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post #31 of 144 (permalink) Old 02-13-2016, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Spent the week getting the seat risers ready to weld in. Have both of them done (had to do some beating and bending on the driver's side to get it to sit flat.

This shows the passenger side, but both sides are done now. I also sprayed the areas to be welded with a weld-thru primer.


I ordered all of the suspension, steering and 9" rear today. Also ordered the dynacorn 2 piece front torque boxes the other day. I also talked to a guy who makes a roll bar in the style of the original shelby bar the other day and am getting one of those. Mostly so I have a place to mount the seat belts…but also for the look. I'm going to add a brace behind the side panels, but it's not going to be anything like the cage Chris has.

Big hit to my build savings account, but I should be able to call it a roller after I get the stuff all installed.


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post #32 of 144 (permalink) Old 02-15-2016, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Got the seat risers welded in.

My welds aren't pretty, but they are solid. Got good penetration through the floor pan and didn't blow any holes through it. I put the plug weld holes about 1 1/2" apart, so I hopefully that will help make up for the spots where the holes aren't 100% full of metal.



I'd need more practice before I'm comfortable with some of the other things that need welding (going to shore up the shock towers and have a shelby style roll bar coming soon), but I'll keep at it.


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post #33 of 144 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 12:02 AM
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Looks great Dan! Wish I would have seen this earlier, as some folks cut down the seat risers a bit so your head's not so close to the ceiling... One thing I don't like about the seats in mine... ed

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post #34 of 144 (permalink) Old 02-16-2016, 01:06 AM Thread Starter
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I'm 5'10", but have long legs and a short torso. I did a trial fit with the ratty stock seats I got with the car and I have about 5" of headroom. I am going to use aftermarket seats, but from what I've read, I shouldn't lose any headroom.

I'm going to use a one piece headliner that mounts close to the roof skin, so I should have most of that when I'm done too.




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post #35 of 144 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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I'm installing front torque boxes to stiffen up the frame. Started on the passenger side last Friday and finished it up tonight.

ImageUploadedByAG Free1456976428.865382.jpg

Taking a short vacation to see the nascar race is Vegas this weekend, so I will tackle the driver side next.




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post #36 of 144 (permalink) Old 03-14-2016, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Driver side torque box installed.

This side when a bit quicker and my welding skills are improving as I go. Still not good enough to want them to be in an area of the car that would be seen...but better than when I started this project a short time ago.



Found a motor for the car. Bought it a bit early, but it was a good deal, so I pulled the trigger.

It's a 302 with Dart Iron Eagle Heads and a Holly carb. It has a bit over 3,000 miles on it and is complete from carb to pan. It's only rated at 305hp...but it came out of a running Backdraft Cobra that's getting a major performance upgrade, so it should be a problem free starting point for me.

For now, this is what my budget would support. I figured as a future winter project (after the car is done), I could always pull it out and make a stroker out of it if I wanted more power.

I'll still need the trans & bellhousing, but I can watch the ads for a good deal while I work on other stuff.

Dan


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post #37 of 144 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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I'm installing a Shelby style roll bar. It doesn't do much for chassis stiffening or rollover protection, but it will give me a place to mount a 5 point harness and it has the vintage look I'm going for.



The bar came with brackets and was supposed to be a close fit, but since my car had the floors replaced, it didn't fit that well. So I cut off the lower mount and am making mounts from scratch. Found the idea on the Mustangs to Fear website.

This shows the gap at the bottom.


Here's the mount on the driver side tacked to the floor.



First time notching tube…fit came out pretty good. Found a couple of videos on youtube and practiced on a piece of scrap tube I bought at the recycling yard first…then dove in with the real thing.

Here's the passenger side with the lower mount welded in and the rear leg cut and ready to weld.


My welds still won't win any beauty contests, but I'm getting better at it.

After I get seats, I'll mount them so I can put the cross-bar for the belts in the right spot. I'll make the cross bar removable too in case I need to get into the back of the car for anything.

Dan


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post #38 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
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Been keeping busy doing things until the suspension pieces arrive.

My night vision isn't very good (laser treatments to treat retinopathy from being diabetic ruins the night vision), so getting the weld torch in the right spot hasn't been easy. I made up a small flashlight holder that attaches to the handle and it helps a whole bunch (and it's not in the way).



