Hydraulic clutch advice for a track car - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

MRBEAR33 · 12-30-2011, 01:51 PM

I am considering going with a hydraulic clutch on my track purpose coupe. I'm wondering if there is anyone who has tried a hydraulic throwout bearing. I'd also like to hear feedback on going the slave cylinder route, as well as brands, with road course track use in mind.

I'm initially planning on about 300-320 hp and a t-5.

Thanks! Going to find that t5 this weekend I hope, then get the engine and tranny in.

trevor · 12-30-2011, 09:10 PM

I am switching over to this Tilton system now. It has a hydrulic throwout bearing. I imagine it works well being designed for road racing.

MRBEAR33 · 12-31-2011, 05:03 PM

I really like this set up Trevor. Please let me know what you think of it.

One concern someone expressed with the hydraulic TO bearing is a leak causing the clutch to slip. Any input on that? Like you said, this was designed for road racing...

Thanks!
Eric

Quote:

Originally Posted by trevor

I am switching over to this Tilton system now. It has a hydrulic throwout bearing. I imagine it works well being designed for road racing

trevor · 12-31-2011, 08:20 PM

I havent heard of any leakage problems. I will let you know how it works this season. This is the basic NASCAR setup before the new COT car came out. These guys have to be one of the hardest on parts with the length of their races.

SwiftDB4 · 12-31-2011, 10:17 PM

DO NOT use a McLeod internal slave cylinder. The one on my GT40 leaked 3 times including a factory rebuild from McLeod. The McLeod design is crap using o rings to seal the swivel fittings. Tilton makes very sturdy ones with AN screw in swivel fittings. All the formula race cars I had used Tilton or AP racing internal slaves. I never had one fail in over 100 races.

Mike Forte · 12-31-2011, 11:44 PM

Hi MRBEAR33,
I used to sell lots of hydraulic throw out bearing. I personally used the Tilton pictured above in my GT-1 Camaro. It's installed correctly but it leaks. Before t leaked it worked fine. It then started leaking and needed pumping to release the clutch.
I've sold Quarter Master, RAM, McLeod and after all of the failures I've developed so many variations of external slave/fork setup to never have a failure again.
I can't even guess how many hydraulic throw out bearing have failed multiple times. That was my inspiration to fix the problems and have I believe a superior system compared to the internal design.
Remember, when the hyd t/o bearing fails it requires a hugh amount of work to get to the problem. That effort may or may not fix the problem. These are NOT OEM parts so these are not engineered parts to fit your specific application.
Call me if you have any questions.

xlr8or · 01-04-2012, 04:07 AM

Bear, talk to Mike. His triple master pedal setup combined with his external slave setup is fabulous and infinitely tuneable for brake bias too.
He can get you the entire package from flywheel to driveshaft.

He's one of the best vendors on this site.

MRBEAR33 · 01-07-2012, 04:16 PM

I already have everything except the clutch and TB or slave cylinder. Any difference in performance between push & pull? I have a Lakewood SFI scatterschield.

Thanks guys!

Chepsk8 · 02-05-2012, 05:32 PM

I run an external CNC slave mounted on a bracket to push the clutch fork. Once set up, never leaked, failed, or complained, still as smooth as a Toyota after 5 years and three clutches. Very easy when servicing the trans or clutch, two bolts to remove the slave assy & mounting bracket, and push it to the side, never have to open the fluid part of the system, simple re-install, stays adjusted.

Currently using s SPEC stage 3 clutch assy, works great!

Dan

MRBEAR33 · 02-06-2012, 11:59 AM

Cheapsk8, where did you get the bracket? How about the CNC slave (Push?)?

I came across a deal on a TKO600 with a Lakewood bellhousing, so if I go with an external, I may have to fab my own...

Chepsk8 · 02-06-2012, 12:57 PM

I still run a T-5 and the factory Bellhousing, so the bracket I purchased simply bolted onto the two tabs on the side of the transmission. It was sold by a company from San Diego, though I think they are no longer in busines. Check with Forte's, he has many external set-ups, may be able to help you.

The slave cyl is by CNC, and sized to work with the master. There are a bunch of threads in the Roadster section somewhere discussing the ratios of bore size.

Dan

Chepsk8 · 02-06-2012, 03:16 PM

Just posted these pics on another thread in the roadster forum:

Here's a couple of pics of my system that uses the Fox pedals and a T-5. These are not the final pieces used in the quadrant, but the operation, size, motions, and dimensions are quite close.

The new "Quadrant" that pushes the clutch master cylender -

The slave on the trans -

The slave kit -

Adjustable both up at the pedal, and down at the clutch, had ZERO problems since completed!

Dan

MRBEAR33 · 02-07-2012, 12:52 PM

I can't go with that bracket, but it and another I have seen give me some good ideas.

I think I can get the CNC cylinders, complete, for $70, and then fab a bracket for under $100 total.

Interested though, that's the first return spring I have seen... is that an early Mustang thing, do you know (I noticed that's a nearly Mustang kit)?

Hope this thread becomes useful to others.

Chepsk8 · 02-07-2012, 01:41 PM

Most of the threads and posts I do are for information , ideas, or to show what I have done. I always like to inspire others!

The spring has almost no effect on return, the pressure plate does that. The spring is mostly to keep the fork on the slave cyl pin when the clutch is "out" and the hydraulics are relaxed, and it does not come undone.