What media are you using? I have the same cabinet and get very good results using the glass beads that they sell at Harbor Freight. They take a little longer to remove stubborn paint and rust, but, the finish is great for painting.
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FFR 5197 Mark II Roadster 427w Complete 6/28/2006
FFR 0058 33 Hot Rod BOSS 347 w/dual carbs
1968 GT500 4-speed, low miles SOLD 11/11/11
1965 Mustang GT Fastback
2012 BOSS 302
This is the aluminum oxide media 70 grit. I wanted to use this on the "steel" parts I was going to eventually paint. I do have 25lbs. of glass bead as well. I need to try that and see how it looks but I was reserving that for aluminum parts.
__________________ Project: SNKVNNM
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║FFR #4883: 347CID|CompCam Magnum 286HR|Vic. Jr. heads|Hurricane Intake
║Mighty Demon 650DP|IRS w/Torsen T2 & 3.55|MSD ignition system
║Mallory pump/filter/reg.|Hallibrand 17" w/275-45R17 & 315-35R17|
║Original I-Squared 1+1 System ☺ ☺☺
╚═════════════════════════════════════════════════ ═══
Al,
I was thinking the same thing but I noticed in his cleaned up pics of the spindle that he had taped around the back of the bearings. Might be OK but I would still be tempted to disassemble, clean and repack them as a minimum. This might be a case of while your in there you might as well put in new bearings for a couple of bucks. BTW, a couple of layers of electrical tape is good for keeping the sand off of sections you don't want blasted as long as you don't hold the blaster on it too long. Masking tape will get torn up pretty easy.
Definitely install new bearings. There’s no way you can mask well enough to keep them clean. They’re like sand magnets and unless you put them in a parts washer and remove all of the grease and start over you can't get them clean. Beside that, wheel bearings are cheap.
__________________ Fred S
"Cut your own wood and you warm yourself twice" - Henry Ford
Do you have the item # of that sand blast cabinet? ...........Thanks Jeff
__________________
Jeff Benaway
FFR 7430 302 built from small block , B cam, Gt-40 heads, BBk headers,SA 570 elec choke,t5 trans, 3:73 rearend with 3-link, 17 in FFR halibrands with Sumitomo tires 245's and 315's.
I have that blaster and it works terrible! I've tried all types of valve adjustments but just can not get the thing to spray worth a da$%. Are your valves all full open?
As for the cabinet can you fit a set of cyl heads in it?
#38440 for $99.99 at Harbor Freight. This is the bench model. They have two bigger ones; one is top open but larger, another is side open and has legs attached to it; probably could swallow a diff. but not sure about a T5 unless it's in sections. [img]smile.gif[/img]
__________________ Project: SNKVNNM
╔═════════════════════════════════════════════════ ═══
║FFR #4883: 347CID|CompCam Magnum 286HR|Vic. Jr. heads|Hurricane Intake
║Mighty Demon 650DP|IRS w/Torsen T2 & 3.55|MSD ignition system
║Mallory pump/filter/reg.|Hallibrand 17" w/275-45R17 & 315-35R17|
║Original I-Squared 1+1 System ☺ ☺☺
╚═════════════════════════════════════════════════ ═══
I have that blaster and it works terrible! I've tried all types of valve adjustments but just can not get the thing to spray worth a da$%. Are your valves all full open?
As for the cabinet can you fit a set of cyl heads in it?
Originally posted by 331 Notch: </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Also go a 40lb pressure blaster.
I have that blaster and it works terrible! I've tried all types of valve adjustments but just can not get the thing to spray worth a da$%. Are your valves all full open?
As for the cabinet can you fit a set of cyl heads in it? </font>[/QUOTE]Supposedly, it would fit; tight! but it might fit but not a whole lot of room left to manuever. Hmm, the pressurized one didn't work well???? I'll have to try it later. If it's really that bad, I know of some house painters I could probably sell it to; might be good for stripping house paint but I'm not into that.
Oh, as far as bearing, yeah, I heard some grinding in one of them. I'll tear them down and see what part numbers I need.
__________________ Project: SNKVNNM
╔═════════════════════════════════════════════════ ═══
║FFR #4883: 347CID|CompCam Magnum 286HR|Vic. Jr. heads|Hurricane Intake
║Mighty Demon 650DP|IRS w/Torsen T2 & 3.55|MSD ignition system
║Mallory pump/filter/reg.|Hallibrand 17" w/275-45R17 & 315-35R17|
║Original I-Squared 1+1 System ☺ ☺☺
╚═════════════════════════════════════════════════ ═══
I have the 40 lb pressurized sand blaster from HF and it works really good. It EATS rust off of things very fast.
I did get some small pebbles stuck in it the first time I tried to use it and had to take the valves apart and clean them out. After that I just ran all of my sand into a piece of screen and then into the blaster to catch the big stuff.
Cody
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FFR #3582 Fox-Lake 306,TFS TW heads,TF Stage 2 Cam, TF Track Heat Intake, Vortech SC-trim, 42 lb injectors, IRS 3.27,4 into 4's, FFR A arms, 15:1 FR, Sube seats, carbon dash,Tri-state radiator, Team III wheels, 3550 II,Crane Ignition,
I have the same blaster, How do you guys keep your filters from getting all clogged up? After 10 minutes or so I get media pushing out of the top cover seal. The first time I used it in the garage and had media all over the floor. I keep it outside now and I wear a mask while blasting.
It does work good, just the media gets all over the place.
Go Fast
__________________
FFR No 3304, 351W, IRS, Ferrari red no stripes
Where are your valves set at? Full open? When I put them all to full open it spews a ton of media with little pressure. I have pressure set where instructions say too and am using aluminum oxide.
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