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Old 08-24-2018, 01:13 PM   #151 (permalink)
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ITS ALIVE!!!

Hooked up battery and hit key and gauges came to life. Didn’t blow every fuse and coyote black box did it’s clicking. Fuel pump even ran.

Hopefully it’ll run in an hour or so.

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Old 08-24-2018, 02:45 PM   #152 (permalink)
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Took a bit longer. Motor won’t start with crank sensor unplugged lol! But she started and ran! Yay!
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Old 08-27-2018, 11:18 PM   #153 (permalink)
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Congrats on the engine start. A big hurtle.
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:55 PM   #154 (permalink)
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As some of you know, when running a coyote with power steering, the oil filter won’t fit. Not even the small ac delco one. I chose an MMR relocation kit. It came with everything except a 1/4” and an 1/8” pipe plug. You can even move your oil pressure sender to the filter housing if you want to. The housing on the motor only has a single 1/4” pipe spot for a sender. I chose to leave it there, downstream of the filter and hoses. Overall, it’s a very good setup. Has the nylon covered braided hoses and good fittings. Only downside is if you are using braided stainless, it won’t match. But there are other options then.

Spent today making the hoses up, and mounting the filter. I made a steel backplate so that just the firewall aluminum isn’t the only thing holding the filter. Provably overkill but a piece of mind for me. It is welded to the angled brace behind the firewall and the bolts thread straight into it. Hose routing will be cleaned up and finalized later, after everything I need is mounted.




In other news, I got the fuel leak around the sender fixed. Had to tamp down the high part so it could seal right. So now it runs on its own gas tank supply. Also starting to look at how I’ll fill the trans. I think I’m going to cut an access hole in the tunnel and just glass it up after. I shouldn’t have to fill it again and future changes I’ll do on a lift.

All i need now is a driveshaft, shifter (its ordered), put my steering back together, and fill and energize the brake system and I think I’m ready for a go cart ride!
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Old 09-15-2018, 08:19 PM   #155 (permalink)
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The 6R80 transmission doesn’t use a slip yoke in the output. It has a flange. FFR doesn’t support this trans yet. So, after calling several online driveshaft shops as gasping at the price, I called my usual dude. He can make the driveshaft with the splined yoke in it, balanced and ready to bolt in for a much more reasonable cost. Still quite a bit more than the normal style shafts lol. So, I brought him the two flanges I have (one for each end) and the one new u joint I sourced from the FFR driveshaft. They have to order the parts for the slip yoke but said it should be ready by middle of next week. Another hurdle sorted and hopefully solved. I think that was the last “must have” hurdle, and everything else is “this’ll make it real cool” hurdles to make this trans work.
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Old 09-19-2018, 04:55 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Picked up and installed the driveshaft. It’s 38 1/8” installed but the slip joint allows for the expansion and collapsing for movement. A grease fitting for the slip yoke fell perfectly accessible from the bottom. I did have to drop the rear end to get it in though.



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Old 09-19-2018, 09:04 PM   #157 (permalink)
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No photos, cause, let’s face it, filling and bleeding brakes ain’t no fun lol. Got them full to each corner, wired up the pump to the efi trigger wire from the RF harness (not used with coyote) and tied the power wire in at the frpp black box. Powered it up and nothing. After calling ABS, they think the pump is bad (and he sounded like wasn’t common, I hope it isn’t!). So they have a new pump on the way. I have fluid to the pump suction, but can’t get even a drop at the outlet. So they took care of me easily.
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Old 09-20-2018, 07:45 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Well, I decided today that I need a place to grab battery +12 from. So I ran a line from the FRPP black box to the stud that the coyote kit comes with. I mounted it near the column near inertia switch. Now I have a place for my steering, brakes, heater/ac, windows and other incidentals that need power (amplifier will come off battery as it will be closer to it). Then I wired up my horns. Did some cleaning up of unused wires and shrink wrapped and got those bundled up. When I take apart for paint, I’ll lose all those wires and tuck my added wires into the harness. Also started wiring up my heater/ac but stopped as id rather have the brake pump in before I start trying to fit more stuff. Verified all indicator lights worked so that when I wire into the Dakota digital box, since body will be on, I hopefully won’t have to add anything. Cleaned up hanging wires (once everything functions, I’ll cut out and remove stuff like that, for now it’s getting wound up and tied away) working towards getting ready to go cart around a bit. Just need a brake booster pump and shifter!





