Here are a couple pics my son snapped Saturday morning between the rain drops. We put the body on so that we could orient the dash. I was really happy with the way the 295-50-15 rear tires tucked up inside the body. Frame clearance is very good also after the surgery. Front tires are 235-60-15. I almost went 245. Glad I didnt't. The radiator in case anybody is wondering is from Afco. I'm really happy with it.
Thanks for the compliments guys. The wheels are PSE GT-40.
Kind of hard to miss that big ol' box poking thru the firewall. It's not so bad with the body on though. I thought about going without but decided having it would give "she who must be obeyed" one less thing to gripe about.
Could you give me some specifics on your radiator. What you asked for when ordering, price, installation problems & pics. They are a local company to me and I would like to do business with them if possible. Thanks.
FFR# 4880-Ford Racing 385hp 351W, TKO, 3-link/coilovers, 3:55 gears, color is Go ManGo, and it does. Cobra sold summer 06.
I have IRS and noticed that you're 3 link so this probably won't help you much. I ordered the pin drive length IRS then got the wheels from PSE which have a 4" backspace on rears. Then I embraced a "take no prisoners" approach to making things fit and went to work on the 2 x 3 frame member. I had to take a couple of bites out of it but finally got it cut back far enough that it's not going to kiss the tire. I also jiggled the rod ends on the control arms a little to try to get the tire into the sweet spot but I didn't gain much there. I'm content with the results so far.
I'm trying to get this thing done in time for Knotts. Does March have 60 days in it?
Afco is very good to work with. I ordered part number 80101-FN for $179.99 and requested they remove and weld up the filler. They charged $20.00 for that. I didn't find out until later that they would also relocate the upper hose inlet as well. That is a MUST DO mod as there is no way it will work otherwise. I had a local shop do that for me for $30.. So I've got $230 in this thing which is pretty reasonable IMO for what it is, and fits great. I think Afco charges $30 also to relocate the inlet. Just tell them what you want.
Hi Frank, what would've been the problem with the 245's in front? That's what I was planning and I want to make sure I know the problems I'll be hitting . Thanks! [img]graemlins/yellow.gif[/img] --Bret
FFR 4750. Licensed and driving in Gel-coat...(IRS, 351W, 4x4 pipes, probably yellow & black)
They stick out beyond the lip of the fender. Also they're taller which makes it harder to get the front down to correct ride height without having the tire get into the fender. Now that I can see the 235's on my own car, I would not consider anything larger. I shudder when I think that I almost went the other way.
The normal location is on the front of the tank which matches a stock Mustang. Unfortunately that aims it right at the suspension brackets and there is no way to navigate around it. An OEM Mustang brass radiator has an "ear" that moves the inlet out about an inch so you can kind of snake your way around the suspension brackets, but you can still wind up with a kink in the short hose. With an aftermarket radiator, this is the best way to solve all that. You'll notice that in addition to welding on the elbow I had them adjust for the laid back radiator position by angling the inlet up. I eyeballed it when I did it but I can measure it tonight if you want.
Car looks great, you'll be on the road in no time. I noticed your heater. is that a tri-states heater? if so, i noticed that you have the heater box sticking into the engine compartment more than usual. Is that so the box does not interfere with the gauges? I am thinking of installing a heater as well, but I also, want a glove box. Do you have any pictures of you heater installation?
Kit Received 12/4/03, 1st go-kart ride 6/10/05, titled on 1/21/06 - stack-injected 408W, pin-drive with Team III wheels.
That's the box heater from Whitby. If you want it all (and I did) this is one of the very few ways to do it. I have the Finishline glove box also. I'm at work right now so this is the only photo I've got access to, but you can get an idea of what's going on.
After grappling with alternatives, I rationalized (to myself) A: a mirror dash was not that important to me B: that once the body is on the heater just kind of sits back there behind the carb. You do have to be careful with the gauges. Having the heater in this spot limits your options as far as placement is concerned if your using the mechanical gauges, which I am. I was slightly bummed by that but got over it pretty quickly with the help of my forum friends . You just have to move the water and oil temp gauges into a spot where the sending tubes clear the box. Not too big a deal.
If you have the electric gauges you should have no problems.
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