Coyote first start - and potentially siezed! - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

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post #1 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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Coyote first start - and potentially siezed!

Greetings all!

I've been lurking here for a while as I quietly try to build my MK4 Roadster. I'm using a 2015 Coyote (from Forte), TKO-600. I just reached the First Start stage on Saturday and, after careful preparation, fired it up. Things initially went well, then not so much.... I seem to have a BIG problem and could use whatever troubleshooting help you may have to offer.

First Start
The engine intially fired right up. Started quickly and sounded fine (I think). Immediately had 100PSI (gauge pegged) oil pressure. I've read on this forum that this is normal with cold oil. MIL light stayed on. Ran for about 30 seconds then shut down to check for leaks. Fixed a small power-steering and coolant leak. Didn't have my OBD code reader to see what the code was. Checked oil level which was fine.

Second Start
Fired right up again. Still 100PSI oil pressure. Ran for about 1 minute and shut down. Ran at fast idle the whole time. Tested clutch engagement in first and reverse. Nice smooth operation and engagement.

At this point I really wanted to verify that I had good oil flow given my more-complicated oil plumbing (Moroso engine adapter, Moroso remote filter, Canton oil thermostat, Oil cooler). So, back into the shop to unscrew the oil filter (found full of oil) and loosen the return line for the oil going back into the motor. Oil immediately leaked out so felt better about that.

Third Start
Fired up again, let run for about 30 sec, then reved several times up to about 3,500. Sounded good but then quit suddenly. When I went to re-start, the starter struggled and then the 250A fuse in the back (rear battery setup) blew. At this point I just about messed my pants since it seemed that the engine had siezed!

Troubleshooting
Put the car in 5th and tried to push it. It would only move about 6 inches.
Removed all 8 coils and plugs. Tried to push again in 5th. Same result, will only roll 6 inches.
Tried to turn the motor with a breaker bar on the main pulley (still no plugs) and it will turn reasonably easy for about 1/8 turn then hits a hard lock.
Put a new 150A (didn't have another 250) fuse in and tried to crank it (still no plugs) and the starter struggles (engine does not turn over) and then the 150A fuse blows.

Couldn't sleep all night....

The next morning I had my daughter bring over my OBD tool, bypassed the main fuse (no more spares on hand) and turned on the ignition to read the codes (if any). There were no active codes (potentially cleared by the blown fuse) but two "Pending" codes:

P0011 - Camshaft Position Actuator A - Bank 1 timing Over-Advance
P0021 - Camshaft Position Actuator A - Bank 2 timing Over-Advance

What would cause these codes? Are they related to the issue I am having or are they common with new motors until they learn their proper timing programming? Anything I could have done to cause this or potentially a mfg. defect?

I re-verified all oil plumbing with the instructions from Moroso, Canton, and the Ford Performance tech bulletin regarding the oil system plumbing. Everything seems properly plumbed from everything I read.

At this point I'm out of ideas. It seems to just be totally locked-up! I am still within warranty so I'm going to call Ford tech support tomorrow.

Any ideas?? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Man, I really don't want to have to take that thing back out of there......

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post #2 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 05:30 AM
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Sorry to hear such bad news and sounds like your build may take a little longer to complete. Good news is it's in warranty. Sounds like something inside broke that wasn't oil related. Perhaps a timing chain came apart which might throw the fault codes while the engine died. If its cam related, most likely the valves and pistons are into each other and locking up the motor.


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post #3 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 02:58 PM
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doesn't sound good. did it make any noise before it quit running.
you say it pegged the oil gauge but did it pegged the gauge when running or does it peg the gauge when you turn on the ignition without starting the car
did you change the oil pan or is it stock as delivered to you
I would start by pulling the valve covers or the oil pan if its easier.
I would also call forte and advise him
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post #4 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 05:56 PM
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Agreed, this sounds like a nightmare.
you could try to rule out the rest of the drive train/accessories. If car is in neutral, can you roll it around freely? Is so, that eliminates the transmission and rear end from being the issue. If you pull the accessory belts off, is it still seized?
It sure sounds like something happen to the timing set and a start would be to pull the timing cover.