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Old 09-28-2018, 09:27 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Extended the wires and mounted my floor mounted brights switch today. Made a bracket to hold it at a little angle and mount it up high and close to the side. So it’s unobtrusive and hidden as possible but still useable. It bolts to the 1.5”x1.5” upright on that side. Wiring is 12 gauge. Not much else I can do until I get my brake booster pump and shifter. Ac/heat wiring but using this chance to get some around the house work done.

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Old 10-04-2018, 09:39 PM   #160 (permalink)
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No new pics today, but a couple hurdles done. The brake pump from ABS came today so I swapped it out. And my electro hydraulic power brakes now work great! No leaks on my firs ever for me stainless lines with all AN fittings. And that’s a first also!

Picked up on wiring the ac/heat. Got blower going but the defrost/panel/floor wouldn’t change. The switch was working and the control box was working (+12 v was changing pins on switch and changing to where the control sent it on plugs) but they wouldn’t move. So called vintage air and they walked me through pulling the servo. The floor one, the doors where just stuck. Got it going. The panel one the servo isn’t working. So they got one coming to me to replace it.
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Old 10-09-2018, 11:08 PM   #161 (permalink)
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Had a good day tidying up loose ends. Got my servo from vintage air and got it working and back together. Got my gauges in and got those wired up. I used the cruise control input for the power steering trouble light. Swapped out the sensors for water temp and oil pressure. Everything seems in order and works. The gauges staying in the box for now. The control boxes I mounted on spacers on the air control box. Forgive the absolute mess of wires. When I do the final assembly, I will dewire the harness and then make everything neat. For now, I’m just making sure I have everything I need in the right place and it’s working. The BIM-01-2 takes the speed, rpm and a few other things from the ecu and allows display of it in the gauges.



The Dakota digital gauges need a special dimmer if you want it to dim by a knob. The normal FFR gauge dimmer won’t work. So, instead of running a new wire, I moved the gauge light white from its place and soldered it onto the blue headlight wire. I removed the wire from the plug and soldered it straight to the terminal. You can adjust the light brightness in the gauges but once set it’s a little more than just a knob. Which is ok with me. I’ll set it once. I’m a little worried about it not coming on with running lights, but there was already two wires there. If that comes to be a problem in my shakedown time, I’ll move it for final build.


I also went and got my body out of storage today and fixed a bad rivnut in it. Going to cut my gauge hole and access holes for ac and brake reservoirs and get started on getting it on and body work, power windows etc. Exciting to move to new phases.

Still waiting on my shifter to go cart around a bit.
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Old 10-17-2018, 10:43 PM   #162 (permalink)
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Put it in today. Ready for first go cart tomorrow I hope! I will have to brace the mounting surface when I take the tunnel out. I used rivnuts as the bolts where not long enough.


I did have to reangle the bracket to clear the frame.


Installed and done. Will have to put a keeper to keep cable out of driveshaft. Otherwise works wonderfully. The side movement for up and down shift is real neat. Can't wait to wire that up and try it.
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Old 10-18-2018, 03:37 PM   #163 (permalink)
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First drive!

The factory Mustang converter will work great with the power brakes. I am very pleased with the brakes, power steering effort and the converter. One weird noise to find. The throttle is very touchy. I might have tuner slow it a little when I have it tuned.

