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Old 12-01-2017, 11:49 PM   #151 (permalink)
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That's helpful, thanks. Makes visualizing it easier for sure. The alt hanging low like that makes me wonder where the power steering motor is going to end up. Isn't that the typical mounting location for it?
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Old 12-02-2017, 12:52 PM   #152 (permalink)
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That's helpful, thanks. Makes visualizing it easier for sure. The alt hanging low like that makes me wonder where the power steering motor is going to end up. Isn't that the typical mounting location for it?
No, the electric steering assist actually bolts to the frame, further back. You should be able to find pics of the installation in some of the build threads.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...r-ElectraSteer

Last edited by daveS53; 12-02-2017 at 01:00 PM..
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Old 12-15-2017, 05:34 PM   #153 (permalink)
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You guys aren't filling me with a lot of hope, I just got my 6.0 LQ4 today and have been digging for a few months on which brackets and pulley setups to use. Seems like the corvette is the must have for depth but the brackets put the AC and the ALT way up high and to the sides which has me concerned about fit up top at that point. Thoughts? Go with a CTS_V and sacrifice the depth for the smaller and lower brackets?
If were to do it over again I would try a Corvette balancer and this bracket/compressor: https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1660
I think that would give the best chance of fitting a low mount compressor. No promises though! haha.

If you're up for making your own brackets check this out this email I got from Donnie:

What's up.. Here's the pics I promised.. These are the brackets that I made out of some flat steel.. Cut it with a sawsall and grinder and lined up the pulleys with a cheap craftsman laser level and tacked in place then finished welded.. I pretty much copied the Alan Grove top pivot bracket first and then made the lowers which have a only a little adjustment for the belt(Dayco 5040350).. It's tight but I think it'll work fine.. Some other guys on the forum have done similar stuff.. Any questions, let me know.. And thanks again for your videos.. They've helped me out as I'm moving at a much slower pace than you on my build.. Been two years this month.. Cheers.. Donnie









Thanks Donnie!

Slowly getting back into the build:

Last edited by S13; 12-15-2017 at 05:42 PM..
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Old 12-20-2017, 05:29 PM   #154 (permalink)
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HELP!!!
Question for anyone who has installed the F5 supplied Vintage Air conditioning kit: How did you route the AC lines to the condenser? It does not show a good picture in the instructions. It seems like they want you to route it above the lower control arm and below the steering tie rod. That dosent seem like a good idea to me. If anyone has a pic or a description of how the routed their hoses that would be great! This is how I mocked mine up but not sure if I will be able to access the service port on the high pressure side (red) once the body is on:


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Old 01-07-2018, 06:58 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Body Work Is Beginning

So the content has been lacking lately, mostly because it is time to begin the body work and I have no experience with paint/body work. Im planing on doing a flat black or satin black finish. Any input would be appreciated! I have been reading other threads and doing some research on paint prep in general it seems like a lot of people on this forum like the Evercoat filler products so I think I am going to use those. So far Im thinking my steps with the body work will be:
Step 1: Wash body with Comet/water mix and Scotchbright pads followed by clean body with wax/silicon/grease remover.
Step 2: Grind down mould parting lines with DA sander.
Step 3: I have seen some threads where people go right to filler, others grind out seams to remove any gelcoat and fill with a short strand fibreglass filler. What should I do?
Step 4: Fill the ground down seams with Evercoat Rage Gold filler.
Step 5: Block down filler and panels with guide coat to reveal any lowspots/imperfections, repeat as necessary.
Step 6: Fill and pinholes with glazing filler, sand as necessary.
Step 7: Spray body with Evercoat Slick Sand polyester high build primer. Block sand and repeat as necessary.
Step 8: Spray with a sealer or epoxy primer? Not sure, please advise.
Step 9: Single stage paint or base coat/ clear coat.


Here are some pics of where I sanded down the parting lines to mount the hard top. Do I have to go deeper to remove all the gelcoat from the lines?



Also went to mount the engine side covers and the front brake flex lines interfere. How did everyone get the brake lines to fit the side covers?