I know there's a tool made for this, but I couldn't find it online and this one was free - even the flashlight was a freebie at Harbor Freight last week.


I welded up some parts of the shock towers for extra strength. Here's the passenger side.


Dan


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post #39 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 02:48 AM
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Looking good! Love the Harbor freight flashlight. I try to get that or a tape measure every sunday!

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post #40 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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Welded the from frame rails to help keep things together a bit better.

The passenger side section area where the upper & lower control arms will straddle the frame (where the shock tower is) needed more work than the driver side. But I was able to get in there nicely with my welding torch and get a series of good tacks & short beads in there.

I seam sealed the driver side too...waiting for more to come via Amazon so I can do the passenger side and finish up some spots on the driver side frame.

Passenger Side


Driver Side



Dan


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post #41 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 07:13 PM
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That light is a good idea Dan. Do you have an auto-darkening helmet? I often aim a standup flashlight where I need to see but it sometimes affects the auto-darkening so it darkens before I get into position. Any problem w/ you torch mounted light? I also have trouble, especially w/ on the car stuff where it is an awkward position w/ my glasses sliding down my nose so I am looking through the long distance top half. This getting old crap sucks doesn't it?

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post #42 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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I have an auto darkening helmet I picked up from harbor freight a few years ago. It has a dial for the settings. Would a helmet from a better brand make a difference?

Even at it's lowest setting of 9, I have a hard time seeing the 'seam' where I want the weld puddle to follow. I can do short beads OK, but when I try to go longer than 1" or so, the puddle will wander and then it looks like crap when I have to go back and fill in.

I don't have any problems with the light on the torch effecting the auto-darkening functionality. The flashlight doesn't always hit the right spot, but it's a lot better than trying to use a standup or magnetic flashlight and constantly having to move it around.

I found this on Summit, but I think the one I made throws more light (since it has 9 leds)
Steck LED MIG Lights 23240 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing


I also wear glasses with bi-focal lenses...so it can be a pain to get the eyes focused if the glasses slide a bit.

Dan


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post #43 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 12:31 AM
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Looking good Dan. Do you know brand of your replacement door? How's the fit? Thanks...

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post #44 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure about the doors...I'll see if I can find a sticker on them. Only one is on the car and I took the fenders off, so not sure how they fit yet.


Since the floors have been replaced, I need to get in the brackets for the trim panels. I welded in the floor brackets and am still trying to figure out the ones that hold in the upper panels.



You may have seen my other post about fiberglass repair...but here's how the interior quarter panel looks in the car now. Not sure about the final colors I'll use on the car, so this is just a temporary coat of paint to help keep the repair sealed.



Speaking of colors, I have a long time before I'm ready for paint, but I was thinking about colors yesterday. I really would like a lighter interior...maybe grey trim & carpet with black front seats. I might paint the outside yellow and do titanium stripes. Saw this combination online of an older Boyd Coddington build.

[/QUOTE]

Dan


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post #45 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-24-2016, 11:02 PM
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Dan-

The build is looking good, and that color is outstanding!! I think it would look terrific.

Your welding is coming along nicely, and I really like the creative lighting solution.

Great score on the engine too. Keep up the good work!

Regards,

Steve
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post #46 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-25-2016, 01:05 AM
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I really like that color combination.

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post #47 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 12:44 PM
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I did my FFR interior in a silver carpet and really like it. Sorry but i didn't save the carpet source.

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post #48 of 144 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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On my first FFR, I used a silver carpet too and use black seats...I thought the combination looked nice.



I'll try to find something that goes well with the stripe color I use

Dan


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post #49 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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While I was down in Brunswick for the DSCC Spring Cruise, I picked up the motor for my Mustang. It's a 302 with dart iron eagle heads that came out of a Backdraft. It only had 3k miles on it and the price was right, so I bought it even though I won't need it for quite a while.

Got it home and cleaned it up a bit, sprayed some fogging oil in the cylinders and turned it over a few times, then sealed it up for storage.



On Saturday morning, we were all at a car show supporting the Miranda Faith Foundation and I saw a nice looking 66 that has the stance I'm going for. This one has adjustable shocks in the front and reverse eye leafs to get around a 2" drop.





He had 17" wheels in front and 18" in back. I'm still up in the air on my wheels, but it's nice to see that this combination fits and looked good.

