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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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brake pads

Any thoughts on best brake pads for track n street use ?? Have disc all around . thanks


jeff
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-16-2013, 10:48 PM
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I would just call your favorite vendor and ask them. It is a compromise as you know. I was running a set of rotors and pads for the street and another set for track only. This way there is no compromise and you won't tear up your pretty street wheels with brake dust.



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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-17-2013, 12:43 AM
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If you're not hitting the track too hard, you can use a Hawk HP+. It's not a great track pad, but it's easy enough on the street to be comfortable.

If you're hammering it on the track pretty hard, there really isn't a pad that will work well in both places.

Changing pads is not that big of a deal, and only takes a few minutes. Be sure to use pads from the same manufacturer, of a similar material. That way you don't have to resurface the rotors and bed new pads every time.

.boB "Iron Man"
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-27-2013, 02:28 PM
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Try Carbotech, I use them on my Spec Racer (as do most of the race folks), they make street versions also and rotor friendly (even the race version).

Tony Nadalin
MKII Challenge Car, Spec Racer, Street Legal, 302 EFI, 3 Link, ICSCC, NASA and SCCA Racing
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-28-2013, 01:10 PM
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If you are an instructor with NASA they will give you a discount at Carbotech.

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1 of 2 Panoz built Challenge Car, FFR4327SP, Dart Iron Eagle 427, Victor Jr. intake, Victor Jr. heads, AED prepped road race 750,Tremec 600, Levy spec'ed cam, 500 rwhp, 500 rwtq, 3:27/ 8.8
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-02-2013, 05:10 PM
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Brake Pads

I have fitted EBC Yellowstuff to my car all round and am very happy to recommend them. I have done half a dozen track days now with no problems. Without a servo, the pedal pressure has always been very high.

Have recently fitted a brake servo, which has vastly improved my braking and no heat or fade issues from the pads. Made big difference to my lap times and I could actually lock a wheel if I tried!

On the road, much better bite when cold - great all round pad with no worries. It more brake dust than with standard pads, but nothing I can't live with!

Hope this helps!

Ian

First Mk 111 Roadster in UK and RHD. Ford 393W with Edelbrock RPM Performer = 475 bhp. Tremec TKO 500. Rear axle 3.55:1. IRS and Vintage pin-drive wheels. SVA passed, road legal 6th June 2008!!

Just started Coupe build, chassis now right hand drive and powder coated. Front and rear suspension on. Rear axle 3.55:1. IRS and Vintage pin-drive wheels. Will use 302 engine - no idea how or when I will get one!

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-10-2013, 12:10 PM
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Let me start off by saying I work for Power Stop LLC a manufacturer of street performance pads and drilled and slotted rotors. I just started in November so I donít know everything about brake pads but Iím learning. We make pads and rotors for all late model OEM applications and we do through testing of our pads and competitorís pads at the Link dynamometer lab in Detroit.

We have tested the Hawk HP+ pads and they exhibit noticeable fade as do the EBC Greenstuff pads. Iíll ask our product manager if they tested the Yellowstuff pads when I get in the office today.

The Power Stop Extreme Z26 series pad would be a good choice for Street and occasional Autocross use. They out performs the EBC Greenstuff and the Hawk HP+ pads during dynamometer testing. The Z26 pads have an initial coefficient of friction (Mu) of 0.40 where OEM is around 0.30 (bigger is better) and the Mu doesnít drop of all that much (fade) with heat and pressure. The result is brake torque consistently higher than OE pads and higher than the EBC Green and Hawk HP+. The Z26 friction compound is a carbon fiber and ceramic hybrid that resists fade to 1500 degrees and they donít make a lot of dust. We sell a lot of the carbon fiber/ceramic friction material pads (which we number Z36 for truck) along with drilled and slotted rotors for trucks and SUVs.

There is no such thing as a Track and Street pad. If you make a pad to stand up to 2000+ degree track use it will not have much of a coefficient (Mu)/bite when cold.

Let me throw out: We are currently working on developing a line of pads and high carbon rotors for road racing and may be looking for someone to do some testing for us.

In all fairness I have the Carbotech type 1521 pads and basic aftermarket rotors on my Cobra and they seem to work just fine on the street and during some autocross.

Jack

Judged Best In Class; Production Road Racer at World Of Wheels Chicago 2013. Ford BOSS 347 short block, Dart Al heads.. 360 RWHP, T-5 Z, IRS W/ Detroit Truetrac & 3.73s, SN95 spindles w/SAI mod, 99 PBR brakes, AGR Power Steering, and a Load of engineering changes. Graduation Post #22
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-17-2013, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrQ View Post
Try Carbotech, I use them on my Spec Racer (as do most of the race folks), they make street versions also and rotor friendly (even the race version).
Ditto on Carbotech (www.CTBrakes.com). Not only do their pads work very well, but they are easy on rotors. Call Danny at Carbotech.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-07-2014, 10:13 PM
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I have a front pair of Carbotech pads for sale.

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1 of 2 Panoz built Challenge Car, FFR4327SP, Dart Iron Eagle 427, Victor Jr. intake, Victor Jr. heads, AED prepped road race 750,Tremec 600, Levy spec'ed cam, 500 rwhp, 500 rwtq, 3:27/ 8.8
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-22-2014, 04:40 PM
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Racing pads required heat to work best. The type of pad best suited to your needs depends upon the type of racing you do.

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