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Another AEM Infinity ECU Install on a Coyote

80K views 443 replies 18 participants last post by  TMScrogins 
#1 · (Edited)
Another AEM Infinity ECU Install on a Coyote and...

Well, I got my roadster back on the road after the dyno disaster late last year. Took the opportunity to replace the destroyed stock coyote motor with an Aluminator XS (this proved to add some unintended consequences, I'll describe in a moment). Here's a link to that saga for those interested... http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-for...ter-builds/469954-cold-air-intake-coyote.html

After having a new tune built for the Aluminator XS and logging dyno time I began driving the heck out the car over the spring and early summer months. The tune just wasn't quite right down at low RPM, especially at tip-in and tip-out conditions at no load. Clearly more power with this engine but the driveability characteristics just weren't as gentlemanly as my stock coyote motor. So back to the tuner I went for some more tweaks. We were able to improve it but still not quite right. I then pondered going back again to try and get more tuning done but began to think maybe it's time to start tuning this thing myself as the inconvenience to take it to someone continues to mount. I began looking into SCT's Advantage III Pro Racer tuning software since I was setup with the SCT tuner and tune already.

Enter David Borden... David says he's thinking of considering ditching the stock PCM in favor of AEM's Infinity ECU. Not knowing much about their product, I began my research and ultimately decided to ditch the SCT route and Ford PCM and go full hog. Fast forward and we are both sitting in tuning class down at AEM's headquarters (safety in numbers right?). After the whirlwind 2-day tuning training class and product purchases made, on to the install of the new ECU.

What sold me on the Infinity setup was the fact the hardware and software was manufactured and supported by one company. No locked tables, no mystery areas of the ECU, no reverse engineering. Everything is above board. Coupled with a one stop shop to help the likes of a sorry wannabe tuner like me. Couple this with some of the product features that I was really interested in, like Traction Control, and the user-friendly approach of their tuning software interface with the use of wizards, and I was hooked.

The physical install itself, while involved, went without a hitch. I took the opportunity to install tone rings on the rear IRS axles along with wheel speed sensors front and back. I also had to convert the VSS Analog VR signal from the Tremec TKO to a digital signal for the Vehicle Speed input to the ECU (Thank you Dakota Digital), wired in inputs for a 12-position traction control switch as well as some other inputs for engine protection strategies and some other features. Wired in the fuel pump to be controlled by the Infinity ECU. Done with that and it was time to start tuning.

What is really cool about the Infinity ECU is that AEM provides a base tune file for the stock Coyote motor. You basically start with a conservatively safe tune that will run your engine and can then tweak it from there. My problem was that the Aluminator XS uses larger heads and cams along with larger throttle body and fuel injectors. This would need to be compensated for in the tune. The great guys at AEM took my throttle body (Ford Racing Corbrajet Twin 65mm) and one of my fuel injectors (47 lb.) and characterized them for me on their equipment. This gave me the data I needed to build out the modifications to the base tune file.

It was time to start the engine. At this point David Borden was about 1 week ahead of where I was on mine. He had already successfully started, idled and test drove his without much of any issues. The engine started right up with not a lick of problems. However, there were immediate idling issues. Idle would range from over 2,000 RPM down to 400 RPM. The engine would just begin to oscillate as the idle feeback would work overtime to correct the oscillations. Until I could get the idle tuned properly there would be no driving it. With hours and hours of tuning on just the idle with lot's of phone and email support from AEM (those guys have been absolutely fantastic), I still have yet to get the idle working properly. All the issues have been focused on the drive-by-wire tuning. Particularly, we determined that there was some stiction in the throttle body down at just off idle at around 1-2% throttle position. Ultimately, I changed out the throttle body and went to the Super Cobrajet Monoblade TB. Still unsuccessful although through tuning the PIDs and the DBW Bias tables I was able to get the idle within a range of 600 RPM to 1300 RPM using idle feedback to control the idle. Still not acceptable though.

Both of these throttle bodies flow about 1600 CFM (twin) and 1800 CFM (mono). The stock Coyote TB flows about 900 CFM. Since upgrading to the Aluminator XS with the Cobrajet Intake and TB, I've never had nearly as good of idle characteristics as the Boss IM and Accufab 84.5 mm throttle body (1200 CFM). So my current theory is that the Throttle Body is just too large for the N/A application to reasonably expect low-end driveability. The slightest movement of the throttle plate causes a large run up or run down in engine speed as it takes in or restricts such a mass volume of air.

To test this theory I have ditched the CobraJet intake and throttle body for now in favor of the Boss intake with Accufab throttle body. Just finishing up the install now and should be back to tuning it this weekend. Assuming this fixes the problem I'll hit the road for some data logs and begin working the tuning out for the VE map, ignition, cam timing, and decel. Hopefully be back on the road soon.

Fingers crossed.

Trevor
 

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#300 ·
I will check it tomorrow once I am back in the garage. I believe i have the latest firmware unless this new one came recently. I downloaded the latest firmware maybe few months ago. I will wait till tomorrow to check it.

