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post #121 of 142 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 05:07 PM
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Body Cart

Dan: Thanks so much for the PM with the link from VMF on the home built body cart. I was very impressed with the adjustability build into the design. I do not have a welder yet, but am planning on purchasing one later this year. The adjustability is necessary since I will be removing the entire front clip at one point and will need to support the cars weight from the firewall back. As mentioned in the article, a rotisserie will not work in my case either due to my limited 9' ceiling height. A lift looks to be out of the question too since those that I have looked at require 12' minimum ceiling height. So until I find the money to add an additional 2 car section to my garage that has a 14' to 16' ceiling, that option is out too. I included the link to the body cart build so that others can benefit.

Not much progress on the tear down of my '70 Mach 1. I continue to work on the installation of my shop air compressor. The weather has been real cold here this last week, two days of snow with daytime temps in the 30's at best. Next week we will see 50+ every day, thank you Mother Nature! I hope to have the interior gutted next week and will post pictures of what I find.

My Body Cart Build - Vintage Mustang Forums


MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, 255/40-17 F 295/35-17 R Kumho XS, dual roll bars, Kirkey high back seats, paint by Jeff Miller, registered 9/2014.
New project, 1970 Mustang fastback restomod. Started 10/14/16.
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post #122 of 142 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Take a look at the Maxx Jack. One of the members here (edward) has one for sale now, but he's up in Michigan. Would be good for you to talk to him to see how he likes it though...it's a perfect solution for a low ceiling height.

You won't be able to stand up under the car, but it's so easy to get stuff done underneath when your sitting on a rolling seat.

You could build the body cart so your car will sit on the front frame rails and rear frame rails...then it will still work later on.

That's how my car was resting on the cart I have...here's a picture where you can see it.



Dan


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post #123 of 142 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Been waiting for my radiator to come back from a friend's shop (getting brackets welded to it), so I figured I would make sure all the trim panels fit. Since so much sheet metal was replaced, I didn't expect it to go in perfect...and I was right.

Here are some of the fit issues I had when I started:

Rear driver side gap


Rear Passenger side was overlapping



After some tweaks to the panels and brackets, I was able to get them to fit better.




This is one of those things that you don't expect to take so long and really slows down the progress. I probably have about 10 hours of work to get them to fit and am doing some modifications to one panel to close up a gap that I can't get closed.

I'm also missing one piece of molding that goes between the upper & lower panels (and they aren't available new...so I have to hunt one down on ebay) and need the 2 pieces that go along the roof (but those are available).

Should have the radiator back tonight, so once that's mocked up, I will probably start getting the engine together so I can drop that in and check for fit issues.

Dan


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post #124 of 142 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:17 PM
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Dan: Progress looks good. Since I plan to mini-tub the rear on my 70 Mustang, I will likely fight the same battle as you are one day in the future. Thanks again for the suggestion on the MaxJax, looks like it is a good solution for my 9 ft ceiling height. I plan to purchase one after the spring once I have the barn built for my wife's horse. I have about 2/3 of the Mustang interior removed now. Only the brake booster bolts and pedal box remain on the firewall. I found there was more rust around the driver's side kick panel vent. Nothing too bad that would necessitate replacing the panel, but the area is going to need thorough cleaning and treatment before moving on. Once I have the upper and lower cowl panels removed, I can inspect the inside of these areas and verify they can be saved. All the seam sealer on the car is dried out and flaking away. Hopefully the media blasting will remove what remains and provide a fresh surface for sealing and new sealer. Since I am going to go with Coyote power, anyone know if the pedal box from a late model Mustang will fit. I guess the alternative would be to use the Coyote gas pedal with the existing pedal box. It has been cold up here the last week or so limiting my time in the garage. We have some 60 degree weather later in the week, so I should finish up the interior deconstruction and get pictures posted.

A note, I have been working with the web site administrators to add a new Off Topic category, Other Builds. The category has been approved, just not sure when it will be added. My intent was to add a new category that would highlight non-FFR build efforts.