Dan


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post #50 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 12:46 PM Thread Starter
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Found some fox body mustang seats for the car. These are a pretty common 'upgrade' over the vintage seats. Since the original seats I have would need to be recovered anyway, using these will give me a better feeling seat (that won't look out of place) for about the same money.



I'm going to call around to see what the total cost will be to recover these...if it winds up costing more than expected, then I'll just flip these on craigslist and will buy some ProCar seats that will be ready to drop in.


I finished welding and seam sealing the front end, so I used some bedliner on the inner fenders. This will give it better long-term protection from the elements and adds a bit of sound-deadening to the sheet metal too (not that anyone would really be tapping the inner fender from the engine bay side.

I did this part now so I can mock up the front suspension and leave it there when I eventually get the car on the road and drive around in primer for a while (before I tear it down for paint).





Now I'm working on doing some welding on the back end of the car (improving the welds on the wheel housings and getting the 4 link brackets tacked to the frame).

Dan


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post #51 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 12:25 PM
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Are there upholstery kits available? Get a pair of hog or pig ring pliers and a box of rings and I think you will find it's not that hard to do yourself.

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post #52 of 144 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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There are videos online about how to change the seat covers...at the pace I work, it would probably take me 4x longer than a pro and I'm not sure if it's worth the amount of frustration.

I've got a while to think about it, so I'll see how my mood (and budget overage) are looking when I need to deal with it.

Dan


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post #53 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 10:54 PM
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Dan, For your upper roll bar/seatbelt mount, Tony Banda has a unique bolt that will bolt the roll bar in and also the upper seat belt mount. These are designed for a '67 and up but will probably work for your car. Part number S3021, $13.95

John

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post #54 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-04-2016, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Did you buy that part? Their site doesn't have a picture and would like to see what it is?

I had a badly pitted section of the frame. Looks like brake fluid ate away the paint and allowed water to rust it away. So I welded in a patch piece. First time doing this type of repair...thought it came out pretty good.

Before

ImageUploadedByAG Free1465073825.651836.jpg

After
ImageUploadedByAG Free1465073838.987615.jpg

Couldn't grind too well along the outside edge, so I will use some seam sealer just to make sure I didn't leave any holes for water to get in


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post #55 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-04-2016, 10:24 PM
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Dan, here's a photo of the Banda upper roll bar/seatbelt attachment bolt, I think it's just a longer seat belt bolt along with a steel spacer. Don't bother with the rubber roll bar grommets that fit in the side panels, they are designed to fit with the rubber coating that is on the Shelby bar.

John

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post #56 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 05:40 PM
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Hey Man,

I just saw your post. I went through a similar build recently.

I painted it with the GT350 scheme. I love those lemans stripes! Sapphire blue and artic white stripes.

For motor, I kept the 289; I ported the steel heads, cast roller rockers, xe256 cam, holley single plane intake, 600cfm double pumper, headers.

Other items that I added: Classic auto air with AC.

For front suspension, I went with classic setup, Shelby drop, Randalls rack, 1” sway bar, kyb gas adjusts, opentrackers strut bars, Granada front spindles with discs, monte carlo and export brace, contour springs - 1/3 cut off to get the ride height. I am running BFG Radials with 15” torq thrust.
For rear, I replaced the leafs, poly bushings, 9” rear from varsailles.

One complaint that I have with this car is that I can’t put fat tires without doing some surgery or jacking the car. My buddy has the 67 and he fit 275’s with no issues. If I had to do it again, I would have not gone with the randalls rack. You loose turning radius… The rear suspension needs attention, I am thinking of going with mair racing springs and bilstein shocks. I will also install caltracs.

The things that really made the ride feel nice is the 1’ sway.
Drop me a PM if you need to bounce some ideas around. Cheers and good luck with your build.
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post #57 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks...would love to see some pictures of your build. Do you have a thread online?

Dan


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post #58 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-08-2016, 08:14 PM
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here are some pictures. since then i have the engine in and already attended some shows.



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post #59 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-08-2016, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Looks great.

Been thinking about doing the quarter-windows for better visibility...but I really like the look of the vents, so I think I'll put up with the blind spot.

Dan


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post #60 of 144 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 01:24 PM
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Garage
Looking good Dan.

Thanks,
AL Adkins
Stoneville NC.

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