I noticed when I disconnect the o2 sensor (driverside) readings go down to lambda 1. Also I had some issues with my engine on the oter car that for some reason and out of sudden i feel like the engine dies while driving for few seconds. I think these extension has something wrong at the connector. I will remove these extensions from all cars and extend wires by soldering longer wire and keeping FRPP connector.

Thanks guys. will update tomorrow.

btw another question please. at what degree do u guys set the fan to work? mine is set at 87.5 C and the coolant temperature keep raising till 100 C. and then stops. is this normal?
 
#301 ·
Coolant Fan on/off

Hakeem,

The latest firmware for your ECU was released in January 2016. So I am sure you are running the latest. Although I hear a newer version should be released soon for the Series 7.

As for your fan, I have mine set right at about the same range. I have it turn on at 190* F and off at 185* F (87.78/85.00*C). My suggestion is to datalog your temperature runup. Then you can review the log (or watch it live on your laptop) for when the fan kicks on and kicks off. (My fan kicks on right around the 88*C as it should). The temperature will run up a bit higher before it settles after the fan kicks on, especially if it is idling and not getting much airflow. Also, if you haven't had this engine running for very long, it is also possible that your cooling system still has air trapped and you may need to get that air purged which would cause misreadings on the head coolant temp sensor.

Hard to say for sure without more background information.

Trevor
 
#302 ·
Do today I updated the file and it worked perfectly. Thanks.

I do Have some questions please;
1) regarding the commit changes check box, what is this exactly? and what will happen if its not checked?

2) after I do changes to the ECU Do I need to save the changes? or its instantly saving these changes?

3) Do I have to save layout every time I do any changes? I noticed that after todays modification and after I closed the program it asked me if I want to save layout. but not sure if it does that everytime i close the program.

4) Wire up a MIL, I did exactly like Trevor`s document. this is it? or do I need to set like when to flash and when to solid light and assign sensors..etc?

5) wire up a Valet mode, I followed Trevor`s instruction. However I noticed that some numbers are different in the document. Such as DBW PID settings under DBW Tuning. Do I need to change these? I am using the throttle that came with 5.0 coyote engine.
Trevor`s Document numbers are P = 1.8, I = 4, D= 0.03. Mine P = 1.75, I= 0.5, D = 0.01.

Also, I couldnt find ModeSelect_DBW table. So I changed the clutch switch table to ModeSelect_DBW table. is this how I should do it? I am using Auto transmission so thought I am not going to use this table....
 
#303 ·
Questions answered

Do today I updated the file and it worked perfectly. Thanks.

I do Have some questions please;
1) regarding the commit changes check box, what is this exactly? and what will happen if its not checked? If you forget to commit/save changes made to your ECU through Infinity Tuner software while connected, if you have this box checked, it will automatically save those changes at time of key off

2) after I do changes to the ECU Do I need to save the changes? or its instantly saving these changes? Typically, any changes you make to the ECU while in any of the wizards, will immediately save to the ECU when you close the wizard. Any changes that you make to any of the tabs/tables directly will not be automatically saved. You will need to manually save those changes.
However, those changes will be live in the ECU affecting the operation of the engine. You can easily save them by going to the ECU drop down menu and select "Commit Modifications" or if you have selected the "key off commit" in your wizard then this will happen when you shut the ignition off. I leave this uncheked though as I like to control whether or not I want my changes saved manually by using the "Commit/Revert Modifications" commands

3) Do I have to save layout every time I do any changes? I noticed that after todays modification and after I closed the program it asked me if I want to save layout. but not sure if it does that everytime i close the program. You don't ever need to save the layout. You only need to save the layout if you have made screen format changes or added channels or tables to your display and want them saved. The layout is nothing more than how the information is presented to you and what information is collected from the ECU for display. It is separate from any tune/session file.

4) Wire up a MIL, I did exactly like Trevor`s document. this is it? or do I need to set like when to flash and when to solid light and assign sensors..etc? If you have set it up as my document indicates then you are done. FYI, the "LS1_Duty [%]" table sets the light behavior. You'll notice that a MIL trigger event is 100 and and Engine Protect event is 50. 100% duty will cause the indicator lamp to light solid. 50% will cause the indicator lamp to flash. However, you could change this behavior to all solid or all flash by changing the duty cycle settings.

5) wire up a Valet mode, I followed Trevor`s instruction. However I noticed that some numbers are different in the document. Such as DBW PID settings under DBW Tuning. Do I need to change these? I am using the throttle that came with 5.0 coyote engine.
Trevor`s Document numbers are P = 1.8, I = 4, D= 0.03. Mine P = 1.75, I= 0.5, D = 0.01. You should not need to change your DBW PID settings. Mine are different because I was using a different throttle body requiring it to be PID tuned. You can certainly try to refine your PID tuning on your throttle body but it should not be required. And you definitely should not match it to my values. I have a video on how to tune the DBW PIDs in an earlier post if you are interested in fine tuning your PIDs

