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post #61 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 01:33 PM
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Dan, Fox seats are not tough at all. Done about a half dozen of them over the years, including drilling the seat frames for the vintage tracks to make them a bolt on. I'm going to be in NC a couple of times this year to visit my grandfather (Moorseville/Statesville area) and I'll be in Kannapolis in October for the big Foxtoberfest Fox Mustang show. If you want to connect when I'm up your way I can help you do the seats.

Check out TMI Products. They have all manner of upholstery options for the Fox, including a vintage look with the "Pony" running horses in the seatback. They can do custom stitching/piping, embroidery. Your heart's desire really. They also have new Fox foam (it will be needed) and they even have "Sport" and "SportXR" options with deeper bolstering, embedded headrest, etc. using their own foam.

Check out this story I've done for some details:

Fox seats in a '68 (includes track mod): Late-Model Mustang Seat Swap - Mustang Monthly Magazine

TMI's website shows a lot of options, or check out TMI's ad in our late-model book Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords.

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post #62 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Mark...thanks for the link.


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post #63 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-25-2016, 11:32 AM
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May get some ideas here
1967 Mustang Resto Mod

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post #64 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-27-2016, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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Still waiting for some parts to arrive so I can get the suspension installed.

I'm still not sure if I'm going to do a side or rear exhaust, so I figured I would put the floor reinforcements in place just in case I go out the back. It's a lot easier to get these in now before I spray sound-deadener on the floor.



I'm also doing some prep-work in the engine bay so I can spray it with a satin black epoxy primer...but no pictures to show for that work. It's the basic sand/fill/inspect/repeat process we're all used to.

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post #65 of 144 (permalink) Old 07-01-2016, 01:22 PM
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Even with side exhaust you'd use those mounting points to support the rear of the muffler, so you're not wasting your time or money installing those muffler hanger reinforcements Dan!

Mark

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2007: 2/25 first go-cart, 4/15 leaves for paint, 8/24 paint prep begins, 12/10 paint work completed

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post #66 of 144 (permalink) Old 07-04-2016, 02:05 AM Thread Starter
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Been getting the engine bay ready for paint. Going to try the Eastwood satin Chassis Black. Figure I can do it at home and if it doesn't come out ok, I can sand it down and let a body shop do it over.

Still obsessing over smoothing down some minor areas that were pitted. To get rid of these imperfections, do I need a different filler or am I just not sanding it down enough? I've been using Metal to Metal filler

ImageUploadedByAG Free1467597773.884070.jpg

Most of it looks pretty good to me.
ImageUploadedByAG Free1467597850.025214.jpg



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post #67 of 144 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Bit more sanding helped even things out.

First coat of Eastwood chassis black satin is on. Should even out after the second coat.

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post #68 of 144 (permalink) Old 07-11-2016, 12:07 PM
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Looking good. Is that paint in a rattle can or do you use a sprayer?

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post #69 of 144 (permalink) Old 07-11-2016, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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It's Eastwood's rattle can.
Extreme Chassis BlackSatin 14 oz Aerosol ? Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Paint

The spray comes out nice & even...probably one of the best I've ever used. But at $17 a can (on sale), you're paying for it.

I'll probably use the same stuff to paint the rear axle. I would have used it on the spindles too, but I already painted those with the VHT rollbar & chassis spray can.

Dan


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post #70 of 144 (permalink) Old 07-20-2016, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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65 Mustang Fastback build

Test fit the front coil-over suspension from Control Freaks.

Waiting for steering rack so I can finish up the front and rear parts so I can fit and weld the rear axle brackets.



ImageUploadedByAG Free1469055364.611235.jpg

ImageUploadedByAG Free1469055378.096370.jpg


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post #71 of 144 (permalink) Old 07-21-2016, 12:14 AM
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Dan-

She's looking sharp! I really like the way that the engine bay paint turned out.

Let me know if you need an extra set of hands some time. I need to stop by and check things out.

Regards,

Steve
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post #72 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Got the fox body seats modified for the stock mustang rails and fit them in the car.

Took measurements and cut the harness bar to fit between the roll bar tubes.

Waiting for the mounting tabs to show up and then I can finish up the roll bar.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1470344754.842955.jpg

The picture is deceiving...the bar is just below the top of the seat back ( so it will be safe for short passengers) and with me in the driver seat, it's about 9 degrees down from the top of my shoulders.


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post #73 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 09:27 PM
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I've been scouring e bay for some Fox seats, but they all want way too much for them considering the wear and tear, and by the time I get new foam and upholstery, I could have bought a pair of Recaro's for about the same money.

John

Dynacorn '67 Fastback, Dart 363, Magnum 6 speed, 3.7 ratio 9", Eaton Truetrac. It's in pieces but will be together, sometime.
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post #74 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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I probably could have gone with some ProCar seats for around the same total cost, but a lot of guys say the fox seats are more comfortable.

I paid $100 for these. The foam is all good, but obviously need new covers.


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post #75 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016, 01:19 AM
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Dan, looking really good. After I get my mess done, I'll ride out there

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post #76 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Al...come on by anytime. We'll grab lunch on Franklin Street. Grab Jeff on your way and drag him out here with you...he needs to check it out to give me a quote for paint.

This doesn't look like much progress, but I welded in the removable harness bar tabs. My welding is getting better with each piece.

