. Installed the steering column and shaft, the power steering unit but probably have to reclock it later. And started in brake lines. With the right tool, flaring stainless is easy! Got the rear line ran and ran to one side of the rear end. Have to cut the tabs off the rear end to mount the lines solid to. Fwiw, the Eastwood tubing straightener works like a charm!!





What brand and model# tools did you use for tubing?
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:29 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Looking great and moving along fast.
I see you are riveting screwing etc, are you making it where it will all come apart later for powdercoating the frame?
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:50 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Looking great and moving along fast.
I see you are riveting screwing etc, are you making it where it will all come apart later for powdercoating the frame?
Don, I bolted the firewall on but most of it will only be riveted (or cleco'd or screwed) every few holes. I'll drill them all. I am not sealing anything on or mounting anything permanent (save a few rivets maybe) so I can take apart to finish it. Thanks!

Today, I finished the brake lines except for the axle end flex hoses. The ones I bought are too short and 45* ends will work better. Then I started on the master cylinder. I have the abs systems power brake kit. The two people I talked to used bell crank to change the direction to fit the MC. I put the body on and measures the room I had and opted to attempt to install backwards. I had 13" to the firewall tubing. I moved the pedal box forward, cut off the brackets for the wilwood cylinders. Then I threw the brake pedal out and moved the clutch pedal over to use. I drilled and tapped the end to fit the abs cylinder rod threads and screwed it in. Once I got the basics there, I ground out some more aluminum to move it forward a bit more and allow me to raise the brake pedal a bit more. Next, I put the body on again and checked fit. It fits! It's tight but works fine. So I ground a little more to improve fit and pedal placement a bit more. Then I made two angle brackets to bolt it to. One will be double bolted to the box and the other bolted to the box bolt and welded to the frame. I also have some gussets cut to add to the sides of each bracket to improve strength and I will add a bracket to put all 4 pedal box bolts in. I think it should work wonderfully once finished.

A couple of brake line pics just for novelty, and the last is the master cylinder mount work in progress. This is the abs 6 3/4" MC. I don't think the long one would fit. The reservoirs will be on the firewall with an lines to feed the MC, pump and overflow to tank.




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Old 06-29-2017, 11:39 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Garage
clamps

Those line clamps are nice, what brand are they ?

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