Also, I couldnt find ModeSelect_DBW table. So I changed the clutch switch table to ModeSelect_DBW table. is this how I should do it? I am using Auto transmission so thought I am not going to use this table....I believe I sent you a layout file a while back. If you are using the one I sent you, then you will find the ModeSelect_DBW table on the DBW tab. From your question, I think you probably went into the Inputs tab and simply changed the ClutchSwitch table to the ModeSelect_DBW table. Which is also fine. You are not really altering the ClutchSwitch table but merely choosing a different table to display in its place. Since this table is really focused on the 2 DBW throttle maps that reside on the DBW tab, I generally prefer it there as opposed to the Inputs tab. But this is nothing more than preference. Regardless, this change that you made is a perfect example of a change that if you want to see the ModeSelect_DBW table every time you open up your layout, you'll need to make sure you save your layout once with this display change.
Hakeem, see my answers in red.
 
#304 ·
Lambda 2 issue

Yes you are right I was looking at the input tabs! but now everything is OK.

Ok regarding the Lambda Issue, I checked all wiring for lambda 2 and they all are connected where they should be with 0.4 Ohms between AEM c2 connector and o2 sensor connector. so I think nothing wrong here?... also the sensor is getting 12.5 volts same as battery volts.

I tried swapping sensors to check if the sensor is damaged but same thing. Then I swapped AEM extension but still no readings.

The only thing I can think of is that in LambdaMaps tab, lambda target table 1 and lambda target table 2 are not the same values. but I am not sure what that is. Also, in Lambda map tab on the left side table only lambda 1 is there. there is no lambda 2. could this be the issue? any thing else I should be looking for?

Hakeem
 
#305 · (Edited)
Yes you are right I was looking at the input tabs! but now everything is OK.

Ok regarding the Lambda Issue, I checked all wiring for lambda 2 and they all are connected where they should be with 0.4 Ohms between AEM c2 connector and o2 sensor connector. so I think nothing wrong here?... also the sensor is getting 12.5 volts same as battery volts.

I tried swapping sensors to check if the sensor is damaged but same thing. Then I swapped AEM extension but still no readings.

The only thing I can think of is that in LambdaMaps tab, lambda target table 1 and lambda target table 2 are not the same values. but I am not sure what that is. Also, in Lambda map tab on the left side table only lambda 1 is there. there is no lambda 2. could this be the issue? any thing else I should be looking for?

Hakeem
Hakeem,

I have two questions I need answered in order to better help you.

1) When you swapped sensors did the problem stay or on the same bank or follow the sensor? I want to be sure I understand the symptoms.

2) Also, do you have your exhaust finished and all buttoned up or are the headers still open?

As for the Lambda Target table 1 and Lambda Target table 2, these are not representative of one table for each O2 sensor. Unless you are going to run some sort of flex fuel tune or swap between 2 different fuels or run secondary injectors, you really won't be using Lambda Target table 2. Table 1 is the primary lambda table used for your primary fuel and sets the target AFR for different engine speeds and engine loads. Both O2 sensors will run off of this table 1. Table 2 is used if your are using multi-maps. For example, if you run flex fuel tune with an Ethanol sensor, you would set Lambda Target table 1 to read when Gasoline is present and Lambda Target table 2 when E-85 or E-100 is present. Then, when the fuels are mixed (say 50% of each), the ECU will automatically blend these two tables based on the percentage mix of fuel and the adjusted Stoich of the mixed fuel as picked up from the ethanol sensor. Basically allows you to tune with two tables and blend them under various conditions. You'll also notice that the VE table and the Ignition Timing table both have a table 1 and table 2 and these two tables are designed to do the same thing. Ignore table 2 for now. This is for more advanced tuning that you can tackle at a later time.

Lastly, back to your O2 sensors. The Infinity has 2 wideband controllers built into the ECU. These can be assigned separately between Bank 1 and Bank 2. Once I fully understand the behavior you are describing on the O2 swap, I will post instructions here on how to re-assign your O2 sensors so that Lambda 1 controls bank 2 and Lambda 2 controls bank 1. This will be helpful troubleshooting to see if the problem switches sides or remains the same.

Trevor
 
#307 ·
O2 sensor problems - Lambda 2

Make sure you have no exhaust leak at the head or at the collector gasket. The fact that in the datalog you sent me shows the O2 sensor slightly registering some fuel by coming down from 1.9 is interesting and could still suggest you are getting fresh air mixed in. Seems unlikely though.

Assuming your wiring is good, which seems that you have thoroughly gone through the wiring, and you swapped sensors and the problem remained on bank 2, this might suggest that there is something wrong with the onboard controller. So let's test that:

Go into your Wizard under "Injector Setup". Find the Injector 1-8 grid and then change the O2 Feedback assignments so that Injectors 1-4 read "Lambda2" and Injectors 5-8 read "Lambda1". To change each injector, simply double-click on the grid cell that shows the lambda assignment, a drop down box will present itself and make the change. See the picture for the illustration.

If the problem stays on Bank 2 of the engine then this suggests that there is something wrong with the wiring. If the problem moves to Bank 1 then this would suggest that you have a faulty Lambda 2 onboard controller on the ECU.
 

