Can I install my own cam, put on roller rockers, replacing timing covers/chains....
Or should I simply just dump it off and have someone install it.....
Willing to learn...... just not the hard way and with my wallet....
Alright all you previous amateurs .... do able?
Probabably have alot of the tools except simply not a small enough torgue wrench... (I think the smallest I have is a 100 ft-lb and it bottoms out at 20......
The book takes you step-by-step through the build. It's a bit outdated, but was still really good. You'll have to do a bit of research on-line or elsewhere when you get to the "modern" stuff, like adjusting hydraulic lifters, etc.
Ditto on the How to Rebuild book posted above. I used it and the motor has performed flawlessly. With that said, there is no substitute for experience, so don't be too upset if you mess something up and you have to redo. That is just part of the hobby and the learning experience. If you never try, you will never learn, so I say go for it!
In addition to that book, there is a wealth of information online and in this forum's archives! Not to mention all of the moral support you have right here!
Cost difference really depends on what your engine plans are. Are you doing a stock rebuild or are you stroking it, new heads, etc?
I built mine myself the second time, because the first time I paid someone and THEY screwed it up...
Pete
The goal is to simply put new valve covers on... convert the front to stang (timing and water pump) oil pan/pickup changover, and the intake mani/carb conversion........
Only thing that scares me is the cam install and rocker arms....
I feel okay about figuring out how to get the mallary maxfire to work (but its programable with a labtop...redline and all!)
I built mine, too. The basics are not too hard. I would suggest getting to know a good set of micrometers or at least some plastigage. The other thing is make sure that things are clean, clean, clean. Beyond these two things, if you can read a book and you are not in a hurry, you can successfully rebuild a SBF. Your cam change and cover swaps should be easy, just take your time and think about what you're doing.
I bought a couple of the Harbor Freight torque wrenches, took them to work to have them checked. I was surprised how close they were (within about 2 ft-lbs in the usable range of the tool) and they were repeatable.
I did a complete rebuild on my 302. First time I ever tried something like that. Since I needed a new crank, pistons, bearings, etc. had the machine shop go ahead and button up the rotating assembly. I did the rest. Runs fantastic. No leaks. All good. Just do your homework. I learned a lot in the process... Degreeing the cam, lifter geometry, etc. Like mentioned, get a couple good torque wrenches, and take your time.
How does it go? A journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step.
Every successful engine builder began with that first step too.
Take it on, if you have problems there are plenty of experts here to help.
Of course, realize it does take many years to pick up all the little tricks and techniques that will help you to be successful but by reading, talking to others and reading some more you should be able to do it. So, get started........
Where do you live? There may be members near you that can help. This hobby is so great. I am constantly meeting others that offer their expert help for nothing, without my asking.
I just met a guy building a FFR Hot Rod living near by. His wife, a checker at the grocery store saw my hat and asked if I was building a roadster or hot rod. She had to know the logo because it doesn't spell it out on the hat. Well, I just visited his shop last Sunday. A retired tool and die maker with a shop to go along with his former occupation. Among other things, we got to talking about the tow hitch he had fabricated for his hot rod and I told him I was thinking about doing one for my roadster. He came right out and said, If you want, I'll fabricate one for you.
What troubles did you have with your 'first' motor?
I think it will come with a warranty to be honest....
Junkyard motor with water damage. Discovered too late to return under warranty. Check out my build page for the ugliness. Rebuilt better than new by Forte's now, though
Junkyard motor with water damage. Discovered too late to return under warranty. Check out my build page for the ugliness. Rebuilt better than new by Forte's now, though
One of the first things I asked....
They actually store the motors in an indoor warehouse on huge pallet racks....
Motor will come mounted on pallet and will be allowed for inspection prior to loading/purchasing....
Edit: And it was a running/driving vehicle 3 weeks ago.....
It just got released to the yard about a week ago from the insurance company....
Where are you on your build? If you're buying a motor with a calendar based warranty (i.e. 12 months), you might want to hold off on buying it until you've finished the chassis and wiring. Otherwise, by the time you get to first start, your warranty is going to be expired.
