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Old 08-18-2016, 02:06 AM   #61 (permalink)
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Hi Dave
For a shifter I am going with the B&M Quicksliver shifter. There was not too many choices for the 4L70E trans. If I would have known then what I know now I think I would have gone with another trans. What kind of shifter arrangement did you have in mind ?
Tom
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Old 08-18-2016, 02:43 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Hi Dave
For a shifter I am going with the B&M Quicksliver shifter. There was not too many choices for the 4L70E trans. If I would have known then what I know now I think I would have gone with another trans. What kind of shifter arrangement did you have in mind ?
Tom
The quicksilver with it's cable connection may be the best answer, if it really pulls the correct amount of cable for each shift and the shift lever is an appropriate length.

I did a lot of looking, but it was back in 2013. All I saw was 3-speed shifters from most sources. I wanted a shifter with the proper 8" length shift arm for my car, so I picked a Lokar shifter for the 4L60E. I figured it couldn't be much different than the 4L65E I had (but I was wrong). The shifter is not a cable type. It came with a straight, 1/4 inch threaded rod to connect with the transmission. The newer transmissions have a large protrusion near the tail shaft that make a straight rod impossible to use. I had to create my own bent like a snake shift rod from much stronger 3/8" rod and weld short lengths of the 1/4" threaded rod to screw into the heim joints at
each end.

http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/shi...t-shifter.html

Careful measurements showed that the shifter had about 11% too much travel, so the lever arm on the shifter was shortened a little to produce the correct total travel. It was time consuming to make it work, so I don't recommend it to anyone unless they're prepared for the extra work.

The end result came out looking nice, but the shifter is also not intended for racing since it's not a ratchet type. I do have switches that permit electronic manual shifting of the trans. If I was serious about higher performance, I'd also look into modifying the performance mode program (calibration B) on the TCM. With the right program, you might just put your foot down and let the computer do all the work. I've also got a switch to change between calibrations A and B.


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Old 08-21-2016, 08:52 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the help today! looking at those back shock bolts in the battery picture i think they need to go from the front back or the bolts wont come out after the trunk is installed .you also might have to add a washer on the head or use shorter bolts.Yea i changed my front ones thanks again!
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Old 08-22-2016, 04:00 AM   #64 (permalink)
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I got the throttle mounted this weekend. It came out better then I though. I am sure glad I moved the brake peddle over an inch.
Tom
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Old 09-04-2016, 03:48 AM   #65 (permalink)
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A while ago a few people wanted me to post some photos of my AC compressor mount. I said I would when I took everything apart for paint.
I hope theses photos can help someone in there build.
Tom
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Old 09-04-2016, 07:59 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Very nice work on the compressor mount!

For those using the stock Corvette balancer, another option is from Alan Grove, it provides a mount for the popular Sanden style compresor. It works with a 500 or 700 series compressor.

LS

Alan only makes brackets from steel. The TIG welding is the best looking I've ever seen. I bought the first Corvette spaced model he made.
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Old 10-22-2016, 02:59 AM   #67 (permalink)
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I stopped by the painter today. Next week he is going to start spraying color. After four months of sanding he has got the body nice and flat and strait. Should have more body updates soon.
Tom
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Old 10-22-2016, 03:34 AM   #68 (permalink)
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I stopped by the painter today. Next week he is going to start spraying color. After four months of sanding he has got the body nice and flat and strait. Should have more body updates soon.
Tom
Four MONTHS??
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Old 10-22-2016, 04:38 AM   #69 (permalink)
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I guess if you don't mind having a body full of ripples you could spend a week and call it good. If you want a body that you can rub your hands on with your eyes close and have it feel flat it takes time.
Tom
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Old 10-22-2016, 08:06 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Big Foot
I guess if you don't mind having a body full of ripples you could spend a week and call it good. If you want a body that you can rub your hands on with your eyes close and have it feel flat it takes time.
Tom
You'll only know after the car is painted and the reflections you see in the paint aren't rippled or wavey. I look forward to the pics.
Cheers,
Neil.
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Old 10-22-2016, 03:29 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Looks that top is permanent on, would you please explain how this was done.
Thanks
tom
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:23 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Yes the top is permanent on. I did not give must trust to the rivnuts in the front of the hard top. Before I bolted the top on to the body I used 3M panel bonding adhesive (very good adhesive) between the hard top and the body. After the adhesive dried I came back and ground down a 1 inch wide groove 1/8 inch deep all the way around the top and body inside and out. I bonded 2 inch wide glass tape in the groove I made (two layers). There is very little bondo used on top of the new glass that was put down. The top now looks like it is part of the body. The painter put down three coats of skin coat on the body and was able to fill all the small imperfection I had. The photos I posted don't show how good this all came out. Stay tune for more photos. It should take about 6 weeks to have all the color and clear coats done.
Tom
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:47 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Neil
Even with just primer on the car you can sight down the body and there is not one ripple or wave. Prepping the body is everything for a good looking paint job. When I dropped the body off at the painter. He showed me how to check the body. He walked me over to the body and had me close me eyes and rub my hand down on the body. I could not believe how right he was. You could feel every little bump ,ripple ,wave in the body. This car will look good one foot away not 20 feet like some of the builders here on the form have settled with.
Cheers
Tom
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Old 10-23-2016, 11:09 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Can't wait to see the car back from paint.. Thanks for the pics of the A/C mount, nice job..
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Old 10-23-2016, 01:49 PM   #75 (permalink)
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I like how it looks and the top will stay on! Could you please post some pics. I am not a top off person and was thinking about this.
Thanks
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:06 PM   #76 (permalink)
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I did not take any photos when I was doing the glass work bonding the top on the body. When I go out to the painter this coming week I will take some close up photos. for you.
Tom
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:04 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Thanks pics will be good.
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Old 12-06-2016, 01:28 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Dan Ruth is your man for this fix. I just bolted my wheeels on last night and they fit right in the center of my fenders.
I too have the same parts from Dan - but have yet to order my wheels.

