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Old 08-10-2019, 05:09 PM   #211 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamp View Post
On my Magnuson setup I ran a fused lead via a relay directly from the battery, my battery is located in the trunk. This eliminates any voltage drop from long leads coming from the front of the car.
For what, the power? I'll prolly run a separate 10 awg for it, and use the computer lead to switch a relay. Throw a 30 Amp fuse in it then. Waiting on word from Ford. The relay and fuse in the control panel is 40 Amp but the fuel pump wire isn't 10 awg. Looks to be 14.
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Old 08-11-2019, 11:01 PM   #212 (permalink)
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yes. power for the fuel pump.
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Old 08-12-2019, 01:10 PM   #213 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamp View Post
yes. power for the fuel pump.
Thought so. Yes, my battery is in the back also. I think I'm going to build me a little project box with a 10 awg input with a 30a fuse. Then use a relay inside and use the computer power to trip it on and a 10 awg wire to the fuel pumps. That way I know the wire and supporting gear is big enough and won't melt.
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Old 08-21-2019, 07:17 PM   #214 (permalink)
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Made up my fuel filler neck today and got it and cap installed. After hours of looking at options, I like the ffr supplied one the best. I'll countersink it so it's flush (and add some support to the back) and take it apart and chrome the parts you see for final assembly.


Installed. Had to move it slightly from originally planned spot.


Tomorrow, I'll be trying to finish up the passenger side taillight. If it works as planned, I'll document the drivers side over the next couple days and show how I did it.
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Old 08-22-2019, 01:41 PM   #215 (permalink)
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Taillight content!

As yall may know, I am using hagan 9" teardrop flush mounts. But they are really designed for steel. So it took some thinking how to make them work in glass. I talked to a few more knowledgeable and experienced builders before trying a blend of their advice. Mr Tim provided a ton of guidance.

First thing I did (after cutting the holes, see previous post for that) was figure where the box would go and glue in the studs for that. I used a Devon product that we use at work that's works rally well for applications like this. I roughed up thr plates and smeared it in good, applied it while the box was located and moved it around a bit to get good adherence. Then, since the box would go straight in and out on the bottom due to wheel well, I slotted the bottom slot to the end and now it goes down from the top, then goes on top stud and bolts in.






Next, the big issue I had was the red lens part wasn't thick enough to go through the glass. So I trimmed the lens to have a lip all the way around then I thinned the body around the cutout so the lens sat down in it. This allowed the red lens do stick up just enough.




Next, I cut a piece of lexan just slightly larger than the box. The idea is the lexan, then the box is installed, will push the lens and hold it tight


Once all bolted in, it looks like this!



It sits up just enough that I think when I do my paint, it'll be very close and require very little sanding and fitting. Then the cut and buff will make it exact. I'm doing it then because I don't want it flush now then recessed once the paint thickness is there. The tip top and very bottom, I think I'm gonna also add a dab of the epoxy putty on final assembly, just to add a little extra support since those spots are rhe farthest from the box edges. Then it'll be easily ground out right at the edge should I need to remove the lens ever.

Anyway, the concept worked! Just FYI, the other plan, which Mr Tim used, was to add another layer of the red and use the glue that hagan uses and not recess the lens. If you want an idea of another path that would work also.

Now, I'll be fixing the edges in a few spots I got too aggressive and took too much off, then moving on to drivers side. Once I get them wired up and working, I'll post some pics.
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Old 08-22-2019, 03:27 PM   #216 (permalink)
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Well, that didn't take long at all. Edges fixed up, all installed and wired up. They work great!
Off


Running lights


Brake lights


They go bright/dim or bright/off for blinkers. Exactly like the ffr lights. They come with a bright/dim module you add if needed. I thought about adding a short led strip at bottom for turn signal but I think this will work just fine. I am very pleased. (They look a little less bright than the photo on driving lights and actually a little more bright in brakes. Maybe the photo angle)
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Old 08-22-2019, 04:58 PM   #217 (permalink)
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Boy what a PIA huh? I had to do the same thing and make up a convoluted elbow out of steel to make the bends as no hose is going to make those sharp of turn - pre formed or not. And as an added bonus I already had the deck mounted filler with the original tank, so moving the filler to accommodate the Boyd tank wasn't a very desirable option.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTFreak View Post
Made up my fuel filler neck today and got it and cap installed. After hours of looking at options, I like the ffr supplied one the best. I'll countersink it so it's flush (and add some support to the back) and take it apart and chrome the parts you see for final assembly.


