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Old 08-17-2017, 06:27 PM   #61 (permalink)
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No, I haven't. I need to! Thanks for the link, Paul! I looked for videos and threads but I admit my search skills are lacking. I do pprecoate that.
You should check out Eric Hansen's YouTube video series on the 33 HR doors. Just search 33 Hot Rod Door Install. It is a 5 part series. They are very informative.
Will do. Thanks!
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Old 08-18-2017, 05:57 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Unfortunately, the PhotoBucket ransom image has ruined a number of 33 build threads.

But, if you haven稚 seen it already, this build thread by Bill/Rumbles is worth a read.

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-fac...les-build.html

He even created a Build Journal for Kindle.

https://www.amazon.com/Car-Builder-J...vert-amazon-20

I know seeing how other people tackled their build really helped me get my kit (not a FFR) on the road.

Good luck, Paul.
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Old 08-19-2017, 02:16 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Paul, I had read through that thread (I think lol). I've tried to check out all threads I could all the way back to the beginning.

The Hansen videos where wonderful. Good guidance there.

Got the slots done in the jambs today. Got passenger door trimmed to fit into its opening and had to stop to help my pastor fix his wife's buggy. Bad dpfe hose. I'll post more pics and details when I get more done that just a little fiberglass sanding.
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Old 08-23-2017, 10:03 PM   #64 (permalink)
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More doors. Hey, that rhymes.

Got about 10 hours in the passenger door so far. It's close. The striker sits too deep and I may need to adjust the angle on it's plate. The latch is dragging on it. I will attempt to move the door forward some after I affix the rear plate better than the little screws. I've used a combination of FFR instructions and the members videos (thanks to all). Before I attempt to move the door, so it'll latch easier and open easier, I will have to take a little off the front. The rear gap should wind up perfect then.

Adjusting body panels really isn't my forte. Lol

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Old 09-06-2017, 09:19 PM   #65 (permalink)
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This passenger door is kicking my behind. But I think I'm on the right track now.

It kept binding on the striker when closed. So I did several things trying to get it right. Moved it forward, changed the rear depth, etc. to no avail. Finally I saw it was dropping when off the striker to the slack in the hinge bushings. Well that ain't right. After lots of work, I finally realized that it was sitting on the bottom, and that was making everything out of whack. So I took some off the bottom edge and now it finally lines up and opens and closes without a problem. I haven't reinstalled the latch yet, but I will adjust it to fit the door on the proper place instead of trying to get the door on the right place by adjusting the latch. If that makes sense. Finally, it works like it's supposed to swing! Now to install the striker and then trim it to the correct gaps. I'll install latch tomorrow but I won't trim it until I blow it up to finish it.

Pic but can't really see anything different than before.

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Old 09-07-2017, 06:39 PM   #66 (permalink)
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GOT IT!

Hah. Finally. After getting the door working right without the striker, I had to remove the built on washer from the striker and make a bushing to push it 3/8" out. Then I had to lengthen the slots in the striker plate, mainly on the bottom. Once I did that, I was able to get it to strike just right. Works like a dream now.


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Old 09-08-2017, 12:57 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Looks like you are working very hard to get it right.. I would strongly suggest that the car be sitting on the suspension before going too much farther. The chassis does flex and will mess up your gaps. I know from my own experience. Please be cautious because proper body lines and door fitment are a make or break on finished product.
When I did mine I had jack stands under rear axle and front tires on ramps to simulate vehicle sitting on ground only at working height.

Neal
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Old 09-08-2017, 01:54 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice, Neal.

For now, I have the gaps very very tight. In fact, one spot it rubs when I open the door. I will take your advice and set it on the suspension for final gapping and adjustment. I want to have the motor and trans in it when I do that though so the suspension is loaded close to like it will be when final. I'll do that right before I blow it up to finish. Thanks!
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:14 PM   #69 (permalink)
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After many hours learning on passenger door, driver was a lot easier. I had to drill new holes in the striker plate and make a spacer for the striker also. It's still not latching all the way, but it might be the spacer is a shade too long and the striker head is hitting something. I got tired of messing with it today though so I'll check that out Friday. And I put the top on just to see what it looks like. Cocky!! I may end up leaving the top on more than off!




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Old 09-15-2017, 08:46 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Got the drivers door dialed in. Had to trim a shade off the spacer I made for the striker. Works wonderfully now. I have a lot more work to do (start installing power windows, door handles, etc) but taking a break from doors. I threw the striker and hinge trim panels in. And moved on to the back. I drew out the lights, to make sure sizes are right. What's your opinion (see photo)? 9" hagan teardrops and 4" ovals where the stock ones would go for then signals. I've already cut those spots out to fill them flush to the back. Waiting on my resin to get here to start patching. I'm thinking I want red tear drops and orange turn signals but unsure how that'll look. I am not a fan of white or clear rear lights, but that's not out of the warrior (with colored led's instead). Or would you to red lens for them all?