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post #5 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 06:08 PM
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I've had to deal with Ford Racing on a crate engine warranty issue in the past. With all due respect to the guys offering troubleshooting advice which involves some degree of disassembly let me say this---do not so much as turn a screw on it unless Ford Racing directs you to.

Good luck,
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post #6 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 07:11 PM
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My crate engine instructions required the engine to be turned over with the starter, in short intervals, until the oil pressure came up, with no fuel or spark. After that, the fuel and spark were restored and the engine started. Some people use engine pre-oilers to circulate oil through the engine, before it's ever cranked.
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post #7 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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doesn't sound good. did it make any noise before it quit running.
you say it pegged the oil gauge but did it pegged the gauge when running or does it peg the gauge when you turn on the ignition without starting the car
did you change the oil pan or is it stock as delivered to you
I would start by pulling the valve covers or the oil pan if its easier.
I would also call forte and advise him
The oil pressure gauge read 0 with the ignition on but prior to starting for the first time. It came up immediately when the engine started. I'd rather have an actual reading rather than just "pegged". Maybe FF should revise the range on the Speedhut gauge given the high pressure of the Coyotes.

The oil pan is a Moroso aftermarket pan. The factory deep oil pan will not fit in the frame.

I advised Forte a few days ago and am waiting for his input. I also placed a call to Ford Performance today. They immediately jumped to the conclusion that the external oil system was plumbed backwards starving the engine for oil causing the valvetrain to lock-up. They said it happens all the time and that 100% of the time, its due to incorrect plumbing. I told them I had quadruple checked the plumbing to both the Moroso instructions and the Ford Performance tech bulletion on the subject and was 99% sure that it is plumbed correctly. I offered to send pictures of the plumbing. If it IS plumbed incorrectly, I need to know because otherwise it's going to get plumbed exactly the same way when I put it all together again and I'll go through all this again!

I also mentioned the OBD codes showing "Timing Over-advance". That intrigued them. They wanted me to talk with a specific Technician so I will call back tomorrow. Hopefully I will be the lucky guy to break the 100% streak! I don't really FEEL lucky for some reason.

Thanks for your input and questions!
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post #8 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 02:20 AM Thread Starter
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Agreed, this sounds like a nightmare.
you could try to rule out the rest of the drive train/accessories. If car is in neutral, can you roll it around freely? Is so, that eliminates the transmission and rear end from being the issue. If you pull the accessory belts off, is it still seized?
It sure sounds like something happen to the timing set and a start would be to pull the timing cover.
It really is probably every builders nightmare. You put so much time, money, and sweat into building one of these things and you dream about days spent cruising to the beach in something you built. You are excited to turn the key for the first time but also apprehensive..... what if I did something wrong? What if I missed something? What if something is not right and I can't fix it? Then something like this happens and all your fears are confirmed. After all the time and attention, this thing has kinda become another child. It really feels like I let her down somehow... But, there is no time for all that! Summer is coming! Whether it's something I caused or not, I need to get that thing back out of there and off to Ford to get fixed.

Thanks for the questions. I should have mentioned that I have tried some of that trouble-shooting as well. The car rolls freely in Neutral and also in gear with the clutch depressed. So, I think that rules out the transmission/clutch as potential issues. I also removed the serpentine belt and all the accessories (alternator, water pump, power steering, and belt tensioners / rollers) all spin freely.
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post #9 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 02:23 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JKleiner View Post
I've had to deal with Ford Racing on a crate engine warranty issue in the past. With all due respect to the guys offering troubleshooting advice which involves some degree of disassembly let me say this---do not so much as turn a screw on it unless Ford Racing directs you to.

Good luck,
Jeff
I agree with this 100%. I removed the coils/plugs for troubleshooting but I'm not going to remove the valve covers, timing cover, or anything else unless instructed. If something in there IS busted, I'm not going to be the one to fix it anyway.
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post #10 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 03:07 AM
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Many of us have noted the Coyote, especially when cold, shows some pretty high oil pressure numbers. Starts at 80-90 psi but then settles down a bit when it warms up a little. Picks up again when rev'd though. You can see how mine behaves in this video from my first start. I panned by the gauges a couple times. From everything I've heard from other builders, this is pretty typical.

