Triumph TR6 advice?

[TNCobra]

Looking for my next project and came across this.



1972 triumph tr6.
rebuilt engine.
rebuilt trans and new clutch.
front and rear end new bushings and seals.
tires exc.
top in great condition.
interior done, carpets, seats, and panels all new.
new paint.
registration up to date.
runs and drives great.

Not really much of a project, but it is priced right and looks like it would be a fun car as a driver. I have first right at the car early next week. Anything TR6 specifically to look out for besides generic car rust, electrical, drive/stop straight etc?

[dallas_]

Maybe Greg M will weigh in. He spent a fair amount of time getting edumacated on those cars.

[JKleiner]

I'll second getting in touch with Greg.

Nice looking car! I've always loved 'em and almost went down that road before discovering FFR.

Jeff

[mrmustang]

The major "generic rust" issue that these cars have is the the crossmember where the lower control arm for the rear end is bolted on. if they are rusted through, expect to pull the body off the chassis (TR6's have a full frame and a unibody bolted to them) in order to replace the crossmember(s). Other areas are where the lower A arms bolt on in the front suspension. Otherwise, the frame is pretty much indestructible. What type of price are they asking?


Bill S.

[ROB J]

Yep, talk to Greg M. He is the Triumph TR-6 guru on this board. My only advice would be watch the Tin Worm disease, as most of these cars have that disease. Most were rust buckets when only 5-10 years old.

[rich grsc]

Watch for crankshaft end play. They didnt like having someone ride the clutch, the thrust bearing would go, and then the crank would go.

[Greg_M]

TNCobra. I sent you a PM. Call me.

Greg

[ZwickFF]

I had a 1972 TR6 back in 1980 and it was a great car. It is the only car I have owned that I regret ever selling. It was a Carlifornia car with no rust. The major thing I would look for is the integrity of the front suspension bracket that is welded to the frame. I don't remember if it is the upper or lower but mine broke loose while I was making a u-turn and I heard a bang. Then when I applied the brakes it about pulled the wheel out of my hands and the car jumped to the right. Lucky I was going slow on a wide street. When I took it into a frame shop to have it repaired I was told this was a weak spot in the car design since the bracket metal was too thin with a poor quality weld. I had a new bracket welded in and he rewelded the braket on the other side. I only had the car another year or so after that and didn't drive it much since it was my weekend car so I don't know how well the repair worked or if it had any other problems. TR6s are a fun car and I agree with the others on this site about be cautious for rust damage. Just remember even if it checks out well the car is British with Lucas electrical so be prepared to do a lot of work and repair on it. It's just part of owning an old British car but the smiles you have when your driving it are worth it. Next to my side pipe Cobra the TR6 exhaust tone is probably one of the sweetest sounds it just needs more volume.

[TNCobra]

Thanks for the responses and to Greg that just spent a half hour with me on the phone. I have my checklist ready for my inspection next week. I'll let you know how it goes.

[dallas_]

Cool. Please do keep us posted. I had a TR6 many years ago and really liked that car. Wish I still had it.

There goes Greg, helping someone out again. Some people.

[Greg_M]

Originally Posted by TNCobra

Thanks for the responses and to Greg that just spent a half hour with me on the phone. I have my checklist ready for my inspection next week. I'll let you know how it goes.

Ken,
It was great chatting with you. I wanted to add, as I think of more things, that the overall drive ability of a good 6 is that it basically drives, well like a normal car. It should ride surprising well too, even smoother than you thought

I've driven a dozen and the good ones just do everything pretty well. There should be no rattles, no shakes, the brakes although not up to todays standards are power assist and will skid the tires with some effort but they are not scary. Cornering should be precise and balanced (some under-steer) and the steering is very tight and precise with no wandering. It should self-center well and drives/stops hands free anytime. It's a tad heavy until walking speed and then it's perfect.

When warm, the engine should light right off with no pedal and idle smoothly at 850 rpm. Oil pressure should be 75+ when cold and 60+ above 2,000 rpm when warm with 30+ at warm idle. It rev's freely and smoothly, kind of like an old beemer 6. The exhaust note is sweet and changes pitch to a Ferrari-like howl above 2500 rpm with the dual Monza exhaust system. No earplugs needed It gets about 24 - 27 mpg on the back roads where it was meant to be driven IMO, having only a 4-speed. The 2.5L engine is surprisingly torquey below 2,000 rpm due to a 3.75" stroke (the same length as an FE 427!).

