My Drivers Foot Box Mod

[dv/dt]

Did my driver side foot box mod last night. Kind of a modified Feddersen approach.









First the existing fold is reversed and then the other to folds are made. The new folds extend from the same point at the top as the original bend down to the two lower corners. If done like this the front, top and rear attachment points will stay exactly as they were intended. All of the rivet holes and screws still lined up the same after the mod. Only a small amount had to be trimmed off the lower edge to clear the 4" frame tube.







The ruler shows approximately where the original position was.



If you have a larger engine you can check if this mod will work by running a string from the top bend point to the front lower corner (forward red line in the fifth picture). If the headers, etc. are forward of this line then the mod would work since the position of this portion of the wall is unchanged.

Cheers, Rod

[Tim Burns]

How do you plan on sealing the bottom edge?

[forrest1]

Excellent! Thanks for posting the photos! This makes it very clear.

Forrest

[NAGA]

Great mod Rod!
Looks very easy. Looks like one of those builder-inspired mods FFR should adopt for future kits.

Anything that gets more foot-room is good.

d

[dv/dt]

Tim, I'll make up a 90° filler piece that will go from the 4" tube over to the wall. The upright leg will follow the angle of the wall. That, and a bit of silicone, will seal it right up. I'll post a pic once I've made it up.

Forrest, thanks!

Cheers, Rod

[dv/dt]

Naga, I don't know if this will work with a big block or Mod engine. Perhaps Sergio could do the check I describe and let us know if it would work on the Mods. FFR might be able to supply it with different bends depending on what engine you plan to use since that part (nor any others) does not change shape or attachments. All that would be left is a little trimming if you got this version and a template would be easy enough to make.

Thanks and cheers, Rod

[Jester]

As the emoticon is titled "EEK!"

Why don't you just make a new side piece that follows the brace all the way to the firewall?


(my first negative post)

[dv/dt]

A few reasons:

1. It would require a lot more work and fitting.

2. It would require $'s not only for the aluminium but also my time to run out and get it.

3. My feet are not that big.

4. This way there is a chance (won't know unless someone checks) that the BB and Mod guys could also do it.

5. Because I could.

Cheers, Rod

[Duper]

"Because I could"

the other four don't count!

Good answer , Rod

[dv/dt]

Tim, here are the pics of the piece to fill the gap. I cut off the small extension on the floor panel. I won't final fit/drill it until all the other panels are riveted in place. Will also make a small piece to fill in the small remaining gap at the rear.





Cheers, Rod

[cwood]

Very good Rod! and by the way, that is the longest ratchet extension I have ever seen....any longer and you could build from the living room!

[sgspeed]

Very interesting.

[french-connection]

Excellent.

Nice work. and as everyone can see, it doesn't always have to be expensive.

I have a MKII, are those foot boxes actually wider than MKIII?

Olivier

[dv/dt]

Chuck, that's nothing, changed the tranny on a buddy's MPV last year and we had about 5 feet of extensions to get the bolts at the top of the tranny. Took one of us to feed it up and the other to guide it onto the bolts. He couldn't believe I actually had all those extensions. Thanks!

Olivier, I know that for the Mark III they had to narrow down the foot box to make room for the Mod engines. I am not sure exactly where the Mark II panel went though but it was wider.

Cheers, Rod

[Tim Burns]

Awesome Mod Rod! definately needs to go to handy posts

[Sergio]

Nice Modification...

But...this won't work with the Modular Engines, especially the DOHC.
the engine is 1/4" from the aluminum as it is...

driver's side:


Pass side:




Might work with the BBs....

[CraigS]

Excellent work on the aluminum.Now, while it's easy, throw away that gas pedal and get Larry's or make your own.You need to move the pivot up to just below the 3/4 tube.I hacked,welded etc my stock pedal and finally gave up.Good luck

[Sergio]

Originally posted by CraigS:
Now, while it's easy, throw away that gas pedal and get Larry's

you mean Russ Gas pedal:

[ABC123]

You may want to check out my website. I have a kit that does this. It replaces the side and the top of the foot box and looks very clean and original.

[dv/dt]

Sergio, thanks for the compliment! Man those mod engines are big.

CraigS, already planning to make my own including some pedal covers for the brake and clutch, thanks!

Linwood, seen that and it's a nice kit if your not into playing with metal yourself. I love a challenge and one of the points here was to make a zero cost mod. No new metal is required as even the small filler piece was made from the F-panel blank off plate. Also, ordering things from the US has proven to be a royal pain in the rear with everyone wanting to take a cut.

Cheers, Rod

[CraigS]

Yep-Russ's-Sorry to you Russ.

[J Persons]

dv/dt, have you fit the engine and headers in yet? I'm thinking about using some Thermo Tech insulation on the engine side of the foot box panels, and wondering how much rooom you have between the 4 into 4's and the sheet metal. THX, John

[dv/dt]

J, I won't be installing the engine for another week or two.

Cheers, Rod