Finally ordered my new block!!!

[ehodger]

I finally did it. I have been on the fence about what to do for an engine since before I started my build. After 1 summer with the engine that came with the unassembled kit I finally made a decision and ordered my new block yesterday. I was really torn between a 9.5" or a 8.2". I ended up ordering the 8.2" 4.125" bore Dart. Now I can start saving for a rotating assembly. Pretty sure I will be going with Scat for that. I have heard a lot of bad things about Eagle. I will probably call Gordon when I get ready for a cam and heads but your input is always welcome. It is mainly a street car so good street manners are important but when the go fast pedal gets pushed it needs to be violent.

[Wade Chamberlain]

SHP?

I like Scat better than Eagle too. Check the crank carefully though....I used a Scat forged steel crank in my Dart SHP 347 and wiped out 2 thrust bearings because Scat didn't do a good job of polishing the thrust surface on the #3 main. If yours looks like a starburst, polish it!

[2FAST4U]

SCAT forged ultra light crank
Steel H-beam rods
Ross pistons
Teflon coated skirts
Brodix heads
Stack injection

[Gordon Levy]

I beam rods are better for road racing.

[ehodger]

Originally Posted by Gordon Levy

I beam rods are better for road racing.

I probably will not be doing any road racing. I would like to try auto x and I am sure some trips to the strip will be a necessity but like I said mainly a street car. I guess I want it all or as close as I can get. Good drivability on the street, all the power I could want, durability and good enough mileage that at $4.00 a gallon for premium I can still drive it.

That shouldn't be to much to ask for should it?

[Gordon Levy]

Nope, not to much to ask. Your engine package will work really nice.

[ehodger]

Originally Posted by Gordon Levy

Nope, not to much to ask. Your engine package will work really nice.

Glad to hear! I can't wait to get the short block assembled so I can call you and get started on the top end!!

[ehodger]

Thinking about ordering my rotating assembly next week, Scat fully forged. My favorite machine shop is closing at the end of the year and I want to get the short block done before then. I am planning on 0.00" deck, flat tops with 4 cc valve reliefs. Just trying to plan ahead, I am running shorty's and j-tubes with an RPM AIR GAP manifold. Will these parts work with the head and cam combo that you have in mind for what I am looking for? I was hoping to reuse the headers and Manifold, but if I can't, I can't.

[Gordon Levy]

Give me a call on Monday. I can get you a very good deal on the rotating assy. You will really want to port match the intake. I have done a ton of dyno work on these engines with different intakes. On a pump gas 347 with a moderate cam I made 400rwhp in my roadster using a ported RPM intake and a 1" open spacer. Gave a really nice flat torque curve and a power curve that didn't drop off until 6400 revs.

[ehodger]

Just got off the phone with Gordon. 363 rotating assembly is ordered. I can't wait until I can order my top end!

[Don Payne]

Originally Posted by Wade Chamberlain

SHP?

I like Scat better than Eagle too. Check the crank carefully though....I used a Scat forged steel crank in my Dart SHP 347 and wiped out 2 thrust bearings because Scat didn't do a good job of polishing the thrust surface on the #3 main. If yours looks like a starburst, polish it!

FWIW, the thrust bearing needs clearanced. You should not just slap it in. If you do, there will virtually be zero crank end play. BTW, nice block dude.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.com App

[ehodger]

Originally Posted by Don Payne

FWIW, the thrust bearing needs clearanced. You should not just slap it in. If you do, there will virtually be zero crank end play. BTW, nice block dude.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.com App

Thanks for the heads up. I will have the machinist check that when it goes for final honing, balancing and ring gap filing.

[Wade Chamberlain]

Originally Posted by Don Payne

FWIW, the thrust bearing needs clearanced. You should not just slap it in. If you do, there will virtually be zero crank end play. BTW, nice block dude.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide.com App

It wasn't a clearance issue. I had .0065" endplay.

[ehodger]

Is there a good site online to download all of the specs and clearances so I can check everything as I assemble the short block? Rotating assembly should be here from Gordon on Monday or Tuesday. SFI aluminum flywheel and damper from Summit should be here on Tuesday. Then everything can go to the machine shop. Hoping to start assembling the short block sometime in December.

[VdubJoe]

Here is a very good forum site for Small block Fords. Lots of info.
SBFTECH.com Experienced Small Block Ford Tech - Index

Also another good site but its pay only is SBFBuilding.com Small block ford engine building video site videos are great.
Jim Woods is very knowledgeable and willing to help answer any questions.

Joe

[ehodger]

Hi Gordon,

Starting to think about the top end. I might be a little ahead of myself. I don't even have my rotating assy yet, hopefully this week. we talked a couple of times and you said with a 1" spacer and port matching I should be able to put 400 hp to the wheels with my current Air Gap RPM manifold. You also said I could get 550 from it wondering what my options are and the costs involved. 550 would be awesome, I am assuming that is at the flywheel. I want it to remain streetable and still be able to pass the occasional service station.