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#308 ·
Update and questions on the 2015+ implementation:

First.... progress with cam phasing working! (image from a USB data log so channels are missing)
I was able to get the exhaust cams to actually phase using the Gen 2 phasers a couple days ago. While I consider this a great step forward, I also haven't been able to reproduce it again. I've been experimenting with various initial cam timing via the cam sync values in the Setup Wizard VVC tab. You can see it doesn't quite follow yet, but it is clearly moving. Part of the issue seems to be getting the cam phaser to unlock. Starting at 0 in the target table that time created a feedback correction that I'm guessing was holding the pin on the side and not letting it release. Once the mid target was hit, movement began.

Second... Any idea what the VVC requires to start functioning? A few times I've seen duty cycle on the actuator but most of the time I don't.

Third... no matter what I seem to do, the intake cam timing never seems to get off of zero. If I adjust the tables at all from 0, the engine stalls. If I change the Cam 2 Sync or Cam 3 Sync to any value, the Cam2_Timing and Cam3_Timing values never change from 0. Any idea what would cause this?
 

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#309 ·
Matt,

This is really cool to see you forging into uncharted territory that even AEM hasn't yet pursued. I don't know how much help I can provide as you are blazing new trails on the Gen 2 Coyote. I'll chime in with just brainstorm ideas to consider that may be helpful or take you down the proverbial garden path.

First, did you try to sync your cams be deactivating the VVC and zeroing out your cam timing on all 4 cams?

Second, what is your oil pressure? Did you take this log when the engine was cold or normal operating temperature? Looks like you are running a high idle. On my engine, I have found that the phasers don't quite follow as tuned down at idle, especially when the engine is fully warm. This is mostly due to not enough oil pressure which is required to activate and move the phasers. How much oil pressure were you running on that datalog screenshot? Also regarding your intake cams not moving off of zero, is this at idle or have you tried revving the engine a bit to ensure there is enough oil pressure to move the phasers?

Lastly, one other thing to consider is the duty cycle. On the Gen 1, AEM has identified an optimum duty cycle of 53% for intake and exhaust cams. Perhaps the Gen 2 phasers require more duty cycle? This may be something else you can play with to see if that helps.

Really interested to see how you progress through this.

Trevor
 
#311 ·
Here's a quick update. After talking with AEM, they said
Aside from recognizing a functioning timing pattern, there is a minimum coolant temp setting for VVC target table. You also have duty cycle tables that require values be input before any movement can occur. Other than that there is not something specific but rather a collective of basic engine function.
I knew I already had values for the duty cycle tables and for the targets, so I went to the next possibility. I double checked the coolant temp protection value in the Setup Wizard -> VVC and it comes preset to 32F so that wasn't the problem.

I then went in and changed the oil pressure sensor reading value to show 40psi to 45psi depending on the voltage and viola, duty cycles and feedback corrections started on four consecutive engine starts. I'm guessing that even though oil pressure protection is off, it's still used in the background to check functions of certain components.

Here's something interesting though: As you can see the 4th time I started the engine, I had the cams set to reference -15 deg in the locked position. I also changed the base duty cycle to be higher when low target values just to see if I could get the cam to 'twitch' and show the max movement on a feedback correction. Aside from the cam phasing happening pretty darn quick (go Ford and Borg Warner!), the exhaust cam only moved at most 2 degrees advanced past the locked position. It makes me wonder if the exhaust cam is actually still designed to lock at full advance (0 degrees) and then only retard from the lock position. This doesn't make sense with Ford touting the mid lock phasers, but I wonder if they only have them on the intake cams. I may need to order a spare 2015+ intake and exhaust phaser to tear them down and see for myself if I can't find pictures online.

Onward!
-Matt
 

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#314 · (Edited)
It makes me wonder if the exhaust cam is actually still designed to lock at full advance (0 degrees) and then only retard from the lock position. This doesn't make sense with Ford touting the mid lock phasers, but I wonder if they only have them on the intake cams. I may need to order a spare 2015+ intake and exhaust phaser to tear them down and see for myself if I can't find pictures online.

Onward!
-Matt
I don't really have any new suggestions for the latest issues you are finding. However, going back to your observation on the exhausts cams... I am almost positive that Ford adapted the mid-lock design ONLY on the intake cams and left the phaser design alone on the exhaust cams. The thinking was that on initial startup of the engine by having the intake cams locked in a mid-position, they didn't have to wait a few seconds for oil pressure to build to move the cam from full-retard position to somewhere else where good cylinder pressure is found. It was apparently done to clean up emissions at initial startup. Once oil pressure builds, the lock is released and the cam has the full 50 degrees of adjustability at that point.
 
#312 ·
Matt,

Great work. Glad to see you continually moving forward on this. I love the R&D you are doing. I can certainly say that every obstacle or problem I have encountered has led to the best learning opportunities and helped increase knowledge on the AEM Infinity platform. I'm sure you'll find the same to be true.