Started trimming the trunk opening. Nothing magical there.




I sure am glad I don't have the motor and trans in it yet. I've spent quite a bit of time sitting in that hole.
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Old 09-16-2017, 08:13 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Whilst not a '33, there is a guy in the UK who has a vaguely similar rear light set up on his old Ford.



Hope that helps, Paul.
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Old 09-16-2017, 12:48 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Thanks, Paul, actually it does give me an idea. I wasn't sure how the two colors would look on the (probably) yellow body but that does help.
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Old 09-16-2017, 04:52 PM   #73 (permalink)
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I like the teardrop much better, but we are all different, so go with your heart!
the long ones.
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Old 09-20-2017, 09:17 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Not much done today. Fitting the trunk. No pics there, just sanding fiberglass.

I did make a decision on the lights. I?ll be going with only the teardrops. However, in them I will have 3 strips of led?s. One 9? strip will be brake lights only. I am gonna try (after talking to hagan) to add a second 9? strip in each side. That one will be running lights and turn signals using the high/low toggle input. The brake light strip will be high only. The other option is a 9?, a 6? and a 4?. Each with its own function. 9 is brakes, 6 is park and 4 is signals. I may not know if it?ll work until it?s in and wired but there will still be time to change my mind if it doesn?t. Oh, last option is 9? low is park, high is brake, and figure out how to add a small, maybe 1157 size led, to the bottom of the rear drop for a signal. Any of those 3 options would keep them all in one teardrop.
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Old 09-21-2017, 08:05 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Two days off work is nice.

Got trunk all fit. Got latch and cable installed and trunk aluminum in. And release. I feel like I should do something different with it but undecided yet. Maybe a popper and button where the release is? I have time to think about that. I do have to adjust it a little. Had to quit so that?ll be next week. Overall, nothing astonishing yet. The prop rod I?m not fond of so considering options to replace it also.

Set the top on and marked so I can figure out gas cap. I?d like to use a hagan with the box and lid and all. We?ll see when I decide to tackle sorting it out. And had to have some fun while the top was on.



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Old 09-26-2017, 05:56 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Today I got the trunk latching right. And moved up front. Decided to get the firewall to body bolt rivnuts in. Found out my screws ain?t long enough. So waiting on those to get body back in right place before working on the hood. Meanwhile, the trunk doesn?t fit quite right. When latched and flush in center, the outside corner are high. (See pic). How do I fix that?

Until my correct bolts get here, I?m just degreasing fiberglass.


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Old 09-26-2017, 09:05 PM   #77 (permalink)
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I did set the top on to get it out my way on floor. And hood since that?s next after I get body bolted back up. Put it in its own (temporary) feet so it?s sitting right to fit the hood. I?m really thinking it?ll spend more time with top on than off.

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Old 09-27-2017, 11:37 AM   #78 (permalink)
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I did set the top on to get it out my way on floor. And hood since that?s next after I get body bolted back up. Put it in its own (temporary) feet so it?s sitting right to fit the hood. I?m really thinking it?ll spend more time with top on than off.

I like the look with the hood on better too. maybe install a (cloth) sun-roof???

Robert
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Old 09-27-2017, 02:55 PM   #79 (permalink)
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I did set the top on to get it out my way on floor. And hood since that?s next after I get body bolted back up. Put it in its own (temporary) feet so it?s sitting right to fit the hood. I?m really thinking it?ll spend more time with top on than off.

I like the look with the hood on better too. maybe install a (cloth) sun-roof???

Robert
Good idea! Maybe even a glass sunroof!

Thanks, Robert!
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Old 09-27-2017, 03:13 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Good idea! Maybe even a glass sunroof!

Thanks, Robert!
THere is a company called "sliding Rag tops" I think...
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Old 09-29-2017, 07:10 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Good idea! Maybe even a glass sunroof!

Thanks, Robert!
THere is a company called "sliding Rag tops" I think...
I?ll check that out too. I?m leaning towards removable glass top at the moment though. But first, I have to figure out why the top is way lopsided. I was setting up to fit the hood and the whole car looked low on driver side. I know it wasn?t on the stands and was checked several times. So I got to measuring. Everything on the body was square, straight and level. The top itself was off by a bit. It took me nearly 1/4? of shims to get the passenger side up to look right.

Anyway, fit the front of the hood and worked on back. No pics now.