Installed. Had to move it slightly from originally planned spot.


Tomorrow, I'll be trying to finish up the passenger side taillight. If it works as planned, I'll document the drivers side over the next couple days and show how I did it.
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Old 08-22-2019, 10:46 PM   #218 (permalink)
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Yep. If id have left it further up, a simple 90* would have done it. But since I moved it closer to the edge of the car, it now has two angles.
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Old 08-26-2019, 05:47 PM   #219 (permalink)
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Finished up the drivers side taillight today. Here is the whole back end.
Off


Running


I had no one to press brake for me today so that's all you get lol. I am very please with how they came out but I may add a secomd strip to each to make them overall brighter. Once it's mobile again, I'll take it out on the street at night and see how they look.

Now to mod my blower inlet a touch then move on to trying to finish up body work.
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Old 08-30-2019, 07:24 PM   #220 (permalink)
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Body work!

Front lower cone in place. Pain in the butt. Think it went in and out 30 times. I haven't decided final fastener yet. Either countersunk stainless or stainless rivets.


SON OF A B.....


Yep. Guess while upside down and on creeper, I drilled wrong place and too deep. Guess I need an aluminum welder before chrome time.

Used grommets to support hood sides. This will both set the gap and be bumpers for installation and removal. I was going to run the bolts through them but now I think I'd rather not have nuts so considering my options here. I know there are some rubber inserts with brass threaded nuts inside but I don't know what they are called to find them. Research time.


Hood side in place. Little fitting left and fasteners. Have to move my front brake like somewhere else.
Looking at this is like looking at a pic with a naked woman. Don't focus so much on the blower that you miss the reason I posted it. Or, just revel in the beauty of a twin screw. I dont blame you lol.


I don't think the hood is gonna fit like I wanted it to, sparky. Guess I gotta stay considering how to put a hump that fits the overall smooth appearance I'm after.
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Old 08-31-2019, 05:52 AM   #221 (permalink)
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SVTFreak – Apologies, it has been a while since I’ve commented on your build, but lots of great work going on as usual.

The extra effort you put into things like the gas cap, rear lights, etc. has left them looking factory standard.
( Although, I was sorry to see you accidently drilled thru the radiator grille creating extra work. )

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTFreak View Post
… I know there are some rubber inserts with brass threaded nuts inside but I don't know what they are called to find them…
If these are what you are talking about, they are called “Well Nuts” in the UK.

https://www.kayfast.co.uk/view-product/Rubber-Well-Nuts

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTFreak View Post
… I don't think the hood is gonna fit like I wanted it to, sparky. Guess I gotta stay considering how to put a hump that fits the overall smooth appearance I'm after.
I’m sure you have your own ideas about how to do this, but here is what I did (if it helps)…

I found some insulation foam in a dumpster and that was very easy to carve for my own hood hump.



This would allow you to see different shapes before deciding on a final design.



The foam then supports the fibreglass matting to create the final piece.



Which was then trimmed and taped firmly into position on the ‘sunny side’.



As the real strength comes from adding the fibreglass across the join on the underside of the hood.



I also added some fibreglass matting to the join on the sunny side.



At this point, everything is still very much a ‘work in progress’.



But by the time you do a few rounds of body work and paint, the new section blends in with the old.



Good luck, Paul.
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Old 09-01-2019, 12:24 PM   #222 (permalink)
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Yes, Paul! Well nuts. That's exactly what I want!

I like your foam idea. That, combined with what I'm thinking, may work. I'm thinking I may cut 3 sides (front and each side) and push it up to clear, then glass that down to the hood. Leaving something that will look very similar to ffr's bumped hood. The foam could help me get the shape of the front just right. Thanks man.
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Old 09-02-2019, 08:39 PM   #223 (permalink)
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Joey,
I just sent you a large email with tips on fabricating fiberglass parts, similar to Paul L's suggestions. Check your spam folder if you don't see it.
Keith
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Old 09-04-2019, 07:46 AM   #224 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Joey,
I just sent you a large email with tips on fabricating fiberglass parts, similar to Paul L's suggestions. Check your spam folder if you don't see it.
Keith
I did get your email, Keith. And yes, was very helpful on ideas on how to accomplish what I want. Will Def save me some filler time later on.
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