According to the manual, it's not mandatory you cover them but they'd look kinda ugly if you ask me. You DO completely drain the fluid, then can cork all 4 of them with some bolts, HOWEVER, you might want to drill a hole on one or two of these bolts to allow 'some' air to move in and out.
I "believe" (I don't have a kit right now) the kit comes with two new bushings for the rack to mount to the frame; can someone confirm?
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So does that mean I remove the 3 tubes that run along the steering rack (2 bent lines, and one straight that runs from rubber boot to rubber boot) and plug all 6 holes?(the group of 4, and 2 along the rack)
If you like the feel of power steering, and haven't driven a manual car, you may want to use that donor rack as a core exchange.
I drove one with the non-powered donor rack, and pulled mine off the car and got an 18:1 manual rack from whitby's.
For the bushings, you'll need the rubber things in the rack...the kit comes with an insert to put in the bolts that come with the kit to take up space. I also got the aluminum bushings to replace the rubber ones. According to Whitby's, they take the play out of the rack since they are solid instead of rubber.
Not sure if you want to spend the money, but it's something to consider. It wasn't that much money, but since steering is something you do everytime you turn a corner, I wanted to spend the money. I got my entire steering setup from Whitby's...the steering shaft, Rag joint eliminator, shaft & offset bushings.
the unpowered donor rack isnt a whole lot of fun, although i drove my car around with it for quite a while before i added power steering. the donor rack is far inferior to a nice manual rack- for one thing the raio is too fast for a manual rack. one can have problems with the rag joint too- its doesnt transfer the torque smoothly. not sure why but after i had mine apart once it never worked right again.
FFCars member #9 - FFR 1630 http://thevenom.net 351 V8, 302 V8, Renesis, whatever's in a Murano
The 4 holes at the top are not an issue as far as plugs go. They go to diverters which allow the fluid to flow into/ out of the 2 holes at opposite ends of the piston in the rack itself. If you plug the two lower holes as you move the rack you are fighting vacuum and pressure.
I squirted a little oil into the lower portion and used one of the donor PS lines to connect the two outlets. Seals the holes, but avoids the problem. I have -AN plugs in three of the uppers, just don't have one to fit the last hole.
That will hold me until I get to a rack upgrade sometime in the future. I am just go-karting now so I really don't know where the upgrade will fit in the priority list. [img]smile.gif[/img]
Hope this helps
FFR4247K 306EFI, 75mm MAF, 70mm TB, Explorer Intake, 24# injectors, 1.7 rockers, 10:1 compression, T5, 8.8 3.08 3-Link, Coil overs, front & rear VPM bars, and 315 Mod
If you can afford it now, replace the donor with an flaming river 18:1 ratio manual rack. You will do it later even if you start with the donor rack. I drove about 1 year and replaced the donor with FR. The difference was amazing.
Also do a search as there are many ideas on what rack to use along with the pros n cons You can also get a rack from a 79 mustang at AutoZone for example that is the same as the flaming river for less money. Doesn't look as pretty though. This is from my poor memeory, so like I said, do a search.
You can also buy the P/S pump relocation bracket from ford for about $45 and keep the power steering. I like it [img]smile.gif[/img]
And consider the fact that the master of miles is finally getting around to putting P/S on his ride, aren't you Ralph? [img]tongue.gif[/img]
Mike Baumann - FFR2822, GT40 AL heads, E303, Tristate 4into4s, 3.73s, Cobra Intake, custom chip. HOK Oriental Blue Kandy(KBC04) over Black(BC25).
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