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Old 05-09-2017, 06:38 PM   #61 (permalink)
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That is sometimes the case. The disadvantage to having a single flex hose in the center and hard lines running to the calipers, is the calipers can't be removed without disconnecting the hard lines and later bleeding the system. It also requires clamping the lines along the length of the axle housing and a tricky bend at the caliper.

I would always use a flex line at each caliper.
Good point, yes, thanks. I should have been clearer - hardline *almost* to the caliper, but a flex line to enable maintenance.
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:31 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Good point, yes, thanks. I should have been clearer - hardline *almost* to the caliper, but a flex line to enable maintenance.
I would never run a hard line along the rear axle either. This was common with drum brakes.
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Old 05-10-2017, 08:06 AM   #63 (permalink)
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As Dave mentioned the flex lines make maintenance on things like pads, rotors, axles, seals, etc... way easier. It would be a pain in the ass to have to bleed them anytime you need to move the calliper. I think the best option is how is similar to how I did it. Use the tee in the hardline kit and run the hardline along the frame but cut and flare the line so you don't have to loop it on that passenger side like it says in the manual. The universal flex lines and banjo bolts were pretty cheap so why not?
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Old 05-10-2017, 01:56 PM   #64 (permalink)
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hey hoser - now that you got the rear end all shiny and painted and reinstalled, you might want to check this out:

http://www.breezeautomotive.com/imag...stallation.pdf

though I can't quite put my finger on it, there is something about your mannerisms that leads me to believe you are the kind of guy who likes to engage in high rpm clutch drops on occasion.....

keep up the great vids - can't wait to see the test drives
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Old 05-10-2017, 04:04 PM   #65 (permalink)
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hey hoser - now that you got the rear end all shiny and painted and reinstalled, you might want to check this out:

http://www.breezeautomotive.com/imag...stallation.pdf

though I can't quite put my finger on it, there is something about your mannerisms that leads me to believe you are the kind of guy who likes to engage in high rpm clutch drops on occasion.....

keep up the great vids - can't wait to see the test drives

You're right buddy! I do love spinning the tires!
That is some great info, I had no idea the OD of the shaft changed. I am planning to eventually weld the axle tubes to the centre section and put some 9" ends on the 8.8. Welding the three link bracket then would probably be my best bet.

I have read a few times on here that the 3-link will fail if launched hard in these cars. Is this the common point of failure? I would love to see some pictures if anyone has some!

You and me both buddy, can't wait to drive this deathtrap!
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Old 05-11-2017, 03:57 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I would never run a hard line along the rear axle either. This was common with drum brakes.
Why not? As long as there are flexible hoses between the axle and the frame and the axle and the brake why would this be an issue?

Robert
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Old 05-11-2017, 06:42 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Why not? As long as there are flexible hoses between the axle and the frame and the axle and the brake why would this be an issue?

Robert
A general rule of thumb I like to use for plumbing is to have as few possible connections as possible. Having three flex lines and extra hard lines just ads complexity and more possible points for the system to leak or fail.

Just my two cents..
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:30 AM   #68 (permalink)
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I agree, every connection is a potential leak! But why use flexible hose on the frame?

flexible hoses ballon when pressure is applied to you loose braking efficiency. This is much less than in hard lines

Just wondering...
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Old 05-11-2017, 01:51 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Why not? As long as there are flexible hoses between the axle and the frame and the axle and the brake why would this be an issue?

Robert
For one thing it looks ugly and you have to figure out some way to anchor the brake lines along the axle tubes, including brackets to hold the transition fitting from hard line to flex hose. You also end up with three flex hoses instead of two. Use the least amount of flex hose you can.

Here's a video of the installation of some brake lines that can be purchased for my car. This SS brake line kit costs about $600. I'd toss all but the lines between the front wheels. These dummies used both 1/4 and 3/16 lines, which was not necessary, and a distribution block that was not needed. They also used steel tube nuts on stainless steel lines.


Last edited by daveS53; 05-11-2017 at 05:44 PM..
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:41 PM   #70 (permalink)
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I agree, every connection is a potential leak! But why use flexible hose on the frame?

flexible hoses ballon when pressure is applied to you loose braking efficiency. This is much less than in hard lines

Just wondering...
The only area I used flex lines are from the bulk heads on the frame to the callipers. Everything else is hardline. These flex lines are stainless braided hose and only 14" long so the effect on braking efficiency would be negligible.
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Old 05-14-2017, 05:32 AM   #71 (permalink)
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I think we all agree, hardline were-ever possible with the least amount of flex line and connections....

RJ
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Old 05-15-2017, 05:39 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Old 05-15-2017, 05:47 AM   #73 (permalink)
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I think we all agree, hardline were-ever possible with the least amount of flex line and connections....

