Factory Five Racing Forum banner

Stack's HotRod Build Page

74K views 292 replies 63 participants last post by  sread 
#1 ·
Well the parts are adding up quick I figured I would get started on my Build page.

Here is the motor. It is from a 94/95 Lincoln MKVIII. This was left over NOS from ford. It has a build date of 8/94 so not sure which model year it is from. I drained the oil and began teardown of the uneeded parts. This engine has never been fired.




More to come

stack
 
See less See more
2
#93 ·
I've been kicking around engine color for a few weeks and it looks like a medium grey, Ford blue, or the ever popular silver remain on the list. It's hard to find a DOHC that's not silver. Arrowhead is one of the few that have tried something different, his motor looks good in yellow. :sneaky2:

I just did some grinding on the transmission, that thing had some edges that were as sharp as a hacksaw. It's gonna be med grey for certain.

Looks nice. :smoke:
 
#94 ·
No pics tonight but I did get the engine off the stand and installed the backing plate and flywheel. I did not have any brake cleaner to clean the flywheel, clutch and pressureplate. I had some other stuff but the directions from ford racing say use brake cleaner. I also need to get some mouning bolts for the trans. I currently have 8.8 bolts but I am not sure if those are recomended. Will check on that tonight. Engine will go in tomorrow.

stack
 
#96 ·
Looks great Stack! A word of caution with the rattle can paint (or any paint), as I did the same with mine. ATF fluid, and brake fluid will take that paint right off. It happened to me after I had mine in and it was looking all pretty.

So the trans rebuild wasn't that bad? How hard on a scale of 1 - 10 would you rate it? I think my 3650 is going to need this - I have not run it yet, but it has been giving me a slow leak at the front seal...which is why I cautioned about the paint. Did you need any special tools for the teardown and rebuild?

Scott
 
#98 ·
A thing of beauty!! Just a beautiful job stack. Love the attention to detail.

Must be driving Randy crazy...I mean a Ford engine in a rod??? :)

cheers :beer:
c
 
#99 ·
the Trans was not that difficult to tear down and rebuild. I qould recommend you take lots of pics as you do it because the service manual is in black and white and the pics are not the greatest. My problem is that I took two of them apart and the inside were different. Took lots of time to get things back in the right place. As for the leak are talking about a leak at the input shaft or bell housing? I would have to look but I think the input shaft is put on from the outside. The bell housing is part of the trans and if that is leaking the whole thing needs to come apart.

Special tools, are not really needed unless you are replacing gears or bearings. I would just inspect them. You need snap ring pliers, and a 5/32 punch. Also a pulley removal tool will help get the 5th gear assembly off as 1 piece.

Randy Fastenal is where I plan on going. How is vacation?

stack
 
#100 · (Edited)
Engine is in

I was able to get the engine in tonight with the help of a couple friends. It was alot of work to get it installed and I hope it never needs to come out. There are a couple problems that I can forsee and will make a seperate post about those.

Engine is a 4.6 DOHC from a 94 Lincoln. I got it as a left over so it is new never run. The transmission is a Tremec 3650 spec from 99-04 mustangs.









See my other post on problems that came up and more pics here. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211283

stack
 
#101 ·
Engine to come back out

Well have to pull the engine again. I don't think there is any way to get the engine and trans in with the water plug on the back of the head. Problem is the motor will need to move forward 1/2 inch or so to allow the trans to tilt down and bolt to the mount. My water plug measures 1 3/4 inches. More info on that click here http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211283



Here is a pick of the transmission with the tunnel installed. You can see ther transmission need to drop down in the back and it just can't with the water plug installed. If we move the engine forward then we may have problems later with the exhaust. So what to do.


I am going to check into using the top ports on both heads and plug the one on the back.


Also where is ride height measured in the front of the car. With the shocks all the way down I measure around 6"



More later

stack
 
#102 ·
Engine is Back Out

Took the engine back out this afternoon. I then removed the water plug for the heater and checked it out. There is no way to modify the existing plug. Also the bolt paterns on the left and right head are also different. Not sure if just ordering 96 mustang units will work even though they do not stick out as far. may need to plug the holes and use the ones on top of the head.




One idea I had was since I am having a intake manifold custom made I could have the guy make the mounting surface of the intake large enouge to cover the 2 water jacket holes on the rear of the head. Then drill them out and tap for 8an and run my own hoses to the heater. I can add a temp sensor to it as well. let me know your thoughts.

stack
 
#103 ·
Stack, if you're talking about pulling the coolant out of the spots indicated below Evenflow already makes stuff that may work. As you know the system has a tendency to develop air pockets which has killed a bunch of #7/8 cylinders. I lost a ring land and valve guide from the early 03 Cobra heads and NOT having a cooling mod of some sort. So far I've had 3 Mach1's with no issues but they all have/had some sort of cooling mod installed.

APS has produced some custom installs also. :icon18:

This is the link to the custom installs/requests.
http://www.evenflowcooling.com/Custom.html


 
#105 · (Edited)
Engine is back in again

Got alot done on the car today. stopped by the machine shop today and picked up a freeze plug for the back of the passenger side head. Also contacted evenflow for their cooling mod. Talked to them for a little while and explained the situation. We came up with several different ideas to make things work. I will post the info when we decide on one.

