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Old 10-05-2012, 08:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
Rod
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Need advise from a glass expert

We have a large round, tempered, solid glass table in our kitchen. Its mounted on four 1 1/2 inch stainless steel posts to the island in the centre of the kitchen. It was installed in August of 2010 and in August of 2011 it came loose. By loose, I mean the glue, that was supposed to be permanent, released its hold from the glass. The underside of the glass is textured, not completely flat. The glue seems to hold to the stainless posts.

It has come loose again, roughly a year after being re-glued. The company that supplied the table glued it to the posts using a glue that requires a UV light to make it go off. Sorry, I don't know what its called.

The supplier now claims the glue will not hold to the textured side and they want to drill holes and add a ⅛ inch thick cap to each post. I'm not convinced that is the best solution because the caps will invite any glass set down on them to tip over. But ... if that's the only "good" solution then we'll have to live with it.

Are there any other glues that could work and would be clear/translucent?
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If it's a UV cured product it is probably pretty good and your particular setup is just such that it can't handle the loading the glue is seeing.

Try looking at the 3M stuff. They have some VERY strong epoxies, but I'm not sure they are available retail. We have a distributor here that I deal with, so if you need something particular that you want to give a try of, you can PM me and I will see what I can do. I can tell you that the stuff I use frequently in composite gluing/welding is in the DP series and it is cheaper to find it out on the web than through this supplier.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:04 PM   #3 (permalink)
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whoa! - they want to drill holes in tempered glass?

from my days with fish tanks, I thought that was a total no-no?
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would be inclined to CAREFULLY lightly abrade the mounting interfaces and use a quality epoxy.

You can't drill tempered glass (well, you can but it is asking for DRAMA), and if you've had their glue fail twice then......
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Rod,

Why is it coming loose? Because of the textured surface or because there are not enough supports and the glass is being lifted off the supports (due to downward pressure somewhere else, think teeter totter)?

If its not adhering to the textured surface it might be that the texture is to deep/rough and there is not sufficient surface to adhere to. There are a ton of glues, silicones, epoxies out there that might work. If its due to pressure, you need more supports.

If it is tempered, you won't be drilling it. If you try, you will end up with 10 zillion little pieces of glass all over your kitchen. If caps are required, you will have to get a new piece of glass that is drilled then tempered. There are also low profile caps available for certain diameter supports.

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Old 10-06-2012, 12:32 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Built many a fish tank just using marine silicon, never came undone and it is flexible too.
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Old 10-06-2012, 12:55 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Did they etch the glass before applying the glue to both the steel and the glass? I'd try to etch it first to make it more rough and therefore letting the glue stick better.
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:04 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash View Post
If it's a UV cured product it is probably pretty good and your particular setup is just such that it can't handle the loading the glue is seeing.

Try looking at the 3M stuff. They have some VERY strong epoxies, but I'm not sure they are available retail. We have a distributor here that I deal with, so if you need something particular that you want to give a try of, you can PM me and I will see what I can do. I can tell you that the stuff I use frequently in composite gluing/welding is in the DP series and it is cheaper to find it out on the web than through this supplier.
Thanks for the 3M recommendation. I'll talk to them about 3M and see if they are OK.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rockpool View Post
whoa! - they want to drill holes in tempered glass?

from my days with fish tanks, I thought that was a total no-no?
The lady I talk to at the glass supplier claimed they can un-temper the glass. I am a little puzzled because I believed once glass is tempered ... thats it. She said they can heat the glass to 900+° and let it cool slowly ... I guess I have to trust her judgement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobra Cory View Post
Did they etch the glass before applying the glue to both the steel and the glass? I'd try to etch it first to make it more rough and therefore letting the glue stick better.
I don't believe they did etch the glass. Its quite flat and uniform on the top surface but the underside surface is not smooth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Go Hard or Go Home View Post
Rod,

Why is it coming loose? Because of the textured surface or because there are not enough supports and the glass is being lifted off the supports (due to downward pressure somewhere else, think teeter totter)?

If its not adhering to the textured surface it might be that the texture is to deep/rough and there is not sufficient surface to adhere to. There are a ton of glues, silicones, epoxies out there that might work. If its due to pressure, you need more supports.

If it is tempered, you won't be drilling it. If you try, you will end up with 10 zillion little pieces of glass all over your kitchen. If caps are required, you will have to get a new piece of glass that is drilled then tempered. There are also low profile caps available for certain diameter supports.

I'll pass on those photos of the caps and see if that will work. The ones we were shown before installation were 1/8 inch thick.
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Old 10-06-2012, 11:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Our daughter has a large round glass table top that sits on several stainless steel posts built into the table leg supports.
The interface between the stainless post & glass is a 1/2 inch diameter soft clear gel pad.
When we recently attempted to move it, the glass was literally stuck to the steel posts via these little gel pads.
We had to literally pry the gel pads off the steel & or the glass with a razor blade.
Maybe this pad concept would be a better solution to your problem.
good luck !!
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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let them drill but stand back

and watch
the thicker the glass the more it will expand from side to side

i seen a 24x84x1/2" piece blow up in a fellow tradesmen hands it was 8" from his chin and the temperature change from cool inside to hot outside all it took was a slight knick and it blew busted him in the chin knocked his smoke out of his mouth and we both looked at each other with a wow, i picked the glass out of Micks chin and we picked up a bunch of glass just outside the dock of the dept. store

oh wear your safety glasses then let them make you a new table, because this one will be in pieces all over unless its laminated
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