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Old 04-10-2018, 07:10 PM   #121 (permalink)
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So, today, I finally succumbed to the fact that I had to move the gas tank filler to accomplish what I want. I was going to run the hose custom down and around from the deck above the trunk but knew in my heart that wasn’t right. It needed to move. I was worried about welding it and I want to do this myself. So, I cut out the filler, drilled a new hole for it and fit a filler plate for the old spot. Now, I’m a long way from a good welder. But once I got my heat right, it did well. I had to fill a couple pinholes after these pics where taken, but you get the idea. I checked it with water (twice). No leaks! Well, on my weld anyway. The level sender is leaking. I took it apart, cleaned it up, and put back in tighter and it still leaks. Not even trying to seal. Any advice on that before I fuel-safe sealastic it in place?



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Old 04-11-2018, 09:00 PM   #122 (permalink)
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I had done the same change, I have yet to look and find the right hose to connect to the new location so if you find one please post it! Here is a couple of the resultant pictures of the relocation. I also clipped the corners so it fits better and I should be able to remove it easier should it be necessary later.

20180317_102412.jpg

20180317_102407.jpg
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:19 PM   #123 (permalink)
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I had done the same change, I have yet to look and find the right hose to connect to the new location so if you find one please post it! Here is a couple of the resultant pictures of the relocation. I also clipped the corners so it fits better and I should be able to remove it easier should it be necessary later.

Attachment 321481

Attachment 321489
I like that corner mod.

I think a section of a mustang filler hose is going to work. Theres an angle, near 90*’s, at the bottom, of I remember right. I’ll place the filler lid according to where the hose I find that fits ends up meeting it at. I know where i want it, so hopefully I can get it there. I sure will share what I use to make it up, but may be awhile. You do the same please!
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Old 04-12-2018, 12:55 PM   #124 (permalink)
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I like that corner mod.

I think a section of a mustang filler hose is going to work. Theres an angle, near 90*s, at the bottom, of I remember right. Ill place the filler lid according to where the hose I find that fits ends up meeting it at. I know where i want it, so hopefully I can get it there. I sure will share what I use to make it up, but may be awhile. You do the same please!
Absolutely will, our cars are close cousins (mine is #1028) so its interesting to see what has been done. If you can provide a part# then i can get it locally (have a great parts store that takes returns without fees) try it and give you feedback. i was going to try and mock it up using plumbing pipes to get the right shape. Lets coordinate together on it.
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Old 04-13-2018, 06:59 PM   #125 (permalink)
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I like that corner mod.

I think a section of a mustang filler hose is going to work. Theres an angle, near 90*’s, at the bottom, of I remember right. I’ll place the filler lid according to where the hose I find that fits ends up meeting it at. I know where i want it, so hopefully I can get it there. I sure will share what I use to make it up, but may be awhile. You do the same please!
Absolutely will, our cars are close cousins (mine is #1028) so its interesting to see what has been done. If you can provide a part# then i can get it locally (have a great parts store that takes returns without fees) try it and give you feedback. i was going to try and mock it up using plumbing pipes to get the right shape. Lets coordinate together on it.
Actually, I just looked at my mk4. The mustang filler won’t work like it is. But it might work using the factory five rubber filler as a hose couple at each end. The mustang filler is a metal tube. Check out the filler tube for a 1987-1993 mustang (any model) and see if it’ll fill the space between then use the FFR rubber with hose clamps as couplers at each end. You’ll only need a part of the mustang one, probably one end of the radius that would be at the bottom. Just might work.

I was also going to try just using a section of the FFR hose, and trim the radiused end to fit.
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Old 04-13-2018, 07:07 PM   #126 (permalink)
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6R80 content!

I put in the headers and first sections today. Glad I did before I started the trans tunnel. The driver side 02 sensor plugged right in. Plenty wire. The passenger side didn’t work. The plug for the 02 sensor comes out of the harness about 3/4 of the way down the transmission. The 02 plug falls right about there the starter is after i drilled a hole in the motor mount for the plastic holder to make it neat. So, I dissected the harness and pulled the 02 sensor wires up. I was able to slit the foil cover and unfold the fiber insulation. Once I pulled enough that I could double it back and teach the 02 sensor plug, I tucked all the fiber back in and taped it back up to reseal the harness. I made up where they come out now. I’m out of small split loom so I wrapped them with tape for now. I’ll loom it and tape it to make it look factory eventually. Pics for fun and better than I can describe.