This was the third video and it was getting a little warmed up. Still peeked at around 90 psi. But I've never it seen it reach 100 psi let alone peg there. Hate to say it, but I'm wondering about plumbing issues as well. Mind if I ask why the extra plumbing vs. not just hanging the oil filter right on the block? There's room and it fits fine.

FWIW, my first build I bought a "like new, only 200 mile" engine on eBay. It didn't hold oil pressure and turned out to be completely worn out requiring a full rebuild. Which I found out a year later after I installed it. So I have an idea what you feel like. Hang in there. It will get resolved.


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post #11 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 04:40 AM Thread Starter
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As I continue my research into what could possibly be wrong with my plumbing, I think I have stumbled upon a potential / likely cause of the problem.....I think I have purchased and installed the incorrect filter adapter on the Engine! My engine is a 2015 Coyote and Ford apparently changed the block configuration slightly which requires a different adapter.

I used a Moroso 23687 filter adapter which, on many websites (including the site where I bought mine), shows that its for a "5.0 Coyote Motor". When I look now on Moroso's site, it lists this part as compatible with 2011-14 Coyote. There is no comparable PN listed for 2015-on Coyote. The Ford Performance part comparable to the Moroso 23687 is M-6881-M50. However, Ford Performance NOW offers M-6881-M50A for the 2015-16 coyote. Apparently the "A" is reasonably important since it's the difference between seizing your brand new engine or not.

I also found this Ford "Technical Reference" brochure highlighting the differences with the 2015-on coyote. On page 5, it lists as one of the changes: Cylinder block: Gen 2 block has an added oil
return and requires the matching Gen 2 OFA (oil filter adapter)


https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...rence_2-16.pdf

So, it may be plumbed correctly BUT with incorrect parts. I'll highlight this for Ford tomorrow and take responsibility if this is indeed the problem. Maybe they will take pity on me with the repair costs.

I'll respond back tomorrow and let everybody know what Ford says. If you are building a 2015 Coyote and incorporating an external filter please STOP and verify the adapter PN you are using. You may just save your motor.
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post #12 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 05:18 AM
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With a Coyote as far as the high oil pressure reading goes, it's a known issue that the Speedhut oil pressure gauge gets pegged. The good thing is that at least you know that you are getting oil pressure, also regarding the Moroso remote oil adapter its very easy to cross the lines and install them backwards (ask me how i know!) Right before I made my first start attempt I had a minor oil leak to fix at the oil cooler lines near the adapter, unfortunately when I reinstalled the lines I crossed them, the good thing is that I had pre-lubed the engine and also caught the no oil pressure condition within a few seconds of starting and averted disaster.

Building your own car will inevitably have set backs, just remember that every challenge also comes with an opportunity to overcome said challenge, I'm sure all of us will agree, just don't give up on your goal and stay focused on building your dream car.

Update,

I just checked my Coyote How to build Max Performance book and it seems that you may have found the issue.

Please see attached page 38 from the book.

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post #13 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 06:52 PM
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The extra hole is labeled for 'diverted oil from the oil filter adapter' which makes me think it prevents too high of oil pressure flowing through the filter.

Companies like MMR sell adapters for the 2015+ engines that completely block off the third hole with an O-ring to prevent leaks but no oil flows into that hole.
By the looks of it, even Ford's adapter blocks the hole:


Just bringing it up because that may not be the root cause.

(I'm also interested in what happened because I was planning to run a remote filter too)

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post #14 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 08:00 PM
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Dont really have much to offer on the issue but just wanted to give you some encouragement to keep at it. All the frustration will be worth it in the end when you are cruising down the road. Good luck getting everything squared away.
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post #15 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 12:16 AM
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Oil pressure - I have datalogged up to 120 psi on mine. Seeing that, I sent my gauge in to Speedhut for a recalibration and new face for up to 150 psi. Changed the pressure sensor to 150 psi. Mine does go above 100 and this is pretty normal as pretty much everyone else has said.

As for the the over-advance timing, this is cam timing. These VVT cams on the Coyotes require oil pressure to actuate the phasers and change the timing. Without proper oil pressure the cams are going to go wild which is probably why they are throwing codes. This further supports the idea that you have oiling pressure/routing issues and sounds like you are on the right track. I wouldn't worry about the codes right now. I think they may just be symptomatic and will self resolve.