Where are you on your build? If you're buying a motor with a calendar based warranty (i.e. 12 months), you might want to hold off on buying it until you've finished the chassis and wiring. Otherwise, by the time you get to first start, your warranty is going to be expired.
Pete
Haven't even bought a kit yet....building a motor to hold me over until fall.... (I have a few other life events that come first [read wedding] that I am refusing to buy a kit before hand) but would love to have a sitting powertrain when I order......
Worst case scenario I don't buy a kit car and simply go find a 60's mustang to take the powertrain instead but.....
Junkyard motor with water damage. Discovered too late to return under warranty. Check out my build page for the ugliness. Rebuilt better than new by Forte's now, though
Rick,
You remember what you all had done to your motor....
(cam, rockers, intake, carb etc?)
[wont be able to go through your build until after i get done with work]
After my 408W blew up, I got a 351W out of a 1985 F-150 at a pick-in-pull place. I had the block tanked and the cylinders honed, replaced the bearings and rings, and put in my cam, lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, oil pan, and heads from the 408. Total outlay for the "new" engine was about $800.
After my 408W blew up, I got a 351W out of a 1985 F-150 at a pick-in-pull place. I had the block tanked and the cylinders honed, replaced the bearings and rings, and put in my cam, lifters, pushrods, roller rockers, oil pan, and heads from the 408. Total outlay for the "new" engine was about $800.
Pete
I'm looking at about $3500 engine complete (engine, go fast parts, carb, covers, pan pickups, rockers etc etc etc)
Make sure it's a runner before you purchase, or at least pull the heads first.
Running is relative term, unfortunately. The SBF I purchased ran, and actually very well to be honest. But quickly found out it didn't hold oil pressure. After trying all the obvious things, tore it down and found completely shot main and rod bearings. Further tear down by the machine shop showed it was completely out of spec, e.g. needed new crank, bore/hone, new pistons, rings, cam bearings, etc. Finished product after machining, new parts, etc. is very strong, but bit of a journey. Long story, but I had no recourse with the seller mainly because it was over a year between when I purchased and installed/ran and found it was in that condition.
Not sure what the moral of the story is... The only real warranty that means anything is probably buying a crate motor, e.g. Ford Racing, one of the established builders, etc. Typically they will not start the warranty until your first start, if you are building. In my case, if I were doing it over, I would probably go for one of the Ford Racing crate options. That's possible with the budget you mentioned.
For the $700 block you mentioned, if you're going to tear it down for new heads, cam, lifters, etc., I would at least pull the pan and check the rod and main bearings, check the cylinder bores, etc. Way easier to do that while on the engine stand than all together in the car. Nothing worse than going through the engine purchase, install, first start, and go-kart only to find you have to start completely over. Ask me how I know.
This folder has pictures of my rebuild journey, if you're interested.
You remember what you all had done to your motor....
(cam, rockers, intake, carb etc?)
[wont be able to go through your build until after i get done with work]
Make sure it's a runner before you purchase, or at least pull the heads first. Ask me how I know.
Venom Injected
As Rick advised, buyer beware:
My experience, Ford Explorer Factory Rebuilt with 67,000 miles. Mileage coincidence? None the less, I paid $350 for mine. Same thing with the guarantee as Rick had. I was getting it ready and one thing lead to another and I pulled the pan, then the heads and found water damage and one cylinder was worn out of specs. So the block was no good, because it was was already bored out to 306, (+.030") with the prior rebuild and that's the limit with the Ford Small Block. So I found an '89 Ford engine that was good to rebuild.
In the end though, I ended up with a good set of GT-40p heads and a good EFI GT-40 intake system for that $350. Oh, and I got to practice cleaning, blasting and painting a boat anchor. Color of anchor, old Ford blue.
I'm kinda following in Ricks footsteps with my engine build. Both from communicating with Rick and my own research.
Basic Engine Specs.
Ford Small Block bored to 306
Trick Flow stage one cam with Trick Flow valve spring set which does not require head modification
GT-40p heads found on Explorer from mid'97 to 2000 and to 2001 Mountaineer
GT-40 Upper and lower EFI Intake system found on same engine as above.
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