Alan

MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, 255/40-17 F 295/35-17 R Kumho XS, dual roll bars, Kirkey high back seats, paint by Jeff Miller, registered 9/2014.
New project, 1970 Mustang fastback restomod. Started 10/14/16.
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post #125 of 142 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Check with Modern Driveline to see about using their hydraulic clutch setup...then you can use the existing pedal box (as long as you have a clutch pedal already). I'd use the Coyote drive by wire gas pedal.

Do a search for "roller bearing mod" for the pedal box. It's supposed to make the pedals a lot smoother and reduces the chance that the bushings will wear through. I did it on mine because the bushings were worn out and even a section of the pedal box was ovaled out because of it.

Check your pedal box to make sure it's in good shape...this is what the one I bought looked like.

Dan


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post #126 of 142 (permalink) Old 03-06-2017, 06:56 PM
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Dan, you are doing a fantastic job. I still need to meet up with you to get your motor thingy back to you. Maybe this coming up weekend. I'm of Fri sat sun mon

Thanks,
AL Adkins
Stoneville NC.

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post #127 of 142 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Got my radiator back from getting brackets welded to it.

I won't be able to use a standard sized battery in the stock location...so I'm thinking about using a Braille battery (or similar sized one) and making up my own battery tray. I measured and it should fit in the stock battery tray location.


I'll need to trim a bit of metal to get the radiator cap on & off...but I will wait until I mock up the A/C condenser just in case I wind up moving the radiator back a bit for clearance.


I need to add a bit of sheet metal to the top of the radiator opening so I don't have a gap at the top of the radiator. I've already got the sheet metal to use, so I'll get that in soon.

Dan


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Last edited by Dan Babb; 03-16-2017 at 08:12 PM.
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post #128 of 142 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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My welding continues to improve. Learning new skills has been the best part of this project.

Added about 1" to the top of the radiator opening today.
Still need to clean up the engine bay side, but the opening fits the radiator better now.




Dan


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post #129 of 142 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Started fitting the rear valance using tips I found in another build thread at VMF. This part is notorious for not really fitting these cars...especially cars that have had the quarters replaced.

I cut the ends off the rear valance and tacked them to the quarters.
Then welded some sheet metal to hold the panel in position.


Started filling the gap with sheet metal.


Once I get the other side done, I'll take it off and remove the tabs...then fill in the rest of the gaps and fix the spots where I blew through. I'll be able to use a copper sheet for a backer to make filling in the gaps easier.

On the originals, this is a bolt on part, but I'm still thinking I may weld it to the car. I like the cleaner look and I won't have to worry about welding the brackets back onto the backside to hold it in place.

Dan


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post #130 of 142 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 01:18 AM Thread Starter
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My uncle is coming to town so we can go to the Charlotte Auto Fair and is going to help me get my engine/trans together and in the car to make sure everything fits.

Was getting my adjustable motor mounts together and one freaking bolt hits my power steering rack lines. This sucks!



And it still needs to go in a bit more.


I don't think I have enough room to shorten the bolt and still have it stick out past the nyloc nut...will check that out just to be sure before I drop the rack.


Dan


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post #131 of 142 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 12:37 PM
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I have the same mounts, be sure and check the shorter bolts that hold the upper parts of the mount. On mine they were also too short to allow the any washers to be installed.

John

Dynacorn '67 Fastback, Dart 363, Magnum 6 speed, 3.7 ratio 9", Eaton Truetrac. It's in pieces but will be together, sometime.
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post #132 of 142 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Those bolts are good. The kit comes with a square 'washer plate' to attach the round mount to the block plate.

Dan


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post #133 of 142 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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Realized I would be able to get the lines off the rack, so I got this minor problem solved today.


Dan


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post #134 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Been working on installing the rear-seat-delete panel.

Had some trimming to do...mainly because of having to add spacers to get the gaps in my side trim panels to look right.