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post #16 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 04:55 AM Thread Starter
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I spoke with Ford Performance today and then send some pictures of my installation so they could check the plumbing. They weren't entirely convinced that the issue was the incorrect engine adapter. Their response was similar to the comment by q4stix where the new adapter may just cover a new hole in the 2015 block that is not needed with this application. I'm not sure their response makes much sense. Why have a new adapter that just blocks a hole? The old adapter (which I used) blocked the hole just fine. It's not like I had oil spraying all over at 100 PSI from an unblocked hole. But, they were going to match up a 2011-14 adapter to a 2015 block and verify. Crazy as it sounds, I was hoping this WAS the problem (even if it means I was at fault and would have to pay for the repairs). Otherwise, I don't know what happened and therefore can't guarantee it won't happen again after my motor is repaired.

Here are some of the plumbing pics I sent. Let me know if something looks amiss.

Adapter on engine. OUT is the lower port (with the zip tied wiring). IN is the upper port.

[IMG]IMG_3648 by You're Fine, on Flickr[/IMG]


The lower line from the adapter (with the zip ties) goes to the side "INLET" port on the Filter mount. The top "OUTLET" port on the filter mount then goes to the input on the Canton Oil thermostat.

[IMG]IMG_3654 by You're Fine, on Flickr[/IMG]

Here is the Oil thermostat. Input is on the wider end relative to the center band. Output line (not really visible in the picture) goes back to the TOP port on the engine adapter to flow back into the engine. Side ports on the thermostat go to the oil cooler in the front. Oil only flows to the cooler when it reaches 215 degrees.

[IMG]IMG_3653 by You're Fine, on Flickr[/IMG]

View from below. Cooler lines will be shortened at final install. Left long for now just because i don't know the final position of the cooler until the body goes on. There shouldn't be any oil in those yet since there's no way I've run it enough to warm up the oil.

[IMG]IMG_3646 by You're Fine, on Flickr[/IMG]

Thank you everyone for your help and encouraging words! I am hoping for a good outcome.

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post #17 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 11:48 AM
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PLease post so we can see the pictures.


I just did the very same thing and had the same engine codes....I reversed the oil lines....and locked that dude up....I have a MMR oil filter adapter and the one on the Block is not marked.


I have reversed the lines and all is well so far.. it doesn't peg the oil pressure gauge anymore either. Make sure that the center on the oil filter mount it OUT to the motor.

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post #18 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Unfortunately your pictures aren't showing.
Argh. Sorry. I'm using Flikr (trying to at least) and I must have done something wrong. I'll do a search for instructions tonight and edit the post to fix the pictures.

Thanks!
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post #19 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 07:07 PM
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So to me your oil routing is fine.


I would disconnect the tranny from the engine then try and rotate the motor again with a breaker bar. You might be mechanically held up in the bellhousing/clutch/starter flywheel area.

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post #20 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 12:30 AM
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Any signs of metal or plastic in the oil? If a quick look at the oil on the dipstick does not show anything, draining the oil, removing and cutting open the filter could confirm if you had internal oil starvation damage. Something you could do without disassembly.

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post #21 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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So to me your oil routing is fine.


I would disconnect the tranny from the engine then try and rotate the motor again with a breaker bar. You might be mechanically held up in the bellhousing/clutch/starter flywheel area.
I began unhooking things yesterday with a plan to pull the engine out today. I figured I would remove the starter first just to see if it was somehow bound up on the flywheel. Removed the starter and then tried the breaker bar again. Same result. Turns reasonably easy for 1/8 turn in either direction but then binds up. Seems like a chain or something in the top end is broken/loose to me. I will try again once the tranny / clutch are off after I get the engine out but I'm expecting the same result. Thanks for your suggestion!
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post #22 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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Any signs of metal or plastic in the oil? If a quick look at the oil on the dipstick does not show anything, draining the oil, removing and cutting open the filter could confirm if you had internal oil starvation damage. Something you could do without disassembly.
I drained the oil last night into a clean bucket (rather than the lift drain tank) so I could look for metal. I'll let it settle overnight but I didn't really see any visible metal in the oil. I'll hack open the filter too but if I wasn't getting flow through my external oil plumbing (which is the operating assumption) I'm guessing there isn't any metal in there. I'll let you know. Thanks!
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post #23 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 01:29 PM
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THe fact that the motor does turn a little....seems to me that it may be a chain or something flywheel related ...mine was LOCKED tight...it wouldn't budge. I had to take 2 mains off before it would rotate.