Here is the engine with the freeze plug installed. I used a 1.5" that I picked up at the machine shop.

Also was able the reinstall the engine, run the battery cable, bend up the rear brake line and install the valve. Things are starting to come together.





The engine is not perfectly level but I do not have the car at ride height. Once the new wheels go on I am sure things will level out. having a 28" wheel in the back will help.



stack
 
#106 ·
Wow, you had a good day. I've had real good experience using Evenflow for some cooling mods that were not standard. They did a great job on some stuff for my twin turbo car. :D

I can't wait to see what they work up for you.
 
#107 ·
Tonight I worked on some misc. things. Still having problems with the trans tunnel. For some reason it does not want to fit over the trans and then the alum on the passenger side. I took a pic of the problem. Looks like the cover is hitting the transmission on the inside. might need to cut a hole and make a bump. I am not sure if the auto cover is any larger or not. Will contact F5 on that.


Installed engine ground cable. I connected this from the frame engine mount bolts to the poly mount on the engine block. I try to hide this stuff as much as possible.


Brake bias adjuster will come up through the floor on the trunk for adjustment.

Ordered my fuel lines. I decided to go with the Russel blue hose stuff. I have used braided before and thought I would give this stuff a try. Should get it in by the end of the week.

I also heard from the guy building my intake manifold. Sounds like he is getting started on it this week.

stack
 
#112 ·
Tonight I worked on some misc. things. Still having problems with the trans tunnel. For some reason it does not want to fit over the trans and then the alum on the passenger side. I took a pic of the problem. Looks like the cover is hitting the transmission on the inside. might need to cut a hole and make a bump. I am not sure if the auto cover is any larger or not. Will contact F5 on that.

stack
I also had some difficulty with the tunnels. I tried both the auto and manual versions and really could not see any difference in clearance at any of the critical locations. Neither one of them fit the angles at the firewall and the flanges did not sit flat on the floor. Neither of them cleared my Lokar AOD shifter linkage, either. I settled on using the manual tunnel, but I cut all the flanges off and reglassed them in place, flat on the floor. I also hacked out the side and made a blister about 6 inches high and 18" long on the left side (for the shifter) and carved out a space for the gas pedal and my foot in the bellhousing area. I'll try to get some photos tomorrow. Oh yes, I had to widen the flange on the driver side to cover the edge of the floor.
 
#108 ·
Clutch cable placement. I ran the clutch cable through the driver side engine mount. This kept it away from the header and it has a nice bend to it. I also removed the silver mounting bracket as it was in the way and not needed.



Solinoid and fuel pump cut off switch mounting locations. This is not like the manual, but I am saving room for the heat and AC system



stack
 
#109 ·
I did not get to much done tonight. I did paint the inner door frames and some brackets. I installed the radiator mounting brackets as well. A heads up for those powder coating parts that plan to leave the engine exposed, send out these brackets with your other stuff. I was to lazy to send them out so I just painted them. Would have prefered to have them to match the frame but I am out of that paint.



I ordered tons of parts today to finish the fuel system and an Odessey battery. Will get plenty done this weekend

stack
 
#110 ·
Worked on the fuel system today. I used Russell Blue hose with push on fittings. Well they do not push on easily that is for sure. I ran the feed and return lines along the passenger side lower square tube.

Also installed the Odessey battery and mouning bracket.



Mike Everson's fan shroud is a really nice piece and looks good with chrome powder coat.

Front Grill mounted


May work on the wiring tomorrow

stack
 
#111 · (Edited)
Well I drilled a hole in the firewall for the efi and sending unit wiring. The wiring was not long enough to go around and I wanted to get it done before installation of the fiberglass transmission tunnel. I think the hole will work out fine as you will not see it once the intake manifold is in place. The wires will also be hidden in the valley between the heads. I will install a gromet later.



I mounted the passenger door frame when Randy J. was over showing me his Lotus. Must say that is one sweet car. The door opens and closes really well. Just need the doors from FFR now.

stack
 
#113 ·
The Gen1 cooling mod adapters came in today from evenflowcooling. They are stainless steel and press in. This will help with the drivers side head cooling issues and allow me to run a heater as I have blocked off the ports on the rear of the passenger side head. I used a socket and a long extension to beat them into the holes. I also used a dab of RTV on them to make sure they stay put and don't leak.

The two ports will tie together and then run throught the heater core and back to the rear of the pump.


stack
 
#114 ·
That should do the trick for cooling. My cooling mod came in today too but your post reminded me I need to call Evenflow to order a fitting for my water temp sensor. It will be for the gauge because I hate using tee fittings. :cool:

 
#115 ·
Wheels are Here

Well 3 out of 4 anyway. Had to stay home from work this morning to meet the FedEx driver. They took one of my wheels off the truck last night for some reason. He will bring it back tomorrow. Here they are





stack
 
#118 ·
Have to wait for the tires. I will reinstall the body and double check the fit. May need to move my rear brake line mounting bracket as the stainless hose is close to the wheel and may hit the valve stem. Valve stem is on the inside.

stack
 
#119 ·
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top