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Old 08-13-2017, 09:11 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Let me start off by saying I have the utmost respect for you Tim, for all the helpful info you provide to this community and I look forward to buying some of your parts to install on my car. With that being said, Sread is right. It may not be the norm on the forum here which is fine, but I am not offended. In some of my other videos(they may be the non car related ones) we joke about my hair. I am not easily offended and am well aware my hair is ridiculous. Nicknames include: Kramer, Peacock, and Cockadoodle Rooster **** Head... Sread,I get a laugh out of them but perhaps though those comments are best left on Youtube comment section. This forum is great place for info and is nice to be on a car forum where the threads don't get totally derailed! haha

Back to the build though. Has anyone mounted the Kirkby low backs in a 33. Im thinking about bolting them directly to the frame through the floor. Not sure if I need the rear back support. Some have said you need it, others say it is dangerous if you get rear ended to have it. What should I do?
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:39 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Any low-back seat will be far more dangerous than padded high back seats with slots for shoulder harness straps. I chose to use safer high back seats and shoulder straps in my car because I don't want to whiplash my head into the hard fiberglass top of my car, or break my neck before my head hits the top.

All that said, I suppose it's safer than riding a motorcycle with no helmet. A lot of folks do that without a second thought.

When I was young I drove my turbocharged, Corvair powered VW beatle up to 140 with no seat belts. That wasn't real smart.
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Old 08-16-2017, 11:22 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Nice go-cart!!

I used 1/4" but someone else (SVT?) used 1/2" - he has his body so could measure it. So I guess it'll vary a little. 1/4" seems to be where everyone starts
Even though I measured it, now that body is on, 1/2" was a little too much. But I've also got other weird stuff going on. I put the spacer under the door on passenger side and got everything leveled and clamped down and firewall fitting well all around and looks great. Except the drivers side door sill is naturally sitting about a 1/2" off the 1.5x1.5 frame. I don't see any reason to try to fix this as everything else fits perfectly and is straight and square. Anyone see any problems in my future over this? The frame does not hand below the body.
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Old 08-17-2017, 03:39 AM   #124 (permalink)
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Old 08-17-2017, 04:33 PM   #125 (permalink)
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Thanks for the video on the hood but one question.

Why are the gas struts being put on if they will not keep the hood open? The only reason in the past I have had the gas struts was to keep the hood or a glass hatch back open. If you have to use a prop rod to keep it open why would the struts be needed? Seems like the hood would not be all that heavy to open it with out having the strut assist.


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Old 08-17-2017, 07:47 PM   #126 (permalink)
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The struts just lift the hood to disengage the pins at the firewall. They lift and push forward at the same time.

I have a hinge in the works that is much more simple and also keep the hood lifted in the open position. The new hinge will not require you drag the hood across the cowl when opening.
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Old 08-18-2017, 01:04 AM   #127 (permalink)
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Hey Tim, I never liked the prop rod for the hood. I look forward to seeing your hinge. Ang
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Old 08-19-2017, 02:44 AM   #128 (permalink)
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The struts just lift the hood to disengage the pins at the firewall. They lift and push forward at the same time.

I have a hinge in the works that is much more simple and also keep the hood lifted in the open position. The new hinge will not require you drag the hood across the cowl when opening.
Looking forward to seeing this!The stock one leaves quite a bit to be desired unfortunately... When I pop the latch for the hood the struts do not disengage it. I have to keep the latch pulled and lift on the hood to pop the front of the hood up. Has anyone else had this problem?
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Old 08-19-2017, 02:42 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Wow, tremendous effort to do these videos. Very good of you to do this. Great job! Subd
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Old 08-25-2017, 05:36 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Old 08-25-2017, 06:35 PM   #131 (permalink)
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I have a question for everyone. When you mount the windshield, is there supposed to be nuts on the studs on the end of the windshield on the curved part or the body? I don't see how you could tighten them down without damaging the fibreglass.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:17 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Old 09-07-2017, 03:20 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Check the striker and striker plate, mine was hitting the latch and wouldn't let the hood open on its own. I had to remove a little off the bottom and now it works like it should.

The windshield only gets nuts on the three center studs.

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Old 09-18-2017, 01:08 PM   #134 (permalink)
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Check the striker and striker plate, mine was hitting the latch and wouldn't let the hood open on its own. I had to remove a little off the bottom and now it works like it should.

The windshield only gets nuts on the three center studs.

CVOBill
Thanks, when I have the hood back on ill check that out!

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Old 09-25-2017, 05:42 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Old 10-01-2017, 11:33 PM   #136 (permalink)
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Old 10-03-2017, 01:12 PM   #137 (permalink)
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Hey Buddy,

What happened to your arm?
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Old 10-04-2017, 10:45 PM   #138 (permalink)
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Hey Buddy,

What happened to your arm?
Believe it or not, I got a dislocated elbow due to a crowdsurfing incident at a Rise Against concert haha.
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Old 10-05-2017, 05:47 AM   #139 (permalink)
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Ha Ha alright, I wouldn't expect anything less.
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Old 11-02-2017, 05:42 PM   #140 (permalink)
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Don't have a new video today but I have been doing a few little things to the car lately. The nice thing about my injury was that getting my car on the road before the snow this year became an unrealistic goal. So now I have time before next spring to not rush and take my time with the build.

