There's not a whole lot of info on installing this trans in roadster, so here's how I did it:
First, obtain a T3650 from 2005-2009 Mustang GT. Getting the shifter linkage with it is very helpful.
Upon purchase, you'll want to install a new slave cylinder. Get one from Ford, or get a Dorman from rockauto. Any other brands are prone to leaking. Installation is 2 bolts.
Next, you'll want a clutch. I'd recommend an Exedy or Valeo if you want a single disc with stock like effort. If your pockets are deeper, there are plenty of fantastic dual discs out there. Before you mount the clutch, you'll want to check to see if your slave needs a shim.
General Understanding:
Factory Hyd. setup
How to measure:
http://www.ramclutches.com/Instructi...SITION1010.pdf
Shim or don't shim as needed, and install the clutch:
With the clutch installed, you need to support the trans. You can use the FF provided cross member, you'll just need to drill out some holes for the Ford trans mount. Order one 7, one 8, and two 9's from Ford:
2007 FORD MUSTANG Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot
You'll need a slip driveshaft made. I had one made by a local shop for under $400. The bolts on the 8.8 flange are the same as the 3650 flange. The 3650 flange is a larger diameter though, so the driveshaft will have different ends. Bolts needed (you need 8 bolts total):
The shifter will need some work. The B&M for 05-09 Mustang GT uses pivot mount that is easy to mount on a plate. I bought some 3/16 steel plate and cut a hole for the shifter to drop through then mounted it to the trans rails:
To reduce the height of the shifter, I just used a die to cut the threads all the way down the stalk. The thread is M12x1.25. Pick your shifter ball.
The shifter works the same as the stock Mustang, only the linkage goes forward over the trans, instead of back of the trans.
Now, to the clutch. I used the stock pieces and bought a new braided line. The braided line includes the special fittings to fit the trans and the Ford master cylinder. The part is:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-139251/
That connects the hydraulics from the trans to the master cylinder. I grafted the OEM master on to a pedal box using some plate steel. The result looks like this:
The nipple off the master is 5/16" and the Wilwood reservoir is 3/8". The working fluid of the clutch is DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. Since it's corrosive, I had a local hydraulic shop make me an EPDM line with transition. Here's everything connected:
And finally, you need to bleed the clutch. My local Advance has a hand vacuum pump loaner. The bleeding instructions are:
Quote:
1. Make sure all hydraulic lines are correctly seated and all bleeder screws tightened.
2. Make sure clutch pedal is in the most upward position.
3. Check the fluid level. Fill the reservoir to the MAX fluid mark.
4. Using a suitable bleeder kit and vacuum pump, install the rubber stopper in the reservoir opening. Make sure it has a tight fit.
5. Holding the rubber stopper in place, operate the vacuum pump to 15-20 inches of vacuum. Hold the vacuum for 1 minute, then quickly release the vacuum. Remove the tools.
6. Check the reservoir and fill to MAX level if needed.
7. Depress and release the clutch 10 to 12 times until effort is consistent and positive at the top of clutch pedal travel.
8. Repeat 4, 5, and 6 two additional times or until clutch effort is consistent.
9. Install reservoir cap.
10. Check the reservoir and test for normal operation.
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And that concludes your 2005-2009 T3650 transmission installation. I chose this transmission for my Coyote for a few reasons. It's readily available and cheap (lots of $500-$750 low mile units out there), it's set up for a hydraulic clutch, the remote shifter allows an ergonomic install location, and lastly they've been proven to hold 450+ hp. Hope that helps.
No complaints. The shifter is very short throws and notchy (which I like). Once I get my brake master cylinder issue sorted out I'll take it for a longer test drive and get better video.
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