Here's how it looks as of last night.



I have some boxes (flywheel & clutch) on the front to hopefully get the fiberglass to settle into it's new position.

The wheel bulge will push back so it will sit flush once I get some bolts installed. It leans a bit forward now:




Maybe hitting the curved edge where it bends up with a heat gun (or just letting it sit in the sun for a while once it's bolted in place) will help.

Maybe it's because the tire is just a hair too big for the bulge, but in order to get the tire back in the bulge, I have to put something to lift the front up a bit.


I guess I could pull the tire forward a bit till it sits flat. Have plenty of time to decide.

Way down the road, but I'm thinking of building a box behind the panel to mount speakers. I could put some plain black speaker grills on the face of the panel for the sound to come through. Placement of speaker grills where the blue tape is:


With the seats in place, I don't think the speaker grills will be as noticeable, but I think it would sound better than having 2 smaller speakers in the kick panel. Plenty of time to decide on stuff like this.

Dan


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post #135 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 05:58 PM
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Dan you definitely get an A+ for sticking too it and another A+ for the rapid advances in your body welding skill. I have helped a few times on a 65 restoration and have no interest in these old cars any longer. Compared to today's cars, to me, they were junk when they were brand new, and only get worse over the years. A lot of what you are doing is not just fixing years of decline but also fixing factory stuff that was OK then but no where near OK now. Great work and I can't wait to see the end result. I like to admire them as long as someone else did all the work.

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post #136 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Craig.

There have been many days when I wish I would have gotten an FFR Coupe and have wanted to throw a can of gas on the mustang.

Nothing fits and every 'bolt-in' upgrade is a real pain in the ass.

But I won't give up...my wife would never let me live down the financial hit if I sold it off as an unfinished project car. Hopefully it drives nicer than stock when I'm done so I will actually enjoy it.

Dan


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post #137 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Got the engine & transmission installed today.



Dropped the engine in first...then installed the transmission from underneath. It was a lot more work than I thought, but we got it in. I might invest in one of those tall standing transmission jacks to make the final install a lot easier.

I have a stock style rubber transmission mount.


I could use one that's just a bit shorter because the top of the transmission just barely clears the tunnel support brace. I can just squeeze a medium zip tie between the gap.

Any ideas on a T5 transmission mount that would be shorter?

I have the Ron Morris engine mounts....this is how the front/back spacing looks on the mount (302 engine).
Driver side:


Passenger side:


I haven't measured for my driveline angle yet...I know that will change if I get a different transmission mount.

Dan


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post #138 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Spent yesterday fitting the metal trim molding that goes between the upper & lower trim panels. Also fit the 2 metal roof trim panels.


Worked a bit on the rear deck too. Screws will be replaced with machine bolts once I get the edges sanded so it fits better.




Dan


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post #139 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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Test fit the shifter and cut a bit of sheet metal so I'd have 1/2" of clearance.





Had to see how the Hurst stick looked on it.


The shifter is tapped for 5/16" bolts but the handle has holes for 3/8" bolts. Wonder if I can find a collar to take up the gap?

Gonna have to figure out which shift boot & trim ring to use..I don't think the stock sized one won't fit around the Pro5.0 shifter. That's a challenge for a day far off in the future

Dan


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post #140 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 12:45 AM
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I have this one that MDL sent me: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/huu-1148429
but I'm looking for something with a little better quality. The hold down plate is thin, and the shifter opening is round and not rectangular to fit the shift handle, but it is big enough to cover the hole.

John

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post #141 of 142 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 02:12 AM
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Looking good Dan

Thanks,
AL Adkins
Stoneville NC.

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post #142 of 142 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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65 Mustang Fastback build

Fiberglass work sucks

Added some glass to fill in some gaps in the rear seat delete panel.

Before
ImageUploadedByAG Free1492864567.662974.jpg

Going to take it out today to make it look good
ImageUploadedByAG Free1492864608.460970.jpg


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

Dan


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