Trevor
 
#313 ·
The more I can find out, the more people we can get using the Infinity and develop a better knowledge base for everyone. Seems like a win-win to me and I get to have fun in the process.

New issue on my end though... I did get the intake cams to phase as well (as determined by duty cycle and the VE and AFR changes), but I'm still not getting any reading at all from the sensors. I know the intake cam sensors are hall effect, but I can't figure out what's causing them to only read '0'. No adjustments to the initial position in the Setup Wizard change the readings, no duty cycle on the actuators which is clearly impacting engine function due to VE changes show up as phase changes, etc. Since I'm getting 0 readings on both the left and right banks, I don't think it's failed sensors. I'm pretty darn stumped on what could be causing it.
Any thoughts or past encounters with this?
 
#315 ·
Lambda 2 Issue Solved!

After I did what Trevor mentioned in last post the issue was still the same Lambda 2 has no readings. I disassembled the headers and noticed that there are little fuel inside them. so I removed ignition to check spark plugs and they were brand new! I looked at the AEM ignition coils and one of the connectors were lose. I connected it and now its working perfect!!

Thanks Trevor for the help. I will continue working on the car next week and wait till my next issue :D.
 
#317 ·
Exhaust and Intake Cam timing for Aluminator XS

Slib,

Here is the cam timing you requested as I've tuned them for an Aluminator XS 5.0. For anyone interested in these tables, please be aware they will most likely not be optimum for a stock coyote engine.

VVC2 is the Exhaust timing. VVC1 table is the Intake timing.

 

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#318 ·
ECU Comms connectivity issue

A quick update on a communication issue I recently encountered. Out of the blue, my laptop would not consistently stay connected to the Infinity ECU. It would connect solidly and stay connected with the engine off and the ignition on. However, once I start the engine, the USB comms connection would drop and then reconnect. It would continue to intermittently cycle through this drop and reconnect. This problem basically rendered any data logging from the PC impossible. Also, it made it difficult to live-tune the ECU while driving down the road. I still don't know why it has worked so well for the last two years and now I seem to be having these connection problems.

Anyhow, after speaking with AEM, they informed me that some of the early Infinity ECUs had USB comms problems. The problem was with the PCB. They have since made the change to the PCB going forward and the USB comms problems is now resolved. As usual, AEM is honoring the fix and warranting it even though my 1 year warranty is expired. No questions asked. They just took care of it. Thanks again AEM. Because it is a board fix (hardware), I had to send in the ECU for repair. As a date point of reference, I purchased my ECU in July of 2015, and it was one of the last ones before they made the fix.

I thought I would get this posted in case anyone runs across similar issues with an older Infinity. Once I receive my ECU back from AEM, I will update here with results. Hopefully, this fixes the connectivity issue.
 
#319 ·
I'm starting to feel that AEM is more reactive instead of proactive when it comes to customer support. First the wiring harness issue we both had and now your connectivity issues. It'd sure be nice if they had a "known issues" list to check before wasting time troubleshooting.

On the bright side, I do commend them for their responsiveness to questions and taking care of issues like fixing the ECU even after the official warranty has expired.

Good luck on the next step!
 
#320 ·
Certainly with any product release there are going to be bugs and problems. That should be expected and each subsequent release should only get better and I think it is. I do think they are proactive in getting issues fixed with their products. But I tend to agree with your observation. Their communication to customers of the known issues (and fixes) certainly leaves something to be desired. The lack of communication on these known issues creates unnecessary troubleshooting and frustration by the customer, especially when there is a known fix already addressed. A simple sub Forum on their site would satisfy that.

I think I'll suggest it to them. Perhaps enough customer feedback will help them improve in this area.
 
#321 ·
Hello Trevor,

Thanks for the heads up, for know issues like this it would be nice if they notified us by email since each ECU serial number is registered with them. I'll check my serial number and call them tomorrow to see where I stand. I will second the sub forum suggestion to them, I think it's a good idea.

Thanks

Saul
 
#323 · (Edited)
I just got off the phone with the AEM tech and it looks like I caught break, on April of last year I had to send in my Infinity ECU for repairs due to a comm port and firmware issue and as it turns out when they resolved the firmware problem they also addressed the USB comm issue, so mine is already fixed. Nice! :grin2:

Saul
 
#325 · (Edited)
Hey Trevor,

Glad to see that you are back up and running!
 
#326 · (Edited)
Hi All,

So, today I finished (I hope) everything regarding setting up the software as per Trevors PDF notes (except for AC, I will do it tomorrow as per post 216). As usual I do have few questions/heads up;

1) regarding wheels sensors; How to test them? I have the pdf for filtering the digital one. is that the only sensor need testing? or the other three as well?

2) Is the pdf in post 216 for AC is only an example? or I can use it to setup my A/C?

Also, I would really want to thank you Trevor! you made AEM so easy!

