After a run at Putnam last month, I came home and was pretty pleased with my weekend in that I ran 2 seconds faster than I ever have (new tires are great!) and I was happy with the wear on the front tires - right out to the indicators like they should be on the outside only. The rears were a little different. I have a solid axle car, 4 link, and found the wear to be 95% across the tread outside in, but there is a bout 1" or more that doesn't appear to be wearing near as much as the outer part of the tread. I can post pics if need be, but first impressions? My crossweights are right at 50/50. I have the 750# springs up front (big block car) and the 350# springs in the rear. I ran my slicks at 26lbs cold, and increased my rears to see if there was a change - there was, but minute. So, wondering how I can get that last part of the tread on the rears to grip the track?
The only way would be to camber the diff housing. To do that you need to put it in a big press and bend the axle tubes.
__________________ gordon@levyracing.com Pro Builder and Go Fast Specialist
99/2000 NASA PSO Champion in a FFR
2005 FFR Challenge West coast Champions 2nd 2005 Nationals Sponsor for Tony B. ST-2 National Champion 2007
2009 TTC runner up-2010 TTB Runner up
Over 155 Turnkey FFR's in 16 years and still counting
that is how mine wear. It is what Gordon said, live axle = 0 chamber. You can heat the tubes and bend them a small amount. I leave mine alone, I am worried about the bearings/axles getting messed up.
__________________
FFR3842, Levy Forged 349ci/500hp, AFR185's, Wilwood 6/4 piston Superlites, Koni DAs, Magnesium bellhousing and Tilton Triple disk clutch, GF5R dog ringed 5 speed, 3link, VPM sway bars, Hoosier A6s, CCW forged wheels, wings, undertray, diffuser
Well at least I know it's somewhat normal. So, if I don't want to bend housings and such, the patch would be air pressure? different springs? Live with it? So, if I were to switch to 3 or 5 link, would that help?
The 5 link will plant the tires harder but you will have similar wear to what you have now.
__________________ gordon@levyracing.com Pro Builder and Go Fast Specialist
99/2000 NASA PSO Champion in a FFR
2005 FFR Challenge West coast Champions 2nd 2005 Nationals Sponsor for Tony B. ST-2 National Champion 2007
2009 TTC runner up-2010 TTB Runner up
Over 155 Turnkey FFR's in 16 years and still counting
__________________ gordon@levyracing.com Pro Builder and Go Fast Specialist
99/2000 NASA PSO Champion in a FFR
2005 FFR Challenge West coast Champions 2nd 2005 Nationals Sponsor for Tony B. ST-2 National Champion 2007
2009 TTC runner up-2010 TTB Runner up
Over 155 Turnkey FFR's in 16 years and still counting
Gordon,
I also think that after so many runs you can rotate them side to side as well. There won't be any of the original "tread" left, and they will be close to being heat cycled out anyways.
__________________
Marty Howard
FFR Challenge #43
2012 NASA SE Champion
2011 NASA SE Champion Race Team
My 3 link is the same way. Zero camber sucks but what can you do. I started a long thread about 1.5 yrs ago on cambering solid axles. For me the end result is that it is very expensive to do correctly. And two felllow autocrossers who have done the 9 inch ends onto the 8 inch axle both have leaks that don't seem to be completely fixable. Going the full route on a 9 inch axle would be the ticket but it's expensive and that is one very heavy axle housing that we don't really need.
__________________
FFR 5353K,351/400hp,TKO 500, 3-link w/3.08 and Truetrac, Koni DA coilovers front and rear,APE hardtop,Forte front and VPM rear swaybars
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