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-   -   33 LS1/T56 Build (https://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-factory-five-33-hot-rod-forum-sponsored-e-t-wheels/593609-33-ls1-t56-build.html)

S13 02-22-2017 05:49 PM

33 LS1/T56 Build
 
*Update* Starting bodywork. Need advice, please help!. See post #155.

Hello everyone! Long time lurker on the forum, finally have started my own build. The car is a Factory Five 33 Hot Rod kit which will be powered by a GM LS1,T56 transmission, and Ford 8.8 three link rear end. Here is a video describing the details of the project and I will be vlogging the entire build of the car. Please subscribe to the Youtube channel to see the build progress. There is also pictures of the build on my Instagram @dizzymarcus. I will also be posting the new videos here. Let me know what you think, thanks!



S13 02-22-2017 05:49 PM


S13 02-26-2017 05:46 PM


Wakeboardnsd 02-26-2017 07:24 PM

I think something is wrong with the YouTube link. I can't open it

S13 02-28-2017 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wakeboardnsd (Post 5640625)
I think something is wrong with the YouTube link. I can't open it

Is it working now?

Wakeboardnsd 02-28-2017 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S13 (Post 5643394)
Is it working now?



It's probably my phone. I'll try it again tonight on the computer. Really just lurking here. Still trying to convince the wife we need a 33

progmgr 03-01-2017 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by S13 (Post 5643394)
Is it working now?

Sorry, not working for me either - Chrome browser FWIW.

S13 03-06-2017 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by progmgr (Post 5643794)
Sorry, not working for me either - Chrome browser FWIW.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wakeboardnsd (Post 5643410)
It's probably my phone. I'll try it again tonight on the computer. Really just lurking here. Still trying to convince the wife we need a 33

I think I have it properly embedded now. It shows up for me when I use Chrome and Safari. Let me know if its working for you? Thanks!

S13 03-06-2017 05:31 AM


sread 03-06-2017 02:37 PM

great job hosers! subscribed ! - but I suspect there will be some here that may not appreciate your colorful commentary........:beerchug::beerchug::beerchug::

progmgr 03-06-2017 11:14 PM

Working great with IE, will try later with Chrome browser. Great videos! Glad to see mine is not the only build with a profane running commentary.
Keith

daveS53 03-07-2017 12:54 PM

With a powder coated chassis, I'd think that most builders would only put the car together once, but I see rusted and bare metal parts being installed, that will later have to be removed for paint or powder coat.

I built my '37 Oze twice. The first time with no paint anywhere, just to test the car, since it came with plenty of suspension problems. Not everything was operational, but it was tagged and titled. After 1200 miles of testing driving, I finished the extensive body work, then tore the whole thing down for paint and reassembly. That last phase took about 1500 hours.

S13 03-07-2017 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by progmgr (Post 5649658)
Working great with IE, will try later with Chrome browser. Great videos! Glad to see mine is not the only build with a profane running commentary.
Keith

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveS53 (Post 5650193)
With a powder coated chassis, I'd think that most builders would only put the car together once, but I see rusted and bare metal parts being installed, that will later have to be removed for paint or powder coat.

I built my '37 Oze twice. The first time with no paint anywhere, just to test the car, since it came with plenty of suspension problems. Not everything was operational, but it was tagged and titled. After 1200 miles of testing driving, I finished the extensive body work, then tore the whole thing down for paint and reassembly. That last phase took about 1500 hours.

Yes the car will be getting taken apart to paint and powder coat a bunch of things before final assembly. In hindsight getting the frame powder coated at the factory was a mistake. You'll see in a future video why. I am going to have to re-powdercoat the frame haha.

S13 03-11-2017 04:21 PM


Tim Whittaker 03-11-2017 09:18 PM

Certainly applaud your efforts on the video. I would however, caution builders watching the series to keep in mind that you really need to search different build pages and ready as many posts as you can before you start. There are many, many facets of the build that are not totally correct or not adequately covered in the manual. You can build the car using the manual but you WILL run into problems and the end result will not be as high a quality build that it could be avoiding various steps in the manual.

As an example, the firewall passenger footbox can be ever so slightly modified to avoid grinding a bunch of material off the upper firewall, passenger side, to get the body to fit correctly.

I hope I'm not offending anyone, but I build and supply custom parts for this car and get calls monthly for orders and those that have been here for awhile know they can call 24/7 and get help with their build or just BS about their build. Having said that, some builders have more experience than others and I get many calls monthly from those less experienced asking questions. I am more than happy to do so but mention this because the conversation always leads to areas of the build that are either lacking or simply not totally correct in the manual. Interestingly, the conversations usually follow the same outline because many problems are common to every build and not covered in the manual.