I find myself driving the 6 more frequently but less distance, than the FFR lately. It's just so easy to jump in and go, and it has a top!

[Greg_M]

[Kiwiracer]

Greg is the man when it comes to personal knowledge of these cars.
I've admired them since I was a kid in NZ. Seemed like a "man's" sports car....
Anyway, here's a site with some good info.

Vintage Triumph Register - VTR

[ROB J]

You guys might actually convince me to buy one of these things....

Greg, how is the parts availability of these cars? What are the more favorable years?

[HealeyRick]

You sold a HEALEY to buy a Triumph??? I just "defriended" you. All I know is every Healey guy has a t-shirt that reads, "I'd rather push a Healey than drive a Triumph." Start saving your pennies for one of these Stebro systems, $2,000:



Couldn't you have at least found a Porsche?

[Steven K]

I have never owned one of these cars, but for some reason I have always been a big fan. They are the reason I am putting wood on my Cobra dash. Good luck with it.

[Greg_M]

Rob,
Parts are very reasonable, in fact they cost what you would expect to pay for a cheap old American car. For example, rear brake slave cylinders $15, ignition coil $35.00, master cylinder (TRW brand $125, Chinese $69) water pump $45, diaphragm for carbs $3.00, set of 12 valve springs $30, valves $6, pushrods $4......

There are at least 4 suppliers to choose from that stock every nut and bolt all the way to fenders/body panels for all years. Example: MossMotors.com - Restoration Parts And Accessories For British Cars

As far as desirability, some people prefer the 69-73 cars because they have the clean bumpers sans the big rubber boobies that altered the clean look thereafter. All years were around 105 HP and 140 ft/lbs and all years performed about the same. The 69-72 have the black edge gauges that look the most traditional IMO. Later years added a chrome edge. The TR6 weighs in at the same weight as an FFR, about 2,300. There's more foot room in the TR6 but less shoulder room. The trunk is larger. The engine is mounted a good way behind the front axles (like the FFR) thus the long hood.


Here's a video of my car before I bought it. It looks better now after some paint buffing TLC and wider redline tires.



Greg

[TNCobra]

Healey Rick, LOL, that was funny.

Greg, your video is incredibly professional. I hope he car ends up being as good as advertised and I can share my latest addition early next week.

[JKleiner]

Originally Posted by Greg_M

Parts are very reasonable, in fact they cost what you would expect to pay for a cheap old American car. .....Greg

Blast you Greg Marsh!
Because of you (and TNCobra) I've been up half the night with thoughts of a project spinning through my head

Jeff

[TNCobra]

Couldn't you have at least found a Porsche?

I found that in the area of interest 65-73 911, that I was not finding cars that I could comfortably take on as projects. One unexpected engine issue would put me quite upside down. Decent drivers were mid 20's and was more than I wanted to put into a toy right now.

Its not over until the car is in the garage. I find that cars tend to find me and this TR is calling my name.

[Daddy-O]

Originally Posted by rich grsc

Watch for crankshaft end play. They didnt like having someone ride the clutch, the thrust bearing would go, and then the crank would go.

Ditto. Start the engine with the clutch out and tranny in neutral. And bring a towel when it rains.

TeamTriumph in Warren Ohio are good guys for parts.

[Greg_M]

There are a lot of choices for a car project. A Healey would be awesome but not within my price range. Owning the FFR satisfies my go-fast and attention reqirements but it falls short of my wrench-turning needs.

A TR6 is a cool ride. Being 40 years old and British, there's always something to fix or renew. They are simple and reliable if maintained. The are a great cruiser but don't draw attention like a rock star and that can be good sometimes. You still meet people at gas station and get waves but at a reduced rate. There are more British car groups than Cobra groups around so making friends is easy.

Ken - I though of a few more things to add to your inspection list.

1. Look at the car from the front and verify both front wheels are equal distance under the front fenders. A front/side impact can push the body/frame over to one side. Do the same for the rear. The rear tires may angle in at the top slightly (neg camber) due to the IRS. The passenger side is usually more.

2. Look at the front inner fender wells under the hood for hammer marks, dimples and wrinkles which might indicate a front end collision repair.

