I just ran across the write-up while doing some research for the new build.
Use at your own risk. I have not verified it.
"...I started with a C5 EBCM and a wiring harness, Ken got them off of Ebay. I'll get you the part numbers. I needed the wiring harness only for the connector that plugs into the EBCM - it is a unique, multi pin connector.
The C5 ABS combines the hydraulics and electronics in the EBCM, so just the one module to mount. I replicated the C5 mounts, with 3 studs that engage rubber donuts in the EBCM, and located it near where the OEM Fbody ABS hydraulic module is located.
The ports on the C5 EBCM are labeled with function
For plumbing, I installed new LS1 Fbody front hardlines, they have a flex section at the ABS end, and the bubble flare fittings are compatible with the C5 EBCM, so just had to bend the hardlines up a bit, and plug them in.
I fabbed up new rear hardlines from the EBCM back to the axle, and used Global West chassis to axle flex lines. I fabbed new axle hard lines.
I put a new LS1 MC and booster on the car, and using a new set of LS MC hardlines as a starting point since the MC fittings are oddball, fabbed new hardlines from the MC to the EBCM. The rear line goes thru a Wilwood bias adjuster.
Red +12V thru a 25A fuse to the alternator
Blk, Blk/Wh Ground to chassis
Brn ign to switched side of ignition circuit - I put a dash switch with pilot light on this connection so the driver can turn the ABS system on/off on the fly.
Lt Blu stop to switched side of stop light circuit
a twisted pair from each wheel sensor:
left rear: Red/Blk
right rear: Wh/Brn
right front: Tan/Grn
left front: Yel/Blu
I salvaged the front hub harnesses, axle wiring harness and the rear bulkhead connector from a 4channel Fbody chassis, made up the rest of the rear twisted pairs.
That's it - no connection to a PCM, so this could go on anything, carb or EFI or whatever
There is no ABS ERR or ABS ACTVE indicators, nor any diagnostic port - those would need to be wired thru a compatible PCM.
Bleeding - connect everything, bleed, leak check, drive it a bit in the paddock, carefully activating ABS, use some water or gravel if necessary, then bleed again. Rinse and repeat. It is important to get the system bled - air in the ABS system will try to kill you - ie pedal stuck to the floor with both fronts locked up. Do not drive it on track or on the street until you are satisfied that the system is fully bled of air..."
Assuming you can weld on a set of exciter rings to the hub of you car (don"t really think the tooth count is important as long as they're the same front and rear), you should be able to use a C5 EBCM on virtually any car.
I also found a great article on putting the C5 ABS in a hot rod.