more ?'s ...head removal

[kinneyb]

Okay I'm this far in the engine teardown to install new PI SOHC heads.



My haynes manual says that I need a special tool to lock the cams in position to keep them from rotating when I remove the sprocket and drive chains. It goes here ...



Well... I figured the best place to get these would be my local ford dealer...NOT!!! they didn't have them ...doubted that I could order them ...and their mechanics said they were using things they cobbled up when they needed. (Remind me NOT to take mine there for maintenance work.)

Has anybody done this...replaced old heads with new ones. I took one of the new heads out of the box and it did not have the lock holding the cam in the timed position. I know that these things must go together timed properly or the valves and pistons become to close, war breaks out, and stuff gets broken.

I'm thinking (in trouble already) that maybe I could put a set of vise-grip pliers right here...


locked on this area of the cam shaft and against the head to keep it from turning while I removed the drive chain and sprocket, and then the head. Then move to the other head and do the same.

Then I have to get cams on the new heads indexed to the proper position to install them. My Haynes manual is not a lot of help here.

Has any one done this? I need some assurance that the direction I'm going will work.

Thanks
Kinney

[rednour1]

When I did my PI Head swap, I used the Ford Racing PI heads right out of the box. I found great directions on the web. Do a search for PI head swap. There are lots of sites with directions out there. I have them bookmaked on my computer at home but not here.

I don't remember locking anything down, but it did take 57 turns of the crank before my alignment marks lined back up. A web site I was using for instructions said it would take over 50. I can post the web sites that helped, but don't have them at work.

You will need longer cam gear bolts (which are torque to yeild). My S.H. Motorsports kit, had many many items missing, including the coolant nipple that needs changed out.

I will post tonight.

Thanks,

[rednour1]

Mark your cam gear bolt in realation to the chain (paint a mark from one to the other, and be sure to install it the exact same. That was basically the only alignment with the new heads that I did.

[Cobrabilly]

I'd line up all the timing marks on all gears and the chain before removing the chain.

This way, the crank is already where you need it when it starts to go back together.

Then you only need to align the cam gears later on.

Keep us posted with progress and pix, this is a great thread.

Thank ahead of time, Bill

[Domino]

Since you don't plan on re-installing the heads, you don't need to lock the cams. Just make sure the engine is NOT at TDC first. From Chilton Manual: "For a SOHC put the crank at TDC then turn the engine counter-clockwise 45 degrees. At this position the crank keyway should be at approx 9:00 and all pistons will be below the deck height." Then get the style of valve spring compressor that uses what looks like two hooks that hook under the camshaft as a leverage point for compressing the spring. Some auto parts stores have a program for loaning out this tool. Check before you buy one. Compress each valve spring and remove the rockers, but leave the valve retainers in place. This will take the spring pressure off the cam that would normally make the cam jump time, and insure that all valves are fully closed so they can't make any contact with the pistons. You will then be free to remove the timing chain setup without worries. After that it's just a matter of using the right hardware to install your new heads.

The spring compressor should look like the one in this link
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...&currentPage=0

You can usually find a loaner or a much cheaper version so don't spend $112.00 on that particular one. It's the link I found the soonest that had a picture for reference.

HTH,
Dave

[Cobrabilly]

Good ideas Domino. Yeah TDC, that's what I was talking about.

Those chains and gears can take flesh off with alarming speed and efficiency. Ask me how I know.

Having the new cams locked down (one way or another) when assembling the chain and gears not only keeps them timed, BUT is a safety thing too.

Hope that helps, Bill

[Domino]

Cobrabilly,

I had to edit my last post. On the single OHC the engine should NOT be at TDC. Sorry about the confusion. It's easier to get the crank back to TDC once the heads are off then to put it there and risk valve contact when doing the above operation.

Dave

[Cobrabilly]

Sorry, you lost me now.

How can having the #1 piston at TDC hurt when removing the rockers?

By that I mean rotating the engine before disassembly can't possibly hurt it, it rotates at thousands of RPMs every day right?

[Cobrabilly]

Allright, now I've read your "edited" post.

If Ford wants all the pistons "below deck", then that's how we do it.

Question answered, before it was asked, thanks to editing.

Thanks for clearing that up, but I wish you'd have done it with an additional post, rather than an edit. It makes my question look stupider than it really is

Thanks, Bill

[Domino]

When you use the spring compressor you are essentially doing what the camshaft normally does, pushing the valve into the open position. This gives you the clearance needed to slip the rocker out. If the engine is at TDC the valve will hit the piston and there won't be enough clearance from compressing the spring to allow the rocker to slip out. If the valve hits the piston, there is always chance for damage either to the valve or piston face. It will be an easier job as well as minimal chance for damage if the engine is backed off TDC.

Dave

[Cobrabilly]

Thanks Domino.

Now there's some logic to the need for other than TDC.
Reading the manual always helps, so does having a decent manual to begin with.

Does it show that I'm really a old school RWD V8 Pontiac guy, and not a Ford guy at heart?

[Domino]

By the way for those using the DOHC engine the procedure is a little different. You have to put the engine at TDC then turn it clockwise 90 degrees to get #1 cyl at BDC. After removing the rockers for #1 cyl. you can then turn the crank clockwise another 90 degrees and remove them from the next cyliner in the firing order repeating this procedure until all cylinder's rockers are removed. This will ensure enough clearance to do the job without interference between the valves and pistons.

Dave

[kinneyb]

Wow, thanks guys. I did read further in my haynes manual and the information Domino gave me was there. I didn't find it before because it was under 'camshaft removal' and I didn't read that part...I wanted to remove the whole head, not just the camshaft. But while I' standing in the garage looking at the head, rolling a tool around in my hand...IT HITS me!



I wonder if that will fit the recess?



WoW ... fits like a glove!!
Now to make something that will mimic that and hold the cam from turning; and I returned from the scrap pile with this...a peice of 1/2" steel plate



Make a few cuts and I think I'm on my way to the solution to locking the cams in place for safe simple removal of the heads.



I got interupted and haven't finished it yet but here's where I'm going:two peices 2" x 4" and two peices 3/8" sq x 2" + long each of which is inserted into a hole in the center of the 2 x 4 peice and welded so that the 3/8ths peice inserts into the cam recess when the 4" side of the peice rests on the rear of the head surface.

I think this will work. I will add to the thread when I get to try it out.

Kinney

[kinneyb]

Ok I'm back and here is the tool. I got a short peice of 3/8ths square stock and cut two 1 1/2 " peices. they were an inteference fit so I sanded them a little until they fit into the cam sockets, then I drilled a 3/8" hole in each plate at the appropriate height (centered on the cam recess).



Then I took a square file and squared up the round hole untill the square stock would almost fit in (a slight interference fit)



then I took a short handled sledgehammer and drove them them into the plates



Like so...

and...

[kinneyb]

here is what it looks like...


and here is where it goes...


on both sides, in the rear of the cams.

man this is driving me crazzy (my dial up ips has disconnected me 5 times while I've been trying to upload the pics to Phtobucket and then post them)

Kinney

[Domino]

Looks like your on the right track. I'm surprised you haven't posted pics of the heads sitting off the engine yet. It's true what they say with nescessity comes ingenuity.

Dave

[Bigblockbandit]

I found DOHC tools on ebay and corral. People buy them then resell them when done. I actually borrowed the proper tool from a local mechanic to set the cams.

[kinneyb]

Hey Domino, I would but right now I'm building a handicap ramp for some folks in town, more money for parts...you know
Kinney