[Gordon Levy]

It really depends on how much maintenance you want to do. To get the 550 flywheel we will need to run a solid roller cam and super victor intake and a larger cylinder head. We can get 500 pretty easily with a hydraulic roller and properly matched heads.
Give me a call and we can talk over all the options.

[ehodger]

Talked to Gordon today about the top end, I am pretty stoked. The rotating assy. should be here any day so the short block should be done some time in January. We talked about all the options for this engine and it sounds like RHS 200cc heads, stage 5.5 cam, Victor Jr and a 750 QF. I sure hope Santa is good to me this year!

[ehodger]

Just curious Gordon, what intake gaskets do you recommend for my combination and should the heads and intake be port matched to the gasket? Hoping the heads show up next week! One other question. would you recommend the FFR 4 into 1 headers? I am currently running Mustang shorty's with j-pipes. Or is there a better alternative?

[Gordon Levy]

The Felpro 1262 works pretty good or another similar sized gasket. Head should be there next week.
The J pipes will kill a lot of power. Yes the 4 into 4's or my exhaust system would work much better.

[ehodger]

Wish I could afford your exhaust system but after what I have spent on this already I'm afraid I would get in too much trouble at home. Even the FFR 4 into 1 headers is more than I really want to spend but oh well, she'll get over it.

[ehodger]

Finally had time to finish the shortblock today. Heads should be here this week, looks like I may have this beast ready by spring.

[ehodger]

363 cubic inches of 10.6 to 1 Dart, fully forged short block with a Levy stage 5.5 cam. Can't wait until my heads arrive, sometime this week I hope.

[ehodger]

I don't think this engine really wants to go together. I went to put the water pump on and it hit the damper. Instead of searching the forum like I should have I assumed I had the wrong front cover. Like the water pump would be in a different place, Not very likely but that's the road I went down. pulled the cover off of my car and removed the water pump to compare. They are identical pumps. so now lets remove the front cover from the engine in the car and compare, once again Identical. So now lets measure the damper, which I could have done without tearing my car apart, ah ha the new damper is .125 larger than the stock one. Looks like if I grind a little bit off of this boss on the water pump housing it will fit. Now lets search the forum, sure enough it says to grind a little off. Sure glad I tore the front cover off of the engine in the car. It's coming out of the car but I will still need to put it back together. Water pump is on, glad that fiasco is over for the time being, I will put the other engine back together after I remove it.

The Car Shop called and said my oil pump is in so I sent my son to get it for me because his car is leaking coolant and he is using my truck to help a friend move. So between loads he drops off my pump. I go to put it on and there are no gaskets, I ordered gaskets. So I called, Oh sorry we forgot to give them to him. No big deal, shit happens. So I call my son and he picks up my gaskets and drops them off on his way past with their next load. Cool I install the new Distributor driveshaft (in awe that it is the right one) and installed the oil pump. Removed the main bearing bolt to install the stud for the oil pump pickup, of Course it is wrong. 8.2" Dart blocks use 1/2' Main bolts on the inside bolt. and the Canton bolt is 7/16". Call and order the correct stud.

Pressure test the cooling system on my son's car, sure enough the water pump is leaking. Took it to a friends shop, there is no way that I am tackling a 528i water pump the way my day is going, I would rather pay to have it done. Time for a beer!

[ehodger]

RHS 200cc heads<victor jr. intake and felpro 1262 gaskets. I don't have the heads yet to compare ports but the intake ports are smaller than the gasket. Should I port match the manifold to the gasket?

[Gordon Levy]

You don't need to do any port matching. You will find they match quite well.

[ehodger]

Called Gordon last week, I've been waiting on my heads for over 9 weeks. He finally got an answer from RHS, all the heads in the size I ordered had cracked valve seats. I don't understand why they just weren't upfront with him before now, but oh well water under the bridge. So he has a set of Edelbrock 205's coming, they will bump my compression up to about 10.8:1 but he says that will be okay so I guess that is what I am going with. I just wish they had been upfront with him from the start. I could have been installing the engine by now but I am still waiting for heads and then I will have to measure for push rods and order them. If the weather doesn't get cold again soon I will be back to work for the season and won't have any time to finish except for Sunday afternoons. That should make the wife happy work 70 hrs and then head straight to the garage after Mass.

[ehodger]

I just want to make sure after my last post that no one thinks that this is Gordon's problem or that I blame him in any way. After RHS was finally up front with him we ordered different heads, they were shipped to him and he went through them, replaced the rocker studs and shipped them out. I am sure they are on a UPS trailer buried in snow in Kansas City about now, just wish they were here.

[ehodger]

In it's new home. (Don't look at how dirty my car is) As soon as my push rods show up I will be good to go I hope.

[ehodger]

It's alive and boy does it sound mean. I will post a video after I get it sorted out.