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Old 01-07-2018, 09:28 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Your first pic shows a depression at the parting line that looks black, indicating original gel coat in the depression. That has to go, but you don't have to use a large sanding block and sand down a big area. Try folding up some 60-80 grit paper to create a narrow edge and only sand into the depression. You can expose pinholes anywhere you've exposed the fiberglass, so blow out the seams with an air hose to be sure that dust isn't trapped in the pinholes. There is no point in sanding deeply and applying reinforced filler. Reinforced filler is intended for applications deeper than 1/8". All that's needed is ordinary filler. I really like Eastwood's stainless steel applicators so I can really press the filler in hard on the first swipes, to push into any pinholes.

I've never used guide coat during the sanding of body filler, only after some primer has been applied. The polyester filler is the key to avoiding any read-through of the seams. Note that fiberglass and gel coat are both hard and sand slow, while filler is soft and sands easily. Don't keep sanding long after touching the surrounding fiberglass, or you'll sand the filler too low.

I like using epoxy primer after the polyester. It can be applied as a sealer, an hour before the final urethane, or much earlier and sanded just before final coats. It take epoxy about 3 days to cure enough for dry sanding.

The only issue I have with flat or satin black (or clear) is that it's delicate. Once you spray it, you're done. If you get a scratch, there's no good way to fix it. If you rub on the paint very much, with anything, it will start to shine a little.

I painted my entire headliner, dash and inner door panels, not covered with upholstery in flat black. It's worked out OK so far. I painted the interior with a deliberately grainy texture than resembles leather. I didn't thin the paint and used both a lower pressure and larger spraying distance to create this effect.

With regard to the AC service fittings, they don't have to be placed at the compressor. Mine are both at the firewall. I mounted my drier to the firewall and put the service fitting there. My low pressure fitting is also at the firewall. On my car, one was too close to the exhaust manifold and the other was too close to the frame, at the compressor. I used braided stainless hoses, except under the dash.
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Old 01-08-2018, 02:58 AM   #157 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply Dave! So ill have to sand down the parting lines more to get rid of the gelcoat in the parting line but I can then apply filler directly over the exposed fibreglass and the scuffed up gel coat around the parting line, correct?
Initially before doing any research I though doing a flat colour would be easier than a gloss but have since found out it is actually more difficult for the reasons you stated!
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Old 01-08-2018, 04:27 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Using flat or satin paint does eliminate the time consuming and messy job of color sanding and buffing. It's also a job that requires skill to avoid sanding through clear coats and knowing when to switch from 1000 to 1500 to 2000 and 2500 grits. I found that anything coarser than 2000 grit scratches would never come out. You can have a shiny buffed surface with a few big long scratches left. When I had that problem, I found that I to wipe the area with naptha to remove any traces of buffing compound before sanding the scratches with 2500 grit. 2500 grit scratches will buff out quickly.

I the old days of lacquer paint all you did was remove most of the orange peel with 600 grit and then buff with compounds that were much coarser and cut quickly. The new compounds seem to cut incredibly slow.

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Old 01-12-2018, 11:42 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53 View Post
Your first pic shows a depression at the parting line that looks black, indicating original gel coat in the depression. That has to go, but you don't have to use a large sanding block and sand down a big area. Try folding up some 60-80 grit paper to create a narrow edge and only sand into the depression....
After sanding down the parting lines what grits of sandpaper are you using to sand the filler and gelcoat to get ready for the polyester primer?
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:15 PM   #160 (permalink)
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It's common to use 80 grit to scuff up large areas of the gel coat. I may go coarser in areas where I know that I need to use filler. Just be sure to scuff all of the gel coat in the area that you're working first, because you don't want filler spread out over any slick gel coat.

When working filler, there is no single process that's right or wrong. Some people slop it on heavy and use 40 grit or a body file for the initial sanding. I try to apply filler a little more sparingly and use 60 grit to start, then on to 80 and 120. If you don't get enough filler on the first time, lightly rough the area with 80 grit before applying more. Never apply more filler over unsanded filler.