There was a few issues with my hydraulic clutch setup. I had run a braided line from the hydraulic throwout bearing to my master cylinder. The braided line had a sharp 90 turn that I did not like and would be almost impossible to get at with the body on. I had drilled a hole through the transmission tunnel and ran the line through there. The problem with that is I am making my transmission tunnel removable and that would mean the line would have to be disconnected to remove the tunnel. There was also no clutch stop so I was worried about blowing out the throwout bearing.


I decided to make a hardline coming from the master cylinder that goes to a braided line that will be much easier to disconnect should need be. Used CoNi hardline for the first time and was very impressed, will definitely be my go to now for brake lines. It is now routed so that the tunnel can be removed without disconnecting the line. I fabricated a bracket that mounts to the frame and has an adjustable clutch stop to limit pedal travel. I also made a new bracket for my remote bleeder.






Last edited by S13; 11-04-2017 at 10:58 PM..
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Old 11-03-2017, 12:50 PM   #141 (permalink)
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Erm,... photos not showing up....Bucket thingy only
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Old 11-03-2017, 02:23 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Erm,... photos not showing up....Bucket thingy only

J33,

There is a post on the Hot Rod section of the other forum that will take care of the Photo bucket issue.


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Old 11-04-2017, 10:59 PM   #143 (permalink)
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Fixed the pictures, should be able to see them now!
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Old 11-16-2017, 12:09 AM   #144 (permalink)
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My friends plasma CNC table I was planing to use to make my AC compressor bracket is not working so I ordered a Vintage Air low mount LS bracket. As expected, it is a repackaged Alan Groove bracket. The instructions say Alan Groove on them. There was a bit of discussion a while back on this thread when I modified my frame that that bracket might fit a Sanden 508 compressor without any frame modification. I can say forsure now having it installed there is no way it would fit without modifying the frame, even with the CTSV pulleys there is just no way it would fit. Here is some pics of the compressor and bracket installed on my car:





I think if anyone is trying to do a low mount compressor on a LS you best bet might be this bracket/ compressor:

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1720

Not sure if it would fit without modifying the frame but looks pretty compact.
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Old 11-27-2017, 11:37 PM   #145 (permalink)
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Hi Mark.. I mounted a Sanden down low on my LS setup.. Made my own brackets, it's tight but I think it's gonna work.. Let me know your email and I'll send you some pics of how I did it.. I'm not technical enough to post them here..
PS.. Thanks for the great vids you post
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Old 11-28-2017, 01:56 AM   #146 (permalink)
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Hi Mark.. I mounted a Sanden down low on my LS setup.. Made my own brackets, it's tight but I think it's gonna work.. Let me know your email and I'll send you some pics of how I did it.. I'm not technical enough to post them here..
PS.. Thanks for the great vids you post
Whether a compressor will fit can depend on the engine chosen. This car has a Camaro pulley system that extends 3/4" further forward than a Corvette model would. Most current crate LS motors have the Corvette balancer and water pump.
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:32 AM   #147 (permalink)
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Hi Mark.. I mounted a Sanden down low on my LS setup.. Made my own brackets, it's tight but I think it's gonna work.. Let me know your email and I'll send you some pics of how I did it.. I'm not technical enough to post them here..
PS.. Thanks for the great vids you post
Ya please email me at: [email protected]
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Old 11-29-2017, 07:56 PM   #148 (permalink)
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Did a bit of work to the 33 this past weekend:

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Old 12-01-2017, 09:47 PM   #149 (permalink)
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You guys aren't filling me with a lot of hope, I just got my 6.0 LQ4 today and have been digging for a few months on which brackets and pulley setups to use. Seems like the corvette is the must have for depth but the brackets put the AC and the ALT way up high and to the sides which has me concerned about fit up top at that point. Thoughts? Go with a CTS_V and sacrifice the depth for the smaller and lower brackets?
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Old 12-01-2017, 11:01 PM   #150 (permalink)
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You guys aren't filling me with a lot of hope, I just got my 6.0 LQ4 today and have been digging for a few months on which brackets and pulley setups to use. Seems like the corvette is the must have for depth but the brackets put the AC and the ALT way up high and to the sides which has me concerned about fit up top at that point. Thoughts? Go with a CTS_V and sacrifice the depth for the smaller and lower brackets?
Check out posts 36 and 65 in this build log. The GM compressor barely fit with custom made brackets, but I believe that even a custom made bracket didn't allow the alternator to fit without some sort of mod to the offending lower tube.

https://www.ffcars.com/forums/120-fac...d-706-a-3.html

As I noted before, bumping out the offending tubes is not a proper solution. You might as well remove them entirely, since they no longer function as truss members.

Others have used accessory drives from March or Vintage air, that place the components further forward and up high. They cost a lot more than GM parts, since they include a new balancer, custom pulleys and aftermarket water pump.
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