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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2010, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Question heater hose magic

i will be installing a ford racing water pump it does have in-let out-lets for heater hoses but for now i will be running no heat, anyone ever find a tight enough moulded hose to install to the inlets and outlets. any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Leo


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-18-2010, 11:34 PM
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Leo,

Are you talking about this ( http://www.breezeautomotive.com/deta...357&cat_id=17# ) ??

Perry


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 12:29 AM
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You need the upper bypass hose between the thermostat housing and the pump, but you can cap off the lower one.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 09:05 PM
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What he said! standard oem part too!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill G View Post
You need the upper bypass hose between the thermostat housing and the pump, but you can cap off the lower one.

Bill

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill G View Post
You need the upper bypass hose between the thermostat housing and the pump, but you can cap off the lower one.

Bill
why do you need it? what does this by-pass do?
wouldn't the thermostat do the job?
i was wanting to eliminate the by-pass and the 2 lines on the pump.

so you are saying the by-pass is needed

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 02:44 AM
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I'm not sure but I'll take a stab at it.

Its for two reasons; first: it helps maintain circulation through the water otherwise it will cavitate. second; if you are installing a heater and you close the heater valve, it helps keeps pressure constant when the heater valve is opening and closing....????

Anybody else want to jump in and let me know I'm wrong

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 12:04 PM
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You need to keep the short L shaped bypass hose (from t-stat housing to upper inlet on WP) for proper circulation when the t-stat is closed. The lower heater return can be capped off.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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well i was wondering if it could be done but i can see that about the cavitation and circulation.
looked for a nice thermostat housing "CSR" swivel and the damn pic showed no by-pass, i guess it put it in my head that it wasn't needed but after more research it shows by-pass provision, i guess it helps to read farther instead of looking at pics
they ought to put the right pic with the right add. thanks anyway, sorry for the dumb ? but i was liking the no-hose look there.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 08:53 PM
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Hey BigLeo, did you get your heads back? getting close?
I know you're dieing for a gokart with the weather we've been having


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 10:19 PM
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Yeah, you need the bypass hose, however if you do not plan to use a heater you can remove that extra hose nipple from the water pump and either tap the port for a pipe plug, or install a 3/4" freeze plug. I don't like the rubber cap look and opted for the freeze plug method.

Jeff


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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-24-2010, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
Yeah, you need the bypass hose, however if you do not plan to use a heater you can remove that extra hose nipple from the water pump and either tap the port for a pipe plug, or install a 3/4" freeze plug. I don't like the rubber cap look and opted for the freeze plug method.

Jeff
how did you get the steel pipe out w/o screwing up the pump housing, that was a thought to do because the capped hose looks weird.
thought about if it would work run a 1/2 pipe to the rear of the intake and drill out the intake for the cross-overs and tie the heater flow into them with a tee fitting thought maybe it may cool the heads more., but thats a wild hair and thinking it may not work, but the cross-overs are on my list to do.

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MK3.1 #6945 her name is Buffy
p/u 04/04/09 roller 08/27/09
start-up Pearl Harbor Day 12/07/10
go-cart Memorial Day 2011
body on 11/11/11 Veterans Day
all legal except paint 02/12/12
372w handbuilt
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