My setup is a 393W F4TE block with ported, by me, J302 heads, Z303 cam, Super victor efi intake. Canton RR pan. Next step is to get a donor car to put this in until I can get a roadster. This has been a fun project so and learned a lot about SBF's.
Here is how I brought it home 3 years ago.
Finished up last night painting and bolting on the valve covers. I really like how well they turn out. My elbow is hitting the fuel rails so that will need some work.
Here is the intake port, I know J302 are small for a 393W but will go bigger later with better cam. Porting them should help and it really was not that hard.
I did not get any receipt when I bought this engine off some guy on Craigslist. So is this going to cause a problem some when I try to register cobra in Ohio even if I have a donor vehicle vin# that it was used in? There is on vin# on the block now from the e250 the engine originated from. Any insight is appreciated.
I have the same problem. A virgin 289 block with only the seller's signature on the BOS. And now he's dead. Gotta be notarized and have the VIN on all private seller parts. Or business letterhead from the dealer and a VIN. Or new, with a dealer's receipt.
Last week I was at a state trooper post where they inspect the vehicles and one guy drove his car there without an appointment. The trooper threatened to arrest the guy on the spot with a felony for driving an unregistered vehicles without the permission an appointment gives you. I got PO'd at the driver for doing that and at the trooper for threatening someone. Arrest him or shut up.
So if you're asking if there's any way to get around the requirements. I'd say no. But try it and report back. Let us know. Regardless of what they 'say', I'd only risk it if it was a written policy as to relief of the requirement. Good luck.
Building 289 c.i.d. engines.
Indy, you really didn't screw anything. It's a great motor. Just have to wait to use it in the car until you get a BOS with a notarized signature and a valid VIN. Just a single piece of paper standing between you and happiness.
But I feel for you. I assemble 289s and have one that is just absolutely beyond perfection but there's no history. So just can't use it for an Ohio self-assembled vehicle - just yet.
And yes its biotch to locate:
1. unmachined 289 blocks
2. of 1965-1966 year
3. that come with a valid VIN origin
4. and get a notarized BOS
I'm making some calls.
Building 289 c.i.d. engines.
I took my car in for inspection with a title from a donor Mustang and neither the engine or transmission numbers matched the car's VIN. The car was an 87 so it was reasonable to assume that they had been replaced over the years. I had verified beforehand (law enforcement friend) that the engine and trans did not show up on any stolen vehicle reports. So in my case it didn't hurt that the engine & trans did not match the donor VIN. I had my inspection in Columbus, OH.
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Your engine looks real good. I don't see many J-302 heads anymore. Ford used them on their first crate 361's. They were also known as "Alan Root" heads.
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Daddy-O, that does sound like a difficult find for you, worst case is I have to go buy a used roller block some where the right way and I should be fine since there are no number stamped on my block to tell the difference. I just would have a receipt that says I purchase a legit block.
Good to hear they did not care about the T5-Z, I have one as well, another craigslist find with no papers. You might remember me, my son and I visited your build back in 07, he was only about 3 months old then. That is him in the pictures. Are you rebuilding your motor? I thought I had saw an you post something a few days ago. If you need machine work done and need a shop go to Kammer & Kammer's south of Huber Heights. They did my block, rotating asy balancing and the valves/machining on my heads. Really happy with service and quality.
Thanks for the compliment. I did not even know anything about the J302's until I bought them from this guy locally on craigslist. He said they good heads, no concerns. Later I realized what kind of a deal I got. One of the rockers arms were missing (didn't bother to count them at time of purchase my fault as they were all in thrown into an oily bucket), Also One of the rocker arms studs lost torque (threads ruined) and had come loose which let the rocker arm beat up the retainer, valve, etc. Which is why the heads have threaded inserts for all the rockers studs now. For some reason this guy had thick washers under the guide plates probably for the wrong length valves (too long) that were install. No matter, a few were bent anyway so I got all new valves.
So expensive lesson learned, a cheap set of heads is exactly that. At least these antiques are a solid set of heads for someone in the future when I go bigger. I really enjoyed learning how to port the intake runners as well.
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