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post #24 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Many of us have noted the Coyote, especially when cold, shows some pretty high oil pressure numbers. Starts at 80-90 psi but then settles down a bit when it warms up a little. Picks up again when rev'd though. You can see how mine behaves in this video from my first start. I panned by the gauges a couple times. From everything I've heard from other builders, this is pretty typical. Video 3: 2015 Coyote First Start in Factory Five Mk4 Roadster - YouTube

This was the third video and it was getting a little warmed up. Still peeked at around 90 psi. But I've never it seen it reach 100 psi let alone peg there. Hate to say it, but I'm wondering about plumbing issues as well. Mind if I ask why the extra plumbing vs. not just hanging the oil filter right on the block? There's room and it fits fine.

FWIW, my first build I bought a "like new, only 200 mile" engine on eBay. It didn't hold oil pressure and turned out to be completely worn out requiring a full rebuild. Which I found out a year later after I installed it. So I have an idea what you feel like. Hang in there. It will get resolved.
I agree with you on the PSI. I can see it reaching 100 PSI (especially cold) but it was completely pegged on the gauge the whole time. So, I think it was getting oil to the remote filter (where my pressure sensor lives), but getting blocked somewhere between there and its return to the motor. So, either in the thermostat or at the return on the block adapter. I ordered an engine pre-oiler (which I intend to use next time once my engine is repaired). While the engine is away, I'm going to hook up the pre-oiler to all this plumbing on the bench and see if I get good flow through everything.

I noticed that I didn't respond to your question about "why the extra plumbing" which is a fair question (particularly in light of my situation right now). I guess there were a few factors: 1) The 2015 Coyote came with an oil cooler (which would obviously have to be removed to fit in the roadster frame), so I figured it must be beneficial or they would not have added the cost 2) I'm building this with my Dad and he really likes the "look" of the oil cooler and plumbing from the front of the car 3) I was worried about the oil being too cold with a full front-mounted cooler (since I'm not racing) and I didn't want to either install a cooler but not hook it up or use cardboard to block the cooler so I chose the Canton thermostat. There are obvious downsides: 1) Extra cost which is not trivial 2) extra plumbing to potentially leak 3) extra potential for something to go horribly wrong and destroy your engine. So, I get your point.
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post #25 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-01-2017, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by manrigdude View Post
I agree with you on the PSI. I can see it reaching 100 PSI (especially cold) but it was completely pegged on the gauge the whole time. So, I think it was getting oil to the remote filter (where my pressure sensor lives), but getting blocked somewhere between there and its return to the motor. So, either in the thermostat or at the return on the block adapter. I ordered an engine pre-oiler (which I intend to use next time once my engine is repaired). While the engine is away, I'm going to hook up the pre-oiler to all this plumbing on the bench and see if I get good flow through everything.

I noticed that I didn't respond to your question about "why the extra plumbing" which is a fair question (particularly in light of my situation right now). I guess there were a few factors: 1) The 2015 Coyote came with an oil cooler (which would obviously have to be removed to fit in the roadster frame), so I figured it must be beneficial or they would not have added the cost 2) I'm building this with my Dad and he really likes the "look" of the oil cooler and plumbing from the front of the car 3) I was worried about the oil being too cold with a full front-mounted cooler (since I'm not racing) and I didn't want to either install a cooler but not hook it up or use cardboard to block the cooler so I chose the Canton thermostat. There are obvious downsides: 1) Extra cost which is not trivial 2) extra plumbing to potentially leak 3) extra potential for something to go horribly wrong and destroy your engine. So, I get your point.
Answering my question was the least of your worries right now, but thanks for the response. The oil cooler Ford added to the 2015 and up Gen 2 Coyote has been debated on here several times. For a Roadster anyway (I don't know about anything else) there clearly isn't room for it including the oil filter on the end. Plus it makes the engine coolant plumbing even more complicated. Those that have run these cars with the previous generation Coyote haven't reported any engine temp issues. Same for the few that have the new version on the road. At least for regular street driving. So I personally was more than comfortable not using it plus not adding any further complication with a remote setup. I'm just waiting for warm weather and my Michigan title and VIN, and I'll have some real world driving on mine. Needless to say, I will be keeping a very close eye on the gauges including the temp gauge.