Can you share your wheel and tire info in detail... ie size, offset or backspace,
brand etc.
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Old 12-06-2016, 02:40 PM   #79 (permalink)
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This car will look good one foot away not 20 feet like some of the builders here on the form have settled with.

Mee-Oww....

Good looking car though, love the full-on coupe look.
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Old 12-06-2016, 05:18 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Thanks Mike. I hope to get the body back from paint very soon. Painting is a very slow process. I had to steal the hood from the painter to fit the intake system. Will have photos soon.
Tom
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Old 12-09-2016, 01:53 AM   #81 (permalink)
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I finally got color on the body now. I got a text last night from the painter with a couple photos. So today I had to stop by and see for myself. The last two photos I tried to take really close. The second to last photo I think I was maybe a foot away looking across the front windshield. The last photo was taken about 6 to 9 inches away looking across the back. The top looks like it was made part of the body. Soon I will be able to take some photos out in the sun light. There is a lot of pearl in the paint.
Tom
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File Type: jpg Hot Rod 170.jpg (243.0 KB, 122 views)
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:02 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Wow

Tom
That looks great
love the color and the top being smoothed in like that.
I'm going to have to make the trip to Huntington Beach next year
to see that in person.
Dale
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:28 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Dale
I am hoping to have in on the road by next summer.
But it would be nice if I could make Huntington Beach .
Tom
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:49 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Wow, that looks really good! Nice job blending the top on.
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:30 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Thank you Jayguy.
I should have more photos in about 10 days.
Tom
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Old 12-10-2016, 09:27 PM   #86 (permalink)
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WOW! Let me say that again backwards... WOW!


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Old 12-11-2016, 12:14 AM   #87 (permalink)
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I will admit that it looks very nice - especially as a fixed coupe...
But man, 6 months in body/paint alone would be a killer for most people that have budgets..
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Old 12-11-2016, 01:17 AM   #88 (permalink)
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Thanks Randy

I was told in the beginning that all builds would not be the same. Some people have a budget for a rattle can paint. Some people prefer to up grade a little bit. I guess some people are just happy to complete the build as it comes but others are happy to produce the best example of what this great kit offers. I myself wanted to do a build that people would notice going down the road.
Tom
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:24 AM   #89 (permalink)
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It looks good in pictures here - for a fiberglass kit car...

Good luck on the show circuits.. I think I'll go shake my rattle cans now...
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:42 PM   #90 (permalink)
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I will admit that it looks very nice - especially as a fixed coupe...
But man, 6 months in body/paint alone would be a killer for most people that have budgets..
The number of months that it takes a shop to complete a job does not necessarily correlate to any specific number of labor hours. Just one person working full time would be 960 hours. I doubt that much time was spent. Hot Rod shops in my area charge $65 an hour for their time.

If I chose to build a '33 as my next project car, I'd bond the top onto the car too.

I can't say that I love to do body work, but I have the skills to do it. My project car had a horrible body. I probably spent 500 hours prepping the body for paint and another 200 painting, color sanding and buffing. The finished product is quite a bit better than the fit and finish on my black 2014 Corvette, but it's still a driver, not a show car. From what I've seen the FF '33 would take far less work to prep for paint.

The car looks great - keep up the good work.

Last edited by daveS53; 12-11-2016 at 10:09 PM..
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