Is ISIS the answer to my woes?

[Danner]

I'd like to start up a discussion of isispower in a roadster. I know it is used in the GTM, I'm investigating the use of it in a mkIV.

The more I think about it, the more electronic stuff I realize is a part of a build, lights(low,high,turns,interior,brake), hvac, ignition, audio, pumps, fans, horn, wipers. It adds up quickly. As a computer guy, ISIS seems nice, but also nothing that I couldn't wire up on my own given enough time (or an arduino and a healthy set of relays)

Have you used isis? worth it?

[chrisarella]

From what I've read it looks like a good solution, but man, that is not cheap.

[rscocca]

ISIS controls everything in my roadster, I have the 3 module master kit, touch screen and will soon be adding the contol module for vintage air controls.
Very easy to use and tech support is the best I've had to deal with.

If you can afford it I highly recoment it. It just makes life simpler.

[rlhobt]

Their tech support never sleeps! Absolutely first rate.

Rich

[akdreamer23]

Originally Posted by rscocca

ISIS controls everything in my roadster, I have the 3 module master kit, touch screen and will soon be adding the contol module for vintage air controls.
Very easy to use and tech support is the best I've had to deal with.

If you can afford it I highly recoment it. It just makes life simpler.

X2,

I was a beta tester, serial #1, 2, 3.....and LOVE it. Will use again if I do another build or restoration. Way to easy to make it do exactly what you want.

[arm7419]

I have the system in my Mklll and 33 Hotrod

Chuck

[tirod]

Lots of guys raised on old wiring systems wonder why even bother? Well, yes, I'm old school, too. And I balk at hydraulic clutches, much less some high end whiz kid computer running my turn signals.

I also drive really old stuff - a '66 Mustang for 18 years, a 80 F150 after that, now a 90 Cherokee. And if there's one major PITA thing about old cars, it's old cars with old wiring. The voltage drop, corrosion, poor lighting, loss of bulb life, it goes on and on and on. Detroit did not ever want us to be driving cars out beyond the warranty, they use the cheapest possible wiring and system. It's the epitome of planned obsolescence.

Is that a standard to uphold in a kit build?

Why use a donor wiring harness? I'm not yet to saving money for a project, that's potentially next year. But the idea of getting a ten year old wiring harness out of a wrecked or salvage car, with the attendant voltage loss and corrosion? Much less getting it out without knicking, scraping, and damaging the connectors? And having too many circuits in it, and being forced to diet it down? Why would I want that major headache?

It is, you all tell me about it in posts here and on the other two sites. Huge bulky cable harness that takes up space and won't bend. "Dieting." And hooking things up, but not working.

I might not be able to do much about the powertrain controller, you have to use what you need for whatever generation of fuel injection you get - you carb guys can stop your snickering. But the body management stuff still exists, and yes, there's plenty of it. No free pass on that.

I've chased down a turn signal that won't work, from battery, thru the steering column, to the flasher, back out to the bulb. And three days later, you find it's a bad ground INSIDE the socket. Well, that one will always be with us.

But - would a body management computer be worse? Take another look.

You get battery power direct to the power management box, one in front, one in back. Thats one power cable for that end of the car. From it, the individual supply goes out to the part, whether it's a bulb, fuel pump, whatever. Not, from battery to dash to body and back again with 17 feet of wire. There's no doubling back for power, it's the shortest feeds you can engineer.

What the main brain box does is do what you tell it to with a switch. Pull up on the turn signal for right turns, it tells that input to the brain box, Right Turn. Box tells power boxes, turn on the right turn signal bulb, and make it blink. Boxes blink bulb.

It's still up to you to make sure it's grounded. But it's much less complicated - the turn signal doesn't host 12VDC to operate a flasher to operate the bulb, and the wiring doesn't run back and forth. It's simple and direct. And, you even get to watch it at the brain box on a LCD screen, and at the power box with LED's telling you everything works - or doesn't. The boxes check each other, you are told they are working, and you are told the bulbs are connected.

You don't get that with old school. You get no bulb blinking, and sweet frigging good luck with that.

