What are your suggestions for change cable clutch system to hydraulic ?
I have too much pressure on the pedal and in traffic it is horrible.
I have a 351W stroked 427 with a 10.5 clutch coupled with a Tremec TKO 600, 5 speed.
My parts come from Engine Factory.
I would appreciate web link and/or pictures to make the conversion if you can.
The cost is not important, I want the best and keep it simple.
I will be at the FFR open house next June 9th, hope see you !
I just changed a complete kit cable to hydraulic and it is at least a 100% improvement. Pedal pressure is a little less and pedal travel to clutch dis-engagement has gone from 90+% of travel to about 40% of travel.
A 1-1/8: master was recommended and is a direct bolt in with the Wilwood pedal assembly. Slave selection and mounting hardware is dependent on engine/trans, and I have no experience with your set-up so calling Mike is a good idea.
Get at least a 1" MC or 1 1/8", that way you can lower the clutch pedal to be more in line with your brake pedal but push enough fluid volume to fully disengage the clutch. After having a leaky Wilwood Master I went with a Tilton 76 series, they are about $40 more but the quality difference is worth it, the bore is polished and hard anodized...Wilwoods are as cast and NOT anodized. These things are so difficult to replace on a completed car (about 4 hours), that I would spring for the higher quality part for the MC.
I did buy the kit from Fortes, nice brackets and fittings, some shimming of the bracket required depending on your clutch configuration, but easy to do.
Here's a couple pics of my setup on a TKO 500 w Quicktime Bellhousing to a small block.
I built my own using a Wilwood slave and a piece of angle iron that is bolted to the Energy Suspension motor mount. I also welded a tab to the chassis so I could run hard line down to the clutch area and attach the flex line with a AN bulkhead fitting. I used a 1" master cylinder, it feels just about the same as a stock Mustang clutch, only much smoother.
Here's a photo of the hard lines and the tab for the bulkhead fitting.
I did what Dave and others have done. Buy Forte's kit and stipulate a 1" or 1 1/8" master.
I have the latter.. works perfectly.
I have a new/unused 1" Tilton master lying around. I was going to go with that, but leap-frogged it for a 1 1/8" Wilwood (no leaks here).
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