RJ
Yes, that would be best. I think you might have thought where i teed off and ran to the passenger side along the frame that I used a flex line. It's actually a hardline, sorry the video may not have been very clear haha.
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Old 05-20-2017, 05:29 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Old 05-27-2017, 06:11 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Old 05-27-2017, 01:03 PM   #76 (permalink)
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You've got lots of room in front of the engine for an intake snorkel, compared to a real '33 or a car like my '37 Oze, where the engine is not set as far back. A silicone 90 cut as short as possible on my car touches the electric fan housing. What you don't have is much vertical height, like a real '33 would have.

More modern LS engines now use a blade-type MAF sensor that requires it to be mounted in the middle of a 6" length of 4" diameter straight tube. It's a 5 pin sensor that includes the intake air temperature sensor. So far, I haven't seen anyone manage to make a snorkel for this style of MAF sensor that fits under the hood and inside the hood sides, without using a tube that appears to be shorter than 6".


I think your setup will work, but you may need a shield for air filter.

Last edited by daveS53; 05-29-2017 at 12:56 PM..
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Old 05-28-2017, 01:54 PM   #77 (permalink)
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You've got lots of room in front of the engine for an intake snorkel, compared to a real '33 or a car like my '37 Oze, where the engine is not set as far back. A silicone 90 cut as short as possible on my car touches the electric fan housing. What you don't have is much vertical height, like a real '33 would have.

More modern LS engines now use a blade-type MAF sensor that requires it to be mounted in the middle of a 6" length of 4" straight tube. It's a 5 pin sensor that includes the intake air temperature sensor. So far, I haven't seen anyone manage to make a snorkel for this style of MAF sensor that fits under the hood and inside the hood sides, without using a tube that appears to be shorter than 6".


I think your setup will work, but you may need a shield for air filter.

Luckily I have the old style Maf so I don't think the short 90 will be too much of an issue (the stock coupler that came off the Camaro is 6" long). I don't see a way you would be able to fit that much straight tube in front of an LS inside all the stock body panels. I will probably end up building a heat shield eventually so it is sucking in cold air from the side of the engine bay (I'm not going to run engine side covers) instead of heated air from behind the rad. I will probably also build some type of support for the intake so there is no chance it can vibrate and hit a belt or anything else. I really need to buy a sheet metal brake!
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Old 05-29-2017, 01:19 AM   #78 (permalink)
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This works for me. Minimum distance on engine side and almost on inlet side (tube extends into filter a little. No error codes and plenty of power - a 2012 E-rod LS3 crate engine.
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Old 05-29-2017, 02:21 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Luckily I have the old style Maf so I don't think the short 90 will be too much of an issue (the stock coupler that came off the Camaro is 6" long). I don't see a way you would be able to fit that much straight tube in front of an LS inside all the stock body panels. I will probably end up building a heat shield eventually so it is sucking in cold air from the side of the engine bay (I'm not going to run engine side covers) instead of heated air from behind the rad. I will probably also build some type of support for the intake so there is no chance it can vibrate and hit a belt or anything else. I really need to buy a sheet metal brake!
I used two 90's a 6" section and a 4" section to route my air-cleaner to the driver side and built a small "air-box" to keep some of the radiator heat out. It fits inside the hood sides if I run them. I'll post a pic if I can find one.
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Old 05-29-2017, 04:32 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Glad I found this thread, first saw your thread on the Factory Five Forum(until it got locked) and started following you on YouTube, but it's nice to have a thread like this for a little more in depth discussion. Keep up the great work!
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Old 05-29-2017, 01:00 PM   #81 (permalink)
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This works for me. Minimum distance on engine side and almost on inlet side (tube extends into filter a little. No error codes and plenty of power - a 2012 E-rod LS3 crate engine.
Nice to have someone post a setup that works and isn't complicated.

What alternator setup did you use? I know that there is no power steering pump and probably no A/C.

Last edited by daveS53; 01-25-2018 at 11:20 PM..
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:10 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Glad I found this thread, first saw your thread on the Factory Five Forum(until it got locked) and started following you on YouTube, but it's nice to have a thread like this for a little more in depth discussion. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, I talked with the moderator and he said I can make a new thread over there without any swearing. I will eventually but just have been busy.

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I used two 90's a 6" section and a 4" section to route my air-cleaner to the driver side and built a small "air-box" to keep some of the radiator heat out. It fits inside the hood sides if I run them. I'll post a pic if I can find one.
Yes, please post a pic if you can. I would like to see it swell.
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Old 05-30-2017, 02:25 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Found some...
Overhead from before I built the 'air box'



From the Side.



DaveS53: I'm running a CTS-V alternator and mount, just had to take off an unused ear on the alternator to clear the suspension mounting tab. I managed to shoehorn in a Sanden 508 compressor on custom brackets to keep it close to the block and avoid modifying any frame.