Finished product inside the car

Almost finished product at starter. Loom and a good place to attach it and it’ll look wonderful and hidden
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:24 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Mounted the regulator today. I had to space it off a touch. Im making a billet block to mount it on. Ran like to rails. Mounted the tank back in after some cleaning and ran the tank vent to underneath. I’ll add a carbon canister later when I find one I like.



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Old 04-19-2018, 12:10 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Cool build

Looks great keep photos coming, love the details
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Old 04-24-2018, 03:13 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Hanging exhaust yesterday and today. Stopped at mufflers. Didn’t get the rear exhaust as I wasn’t sure it would work but it might. They have to share real estate with the intercooler reservoir and fluid cooler. But if I move the cooler to behind the axle (if it’ll fit there with fans) then the FFR may work.

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Old 04-26-2018, 01:50 PM   #130 (permalink)
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I got the trans tunnel in. It actually fits over the 6R80 easily. Making this transmission fit has been much easier than I expected it to be. Will be trying foot room later today. I also ran the main engine harness to the relay box through the top left of the tunnel.


I did take the time to Install rivnuts in the front face of the tunnel and use the same bolts I used for the firewall to attach it. Makes it a bit of an order puzzle to assemble but it sure looks cleaner than rivets from the inside and will make sure it stays sealed.
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Old 04-26-2018, 06:01 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Highly modded the coyote has pedal. Cut off a lot of the excess. Made a bracket to mount the bottom. Used one of ffrs for the top. It’s ok but I’m not crazy about it. After I got it mounted, it was too long and no way to move it up. So I hacked up the FFR pedal and used it like they say. I’m still not crazy about it’s looks now. It’s function is fine but looks is just, well, hermaphroditish. Excuse pics, I still have to twist it slightly to face the right way. But you can see the brackets I made.

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Old 04-30-2018, 08:24 AM   #132 (permalink)
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Lokar makes a coyote drive by wire pedal, I think that would probably look a lot better than this "hack-Job"...

RJ
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Old 05-01-2018, 10:05 AM   #133 (permalink)
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Lokar makes a coyote drive by wire pedal, I think that would probably look a lot better than this "hack-Job"...

RJ
Yes, RJ I saw that. But they all say 11-14 model. I’m not sure if there is any difference for 15+, but I am considering a swap to one of those.
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Old 05-01-2018, 03:28 PM   #134 (permalink)
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Yes, RJ I saw that. But they all say 11-14 model. Im not sure if there is any difference for 15+, but I am considering a swap to one of those.

Talk to Travis Johnson at Lokar. [email protected] He was extremely helpful when I was looking for a shifter.
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Old 05-01-2018, 04:21 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Yes, RJ I saw that. But they all say 11-14 model. I’m not sure if there is any difference for 15+, but I am considering a swap to one of those.

Talk to Travis Johnson at Lokar. [email protected] He was extremely helpful when I was looking for a shifter.
I think you directed me to him on the shifter. He also helped me find one. I’ll contact him again when time comes. For now, I’m gonna work towards getting it going. I’ve got lots of things that will get changed out to the final form after that over time
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:41 PM   #136 (permalink)
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Taking a little break on the 33 while i get my mk4 sorted out. Still have weird oil pressure issues after a new pump, and possibly super fine metal flake in the oil. Will be back on the 33 after I figure out what’s up and either fix it or get a new motor on the way.
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:48 PM   #137 (permalink)
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As it pertains to the gas pedal issue, for those of you using the electronic throttle in the pictures, have you found it VERY sensitive and hard to progressively add power to the engine in a slow smooth way? I understand that it may require a tune before it may be better, however just looking to see if others had a very HYPER sensitive throttle initially? TY!
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Old 06-22-2018, 06:38 PM   #138 (permalink)
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Summer is here and the wife works limited hours and no care at her job anymore. So I have the kids some days and have less time to myself to work on it. At 45 minutes a week, it’s gonna take awhile to get the 1200 or so hours I’m guessing it’s gonna take lol!

Put the top on and ran the harness through it (instead of firewall to keep the wires all hidden). Excuse the mess of electrical parts and tools. Now to build a temp gauge panel, and tie the coyote harness into electrical and get the bump to start and fuel controls working. Won’t be long, hopefully, and we’ll be making some noise.

