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Power steering pump controller installed and working

16K views 107 replies 29 participants last post by  eeeny 
#1 ·
#3 ·
Looks like a pretty trick set-up! Are you anywhere close to go-karting so you can see what the feel and speed of the steering is like?

PS---I'd say you might as well list all of the components you used for this, as well as how much you're going to charge for your pump controller, so we can all get in line!
 
#5 ·
NICE!! Yep, put my headphones on and I could hear the pump speed and slow to the speed of the wheel.... Man, this is so awesome!!

Shane, hopefully I will have this all installed in a month or so. I need to collect a list of parts I need (hint hint) :) and I'll get her installed and working. I have my rack, will get my pump this week, and need to order some small bits like he hydro fittings and hose etc.

Im doing this control arm project to get the 5 or so degrees of caster I think Im going to need with the power steering.

David
 
#7 ·
it can use the abs, or FFR reluctor wheel or a signal from the PCM.

Front Left abs was convenient for me.

I made 30 pcbs.
Total cost of board is about $30 (with chip, components etc).

you guys'll have to box the board yourselves, any project box will be ok, prob. about $5-$10. Clear plastic may be good to see what the lights are doing ;-)


I just need to fit my shift cables and get the car aligned, then I can go-kart it.

I think Dave B. may be the 1st to have it working on the road/highway.
 
#8 ·
Richard, the video file is quite large, maybe you need to wait longer? or try a different computer.


kbentzel,
unfortunately, this circuit will only work (as is) with the toyota MR2 spyder PS pump, as it's using the controller in the pump to do the actual PWM speed control of the motor. I did write a version that output a PWM control signal, but you would have to add your own power transistors to handle the heavy current of the motor. Which also means heatkinking them etc.

when I received my PS pump, I only then discovered that I wouldn't need to drive the motor directly, which made the project a bit easier.

Ian
 
#9 · (Edited)
plumbin parts list

Here is what you need to order to get the same setup as me:

mustang rack AN6 adapter set from breeze automotive #70516

High pressure side:
6" of aeroquipe teflon AN6 braided hose (blue or silver) rated to 2500psi ( funnily enough, it's actually thinner than regular AN6 tubing).
rack end: AN6 45 degree hose connector, these are special for the teflon, they are steel, not anodized ali.

pump end: AN6 90 degree hose connector, these are special for the teflon, they are steel, not anodized ali.

adapter for pump HP port: aeroquip M16 to AN6 adapter with O-ring on base.


Low pressure side:
1ft AN6 braided line (not teflon)
45 degree AN6 hose end fitting (your choice of pretty colors)
6" of 3/8" black oil hose
double barbed straight thru connector 3/8"
three small hose clamps for 3/8" hose



For the elctrical, I soldered to the PS pump terminals, and fitted generic metripack connectors, then gooped up the PS connector housing with slicone. You could try to find a toyota pigtail, which would be nicer.

Ian
 
#38 · (Edited)
Here is what you need to order to get the same setup as me:

mustang rack AN6 adapter set from breeze automotive #70516

High pressure side:
6" of aeroquipe teflon AN6 braided hose (blue or silver) rated to 2500psi ( funnily enough, it's actually thinner than regular AN6 tubing).
rack end: AN6 45 degree hose connector, these are special for the teflon, they are steel, not anodized ali.

pump end: AN6 90 degree hose connector, these are special for the teflon, they are steel, not anodized ali.

adapter for pump HP port: aeroquip M16 to AN6 adapter with O-ring on base.


Low pressure side:
1ft AN6 braided line (not teflon)
45 degree AN6 hose end fitting (your choice of pretty colors)
6" of 3/8" black oil hose
double barbed straight thru connector 3/8"
three small hose clamps for 3/8" hose



For the elctrical, I soldered to the PS pump terminals, and fitted generic metripack connectors, then gooped up the PS connector housing with slicone. You could try to find a toyota pigtail, which would be nicer.

Ian

Ian, would you happen to have the part numbers for the hose ends and hose etc from areoquipe? Only if you have em handy. Im looking at summitracing and am not 100% sure im getting the right stuff. No problem either way!

edit...

Is this the hose? Aeroquip FCC0603 If so, I think I can find what I need :D



David
 
#10 ·
BTW, someone suggested using the blue thick hose for the PS application, it's not teflon, but some high pressure thick walled rubber hose without SS braiding. The fittings for this type of hose are huge and will not fit on the rack as the ports are too close together.
 
#13 ·
Also just so people know, those Mustang II racks could be considered a bit fragile. We would go through 2-3 of them in a season of racing. A moderate impact seemed to kill the valving. Just an FYI. Probably a condition most GTMs won't experience regularly.
 