I'm simply saying if you build per the manual your car will have errors built into it that can be avoided with some research. That said, your efforts are appreciated. Videos that enhance the manual such as Erik Hansens Door fit videos are extremely helpful to new builders. At the end of the day, we are all in this together and just want our cars completed and completed to the highest level we can achieve.

Again, I mean no harm or disrespect.

Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley Customs

S13 03-11-2017 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Whittaker (Post 5655290)
Certainly applaud your efforts on the video. I would however, caution builders watching the series to keep in mind that you really need to search different build pages and ready as many posts as you can before you start. There are many, many facets of the build that are not totally correct or not adequately covered in the manual. You can build the car using the manual but you WILL run into problems and the end result will not be as high a quality build that it could be avoiding various steps in the manual.

As an example, the firewall passenger footbox can be ever so slightly modified to avoid grinding a bunch of material off the upper firewall, passenger side, to get the body to fit correctly.

I hope I'm not offending anyone, but I build and supply custom parts for this car and get calls monthly for orders and those that have been here for awhile know they can call 24/7 and get help with their build or just BS about their build. Having said that, some builders have more experience than others and I get many calls monthly from those less experienced asking questions. I am more than happy to do so but mention this because the conversation always leads to areas of the build that are either lacking or simply not totally correct in the manual. Interestingly, the conversations usually follow the same outline because many problems are common to every build and not covered in the manual.

I'm simply saying if you build per the manual your car will have errors built into it that can be avoided with some research. That said, your efforts are appreciated. Videos that enhance the manual such as Erik Hansens Door fit videos are extremely helpful to new builders. At the end of the day, we are all in this together and just want our cars completed and completed to the highest level we can achieve.

Again, I mean no harm or disrespect.

Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley Customs

Thanks for the input. Yes these videos are more just a general guide of the build process. There are countless hours of research, testing, trial and error that the videos do not include for entertainment purposes. These videos should just be one small element of the research process before attempting a build like this.

Tim Whittaker 03-11-2017 11:27 PM

The thing about it is that you can go back and edit as you go too.

I have built several airplanes and there are people out there doing the same in that arena as well. It is a real good tool for the first time builder. Erik Hansons videos have help many, many builders and it's appreciated by everyone.

At the end of the day, I hope you end up with something similar for the basic build. I know the guys will appreciate yours as well.

Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley Customs

Barrel 03-12-2017 06:22 AM

[QUOTE=Tim Whittaker;5655290]Certainly applaud your efforts on the video. I would however, caution builders watching the series to keep in mind that you really need to search different build pages and ready as many posts as you can before you start. There are many, many facets of the build that are not totally correct or not adequately covered in the manual.

As an example, the firewall passenger footbox can be ever so slightly modified to avoid grinding a bunch of material off the upper firewall, passenger side, to get the body to fit correctly.



Thank you Tim for this timely post. Can I say that if that mod. is not made to the passenger footbox, and instead the builder grinds a bunch of material off the upper firewall, the body will, as a consequence of that never fit correctly. The laser cut firewall sets the correct height for the f/glass cowl and notching the footbox allows the body to be lifted up to sit on top of the firewall and thus be symmetrically in line with the driver's side. Otherwise it will always droop to the passenger side.

Tim Whittaker 03-12-2017 05:59 PM

thanks Barrel. I believe you were one of the first to follow the advice on my post back in 2010 or something like that. I have tried to relate all similar issues to builders when they call to order or just BS about their build. that one simple fix corrects several issues with the firewall and the side to side leveling of the body.

A dozen or so issues that all will face are not covered in the manual. Hell, FFR won't even admit to most of them and will suggest not doing what Barrel outlined above. The beauty of the FFR is that you have a blank canvas to start with but the kit does have a number of areas that need improvement. Unfortunately, it is left to the builder to sort out.

Tim Whittaker

S13 03-12-2017 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Whittaker (Post 5655762)
thanks Barrel. I believe you were one of the first to follow the advice on my post back in 2010 or something like that. I have tried to relate all similar issues to builders when they call to order or just BS about their build. that one simple fix corrects several issues with the firewall and the side to side leveling of the body.

A dozen or so issues that all will face are not covered in the manual. Hell, FFR won't even admit to most of them and will suggest not doing what Barrel outlined above. The beauty of the FFR is that you have a blank canvas to start with but the kit does have a number of areas that need improvement. Unfortunately, it is left to the builder to sort out.

Tim Whittaker

I am confused what modification you are suggesting. Do you have a link to your original post or more info?

Tim Whittaker 03-12-2017 09:35 PM

No link to it that I have. do a search on firewall trimming or using my name, if I remember the post was titled " I wish I had found this sooner" or something to that effect. You and anyone else for that matter, are welcome to call and I can continue the outline I have given to dozens of other builders.

Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley Customs

Barrel 03-13-2017 01:03 AM

http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...ps115fa665.jpgHere is a picture of the modification. This notch has been lengthened by 1/4 inch so that the forward protruding f/glass arm of the body can be lifted enough so that the lip on the body's cowl can rest on top of the laser cut firewall, and thus side to side symmetry is achieved. You will need to pack a spacer strip under the f/glass door sill as well but that is easy too. NB. My car is right hand drive.

Buck70 03-13-2017 01:51 AM

composite
 
[QUOTE=Barrel;5656258 You will need to pack a spacer strip under the f/glass door sill as well but that is easy too. [/QUOTE]

I cut a 1/4" X 1 1/4" strip of composite decking material that I had laying around and bonded it to the body where it would normally sit on the pass side chassis bar. The pvc material won't be drawing moisture and causing the chassis to rust and it props the body up to the proper height for the cowl.

There are a lot of 33's out there that didn't have the cowl leveled and when you look at a finished car from the front they really look wonky that way. The majority of the grilles have crooked bars in them too so add that to the front visual and it's really screwy but hard to figure out what's wrong at a glance.
DB
Hemi33

1932 03-13-2017 02:08 AM

Yes, i had to do both to get body right.

Barrel 03-13-2017 09:05 AM

There are a lot of 33's out there that didn't have the cowl leveled and when you look at a finished car from the front they really look wonky that way. The majority of the grilles have crooked bars in them too so add that to the front visual and it's really screwy but hard to figure out what's wrong at a glance.
DB
Hemi33[/QUOTE]

And here is a view of a crooked grille and the the newer replacement grille we needed to purchase to get past this problem.
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3a95ff99.jpg

Tim Whittaker 03-13-2017 01:20 PM

I believe they have a new a new "Chinaman" doing the grills and that has been addressed.

No matter what you do, the gap around the firewall sheet metal and the fiberglass in that area will not be uniform because the two sides of the body glass are not the same. You can see with the naked eye that the radius of the top of the cowl is not the same on the left as it is the right. The radius on the drivers side is more acute. Not to mention the body mold line is 1/2" higher on the drivers side. Yes, 1/2". So basically, the body is dramatically different on the left side compared to the right side. I wasn't really stunned that FFR poured money into the steel body rather than make the glass one right. They are in the business of selling kits and slow to correct production issues if they are corrected at all.

Once again though, they provide an excellent canvas to do whatever you want with the build.
You'd be hard pressed to find a better chassis to use as a platform as well. At the end of the day, it is what it is unless you want to spend countless hours making the body symmetrical. Sadly, it would have taken a similar amount of man hours to make the mold right to begin with.

S13 03-15-2017 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barrel (Post 5656258)
http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/...ps115fa665.jpgHere is a picture of the modification. This notch has been lengthened by 1/4 inch so that the forward protruding f/glass arm of the body can be lifted enough so that the lip on the body's cowl can rest on top of the laser cut firewall, and thus side to side symmetry is achieved. You will need to pack a spacer strip under the f/glass door sill as well but that is easy too. NB. My car is right hand drive.

I will definitely notch that before I put the body on, thanks!

S13 03-15-2017 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim Whittaker (Post 5656690)
I believe they have a new a new "Chinaman" doing the grills and that has been addressed.

No matter what you do, the gap around the firewall sheet metal and the fiberglass in that area will not be uniform because the two sides of the body glass are not the same. You can see with the naked eye that the radius of the top of the cowl is not the same on the left as it is the right. The radius on the drivers side is more acute. Not to mention the body mold line is 1/2" higher on the drivers side. Yes, 1/2". So basically, the body is dramatically different on the left side compared to the right side. I wasn't really stunned that FFR poured money into the steel body rather than make the glass one right. They are in the business of selling kits and slow to correct production issues if they are corrected at all.

Once again though, they provide an excellent canvas to do whatever you want with the build.
You'd be hard pressed to find a better chassis to use as a platform as well. At the end of the day, it is what it is unless you want to spend countless hours making the body symmetrical. Sadly, it would have taken a similar amount of man hours to make the mold right to begin with.

So what would you recommend for where I am at in my stage of the build? I will be doing the notch. Will I also have to raise the passenger side? Body work is definitely not my forte haha

Also any more suggestions are more than welcome!

Tim Whittaker 03-15-2017 07:08 PM

The best way to cover this is with a phone call. There are just too many area to cover that need correction in this post.

Anyone is welcome to call with questions on their build. I'm usually here.

Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley Customs

S13 03-17-2017 07:47 PM



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