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Old 06-28-2018, 06:57 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Finished up my temporary gauge pod for go cart. When the body goes back on, it’ll get Dakota digital, either vhx or hdx all in one elliptical. Haven’t decided if I want the digital readout in the center yet or not. On one hand, it would fit the late model hi tech style but it would clutter up the smooth sleek that in seeking in the end. Opinions?

I also ran my battery + and -, ran the rear harness to everywhere but the fuel sender. Need a grommet for that. Installed the oil pressure sender for temp gauges. Started to install the water temp but I don’t like the 2 bushing method. Gets the sender a ways out of the flow, if you ask me. So I ordered the right 3/4-1/8” pipe bushing to use. I may put a battery in it soon and start testing circuits.

Now I have to start figuring out how and where to cut in the coyote harness. It’s starter lead, fan control and whatnot will have to tap into the harness aomewheee. I don’t wanna run full wires. Also need to bring senders into dash and figure out where to mount the electric steering control and wire that up.

Pic of my silly temp gauges lol.

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Old 06-28-2018, 10:33 PM   #140 (permalink)
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I've looked at the Dakota Digital gauges as part of my planning. Both the HDX-2017 and VHX-1017 caught my eye. I'm favouring the VHX though. The digital message center in the HDX being front and center doesn't really work for me. These are hot rods, seems natural to have/want the speed and RPM info front and center.

Thanks for the all the info you're putting this build thread. Much appreciated, particularly by us newbies...
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Old 06-29-2018, 10:24 AM   #141 (permalink)
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I looked at this one from DD:

MDX-2017-S-GSS-DIM (MDX is the km version of the VDX

you can get all kinds of interfaces as well for hooking up the engine data to the DD gauges

Robert
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:45 PM   #142 (permalink)
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I've looked at the Dakota Digital gauges as part of my planning. Both the HDX-2017 and VHX-1017 caught my eye. I'm favouring the VHX though. The digital message center in the HDX being front and center doesn't really work for me. These are hot rods, seems natural to have/want the speed and RPM info front and center.

Thanks for the all the info you're putting this build thread. Much appreciated, particularly by us newbies...

I bought the VHZ-1018 for my Hot Rod. I just liked the looks of it and went with the back background and the blue lighting. I also like the control unit that they use. Just wire it up, mount it and a single cat-5 cable to the unit and your done.


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Old 08-03-2018, 05:39 PM   #143 (permalink)
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I am finally starting to get some shop time! School starts next week and i should get my days off again. I was able to get out there today and extend the power steering wires.

I cut each wire on the control plug and used a trailer four wire bundle. I subbed the yellow for red. By offsetting the cuts and spices, it keeps the finished product thinner and cleaner with less bulk at the one spot. This is in the electric motor end.


Then I soldered and shrink wrapped each joint
[img]https://i.imgur.com/9KK3TwZ.jpg[img]

Then I shrink wrapped over all joints to keep it tight and support the joints. And for even more protection.


Then did the power and ground side the same way using 14 gauge wire (same as what’s on the motor)


Then i ran the wires along with the sending unit harness into the car. For final assembly, I will combine them into one loom but for now, it works better to keep separate for disassembly for paint and finish.

Did the same thing to the other end of both at the control box on left side of under dash area.



Boom. Easy peasy extending harness to the control box in a better place to withstand elements. Since the car will be driven, I have to plan on the possibility of rain and wet and this seemed the best course of action for me.
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Old 08-10-2018, 11:51 AM   #144 (permalink)
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I think I got more done yesterday than the entire summer. Hooked up ignition for the coyote controls pack (blue to start position of switch, pulled the RF blues off as they won’t be used, green with the RF orange on ignition switch, red to the two reds with RF on switch, ground to ground). Hooked up the fuel pump relay out from the controls pack to the fuel pump. But I have to redo that. I want it to go through the inertia switch and kick the relay in the RF instead. I’ll do that next week. Hooked up fan and ran main power to the controls pack black box. I put the fuse for it near the battery. All in all, I think the wiring is done (save for the fuel pump change).

Pic or two but I’ll put more up next update. Not much to see other than more and more wires.