I need to remove the bar to put a bead on the inside of the brackets and clean up the welds a bit. Even with the seats installed, I can get the whole rollbar out in one piece (which was my goal).







Anyone have an idea how thick powdercoating usually is? I used some painters tape to try to create a bit of a gap between the bar & tabs, but it's still a snug fit. I'll need to grind away some metal for a bit more clearance, but don't know how much I need.

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post #77 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016, 01:35 PM
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Dan, powder coating can be anywhere from 2 to 10 mils thick, depending on application. If the PC is decorative, it will be on the low end, probably 2 to 5 mils. (1 mil is .001" thick)
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John

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post #78 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Sure am glad that I'm mocking everything up before paint. Seems like every piece (even things that I thought would be a quick bolt-in) needs to be tweaked.

I installed the Scott Drake 1" sway bar last night. The brackets needed some grinding an widening of the holes to line up. But it was probably the easiest part I've put on the car so far.


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post #79 of 144 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 11:18 AM
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post #80 of 144 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Other than needing to get different bearings for the hubs, the front disc kit from Wilwood is going in easy.
I'm using a drop spindle and didn't realize that the "pin" is based on a 1970 model which is thicker than the 65 spindle.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1473629699.899780.jpg

Expecting to get my gears very soon, so I made a cradle that will make positioning the rear axle a one-man job. I will be able to tilt the housing to get the right pinion angle too.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1473629768.691176.jpg




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post #81 of 144 (permalink) Old 09-11-2016, 09:41 PM
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Nice! Who built your 9" housing?

John

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post #82 of 144 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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It's from Moser. It's their stock replacement 9" housing.


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post #83 of 144 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 01:07 AM
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I've found it's much easier to assemble the 3d member to the housing if the housing is rotated so the mounting surface is up. It's a lot easier to just set the 3d member on the studs than to try and wrestle it into position. You will also need a torque wrench adapter to torque the lower nuts when assembling the housing to the 3d member, there is simply not enough room around the pinion support area to get a socket on.

John

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post #84 of 144 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips. I don't have my gears yet anyway (been waiting for them to ship for a while), so I'm going to get the axle housing positioned before I put the third-member on.

Once the brackets are welded, it will be easy to assemble it the way you suggest.

Dan


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post #85 of 144 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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I'm done with the front suspension, so time to work on the rear. Still no gears, so I made some 'wheels' out of plywood. They're 24" in diameter and using a template I found online, they're bolted to the axle housing pretty close to dead-center.



This is just a rough fit. The plumb bob is hanging with the wheelbase measured at 108" and the 'wheel' is pretty close to centered right on that line. Does it look right to you or should it be back a bit more?

The wood I have clamped across the bottom is so I can get a measurement from the bottom of the rocker to the ground. Should be able to figure out my ride height using that for reference.


I haven't messed with the left/right position. I might cut some 'windows' in my wheel so I can easily measure each side using the frame rail as a reference..but I think visually I should probably measure from the fender lip to the wood wheel to determine if the housing is centered. I think it's more important that it look right with each fender lip than to be perfect where people can't see it.


I think I'm going to draw in a 17" circle to simulate the wheel...that way I can see where the wheel rim will be in relation to the fender.

I need to move the dolly forward (or get it off the dolly and onto jack stands) before I can weld any brackets, so I'm going to try to find some help this weekend to do that. Then I can get serious about the axle position.

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post #86 of 144 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 09:04 PM
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Chip Foose would be happy with you.

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post #87 of 144 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Got the rear end brackets tacked in place and welded on the housing.

Should be able to get the rear end assembled now and will be able to measure for wheels soon.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1476045782.312502.jpg

ImageUploadedByAG Free1476045796.962806.jpg




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post #88 of 144 (permalink) Old 10-09-2016, 08:58 PM
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That's some nice looking welds there, you should be proud!

John

Dynacorn '67 Fastback, Dart 363, Magnum 6 speed, 3.7 ratio 9", Eaton Truetrac. It's in pieces but will be together, sometime.
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post #89 of 144 (permalink) Old 10-30-2016, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Rear end is assembled and installed.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1477861218.289832.jpg

ImageUploadedByAG Free1477861236.396447.jpg

Next I will order tires and will find someone to rent a wheel measuring tool from ( just to make sure I get the wheel fit perfect since I want a couple inch drop).

Once I have the wheels, I can move the car over to my lift so I can trial fit brake and fuel lines before coating the underside with sound deadener and then doing the sound & heat coating on the inside.


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post #90 of 144 (permalink) Old 10-30-2016, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Babb View Post
Rear end is assembled and installed.

Attachment 273593

Attachment 273601

Next I will order tires and will find someone to rent a wheel measuring tool from ( just to make sure I get the wheel fit perfect since I want a couple inch drop).

Once I have the wheels, I can move the car over to my lift so I can trial fit brake and fuel lines before coating the underside with sound deadener and then doing the sound & heat coating on the inside.


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Here ya go. Wheel Fit tool
Wheel Fit RENTAL (Ultimate Kit) - $49.99 : 1320 Wheels

I have the Percys Wheel Rite tool, and it's not all it's cracked up to be, the one in the link is much better.

John

Dynacorn '67 Fastback, Dart 363, Magnum 6 speed, 3.7 ratio 9", Eaton Truetrac. It's in pieces but will be together, sometime.
'14 Taurus SHO. Most all the bells and whistles.

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