On Friday I got a VIN, title and plates so can now drive beyond the 'hood! But . . . it over-heated. Radiator was warm so getting circulation, but rad fan did not turn on. 2000 4.6 SOHC; I-Squared diet; I-Squared Million system. The 3-prong connector at top of photo has ORG/LB, RD/ORG & Black wires (Diet #22, 23 & 24?) and plugs into female connector on fan body. Per wiring diagram this should control fan. Anybody got a clue about what I screwed up? I'm stumped.
I will look when I get a sec if someone else doesnt respond first..
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#5791 Delivered November 25, 06 281 SOHC-04 GT Donor First start January 31 2008.
Go carted April 3, 2008
First drive with Body on May 11, 2008
Self wire diet. http://buolmotorsports.blogspot.com/
but just to be sure post a closeup picture of that connector and also a picture of your fan, the fan assembly itself has another small wiring harness. Just making sure.
Just a thought.
Make sure the temp sender for the fan relay is not wired to the temp sensor for the gauge, and visa/versa.
An easy mistake, seems most often the answer to these problems after an engine swap/install.
Often you can simply swap the sensors in there holes, depending on the year of your 4.6.
Good luck.
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MkIII #5877
4.6 SOHC, T45, 4-link, 5 lug, 4 disc, SN95 spindles
Harness diet, Diablo-Sport tune, Halibrand Cobra IIIs
Champ pan, King Cobra clutch, brakes and suspension all new
Ford D3 red and HP white.
Pro-built, start to finish, it's all me :)
Sold to a woman who gave it to hubby as suprise B-day gift.
Trophy for new owner, June 09
OH! If I remember correctly, by unplugging the fan temp sender, the relay will kick the fan on, as a fail-safe. Key in run position, of course
You can at least test the fan this way, or at most run the car temporarily for a fun cruise without fear of overheating it.
Hope that helps, Bill
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MkIII #5877
4.6 SOHC, T45, 4-link, 5 lug, 4 disc, SN95 spindles
Harness diet, Diablo-Sport tune, Halibrand Cobra IIIs
Champ pan, King Cobra clutch, brakes and suspension all new
Ford D3 red and HP white.
Pro-built, start to finish, it's all me :)
Sold to a woman who gave it to hubby as suprise B-day gift.
Trophy for new owner, June 09
Last edited by Cobrabilly; 02-19-2008 at 03:21 PM..
Reason: Key on addition
Bill, I think that's a great clue. With the coolant temp sensor disconnected, and key in run, the fan does not move. My Haynes book says resistance at the sensor drops as the temp rises, hence the fan should run with no resistance, right? It doesn't, therefore the problem is probably not the sensor. but perhaps the fan, wiring from computer to fan, or the computer. Right? Ideas on how to chase problem?
Sergio, you asked for a close shot of the little round red connector. I don't have A/C so this is a non-issue if it's an A/C connector. (A/C in AZ? Nah, it's 70 degrees today.)
More clues. The oval connector to the rad fan has 3 wires. Black is ground. I checked it with a continuity tester and it is grounded. Next, I used a tester (type w/o battery) to find that there's no power to the other 2 wires when sensor unplugged & key in run. Now it looks like fan might be okay, but problem is wiring from ECU, or ECU . . . or CCRM?
On my 01, there's a fuse box for the fan that is independent of the engine bay power distribution box fuses. Its in a housing about the size of a match box car package on the right side of the engine bay. If the fuse is blown, no fan. Next would be the relays in the CCRM. Based on the temp signal the PCM will send a signal to the relay to either go low or high on the fan.
Have you tried putting power straight to the fan to see if it runs?
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MKIII #5684, 2001 4.6 SOHC Bullitt Donor, Cobra Brakes, T3650, 3 link, FFR Konis F/R, Donor received 1/13/2006, Kit received 9/14/2006, First Start 7/28/2007, Candy Apple Red, Charcoal Silver and Black Stripes, Foose Nitrous Chrome Wheels, BFG KDW IIs, Graduated 9/7/2008, 5/19/2009 Dyno 307hp 347ftlb, 1/24/2010 Sold Barrett-Jackson $55k
After leaving it for a while and some thinking I tried it with the sensor unplugged and started the engine . . . fan runs! Fan would not run with just the key on, but runs when engine is running, go figure. Now I know that the fan is good and the wiring to the fan is good. Then, while the engine was still running, I plugged the wire back onto the temp sensor and the fan stopped. Unplugged it and fan started again. So, if I'm correct, the wire from the temp sensor to the ECU is good because it communicates when it is connected or unconnected. But, the temp sensor was cold and normally wouldn't trip the fan. Next, I think I should get the engine up to temperature and try the same test - unplug and replug the sensor. Does this sound right?
Sounds like things are working right. Mine cuts the fan off when I turn the engine off too. When you get the motor up to temp it should kick on by itself, then if you unplug the temp sensor the fan should stay running. Took mine a while to warm up enough in the garage to trip the sensor. About 15-20 minutes idling. Then again, my garage was about 40 degrees too. If the body is on it should help hold in the heat.
John
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If you can't laugh at yourself, you're too darn serious; enjoy life!!
Online Golden Rule: Never post anything online you wouldn't say to someone's face.
MKIII #5684, 2001 4.6 SOHC Bullitt Donor, Cobra Brakes, T3650, 3 link, FFR Konis F/R, Donor received 1/13/2006, Kit received 9/14/2006, First Start 7/28/2007, Candy Apple Red, Charcoal Silver and Black Stripes, Foose Nitrous Chrome Wheels, BFG KDW IIs, Graduated 9/7/2008, 5/19/2009 Dyno 307hp 347ftlb, 1/24/2010 Sold Barrett-Jackson $55k
Thanks to you all, I've solved my over-heating problem. After a long search checking the radiator, radiator fan, temp sensor, wiring, CCRM, ECU, thermostat . . . and my patience, I found that the Auto Meter Ultralite water temp gauge was reading very high! In a few minutes from cold start the gauge was rising to 250, so I'd shut the engine down. During previous go-kart starts the gauge was fine. I took the water temp at the thermostat with a meat thermometer (don't tell my wife) to find the true temp. Removed the dash to check wiring and found no problems, no loose connections. Reinstalled dash and temp gauge works fine now. Go figure! Perhaps something I did removing & installing dash, or perhaps some of the profanity in the garage scared the gremilns away. Just drove the first 25 miles on the odometer and all's well. Problem solved, but the cause is a mystery!
Thanks for the help.
Pete
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