Sorry for very short video. The camera man wasn't fast enough when I came back. Didn't go far, or fast. Baby steps!

https://youtu.be/alKedbs4UJ0
[video=youtube_share;alKedbs4UJ0]https://youtu.be/alKedbs4UJ0[/video]
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Old 10-26-2018, 07:01 PM   #164 (permalink)
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Installed my factory intake today and test drove it. A little stumble occasionally but much better than before. This thing will be stupid fast and I haven't even started the supercharger install!

In other news. I cut the holes for the gauges and access panels. Smoothed the edges good and planned the overlap for router to countersink them. Also tapped in for third brake light and dropped that wire out below dash so don't have to try after body is on. I think I have everything I need from there so can put body back on soon. Tapped into the purple wire right before it goes to plug to rear harness.



How you like this for a custom intake lol! At least now I feel better about putting the blower on and just having it tuned once.

Here is where I tapped in for the third brake light. There's solder and a little shrink wrap under there somewhere. Didn't have much room and heat made me cut the wrap down so added some tape to help protect it.


I quit for the day. I'm going for a ride in the mk4. It's 65 deg and first real nice fall day we've had.
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Old 11-01-2018, 09:43 PM   #165 (permalink)
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I modified the dremel router depth tool today and cut out to flush mount my cowl covers. It's not perfect, but a little extra glass behind and a touch of body filler and they'll look great. Here is the tool and how I just cut the brace off. It took some patience for sure though.


Here is final "routed" product.



I did install the driveshaft cover also. Pain to do once the tunnel is in....


Lastly, I turned the body over to finish back filling my tail light holes. Also going to glass in some metal plates for the rear top bolts. And I'm going to glass in some plates around the front top mount bolts to help spread the force out and prevent cracking I hope. Also have to build up the backs of the cowl access holes to have strength for the rivnuts that will be counter sunk there. That'll be next Mondays work. I'm off next week and hope to have the body on and maybe close to working on power windows by the weeks end.
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Old 11-05-2018, 03:04 PM   #166 (permalink)
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A little glass work today. Glassed in some washers for the back top mount places to help reinforce the rivnuts and hold them in. Got plenty epoxy down around the nuts. Then I made some plates to reinforce the front top mount areas and help spread the load out. Hopefully prevent any stress and cracking. Then I built up the area around my access panels where I counter sinking them in since it was pretty thin. That's it for today. Got some errands to run and grab some body filler. Think I'll do the body seams tomorrow before I put the body on maybe Wednesday.


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Old 11-05-2018, 06:39 PM   #167 (permalink)
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Made a carbon fuel vent canister today. 1 1/2 pvc pipe. Fish tank charcoal filler with dry rite to remove water. Excuse my messy bench

The parts.

Inlet end

Vent end. Just a pattern of 1/8" holes. Can also see the media in some gas to test it. This is the dry rite that'll go in last to help dry the air going into the tank and hopefully help with E10's affinity for water.

Fish tank charcoal inside a Panty hose foot then pulled tight and tied off and packed in.

The dry rite. I filled the carbon the same way. Then pulled tight and tied off. I left extrato help keep it tight so it won't let vapors get around the media if I mount it horizontal


Finished product. Both ends. Cap not glued on yet. Gonna let dry rite sit in gas overnight to ensure it'll work. Just some extra help for the humid south Louisiana air. Carbon should work well enough alone but I had it laying around so trying it out.

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Old 11-06-2018, 08:15 PM   #168 (permalink)
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More good progress today. Turned the body back over, cleaned up the access edges. 4 layers of cloth yielded thick ledges for the plates. Then I decided to do the body seams with it off the car. I use 3M platinum plus. Then on the car it went. I also went and got the doors, top and waterfall out of storage and cleaned up the top.




But something is wrong. All my body fasteners lined up with minimal fuss. Firewall bolts, body side rivets and rear bolts. Something definitely isn't right for that to happen lol

Tomorrow, I think I'll reinstall the doors and fit the waterfall (haven't had it in yet) and maybeput the top on so I can start working on power windows.
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Old 11-08-2018, 05:12 PM   #169 (permalink)
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Top is back on. Waterfall is in. Doors are pretty darn close. Power window time. Then I think I'll try to get the blower on.