#18 ·
VSA Steering available on grand prix,bonnevilles etc. tightens the steering as you go faster. That is a great just what the GTM needs. it should come standand with the kit!!!! Ha!


DJ
I agree... in essence, this is exactly what eeeny has created. A programmable power steering pump that will reduce assist the faster you go... and you can choose how much assist.

I ordered my PS pump yesterday so should have that in about a week or so. Eeeny was cool enough to send me a list of parts I needed, so I will try and get those ordered this week. Hopefully I will have a a running car with PS and new control arms within the next 3 weeks or so and I can give you an idea how it feels.

David
 
#19 ·
Jeff,

I've got to imagine the hoses could have some length if needed. You could mount the pump behind the front splash panels(custom ones Richard O makes) or up front on the opposite side of the expansion tank by the radiators.(just on the other side of where he has it) if its not too tall.
 
#21 ·
Guys,

I spoke to Bill on Ians behalf, and we have permission for him to sell the controller boards on the forum. Ian will make a predetermined donation to Bill's legal defense fund for each board he sells.

I believe the total price for the board will be about $50 including the donation but the final price is up to him. I'll let Ian provide details.

Im super excited about trying this out... and really really appreciate someone with Ian's brain power taking the time to design this circuit for us and is willing to share the knowledge and end result for such a low cost.

David
 
#23 ·
yep $50 will cover my cost and I'll make a donation to the fund for each one sold.

I'm looking fwd to Dave's feedback.
I think it's best if orders are delayed until any feeback from Dave can be incorporated into the software.. otherwise you'll be shipping it back to me for reprogramming.

Ian
 
#29 · (Edited)
Non-MR2 pumps: How To

Once Dave B has his up and running and is happy, I'll start to ship them.

Ref the FETs (transistor) for other pumps:


these should work, $3.85 from Digikey (I'd buy a couple):

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FD/FDP025N06.pdf

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FD/FDP025N06.pdf


You need to screw it to a heatsink/chassis using the hole on the metal tab.
It needs Bare metal contact to conduct the heat away from the transisitor (actually you should use heatsink grease).
Note, I can't see if the metal tab is connected to any of the three pins on the FET. You need to be careful of this. If it is connected to the DRAIN (D) you're ok. If it's any of the other two, you need to use a special insulating mica washer under the transistor, which will still conduct the heat away, but electrically isolate the tab, such as:

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/21-1175
digikey probably has them, also.

and there is also a plastic spacer that stops the screw making electric contact.

You can just use a multimeter to see if the metal tab is connected to any of the 3 pins.


To hook up the transistor:

Connect the DRAIN (D) to ground
connect the SOURCE (S) to one side of the motor
connect the other side of the motor to 12v
connect the GATE (G) to 12v to start the pump and 0v to stop the pump.


Keep the wires to the motor short to reduce RF emmision.
Later you may have to add a ferrite bead around the wire to stop radio interference, but just get the basic stuff working 1st ;-).


If can get this working, I can send you a specially programmed controller that will connect to the GATE of tge FET transistor and will then speed control the pump.



Eventually, you need to water proof the circuit. You could buy a metal project box that is at least splash proof and screw the transistor to the inside of that to act as a heat sink. Then mount the box close to the pump on the frame to help pull the heat away.



I don't have acces to a stand alone pump, so I can't test this myself, but is someone else could pioneer this and share the details, that would be good.


oh, I just found the FET insulator kits from Jameco (insulator, washer, bolt and nut) from Jameco:
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c291/P17.pdf

bottom left of the page, part number 34121, $3.95 for 5 sets



on the same page are nice heatlinks and one transistor may work, IRF3205
but the digikey one is better, as it has less ON resistance (RdsOn) which means that it won't get as hot.


I would buy two FETs and wire them in parallel, then connect the gate to 12v and run the pump for 2mins under load to make sure they don't overheat. BTW, don't run them w/o the heatrsink or they will burn up very quickly.
As a side note, I once had a PC that was flakey and kept crashing, I goit more and more frustrqated with it until one time it crashed I kicked the PC case (not very hard). But hard enough to knock off the heatsink/fan crom the CPU. Those CPU's generate huge amont of heat, the cpu burned up in <5secs .. it just went up in smoke!! Once you let the "magic smoke" out of electronics, they don't work anymore. The magic smoke is what makes them work.




BTW, the MR2 spyder pumps have the FETs built in and use the aluminum motor pump body as the heatsink.


That's all for now ;-)




Ian
 
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