I'm ready to rivt my PS footbox. From the standpoint of squeaks AND leak-tightness, I'm thinking I should use the silicone between the aluminum panels and the frame of course, but also between between the riveted (contacting) edges of footbox aluminum panels before they are riveted ??? Comments?
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#F5R1004921RD – MKIII Delivered 6/21/05; First Start 6/14/08; Go-Kart 8/2/08 – No-donor, carbed 351W/400+hp, 3-link, Forte LCAs, CNC M/C, FFMetal Ftboxes & Firewall, I**2 elec, 15" Team-III wheels, SC Dash, Leather Seats, Ford Tuxedo Black Metallic / Hyundai Extreme Blue Metallic Stripes
You are correct. I would suggest drilling all your holes,remove the panels,blow off the metal chips, and silicon all contact surfaces then reinstall. Also might be a good idea to indicate what side the silicon goes on before you take it a part( I had to clean more than one panel because I applied it to the wrong side.... ) Have fun !
Originally posted by Sherrell: I'm ready to rivt my PS footbox. From the standpoint of squeaks AND leak-tightness, I'm thinking I should use the silicone between the aluminum panels and the frame of course, but also between between the riveted (contacting) edges of footbox aluminum panels before they are riveted ??? Comments?
Yes! I expect that water will wick right through the riveted panels without silicon.. And yes, it can turn into a mess really quick. Have some wet towels handy.
I siliconed between all panels, then after riveting them I applied a bead of silicone right to the edge of the panels and forced it in with my fingers (like caulking a tub). Finally, I checked the rivets for mandrels and any rivets that had the mandrel pulled all the way through I put drop of silicone in the rivet to prevent water/air leaks through the rivet itself...
2006: 2/14 Delivery by Stewart Transport, 8/15 becomes a roller, 8/26 drivetrain installed, 10/15 first engine start, 12/23 wiring completed, 12/31 body test fit
2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed
2008: 1/7 home from paint, 2/1 titled, tagged, and insured, 3/15 interior complete, 6/2 alignment, 6/4 Graduation
tip: use rubbing alcohol instead of water or other for smoothing and working with silicone, drinking alcohol to be used incase of big boo boo. what do i know till i find out?
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Bob
FFR MK III 5545, FRPP 392, Powerjection III, TKO600, 3-link, 3.55, First start 10/05/09, Go cart 11/2/09, Paint 1/2/10, Titled & tagged 4/12/10
Opps, misread the subject line. Where is Pam Anderson now anyway?
OK back on topic.
Quick primer on sheet metal.
Clamp panels in place.
Mark, drill and cleco at least three holes per panel.
Drill the rest of the holes, cleco'ing several other holes as you go.
Take panels apart, deburr the holes, blow the shavings out.
Apply silicone (or other sealant) to the faying surfaces.
Cleco the panels together (at least three clecos)
Rivet
I also recommend "wet" installation in places where your aluminum rivets are going into the steel frame. This helps break the electrolytic path between dissimilar metals. Wet install means apply silicone to the rivet itself as you insert it.
HTH,
d
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Donald Rogus
3733k Stock 5.0, 3:55 gears, 15" Halibrands, '91 donor, Tremec 3550. "Arrest Me" Yellow / Black Stripes.
My car: a lightweight, precision-guided, sledgehammer.
Originally posted by Captain Gourley: What's a cleco?
It's a temporary rivet for a lack of a better description. You insert clecko's in to hold panel in place while you drill the balance of any additional holes, then rivet away.
Here is a pic of the passenger footbox with 2 clecko's holding the inside panel to the 4" round tube, HTH
Good piccy Arlington.
You need Cleco pliers to use them Cap'n.
The pliers hold the Cleco and push the plunger down, which makes the insertion end (at the right in Arlington's piccy) small enough to fit in your drilled hole. When you remove the pliers, the end expands and holds itself in the hole, thereby holding the panels together as well. They're a kind of temporary, removable rivet.
HTH,
d
__________________
Donald Rogus
3733k Stock 5.0, 3:55 gears, 15" Halibrands, '91 donor, Tremec 3550. "Arrest Me" Yellow / Black Stripes.
My car: a lightweight, precision-guided, sledgehammer.
They are a MUST for good panel installation....
Mine came from Aircraft Spruce , but there may be site vendors that sell them.(Sorry , don't know if they do).
Also, I'm sure someone will ask what a faying surface is. The term is not used too much outside the aviation community.
Any time to pieces of metal rub one another, the contact surface is the faying surface.
__________________ Flying is the answer...What was the question?
Doug
Arrival: 11/26/06 (My Birthday) Roller: 4/20/08 First Start & Gokart: 10/18/08 Body back on for the first time since delivery: 1/18/09 Registered: April 2010 Graduation: When it's finished!
Is silicone really the best sealant to use? My experience with silicone in the past is that it has the tendency to age badly. As well I would think it's shear strength is limited. No doubt silicone is easier to work with, and more forgiving of a mis=application, or mistake, but wouldn't a urethane sealer be stronger, and have better longevity? I would think it would add to the rigidity of the whole vehicle. I know it plays a role in the unibody car overall strength, as per the front and rear glass.
What other sealants have been tried, and what are the pro's and con's of them?
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Love at first bite! FFR6803RD, MKIII 3.1, 302EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5 c/w Hurst Short Shifter, 3 link, Koni coil overs, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear, BBK rr lower control arms, Chuck's Roadster wire harness, part donor, part new. Officially on road 09/2010
I used Bostik 1100 Urethane Adhesive Sealant that Mark at Breeze recomended.
From Bostiks website:
"Bostik 1100 is a urethane sealant that may also be used as an adhesive. Its curing characteristic allows for easy repositioning of bonded surfaces. It bonds tenaciously to a variety of materials making it ideal for interior or exterior sealing applications in assembly of horse trailers, truck trailers, buses and recreational vehicles. Also available in a fast set formulation."
After drilling, and de-burring I scuff up the contact areas (frame and aluminum, basically and contact area) with a scuff pad or fine sandpaper and then clean with acetone. This ensures the silicone will adhere and seal.
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