The instructions for polyester primer say you can go down to 220 grit before priming.
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Old 01-17-2018, 12:54 PM   #161 (permalink)
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The key when working with Gelcoat is to make ssure that you dont have any shine left. If you do there may still be some mold release agents still on the surface and even though it may stick now it will release later which would suck. I agree that breaking the surface with 60-80 grit paper is the right thing to do. Also bondo or fillers will adhere "well" to Gelcoat however if you really want to do a real good job grind out with a Dremmel the cavity area to get the Gelcoat shine out and apply Gelcoat to that area. One note however, if the depth of the groove is greater than an 1/8" then you should fill the area with a mixture of resin and fiberglass fiber. You can tear off strands from some fiberglass mat, mix it with resin and fill the area, messy but once you do it you will find the trick. Let set and harden, smooth and grind then apply the gelcoat to that area. Some may say use bondo or equivalent (as long as it has very good elastic properties) at that point and that's fine. key is to make sure that any filling of crevices are as strong or stronger than the original laminate.
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Old 02-06-2018, 10:56 PM   #162 (permalink)
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I started sanding down the seams on the body. These are both on the line on the body in front of the drivers door. part of it seemed to sand down good with no gelcoat in the seam. The other part(circle in red) you can see pinholes with gelcoat below fibreglass. Am I supposed to keep sanding through?


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Old 02-07-2018, 12:29 AM   #163 (permalink)
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Use a dremel tool with a small ball shaped burr bit to rough up each hole, clear to the bottom. After that, just fill with body filler or glazing putty, pressing firmly to fill all of the holes.

The filler does not require great strength, since the full thickness fiberglass layup should be below the repair. If there is a question about strength, it should be fixed with fiberglass applied to the back side. You can't get glass fibers into small holes.

Also, there is never a need to apply gel coat to make a repair to a car body. That's only needed on boats with gel coat finish.
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:19 AM   #164 (permalink)
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Use a dremel tool with a small ball shaped burr bit to rough up each hole, clear to the bottom. After that, just fill with body filler or glazing putty, pressing firmly to fill all of the holes.

The filler does not require great strength, since the full thickness fiberglass layup should be below the repair. If there is a question about strength, it should be fixed with fiberglass applied to the back side. You can't get glass fibers into small holes.

Also, there is never a need to apply gel coat to make a repair to a car body. That's only needed on boats with gel coat finish.
So I should be more worried about getting a good surface inside those holes for the filler to attach to instead of trying to get all of the gelcoat out of the fibreglass? If I am I understanding this correctly?
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Old 02-07-2018, 01:46 AM   #165 (permalink)
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Yes, grinding too deep may remove fiberglass. A little removed won't hurt, but there's no need for deep gouging.
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Old 02-11-2018, 02:36 PM   #166 (permalink)
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Unfortunately I haven't been working on the car this weekend
I have been revamping my 5hp 60gallon Sanborn air compressor. Im adding an aftercoooler, water traps, filters and regulators to my system. getting it ready to spray paint/primer. Here is a question for anyone who has painted their car. How much primer/paint will I need to buy? Obviously the primer will depend how many times I apply and block sand but what would be a good starting point? Same question for the paint, I'm leaning towards a single stage satin black at the moment. Here is the video of the air compressor if anyone happens to be interested in that:
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Old 03-03-2018, 06:19 AM   #167 (permalink)
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S13 - I'm not the best person to advice on paint, as I made a bit of a mess of my own car.

However, I did learn two lessons the hard way:

- There are no short cuts to preparing the surface for paint and the more effort you put in, the better it will look.

- If there is any doubt about how much paint you will need then over order a single batch.

I needed to get a little more BRG and the second batch was a slightly different shade to the first.
Which meant I then had to order a larger third batch to get the same shade all over.

Finally, unless you want to win prizes at shows, don't lose sleep if you can't achieve perfection.

I know where all the faults in my paintwork are, but everyone else just sees a 'cool' car.

Good luck, Paul.
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Old 03-18-2018, 03:22 AM   #168 (permalink)
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Old 03-19-2018, 12:41 PM   #169 (permalink)
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I wish European garages were that size!!