My crimp and heat shrink job

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Old 08-14-2018, 07:33 PM   #145 (permalink)
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Today I fixed the fuel pump supply wiring. Using the ford controls pack to trip the relay in the Ron Francis panel. That will also supply the power to the pump. This allows the inertia switch to still work. The output for the pump is the unshrinkwrapped connection in this photo. The normal supply, I soldered a wire in to supply something else. Probably the power steering unit. The RF fan relay and supply also won’t be used (as the controls pack will control the fan) so it will supply probably my power windows.



Also did the cooling system today. I don’t like it. The lower is ok, not great. The upper and it’s curly que is terrible. I think I’ll be able to file off the locator peg on the coyote end and then rotate the ford connector up so it’s a short straight shot from the outlet to the radiator. That’s for another day though. Working towards starting it up at the moment. Buttoned up a few vac connections. Need a cap or two and a battery, and a coolant expansion tank (gotta figure out where to put it) and I think I’m ready!
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Old 08-17-2018, 09:55 PM   #146 (permalink)
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Lots of little stuff done today. Tried to mount a G75 battery. Didn’t work. Not even close. Just can’t get it in there and mr Tcollins way won’t work for me with the 3 link brace down there. So I picked up the odyssey and I’ll give it a shot. Everyone who has one says it does fine. And they will warranty it for 3 years.


Next on the list was to move the coolant sensor. I pulled it and repluggrd the spot FFR says to put it. My filter relocation bracket will put the oil pressure sensor in the way of using this spot. So, I used the small bleed in the motor outlet port and drilled and tapped it. A note about that spot. From the factory, that place is the high point of the system and bleeds back to the expansion tank. By changing ours to come off radiator, this spot gets plugged. And since there is a low enough place to allow a lute to form, it’s wuite common for these to vapor lock. This bleed almost has to be opened when filling and during first heat up to allow the air to purge and coolant to circulate correctly. I filled it today and let it purge and will unscrew it a couple times before and during first heat up.

Knocked it out from the back side with a pinch (it’s just a press fit in) and drilled and tapped (21/64” and 1/8 pipe threads).


Back in place with sensor loosely in and wire ran (had to extend it). I’ll add the wire to the harness loom on final assembly.



Next, I filed the square locating peg off the upper radiator hose connection so I could spin it around and make the upper look better. The peg goes into the wire receiving hole so I had to trim that out also since where I wanted it lined up with where the wire would fall. No sealing happens here, it seals on the smooth part that sticks out (the left side in pic). Then cut and reassembled hose. Ahh yes. Much better. Filled the systems with 50/50 (got 3.5 gallons in so far) and letting it sit.



No pic as it’s just there but temporarily mounted the FFR expansion tank with zip ties lol. I have an idea to tie that into the blower intercooler system I may try so I can do away with the expansion tank but That’s a ways off yet. If I can come up with a place for it, I’ll keep it. It won’t even close to fit by radiator like FFR says and sends a bracket for and I’m trying to keep the firewall clean.

So, hopefully Wednesday, I’ll fix the gas level sender seal issue, put some fuel in it, hook up the battery, prime and set fuel pressure and see if she’ll start. I have the trans cooler lines looped back to each other for now, and will need to fill it, so I may only run it for a minute, but I’m excited. After I get some trans fluid so I can fill that, I’ll run i and let it warm up to finalize coolant fill and check fan operation via the pcm.
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Old 08-18-2018, 02:32 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Water

I have found that the place that you put water temp sender is very good to let air out of engine when filling water first time.
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Old 08-19-2018, 12:27 AM   #148 (permalink)
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I have found that the place that you put water temp sender is very good to let air out of engine when filling water first time.
As I posted that is exactly what it’s for by design. It’s worth you mentioning again though as people have had problems by not venting here. From factory, it vents to the expansion tank (which runs under pressure) and naturally vents the system. Being as we plug it, you almost have to vent it here to get it to work right and not vapor lock.
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Old 08-23-2018, 08:54 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Maybe its just the picture, but it looks to me like your lower rad hose is going to chafe on the front coil springs.
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Old 08-24-2018, 10:45 AM   #150 (permalink)
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It’s not how it will be permanently, but it does clear them. It’s centered between them. I think I’m going to make a hard line for the final assembly (or a breeze hose) though, and a brace in that area, to prevent it even moving over and bumping them.
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