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Old 12-05-2016, 10:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Full Fender Installation Questions

Well it's been a while but I'm back at it.

I have searched hi and low. No where in the manual are their instructions on installing the full fenders and boards. There was no addendum shipped with the parts either so I m going by feel here.

I have them pinned in place and they line up great. My concern was first with the boards and them having no real support, but I think I have come up with a solution for that (though suggestions would be helpful)

Now my biggest concern has turned to the front fenders. Are they really just cantilevered off the side panels? What have you all done to support them? It would seem to me that they'd shake themselves to death!

Pics and suggestions please!!!
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowntubd View Post
I have searched hi and low. No where in the manual are their instructions on installing the full fenders and boards. There was no addendum shipped with the parts either so I m going by feel here.

Now my biggest concern has turned to the front fenders. Are they really just cantilevered off the side panels? What have you all done to support them? It would seem to me that they'd shake themselves to death!
Pics and suggestions please!!!
Nick

I found the same lack of direction so I took a common sense approach on installing my rear fenders.

The front of the back fender and the back of the running board are the fixed point that aligns the whole assembly for F-B location with the body so I drilled and bolted those to each other first. I then drilled and bolted the rear fender to the body at the point closest to that joint. I found that I needed the body strapped to the chassis and then I could jack up the back of the fender to push it up properly into the body pocket. I did that drilling one hole at a time working towards the back and pushing it forward a bit more with each fastener hole as I went. The front fenders are stronger than you would expect once they are fastened all the way around to the hood sides but a steel bracket under there wouldn't hurt so keep us posted IF you make something for that. I'm anxious to see the steel fenders once FF makes that option for the new body.
On the running board supports, there are a few variations shown in different threads on both boards so a search might give you a few ideas there.
I don't have a build thread so I put pictures of my supports in the gallery on both boards, I'm myjones on the other forum if you don't find my pics here.
The challenge to hiding any supports is the steel has to be less than 7/8" in section or it will show and may even be in danger of dragging since the FF height under the board at normal ride height is only 3.25" above the pavement. The ONLY steel I found that would hide and still carry a mans weight with the 12" extension beyond the chassis is 1/2" schedule (80) steel pipe. The brackets are tricky too because of the mufflers and exhaust that's
under the car where the support needs to terminate. My pics show one way to deal with the reaction forces of loading the pipes when the boards are stepped on.
HTH
Dale Berry
7liter Hemi33
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Old 12-06-2016, 05:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There are instructions, go to FFR 33 parts, fenders then top left instructions.
The only front bracing i have found is Cardifkid post #24.
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Old 12-06-2016, 07:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Having running boards only 3.25 inches off the ground sounds like a recipe for disaster.

I have extremely wide running boards on by fiberglass '37, but they are built sturdy enough to be stood on and they're bolted into the side of a conventional 2" x 6" steel frame, with a flange that's over 2" wide. I do not use the running boards as a step because they are painted, just like the rest of the car. Stepping out beyond the boards is a pain, but it's either that or figure out something protective to cover the boards with.

I would also expect to use some bondo to fill gaps between the rear fenders and body. Apply packaging tape to the fender and apply the bondo to the body, to create a perfect fit.

Last edited by daveS53; 12-06-2016 at 09:50 PM..
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Old 12-06-2016, 08:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Having running boards only 3.25 inches off the ground sounds like a recipe for disaster.
I agree;
That's why mine is up a bit farther than the FF specs; Most buyers don't realize the rb's hang 1.25 below the body line that's only at 4.5" above grade.

The 113" wheelbase adds to the pucker factor as well. Damage is un-avoidable

The other downside is that the UCA's are very short so when you change from the FF ride height your wheelbase is even further off and your instant center goes to the moon. Even the much longer LCA's get skewed when you change ride height but you do have a second hole on the torque box that helps correct that angle.

If you try the step over with the wide boards, around suicide doors that don't open very far and the high rocker and low roof you need to be a pretzel to pull off that maneuver. I plan to buy/or make rubrails like on a boat to protect the paint since I will be standing on my boards to wash the car.
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Old 12-07-2016, 10:32 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1932 View Post
There are instructions, go to FFR 33 parts, fenders then top left instructions.

The only front bracing i have found is Cardifkid post #24.


Thank you I found them.


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Old 12-07-2016, 07:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I too will be using the full fenders, dread the install but love the look. I was recommended by the factory at time of order that if I were to ever go fenderless , I should get extra hood sides so I could have a pair without fender bolt holes. It'll probably never happen though.
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I was reading a post that mentioned the method of bolting the rear fenders to the body, using nylock nuts on the inside. That may require two people and the removal of inner sheet metal or upholstery, to remove a fender.

On my project car I bonded 1/4-20 stainless steel nut plates to the fiberglass with JB weld epoxy. When that was done, I could mount the fenders with no help from anyone. The holes in the fenders can be oversize for some adjustment. Use stainless steel fender washers. Unlike rivnuts, there will be nothing protruding beyond the body to worry about.

On the front fenders, I used button head stainless bolts, with fender washers and put the heads on the inside of the hood side.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#nut-plates/=15hfhut
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Old 12-17-2016, 07:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Nice to see you back at it Nick.

Attached is a shot of the bracing we added to the front fenders. This stiffened it up quite a bit.33 front fender.jpg
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Old 12-18-2016, 10:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice to see you back at it Nick.

Attached is a shot of the bracing we added to the front fenders. This stiffened it up quite a bit.Attachment 278561
Kudos
Thanks for the picture, that is a very simple and effective way to do that.

Dale
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Old 12-22-2016, 11:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Love this


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Old 01-13-2017, 02:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Fender support

Nick: Call me! I have done a few and I am happy to walk you through. I will try and post some info on the forum also.
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