Jealous
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Old 03-22-2018, 06:05 PM   #170 (permalink)
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I wish European garages were that size!!

Jealous
My garage is 24' x 24' and right outside I have a 30'x30' parking pad. I constantly wish it was bigger for more tools! haha
What size is yours in Europe? Id be curious what the smallest garage one of these was ever built in.
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:32 PM   #171 (permalink)
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lol, a lot of garages in UK are barely bigger than what we call a "compact' (fullsize in UK) - think like a mini cooper plus a foot either side..
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Old 03-23-2018, 10:22 AM   #172 (permalink)
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My garage is 24' x 24' and right outside I have a 30'x30' parking pad. I constantly wish it was bigger for more tools! haha
What size is yours in Europe? Id be curious what the smallest garage one of these was ever built in.
My Garage is 7x3m (or 21 x 10ft) which is a big garage here in Netherlands!
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Old 03-23-2018, 10:29 AM   #173 (permalink)
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Garage
too easy

[QUOTE=S13;5958362] I constantly wish it was bigger for more tools! /QUOTE]

IDK
Seems like there's plenty of "tools" in your garage


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Duckin and runnin for the door>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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Old 03-23-2018, 11:33 AM   #174 (permalink)
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There was a german guy who build it in an even smaller garage, but he couldn't get it registered...
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Old 03-23-2018, 07:08 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Apologies for the slight thread hi-jack…

Quote:
Originally Posted by roadracer View Post
lol, a lot of garages in UK are barely bigger than what we call a "compact' (fullsize in UK) - think like a mini cooper plus a foot either side..
Only if you mean a classic mini cooper, not the current ones.

The garage attached to my 1930s house was approx. 7 feet wide x 14 feet long.



Which was ideal for motorcycle, but not much good for a car unless it was something like this.



Cheers, Paul.
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:32 PM   #176 (permalink)
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[quote=Buck70;5958866]
Quote:
Originally Posted by S13 View Post
I constantly wish it was bigger for more tools! /QUOTE]

IDK
Seems like there's plenty of "tools" in your garage


Dale
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lol I walked right into that one!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Apologies for the slight thread hi-jack…


Only if you mean a classic mini cooper, not the current ones.

The garage attached to my 1930s house was approx. 7 feet wide x 14 feet long.




Cheers, Paul.
What is this, a garage for ants?? It needs to be at least three times as big!
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Old 03-23-2018, 11:10 PM   #177 (permalink)
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...What is this, a garage for ants?? It needs to be at least three times as big!...
The only thing worse than the size of my garage is that I waited until after it was remodelled to provide more family space before deciding I was going to build a kit car, which forced me to work outside instead!



Although in fairness, my house was built in the 1930s, when a car was still a luxury for most people and having a garage was considered quite modern.

Finally, you may have a bit more space to go around over there, than we have over here.

Canada
- Size of country > 3.8 million miles squared
- Size of population > 36 million

UK
- Size of country < 0.1 million miles squared
- Size of population > 65 million

Anyway, getting back on track, I’ll really looking forward to your build coming together.

Good luck, Paul.

PS
Not sure if you’ve seen my build thread, but lots more examples of stupid decision making here:
https://www.ffcars.com/forums/146-oth...based-kit.html
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:33 AM   #178 (permalink)
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Just chiming in as a Canadian. Your garage is 98 sq ft. My garden shed is 120 sq ft. Only problem is there is over 2 ft of snow in my back yard and I haven't been in my shed since early December. Could be June before it ALL MELTS. We have no choice here, we have to work inside.

That being said, we rarely have tornadoes, and never have hurricanes.
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Old 03-31-2018, 03:38 PM   #179 (permalink)
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This is my first attempt at painting/body-work so any comments or suggestions appreciated!

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Old 03-31-2018, 10:40 PM   #180 (permalink)
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I have seen many previous builders section the chin (nosecone) because it was too wide to fit around the grill properly. Did you check the fit of this piece? I would be pleasantly surprised if FFR fixed this longstanding issue.

BTW, what is your kit's serial number? (I have #894 - just wondering if yours is newer or older than mine.)

Keith
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