Data
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Old 05-30-2017, 03:40 AM   #84 (permalink)
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DaveS53, here is a pic of the alternator, set up. Its low on driver's side.
I ended up ordering an alternator, pulley's and belt from "Water Thunder Performance" Water Thunder Performance, high performance airboat engines Palm Bay. So no AC on a boat. Its pretty clean looking. However, I did have to cut an unsed mounting boss on the alternator housing. It was hitting the mounting bracket for the upper control arm. A hack saw, a little elbow grease and a file to clean it up worked nicely.
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File Type: jpg IMG_1285.jpg (168.4 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1286.JPG (155.4 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1287.JPG (134.7 KB, 34 views)
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Old 05-30-2017, 04:55 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Found some...
running a CTS-V alternator and mount, just had to take off an unused ear on the alternator to clear the suspension mounting tab. I managed to shoehorn in a Sanden 508 compressor on custom brackets to keep it close to the block and avoid modifying any frame.

Data
Do you have any pics of your AC mount? I tried to flip my thermostat housing like you do but it hits the F body serpentine belt I have a straight one on order. I also had to cut that rear mount off my Fbody alternator. Unfortunately it is just as close to the suspension mount. I am worried when the engine bucks it might make contact. Have you run yours yet?

Last edited by S13; 05-30-2017 at 05:01 AM..
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:04 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Just curious why you didn't put the temp sensor in the 90 elbow or in the MAF sensor sleeve?

RJ
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Old 05-30-2017, 01:21 PM   #87 (permalink)
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In my case, I understand that the the temp sensor is part of the MAF assembly. The other connection you see is the recycle port for engine and fuel system fumes. . BTW, like Data, I ended up making an aluminum box to at least partially wall off the intake from hot air. My radiator overflow tank and assembly made a natural "wall" I used to get most of the air from the side and from the front where it goes around the side of the radiator. Pics attached, but hard to see it installed.

I also tried an arrangement where I put an additional elbow (where the filter is now) to turn everything back toward the firewall, close to the heads. Even though the sensor was in the same place it is now, the turbulence from the new elbow, caused the MAF to read erratically causing some roughness and a trouble light. Apparently the symmetrical pull through the conical air filter acts like a section of straight pipe from a turbulence standpoint and everything runs smooth.
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File Type: jpg IMG_4738.jpg (236.5 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4481.jpg (245.4 KB, 44 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4474.jpg (235.4 KB, 41 views)

Last edited by TigerBill; 05-30-2017 at 01:27 PM..
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Old 05-30-2017, 02:40 PM   #88 (permalink)
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DaveS53: I'm running a CTS-V alternator and mount, just had to take off an unused ear on the alternator to clear the suspension mounting tab. I managed to shoehorn in a Sanden 508 compressor on custom brackets to keep it close to the block and avoid modifying any frame.

Data
The CTS belt routing normally runs from the alternator to a power steering pump pulley. Without the power steering, it seems an idler pulley would still be needed, like TigerBill's setup. What did you use?
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Old 05-31-2017, 02:32 AM   #89 (permalink)
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I did use an idler. I replaced the standard idler with a ribbed one on the alternator mount and put the tensioner on the upper passenger side of the block, so belt goes under crank, around alternator, over ribbed idler, under water pump pulley, over tensioner and back to crank. I was a little worried about having the proper amount of wrap on each pulley but in 2,000 miles I haven't had any problems so I haven't redesigned it.



Although not nearly as nice looking as other guys' mounts, the best bet for my A/C compressor setup is just to look at my photobucket: Air Conditioning
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Old 05-31-2017, 03:03 PM   #90 (permalink)
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The links below show two sources for the CTS drive. With all of the components listed, it’s possible to avoid buying the power steering pump parts, but it may not save much money. The alternator alone is pricey.

Chevy 19299070: F-Body Style Accessory Drive System | JEGS

Chevrolet Performance Parts - 19299070 - GMPP Accessory Drive System Without A/C - Fits LS1 & LS6 Engines

This link is for the Alan Grove A/C mount kit that may work.

LS

If you decide that an additional idler in place of the power steering pump is needed, here is a source. That would allow the smooth idler from the CTS kit to be used.

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1677

The only thing missing is a GM part number for a ribbed idler pulley to use in place of the smooth pulley supplied with the CTS drive. The smooth pulley has two #6203 bearings in it, with 17mm ID and a reducer bushing, for a 10mm mounting bolt. Most ribbed pulleys that I’ve found have no reducer bushing and most also have only one bearing, but that is probably adequate when used as shown.

Last edited by daveS53; 06-05-2017 at 12:33 PM..
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