I had a friend of mine who is a long time body man and car builder come give me advice on making the firewall fit better. I explained my idea and he shot me down. He said it would never stay in place and would chance cracking over time if there is any twist in that area. Even with quality resin, he has concerns. After seeing how much I could move the body around when the firewall wasn?t connected, I decided he is right. It might work for a show car but, although I intend it to be show car quality build, I will be driving it. He suggested just trimming the aluminum to fit even all the way around and let it ride like that. So there we go.
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Old 10-05-2017, 05:38 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Finished getting the hood to fit today. The nose cone is way long but wanted input before I took to grinding off excess. Everything is placed according to the manual but see how long it is? The radiator is no closer to the front suspension bolts than the manual says, in fact, prolly further away.

I rolled it outside and made sure the slope from the cowl to the grill is right. Once the low spot on the cowl is filled, and the hood slump in the middle is taken out, it should be perfect. Also glasses in the taillight holes. I?ll have to add a layer or two more I think but that?ll be easy.



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Old 11-04-2017, 11:56 AM   #83 (permalink)
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I ain?t quit or gave up. Working a lot of overtime, I plus many days spent in doctors office (had a heart scare but they thinking it?s a hernia now, heart is A-ok). I don?t think I?ll get much time until after the holidays.
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Old 12-01-2017, 01:27 AM   #84 (permalink)
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No pics today. But I ground out some of the glass filling my tail light holes. It wasn稚 adhered well in some places so I fixed that. Refilled it with some tricks I learned. Then I marked wheee to trim the doors to set the gaps and yanked them off. Drivers door was trimmed wrong at the front and back so I made a dam and filled that in the make up the difference. I値l have some to add on the outside once I get it cured and turned over then I値l trim it to fit and set gaps. I have some mistakes to fill around the arms to fix also so just touching up all that stuff. Ill post pics next week maybe when I get back out there again.
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Old 01-15-2018, 08:25 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Ok. Life should be getting back to normal. I started this transition by demodding my 5.0 mustang. The 2.9L whipple will be used on the 33. I ordered my coyote with 6r80 package earlier this week, along with a return fuel system. 4-8 weeks delivery!

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Old 01-16-2018, 07:01 PM   #86 (permalink)
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I assume that you've researched the size of the case and the gear ratios. The 6R80 will undoubtedly require frame mods and may cramp the interior of the car.

The gear ratios are odd, with 4.17 first gear. These transmissions were a joint design effort with GM. My 2014 Corvette has one, coupled with a 2.56 rear end gear, to make first gear reasonable, even for a significantly heavier car.

If you could lock out first gear, you'd have a 5 speed with a 2.34 ratio to start and a top gear that's nearly identical to a 4 speed at .69.

With a lot of power in a light car, the 6 speed is a waste of space and money.
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:45 AM   #87 (permalink)
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Yeah, Dave. I知 going to do about the same thing. A tall rear gear with a tall tire will cancel out the very low first gear and temper it some. As far as the size, the measurements I found show the bell housing area to be not much larger than the 4r70. The 6r80 ia bulkier but not much bigger in diameter at the motor. It値l require a larger tunnel but not much larger up front. Best word I get is that it should fit in the frame but will be very close around the pan. Some slight modifications may be necessary there but should be close close. Either way, it should be a kick in the butt stoplight to stoplight with that low of a first, but with nice tall gearing, it should be comfy on the interstate.

Plus, I want true control. Places like performance automatic have great tools to make the 4r70 work, it痴 still not as seamless and perfectly acting as factory calibrations. Having it all controlled by the ford computer will give me absolute and complete control when I tune it.

FWIW, the vette used the 6L80, not the 6R80. While similar, there are some significant internal differences.
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Old 01-24-2018, 07:18 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Ok, I think life is settled and can get back on the hot rod! Today, I smoothed the glass I filled taillights with and prepped it for body filler. One more hole I want to glass in but I値l do next time i mix some up. Also settle gaps on passenger door and reinstalled it. Drivers door I have some material roads and finish getting it ready. I started working on the hood hinge and latch but didn稚 finish so I値l put pics of that later.


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Old 01-26-2018, 02:27 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Hood hinges and latch today. I must say. We always swapped from a prop rod to shocks on the mustangs. First time I ever saw a hood that needs both! Lol. Definitely an, umm, interesting solution for a neat final operation. Still gotta put the pin receivers in but I gotta get a new hole saw. I might go with something prettier for final build though.

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Old 02-07-2018, 08:13 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Today just cleaning up some things. Drilled the holes for the top in the back. I put some large washers in when I put the rivnuts so it値l hold better for my liking. I値l glass them up a little more when I take the body off and flip it. Filled a little more on the door front and back since I took too much off when I trimmed it lol. Also trimmed the hood so it clears to open. But I hate the way it fits at the corners now at the grill. See photo. I値l have to figure out some way to fill that hold. Maybe fill it with the side panel (or trim panel if I decide to ditch the sides for good)

Tomorrow morning, I go pick up the motor/trans/eve/harness.




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