I'm old school, but even I post on the internet, and even I know when this little laptop hasn't got power. The lights don't light up, and the screen is dark. I find it a little amusing that there are guys posting on $500 computers with a DSL bill monthly saying they would rather use copper wire with a thin coating of plastic in their car. It's barely one step ahead of 1930's wiring, the stuff isn't even stranded and tinned to prevent some corrosion. I'm not knowledgeable about aircraft, I doubt it could be used at all in automotive grade. I suspect people wouldn't fly with you if you'd used a ten year old harness out of wreck.

Soak the average passenger car in flood water for a day, it's salvage. The wiring harness gets saturated, shorts out, and stays wet for weeks. Aside from mold, the rest of the car is salvagable - drivetrain, body, even some interior with cleaning. BUT- not the wiring.

ISIS uses stuff rated to be submerged and survive. The 4WD guys are really looking it over.

So, for the money, what's in it for a kit builder. It's about double the price. Ouch. It's not a snake of old wiring from the junk yard, either, it's as new and modern as a 2013 body module controller. It's got 50% less wiring. It carries current to where its needed, not back and forth all over the chassis. It has more capacity than most stock setups, and, it's expandable, they aren't. It's brand new wiring, but only what you need, overall, it's likely less voltage drop in the long run - there's less wiring. It has 1) security, 2) the turn signal controller, 3) horn power, 4) wiper power, 5) all those other circuits - each one capable of 25 amp load, the power center handles that, the switch doesn't. Less wear and tear on switches.

It can sequentially start up the car - fuel pump, then ignition, then starter solenoid, then to run. No, it doesn't do the fuel injection. But the fuel injection doesn't do the other stuff, either. You still had to wire for it.

It all ads up - and what I'm hearing is it's worth it. I've done the old school stuff, even built a headlight relay harness for some high output halogens. And when it was done, guess what, they wig wagged hi/lo, and I had to spend more time fixing it. There's posts almost every week, someone's installed a donor or aftermarket harness, the car does everything except start and run. Days are lost - project work days that take second place to family, holidays, etc. and which kit builders tell us put projects months behind. Months.

All because some wire isn't connected properly. Something ISIS will tell you up front, because you tell it where it should be going. And if that's not right on the screen, you see it.

Not like old school - all you get there is a bundle of rainbow wiring, and good luck with that. If my turn signal isn't working, and the bulb looks good, which would I rather diagnose? Being old school, I don't want the hassle - that's the point, old school teaches you what does and doesn't work. Old school wiring is for the birds. For the cost of two very expensive custom wheels and tires - it's a fair trade, I'll take the ISIS and run stock car steelies.

Then I could start the seat heaters up by remote and be cozy when I buckle up in November. Fancy mag wheels and summer time rubber won't cut it then anyway.

[svtjackal]

whoa!!! didn't knew about this,
how hard is this compared to the convention wiring harness install?

I got a painless harness that I have been trying to figure out but the whole relay this, diode here has me all frustrated, so I am about to pay someone to wire my car but this seem like something I can handle, I am more of a computer guy.

from what I read, you just give the module power and ground and connect what you need to the input and connect the device you want to power to the output and to the swich to be use for that, and you get a LCD screen to monitor the system,

can this system ran the electrical needs of my carburated 302?

what would I need to completey run my roadster with this system, from gauges to headlights and everything in beetween?

thanks for the help.

[Terrorist Hunter]

It is the answer and I love mine. Unfortunately my lousy computer dumped everything I wrote the first try but my bottom line is this: I have a carb'd engine, heater, seat heaters, getting footbox blowers from Earl's, and the security option. I need just one more power relay up front, but I've got extras in the back and I'll make it work. Everything works exactly as described and though I started with a regular wiring harness, I couldn't stand the mess and weight. This thing comes in a box just bigger than a shoebox and has pretty much everything you need to install but wire tools (invest in the good ones and don't look back). Use heatshrink on the connections and I'm sure you won't regret having your entire car's wiring set up AND WORKING in just a couple of nights. I had mine set up in probably 3 nights, with braided loom and everything connection wrapped in heat shrink. Ignition and lights/power for gauges just piggy back on your existing connection with in-line connectors. It is an awesome setup and if I were sticking to my budget doing this again, I would still purchase this early in the build.