Having said that I completely get the desire for an authentic oil cooler setup. Using a setup that only uses the oil cooler if the engine temp demands it makes a lot of sense. Like you said though, neither a simple or inexpensive way to go. Obviously the jury is still out but the evidence IMO still points to that. Even though it doesn't seem to be completely understood, there must be a reason Ford made such a big point about releasing and using a different remote adapter for the Gen 2 Coyote. Now that the plumbing is better understood, I agree with your point that the remotely located oil pressure sensor being pegged at 100 psi with no variation (like in the video I posted) suggests there was little/no recirculation back to the engine. Also suggests that looking for metal in the oil or filter may not be conclusive.

One way or the other, seems taking the engine out is inevitable. Then with the bell housing and trans removed, and confirming nothing is happening back there (good suggestion BTW), seems the problem will be internal to the engine. Has Ford Performance given you any hint about warranty or what might happen if you start diving into the engine? Having said that, don't know of your comfort level or interest in doing so. Would seem the oil pan and windage tray would need to come off the bottom to check mains and the front cover would need to come off to check the cam chains and timing. From there the cams and followers would also be accessible. That's quite a bit of teardown though.

Build 1: Mk3 #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
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Last edited by edwardb; 04-01-2017 at 02:23 PM.
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post #26 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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Engine is out. Man, that thing is just plain snug in there!

No change to the locked-up-ness once the transmission, bellhousing, and clutch were removed so it's definately something internal. I'm not interested (or qualified) to open the thing up so it's going to have to go back to Ford for repair. We'll see how much (if any) they agree to cover under warranty. They haven't really indicated so far and they might not until they get into it and see what is going on. Regardless, it needs to be fixed and they are probably the right ones to do the work.

I still had the factory pallet and crate (luckily those things are difficult to dispose-of) so I just had to modify the supports to accommodate the Moroso pan and fabricate some brackets to hold the motor secure. It will get shipped once Ford gives me RMA information. Then the waiting begins.

I let the oil settle overnight in a bucket and there WAS some metal in the bottom. Small gold flakes. Here's a pic after pouring off the settled oil. I don't know if this is a little or a lot but it's definitely metal. When I get the motor back, I'll do another oil change after an hour of running or so to try to flush out whatever Ford doesn't get out.

[IMG]IMG_3664 by You're Fine, on Flickr[/IMG]

I'll let you know when I hear back from Ford. Thanks everyone for your troubleshooting help!
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post #27 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 11:32 AM
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Good luck with everything.
I am curious, was there any option of taking it to a local ford dealer for service or was the only option to send it in? I have wondered if I had a major problem with mine how I would get it serviced.
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post #28 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 02:15 PM
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I would think and hope that Ford will just replace the engine. I would keep my Oil pan and anything else that you added to the engine before returning it.

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post #29 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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I thought about trailering the whole chassis to a Ford dealership or something just to see if they could fix it without removing the motor. First, I don't know (but didn't really research) that Ford dealerships are authorized warranty service provider for crate engines. But, primarily, I just don't think anyone would touch it for liability reasons. They just have no idea how the wiring works, whether or not the fuel is plumbed without leaks, and whether the thing would immediately burst into flames when they try to fire it up. I wouldn't touch it if I were them so I didn't even really explore it.

I have already removed MOST of my parts (sensors, alternator, power steering pump, clutch, etc) but I left the oil pan on to keep it sealed. I don't have the factory deep oil pan anymore so i don't have that option. If they did decide to swap it out (which would be great time-wise), they would just have to send me my oil pan.
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post #30 of 59 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 03:52 PM
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I would either get the correct oil pan or take pics and engrave your initials or name of the car on it. I would bet that your going to loose the pan if you send it in....
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