65 Mustang Fastback build - Page 5 - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

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post #121 of 129 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 05:07 PM
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Body Cart

Dan: Thanks so much for the PM with the link from VMF on the home built body cart. I was very impressed with the adjustability build into the design. I do not have a welder yet, but am planning on purchasing one later this year. The adjustability is necessary since I will be removing the entire front clip at one point and will need to support the cars weight from the firewall back. As mentioned in the article, a rotisserie will not work in my case either due to my limited 9' ceiling height. A lift looks to be out of the question too since those that I have looked at require 12' minimum ceiling height. So until I find the money to add an additional 2 car section to my garage that has a 14' to 16' ceiling, that option is out too. I included the link to the body cart build so that others can benefit.

Not much progress on the tear down of my '70 Mach 1. I continue to work on the installation of my shop air compressor. The weather has been real cold here this last week, two days of snow with daytime temps in the 30's at best. Next week we will see 50+ every day, thank you Mother Nature! I hope to have the interior gutted next week and will post pictures of what I find.

My Body Cart Build - Vintage Mustang Forums


MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, 255/40-17 F 295/35-17 R Kumho XS, dual roll bars, Kirkey high back seats, paint by Jeff Miller, registered 9/2014.
New project, 1970 Mustang fastback restomod. Started 10/14/16.
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post #122 of 129 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Take a look at the Maxx Jack. One of the members here (edward) has one for sale now, but he's up in Michigan. Would be good for you to talk to him to see how he likes it though...it's a perfect solution for a low ceiling height.

You won't be able to stand up under the car, but it's so easy to get stuff done underneath when your sitting on a rolling seat.

You could build the body cart so your car will sit on the front frame rails and rear frame rails...then it will still work later on.

That's how my car was resting on the cart I have...here's a picture where you can see it.



Dan


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post #123 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Been waiting for my radiator to come back from a friend's shop (getting brackets welded to it), so I figured I would make sure all the trim panels fit. Since so much sheet metal was replaced, I didn't expect it to go in perfect...and I was right.

Here are some of the fit issues I had when I started:

Rear driver side gap


Rear Passenger side was overlapping



After some tweaks to the panels and brackets, I was able to get them to fit better.




This is one of those things that you don't expect to take so long and really slows down the progress. I probably have about 10 hours of work to get them to fit and am doing some modifications to one panel to close up a gap that I can't get closed.

I'm also missing one piece of molding that goes between the upper & lower panels (and they aren't available new...so I have to hunt one down on ebay) and need the 2 pieces that go along the roof (but those are available).

Should have the radiator back tonight, so once that's mocked up, I will probably start getting the engine together so I can drop that in and check for fit issues.

Dan


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post #124 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:17 PM
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Dan: Progress looks good. Since I plan to mini-tub the rear on my 70 Mustang, I will likely fight the same battle as you are one day in the future. Thanks again for the suggestion on the MaxJax, looks like it is a good solution for my 9 ft ceiling height. I plan to purchase one after the spring once I have the barn built for my wife's horse. I have about 2/3 of the Mustang interior removed now. Only the brake booster bolts and pedal box remain on the firewall. I found there was more rust around the driver's side kick panel vent. Nothing too bad that would necessitate replacing the panel, but the area is going to need thorough cleaning and treatment before moving on. Once I have the upper and lower cowl panels removed, I can inspect the inside of these areas and verify they can be saved. All the seam sealer on the car is dried out and flaking away. Hopefully the media blasting will remove what remains and provide a fresh surface for sealing and new sealer. Since I am going to go with Coyote power, anyone know if the pedal box from a late model Mustang will fit. I guess the alternative would be to use the Coyote gas pedal with the existing pedal box. It has been cold up here the last week or so limiting my time in the garage. We have some 60 degree weather later in the week, so I should finish up the interior deconstruction and get pictures posted.

A note, I have been working with the web site administrators to add a new Off Topic category, Other Builds. The category has been approved, just not sure when it will be added. My intent was to add a new category that would highlight non-FFR build efforts.

Alan

MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, 255/40-17 F 295/35-17 R Kumho XS, dual roll bars, Kirkey high back seats, paint by Jeff Miller, registered 9/2014.
New project, 1970 Mustang fastback restomod. Started 10/14/16.
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post #125 of 129 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Check with Modern Driveline to see about using their hydraulic clutch setup...then you can use the existing pedal box (as long as you have a clutch pedal already). I'd use the Coyote drive by wire gas pedal.

Do a search for "roller bearing mod" for the pedal box. It's supposed to make the pedals a lot smoother and reduces the chance that the bushings will wear through. I did it on mine because the bushings were worn out and even a section of the pedal box was ovaled out because of it.

Check your pedal box to make sure it's in good shape...this is what the one I bought looked like.

Dan


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post #126 of 129 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 06:56 PM
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Garage
Dan, you are doing a fantastic job. I still need to meet up with you to get your motor thingy back to you. Maybe this coming up weekend. I'm of Fri sat sun mon

Thanks,
AL Adkins
Stoneville NC.

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post #127 of 129 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Got my radiator back from getting brackets welded to it.

I won't be able to use a standard sized battery in the stock location...so I'm thinking about using a Braille battery (or similar sized one) and making up my own battery tray. I measured and it should fit in the stock battery tray location.


I'll need to trim a bit of metal to get the radiator cap on & off...but I will wait until I mock up the A/C condenser just in case I wind up moving the radiator back a bit for clearance.


I need to add a bit of sheet metal to the top of the radiator opening so I don't have a gap at the top of the radiator. I've already got the sheet metal to use, so I'll get that in soon.

Dan


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Last edited by Dan Babb; 03-16-2017 at 08:12 PM.
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post #128 of 129 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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My welding continues to improve. Learning new skills has been the best part of this project.

Added about 1" to the top of the radiator opening today.
Still need to clean up the engine bay side, but the opening fits the radiator better now.




Dan


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post #129 of 129 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Started fitting the rear valance using tips I found in another build thread at VMF. This part is notorious for not really fitting these cars...especially cars that have had the quarters replaced.

I cut the ends off the rear valance and tacked them to the quarters.
Then welded some sheet metal to hold the panel in position.


Started filling the gap with sheet metal.


Once I get the other side done, I'll take it off and remove the tabs...then fill in the rest of the gaps and fix the spots where I blew through. I'll be able to use a copper sheet for a backer to make filling in the gaps easier.

On the originals, this is a bolt on part, but I'm still thinking I may weld it to the car. I like the cleaner look and I won't have to worry about welding the brackets back onto the backside to hold it in place.

Dan


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