[svtjackal]

Originally Posted by Terrorist Hunter

It is the answer and I love mine. Unfortunately my lousy computer dumped everything I wrote the first try but my bottom line is this: I have a carb'd engine, heater, seat heaters, getting footbox blowers from Earl's, and the security option. I need just one more power relay up front, but I've got extras in the back and I'll make it work. Everything works exactly as described and though I started with a regular wiring harness, I couldn't stand the mess and weight. This thing comes in a box just bigger than a shoebox and has pretty much everything you need to install but wire tools (invest in the good ones and don't look back). Use heatshrink on the connections and I'm sure you won't regret having your entire car's wiring set up AND WORKING in just a couple of nights. I had mine set up in probably 3 nights, with braided loom and everything connection wrapped in heat shrink. Ignition and lights/power for gauges just piggy back on your existing connection with in-line connectors. It is an awesome setup and if I were sticking to my budget doing this again, I would still purchase this early in the build.

thanks for the feedback terrorist hunter, what do you mean when you say that "you need one more power relay"?, you mean that you used all of the outputs on the ISIS powercell?

do you have the 2-cell or the 3-cell?

sorry for all the questions, but it seems that I am leaning towards getting this system and want to see what I need to order

[svtjackal]

Originally Posted by Terrorist Hunter

It is the answer and I love mine. Unfortunately my lousy computer dumped everything I wrote the first try but my bottom line is this: I have a carb'd engine, heater, seat heaters, getting footbox blowers from Earl's, and the security option. I need just one more power relay up front, but I've got extras in the back and I'll make it work.

Ok I just spent almost all my work shift reading about ISIS and now I know what you mean that you have extra in the back,

That is awesome that you can split the wiring on 2, I am so impressed that I order the 3 cell and the ISIS inlink,

I will be happy to rip out my old wiring harness and all the stupid relays and diodes,

BTW has anyone used the ISIS with Russ Thompson's turn signal stalk?

[akdreamer23]

Originally Posted by svtjackal

BTW has anyone used the ISIS with Russ Thompson's turn signal stalk?

Yes.
When headlights are off, the stalk button is flash for pass, when on, it is a monentary switch to toggle between hi and lo beam.

uses 3 input leads to the master-cell and them program a if/then function into the momentary button input.

2nd input left signal

3rd input right signal.

>10000 miles, serial #1,2,3, still works like a champ!

[Terrorist Hunter]

SVT, I see you got what I was saying, I just need one more circuit up front, two at most so that if I wanted wipers AND footbox blowers, I would have those two extra fuses. As it is, I still wouldn't change anything, and I can easily change things so that I'm still in business. The three piece kit is all most builders will likely ever need, I'd be surprised to see any car that really needs more than that short of a production vehicle with power windows, etc.

[svtjackal]

Originally Posted by akdreamer23

Yes.
When headlights are off, the stalk button is flash for pass, when on, it is a monentary switch to toggle between hi and lo beam.

uses 3 input leads to the master-cell and them program a if/then function into the momentary button input.

2nd input left signal

3rd input right signal.

>10000 miles, serial #1,2,3, still works like a champ!

Cool thanks for the info.

I have been reading and watching videos that now I am excited to start wiring my car, compared to before where I was stressed out just thinking about it, and the best part is that these guys are basically my neighbors if I get in to trouble I can probably get Jay Harris to come over and fix whatever issue I am having after all he was happy to answer avery question I had right away Even at the crack of dawn but I expect to not have any problems, hopefully.

[akdreamer23]

Originally Posted by svtjackal

Cool thanks for the info.

I have been reading and watching videos that now I am excited to start wiring my car, compared to before where I was stressed out just thinking about it, and the best part is that these guys are basically my neighbors if I get in to trouble I can probably get Jay Harris to come over and fix whatever issue I am having after all he was happy to answer avery question I had right away Even at the crack of dawn but I expect to not have any problems, hopefully.