The flange for the window weatherstripping is too thick. I need to thin it out but I'm tired. Head hurts. Going take a break.

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Old 11-09-2018, 07:47 AM   #170 (permalink)
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Looks so good with the hardtop!!
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Old 11-10-2018, 04:36 PM   #171 (permalink)
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It's looking nice!
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Old 11-10-2018, 08:49 PM   #172 (permalink)
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It's looking nice! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forums/images/FFCars_2016/smilies/tango_face_grin.png[/IMG]
Thank you! Exciting times for sure! Gonna be after Thanksgiving or so before I can work again though.
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Old 11-16-2018, 03:40 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Looking Great!!

Have you had a chance to see if you charcoal vent helped much? I'm thinking of doing something similar because I always have a very gassy smell in the garage, and I haven't been able to find any leaks whatsoever.
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Old 11-18-2018, 04:10 AM   #174 (permalink)
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Looking Great!!

Have you had a chance to see if you charcoal vent helped much? I'm thinking of doing something similar because I always have a very gassy smell in the garage, and I haven't been able to find any leaks whatsoever.
Thanks!

I haven't installed it yet. Hopefully the week after Thanksgiving I'll get it in. I can promise you it will help though. You can build one or just buy one, I used a stock 87-93 Mustang one on my mk4 and I get zero has smell from it.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:30 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Started building my power window frame from T Collins today (thanks again!). I did make one change. I cut the top peices 1/8” longer and am fitting the side rails under the 1/16” lip on each end to hide the upright u channels when viewed from the top. I actually may change them out later to even longer to trim the ends better. I’ll decide after I see how it all fits together on the car. Will be next week before I can finish them up.


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Old 11-29-2018, 07:49 PM   #176 (permalink)
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Finished the window tracks today. Still have to put the mounting angles in the bottom but figured I’d get it in the door first as there could be huge difference between mine and tCollins. Now on to thinning the weatherstripping flange and getting these in. I’ll try to start on that next week. Gonna grind the front and rear window flanges thinner also while I’m outside with it making a mess.

I didn’t put the felt and window scraper rubber in yet. I’ll do that right before I load the glass and into the door. At some point I’ll prolly have to redo that anyway when I maybe remake the top parts and paint or chrome them.

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Old 11-30-2018, 10:02 AM   #177 (permalink)
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Looks great SVT! Please post lots of pics of the windows as you install them. Im interested in doing something similar to the T. Collins design. Thanks!
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Old 12-03-2018, 01:34 AM   #178 (permalink)
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Looks Awesome, nice work!!
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:15 PM   #179 (permalink)
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Looks great SVT! Please post lots of pics of the windows as you install them. I’m interested in doing something similar to the T. Collins design. Thanks!
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Looks Awesome, nice work!!
Thanks guys! I will post plenty pics when I reach that point. Took the top off today to thin the flanges around the windows for the weather stripping and grind the front and rear window openings out to a 3/4" ledge all around. The front and rear where fine. The side windows though where very thin in some spots, and not glued together well. I broke through in some places. Dadgummit. So, I mixed up some epoxy and soaked some cloth in it and tucked into where I broke through. I hope to get it plugged enough I can mix some flock and fill it in without having to access the backside. Well see after this cures and I can smooth it out I guess. It might have done it cause I ground too much off to try to get the weather stripping tucked as close to the body as possible. If I'd have left a touch more of the flange, might have been OK. Either way, now I have to fix it and it'll still look the way I want it to when done.

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Old 12-04-2018, 03:24 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Made an attempt at patching the spots today. I did a test yesterday and it seems to have worked. Rather than try to get access to the backside, I soaked some glass and and poked it down into the cracks. Then sanded down. Seems to have bonded well enough. So today I did them all. After it cures well (aided by a lamp since it's cold today), I'll fill the little voids left. Also changed out the studs for mounting the front to longer ones to clear the extra bracing I put under the cowl.


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