Hakeem
 
#327 · (Edited)
Setup questions answered



Hakeem,

1) You can and should test all of your sensors. You don't need to drive the car to test the sensors. Simply jack the car up and with the ignition on and the Infinity Tuner software up and running and connected to your ECU with the proper channels displayed/logged, simply spin each of the tires by hand as fast as you can. You should see the corresponding channel on the laptop register a speed. If you do, then the sensor is working. Move on to the next tire. I've attached a display of the channels I generally log to see wheel sensor activity. The sensor channels are DRWheelSpeed, DLWheelSpeed, NLWheelSpeed and NRWheelSpeed.

Keep in mind that three of your sensors are VR analog inputs and the one sensor you are converting is a digital input. Digital input sensors will read at very low speeds (well below 5 mph). The VR analog input sensors will need to register close to or greater than 5 mph minimally to show up. So when you are spinning the tires, make sure you spin the analog input sensors fast enough so that they register on your screen.

Once you confirm all sensors are registering, you can then calibrate each of the four sensors in the Infinity Wizard once the vehicle is on the road. Easiest to do with a passenger dialing in the calibration in the Wizard to match your Speedo while you drive.

2) You can use the PDF as described to setup your AC. Just make sure that the input in the example is an available input that you haven't already dedicated or wired to some other function.

 

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#328 ·
Hi,

1) So today I did the AC as per pdf. still I have no GAS in the AC system but will test it later.

2) regarding wheel sensors; I tested two front wheels;
a) NLwheel speed; got reading along with Ground speed.
b) NRwheel didnt get any reading but Ground speed got reading. (is there something I should do in the wizard?

Tomorrow will test rear wheels.

Thanks
Hakeem
 
#329 · (Edited)
I need to know on which one of the sensors you are running the Motec digital converter. I need to know if the one front sensor that is not registering is running off the Motec or running direct as a VR Analog. Once I know that, then I can give you instructions on proper setup in the Infinity.

Also, feel free to send me your calibration file and I can take a look at your wizard setup too.
 
#332 ·
Hey guys,

Well after much deliberation, I finally pulled the trigger on a GTM instead of a 33' Ford. I have been following this thread for a while, but haven't posted anything lately due to taking delivery of the GTM and getting the build started. With that said, its time to look more in-depth on an Infinity system and an LS3 I am looking to get built.

If I remember correctly from reading a while ago, I believe most users here have the Infinity Series 5 setup. I know the traction control is limited to using a Motec digital converter as most/all inputs are taken up with other items.

With that said, the Series 5 is limited to 6 digital inputs, 4 VR/Mag inputs, 9 analogue voltage inputs, and 3 analogue temp inputs. Plus the traction control is also limited to 2 wheel speed. The series 7 goes up to 8 digital inputs, 6 VR/Mag inputs, 17 analogue voltage inputs, and 6 analogue temp inputs. It also adds up to 4 wheel speed. If you guys had the option to go with the Series 7 to be able to utilize more inputs, would it be a benefit to your current setup?

The Series 5 is going for $1,555.50 while the series 7 for my application would be $2,663.28. What do you guys think?

Thanks,
Sean
 
#333 ·
Series 5 vs. Series 7 consideration



Sean,

Looks like you've done your research on the Infinity differences and have a good handle on that. Actually most, if not everyone on this thread has the Infinity 7 series. The Coyote engines are sensor hogs and won't run on a Series 5.

I can tell you that with the Series 7, I sometimes wish there were more inputs. Several of us are really leveraging the series 7 for most all that it has to offer in the way of inputs which is far greater than the factory controls pack PCM.

As for your LS motor, a Series 5 will work just fine. First off you don't have 4 cams to deal with which reduces the input needs right out of the gate. Anyhow, if it were me I would outline every option I intended to run on the LS both current and future and then make sure you have some room for growth for what you can't see today. If going through that exercise the Series 5 will give you everything you want then I wouldn't overbuy on the ECU and stick with the Series 5. Map out all your inputs and outputs first before anything else.

If after your evaluation, both ECU's will provide you with enough inputs and outputs to do what you want then the next step to help you make that decision would be to look at the price difference between the two ECUs ($1,100) and compare that to what the upgrade benefits will give you. For example:

1) As you already identified, 2 wheel traction control versus 4 wheel on the Series 7.

2) Series 5 only has 1 onboard wideband controller. Series 7 has 2 onboard controllers.

3) Series 5 can only accommodate high impedance injectors. Series 7 can accommodate both high and low.

4) Series 5 (1 drive by wire control). Series 7 (2 drive by wire controls)

I would guess that #3 & #4 will be irrelevant. Assuming so, my quick look at your situation says (excluding inputs and outputs) #1 and #2 are what you are getting for another $1,100. Keep in mind that on #2 if you want to run two wideband O2 sensors using the Series 5, you have to run an external wideband controller and feed it as an input consuming one of your available inputs for the extra sensor which will add cost (approx $250 for a single channel). If you intend on just running one wideband then this is a non-issue to consider. But if you want to run two then the $1,100 difference is now about $850 difference. So is $850 worth having a higher end 4-wheel traction control setup?

That's at least my logic as I try to put myself in your shoes to decide. Either way, I'm glad you are considering the Infinity as your ECU platform. I really think you will not be disappointed either way.

Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions. Maybe others will share their views as this is just one person's perspective.
 
#337 ·
ECU Disconnect and check engine light (Solid) comes on

Hi All,

Happy Holidays to all.

So, After I changed wheel sensors and I tested them everything checked Ok. I started welding exhaust and finished. Then this thing started to happen.

When I start the car, it will runs good until it warms up and then engine dies and solid check engine comes on. Also, it just totally die. I mean I can not connect to ECU through my computer. its like its not there. I disconnect the battery for 5 mins. start engine for like 1 minute or less and then again engine stops working and again I cannot connect to ecu. Any idea?

Thanks
Hakeem
 
#338 ·
Hi All,

Happy Holidays to all.

So, After I changed wheel sensors and I tested them everything checked Ok. I started welding exhaust and finished. Then this thing started to happen.

When I start the car, it will runs good until it warms up and then engine dies and solid check engine comes on. Also, it just totally die. I mean I can not connect to ECU through my computer. its like its not there. I disconnect the battery for 5 mins. start engine for like 1 minute or less and then again engine stops working and again I cannot connect to ecu. Any idea?

Thanks
Hakeem
Hakeem, to clarify a few things:

1) With your various builds, this one is the one with the Infinity ECU?

2) If the Infinity, the check engine light is solidly lit before or after the engine dies (this is really important to know)?

3) Do you have a datalog of when it dies?

4) You said you were welding. Were you welding on the car? If so, did you disconnect the battery and ECU before doing any welding?

If you have a datalog, send it to me. Also, try disconnecting the harness plugs on the ECU and then reconnect them.

Once you provide answers we will be able to better guide you.

Trevor
 
#341 ·
Hakeem,

Got your data log. And here are my response to your observations. Nice job on the observations.

Your observations were as follows:

1) MAP reading is a bit flakey?!

2) I still have leak in exhuast on PS.

3) Idle RPM a bit high?

4) battery charging is a bit high?
---------------------------------------------------

1) Yes your MAP signal is a bit jittery. You can go filter this signal which currently is at 30%. To smooth it out a bit you could increase the filtering under the Wizard under Basic Sensors and select MAP Sensor. Then scroll to the bottom. You'll see the filtering there. However, I would not change this yet. This should be a last ditch effort. This may mask what is really going on. If you have an exhaust leak which you mentioned, then your Lambda will flutter. As it flutters your MAP signal will follow. So you really need to get the leak fixed and then re-evaluate your MAP signal. I bet your signal will clean up a bit. Then you can play around with the filter. The goal on the filter is to not overfilter and create a lazy or slow response signal. I wouldn't filter above say 70% to 75% max.

2) See comments above.

3) To change your idle (which is targeted at 900 RPM) go to the idle tab and find the IdleTargetTable [RPM]. Then for the warmed up temperature ranges, change the value from 900 rpm to whatever you want the new idle target to be. You can make these changes while the engine is running if you like. Just make sure you commit the changes.

4) I do see your voltage at 14.9. It might be a little high. I target 14.7 on mine. To change the voltage setpoint you need to change the duty cycle. This is setup on LS0 which is currently set to 35%. Go to the Outputs tab. Find the LS0_Duty [%] table and rase the duty cycle. You can do this while the engine is running. Just start increasing the value for the entire table from 35 to say 40 and then see where your regulated voltage sits. Higher duty cycle lowers the set point and vice-versa.

Other observations

In reference to my earlier statement on your check engine light, I noticed that you don't have your MIL output or engine protection turned on in the wizard. So my comments regarding why the MIL came on is not accurate. That light had to have come on due to some wiring ignition power issue. (I think that was simply a byproduct of your ISIS issue).

Seems like your coolant temp is a bit high. I see your fan running but the temp is up there a bit. Seems like it should be idling at a lower coolant temp. You have your fans kicking on much earlier so not sure why the higher running temp. You might make sure all the air in the coolant system is burped/purged out.

Hope this helps.


Trevor
 
#342 ·
Thanks! I will do so when the car is back from paintshop.

1) I think because I have not 100% finish HVAC system there might still some air in the system. once the car is back from paint I will give it a second look.

2) So again how I do turn the MIL on:grin2:?

3) Also Any idea what RPM I should use for Idle? If I remember correctly My other Coyote builds with the FRPP ecu engine idles at 800 - 850....
 
#349 ·
Yes. If the engine reaches 230* F, a rev limit of 7200 will be enforced. And as the temp increase beyond 230, the RPM limit will continue to be reduced as per the breakpoints set.

I should have originally noted that you may want to scale down the RPM values a bit based on your engine's redline. It is probably too high for your Coyote if it is a stock Gen 1 engine. My engine has a redline limit of 8,100 which is quite a bit higher than factory stock. Thus my first breakpoint of 7200 RPM is about 900 RPM less than my max limit under normal conditions.
 
#350 · (Edited)
Hi All,

its been a while. hope things are going well. So today I took the car for a ride to adjust transmission and wheel speed sensors and vehicle speed. and I didnt know how to do it!