Jay was great to work with. Cannot say enough about the ISIS guys.

[akdreamer23]

ISIS master cell and front power cell behind dash. Dash is quick removable with 3 bolts and the molex connectors.





Rear power cell in a compartment under the trunk with access panel in trunk.

[akdreamer23]

[svtjackal]

That looks awesome,

I was just thinking on where to put the mastercell and I thought that you could not remove the dash with the body on the chassis, thats why i was thinking on a alternate place to put it

Do you have the dash mounted with bolts to the upper dash hoop?

[knuclebuster]

I also decided to go with the ISIS system. I found the installation to be fairly straight forward. I started by deciding all the outputs that I would need(foot box fans, turn signals, heater, seat heaters ect). I used every output that was available on the three cell system, but I also have alot of outputs including a......dare I say........a amplifier and iPod driver........... I also used the RT turn switch, but I wired the button on the end for the horn rather than the flash to pass. The only difference between using the button for the flash to pass or horn is which color input wire you use. Pretty simple. You can feed up to 25 amps on any output and use two outputs together for anything over 25 if my understanding is correct. I also used their wiring harness kit that I found pretty handy for wiring the dash gauges, switches and made a disconectable plug for removing the dash easily. If you need any installation help, just ask.


Todd

[akdreamer23]

Originally Posted by svtjackal

That looks awesome,

I was just thinking on where to put the mastercell and I thought that you could not remove the dash with the body on the chassis, thats why i was thinking on a alternate place to put it

Do you have the dash mounted with bolts to the upper dash hoop?

There are 2 aluminum brackets rivited to the 2x2 crossmember. THe other end bolts to the bottom lip of the dash. They are under tension with the dash tucked under the lip of the body, almost like a torsion bar pushing the dash up. There arent any bolts in the front of the dash. Darn thing does not move a bit.

[svtjackal]

from the pictures, the mastercell looks so cool that I wish that the conections where on the back so it could be mounted on the inside of my glove box or even flush mounted on a center console or dash on full display

[svtjackal]

Originally Posted by akdreamer23

There are 2 aluminum brackets rivited to the 2x2 crossmember. THe other end bolts to the bottom lip of the dash. They are under tension with the dash tucked under the lip of the body, almost like a torsion bar pushing the dash up. There arent any bolts in the front of the dash. Darn thing does not move a bit.

I have Mike Everson's underdash panel, so I guess it can act as the same function of your aluminum brackets and maybe just hold the dash to the upper hoop with some velcro

thanks for the great idea.

[svtjackal]

Bye bye!! Pain in the arse wiring

[akdreamer23]

Nice Pony-car on the left!

[svtjackal]

Originally Posted by akdreamer23

Nice Pony-car on the left!

Yeah that's the donor, 6 volts of pure fire under my right foot

[tirod]

Originally Posted by svtjackal

from the pictures, the mastercell looks so cool that I wish that the conections where on the back so it could be mounted on the inside of my glove box or even flush mounted on a center console or dash on full display

It's what a lot of pro competition cars do. The dash is becoming a collection of displays that are accessible for interfacing. One option of the ISIS system is an Iphone mount that acts as a start button and removable ignition control. Your "key" is your phone.

I've seen Edelbrock Pro Flow XT displays, a net book, and the usual GPS set ups. It's not typical of the Shelby kit yet, electronics came after it's time.

But, that could change.

If it's really meant to be easy to repair - which few racing cars have an abundance of - then the wiring should be right out in front and center, easily accessible - even part of the aesthetic of building.

We've seen the emphasis on hiding it in a lot of custom work, street machiners and tuners "delete" the wiring in the engine bay and route it under the fenders, etc. Wiring is a big part of what makes a car start and run, it's a much bigger part of why old cars won't. I see nothing wrong with routing it right across the dash and down the console, out in the open.

No, that black corrugated stuff isn't what I would use, either.