Trevor I know this is a bit too much but could you explain a bit in details how its done (the vehicle speed and wheel speed part)?

Thanks
Hakeem
 
#351 · (Edited)
Answers - Speed Sensor Calibration



Hakeem, first off, I am assuming you have a Speedometer installed in the car (either electronic, GPS or mechanical) that is functioning and accurate. To calibrate the VSS and the 4 wheel speed sensors, you need a good working speedometer in the vehicle and all 5 sensors will require calibration. At the end of this post, I will cover how to calibrate these 5 sensors (super easy).

I got your datalog that you emailed me and just finished reviewing it. The good news here is everything looks to be setup correctly. You have signals reading on all your wheel sensors and your transmission VSS as well. This is good. Also from going back to previous thread posts you made, it appears you followed my lead on converting the analog VR signal to a digital signal using the Motec converter for the 1 wheel and fed it into the Infinity as a digital signal. The only thing that is off on your wheel speed sensors is the speed calibration values. Based on what I am seeing in your datalog, you have everything wired up properly on the wheel sensors. You'll notice that the two drive wheels are in sync with each other and the two non drive wheels are in sync but there is a large delta between the drive wheels and the non-drive wheels. This is because you have the calibration values of the two drive wheels set at 0.387 (frequency to MPH) and the values of the two non-drive wheels set at 0.135. See two pics below. Because you are using the same style wheel speed sensors on all four wheels, this calibration value should be set to the same value for all four inputs or reasonably close. Tire size difference would likely required very slight adjustments from a front wheel to a back wheel. By doing so this will keep all four sensors in sync. Now as for the magic value that you should use to match the actual vehicle speed, you need to calibrate them. On my car the magic value is .093 for all four sensors (does not include the VSS). Depending on your gear set and tire size, your value may be slightly different but may be a good place for you to start and then fine tune from there. Here are a couple of screenshots showing the calibration values I am referencing in your current tune. We'll get back to actually calibrating this in a moment.

Text Font Line Screenshot Number

Text Font Line Screenshot Number


As for your vehicle speed, you are getting a signal read but there is definitely a problem. Before we troubleshoot your VSS (Vehicle Speed), let me go over a few definitions and explanations how all these sensors interact and clarify some terms that AEM uses.

There are "Driven" wheels and "Non-Driven" wheels. Stating the obvious the Driven or "D" sensors are the two rear wheels "L" (Left) and "R" (Right). The Non-Driven "N" sensors are the two front wheels. Thus the designators in the Infinity Wizard - DR, DL, NR, NL. When logging channels you'll notice that AEM uses the following:

DRWheelSpeed
DLWheelSpeed
NRWheelSpeed
NLWheelSpeed
(As described above)

And then AEM uses these channels in addition:

Vehicle Speed
Ground Speed
Drive Wheel Speed

Vehicle Speed is assignable to an available VSS (Transmission), Ground Speed or Drive Wheel Speed. Assuming you have a VSS then this is the best option to assign it as it gives you yet another separate data input on vehicle speed for better traction control tuning and accuracy among other things. You currently have the Vehicle Speed assigned to a VSS input in your tune which is good. And the fact that it is registering some signal tells me you actually have a VSS installed and wired to the ECU.

Ground Speed is a math channel that averages the two Non-Driven wheel speeds.

Drive Wheel Speed is a math channel that averages the two Driven wheel speeds.

Now let's figure out what's going on with your VSS signal. Remind me what transmission you are running. I think it was a Tremec TKO? Also, are you running an OEM VSS that came with the transmission or are you running an aftermarket signal generator that mounts to the mechanical speed output on the trans? I remember posting some answers in this thread to questions about how I set my VSS up. If you are running a Tremec with the factory electronic VSS then this signal is an analog signal and the Infinity can only accept a digital signal. So you have to convert the signal coming out of the transmission to a digital one before you can feed it into the ECU. I covered this in Post #202 and 203, and used a Dakota Digital SGI-5 E signal interface unit to convert the signal.

Once the signal has been converted then it should clean up the output. However, you still need to calibrate this sensor the same way you would calibrate your wheel speed sensors. Currently, your tune has a speed calibration value of 3.0. With my setup, I run 3.5. See pic below.

Text Font Line Screenshot Number


To calibrate your sensors it is easiest to get a helper to ride shotgun in the car. Connect to the ECU and launch the Wizard. Go to "Input Function Assignments". Then navigate to the "Speed & Frequency" tab. This will list all 5 of your sensors. Double click on the sensor you want to calibrate and go to the "vehicle speed calibration" box for that sensor and make your adjustments. It's easiest to get on the highway and cruise about 60 mph and hold the speed as steady as you can per the dash speedo. Then start increasing or decreasing the value until the live data that shows up in the upper righthand corner of the dialog box matches your actual vehicle speed shown on your speedo. Once you are done with that sensor, move on to the next sensor and repeat. And so on. See pic below.

Text Line Font Screenshot Parallel


If you can provide me more info on your VSS and transmission, I may be able to help you troubleshoot further.
 
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