3. It looks like the fiberboard radiator shroud is missing on "your" car. Potentially a cooling problem where you live. Replacements are cheap.

4. Inspect the shocks at the rear IRS. They are a strange lever-arm design and will eventually leak. You can easily refill them as needed or replace them. If the car has the after market tube shock modification, be aware that the welding quality of the brackets that are added to the frame may be substandard and quite a few of these break off from time to time.

5. Check the aluminum trailing arm for cracks. Rare but worth a look while under the car. Remember to check for rear wheel bearing play while the car is up in the rear. There should be none.

6. Lift the panel in the trunk and inspect floor for rust and while you are in there ask if you can remove the trunk panel that covers the fuel tank to check it for rust as well as the fender (wings) seams where they bolt to the body. Also check the panel just ahead of the trunk lid from underneath for rust at the seams. Check the lower rear valence for rust near the exhaust exit as this panel is also double wall. There may be some rust at the seams where the valence joins the fenders. It's usually just slow-growing surface rust which can be cleaned and touched up. Shine a light down in the gas filler neck and look inside the fuel tank for rust and corrosion at the bottom.

7. Check the oil for water and look inside the rad for corrosion and oil. Look at the valve train thought the filler. It should be sludge free on that rebuilt engine. Check for leaking brake fluid around the area of the brake and clutch MC's. The thing that looks like a prop valve can leak. It's actually a brake failure warning switch and is repairable for $2. Make sure that area is not rusted though from 40 years of leaking brake fluid. Inspect around and under the battery for rust as well. Inspect the scuttle air intake at the windshield. The airbox can rust through into the car. Check under the dash on both sides for rust from above or leaks from the heater.

8. Bring a fridge magnet to check for filler along the lower half of the body. Check the edges of the trunk and hood because they are double wall and rust from within.

9. Check all the seams between the fenders (wings) and the body. ANY rust creeping out of these areas means rust is worse than you expect between them. Rust here is not a complete deal changer because it can be treated non-invasive to some degree and if the car is kept dry, will not spread for a long time.

10. Check the doors where the windows emerge at the top outer edges for cracks in the metal. There will be a thick welded area there that looks like a repair but that is reinforcement from the factory. Some still crack and can rattle when driving and closing the door.

11. Check for rust inside and under all the fenders around the tires. Check in the rear area of the headlight baskets for rust viewed from inside the front fender wells. Check all around the rear lights especially on the sides for rust. Check the bottom of the doors and the inner door sills and the A and B pillars lower area for rust. Missing lower fender mounting bolts on the under-door rocker sills (black undercoat area) usually means the bolt holes have rusted out and won't hold a bolt any longer.

Good luck and call if you are there and need some info.

[Greg_M]

Some good pricing info here:
Searching Auctions for Triumph TR6 | Keith Martin's Collector Car Price Tracker

A very orinal car that's well photographed and a great reference of how things "should be".
Motoring Investments low mileage Triumph TR6 OverDrive over drive for sale California classified

This one too:

http://www.motoringinvestments.com/Z116.htm

Greg

[HealeyRick]

Greg,

Your car is really a beauty and I've always loved the TR6 with a four outlet exhaust. IMHO, the makers of your video needed more exhaust sound and less background music. In 1972, one of my friends had just bought a new TR6 while I had a new FIAT 124 Spyder and when we traded drives i couldn't imagine two more different sports car engines. His was all torque down low while all mine wanted to do was rev like crazy. You seem to have hit the jackpot in the TR6 lottery. I hope you realized my Healey vs Triumph remarks were just in jest, just part of trying to keep the long established pecking order of British sports cars in play.

Don't know if you've ever seen Calvin Grannis's car:




It's a TR with a bit of a difference and is super sanitary:






Here's the build site: http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/CalvinGrannis.htm

[Greg_M]

Originally Posted by HealeyRick

I hope you realized my Healey vs Triumph remarks were just in jest, just part of trying to keep the long established pecking order of British sports cars in play.

Rick,
I know it's about good-natured banter. If I could justify an FFR and a Healey (and I looked at several) I would have chosen a Healey. The lines of the 3000 are so beautiful. I swear a buddy of mine bought a Healey ebrake lever and built his entire FFR around that single original artifact.

Greg

[Ray]

Back in high school I helped a friend drop a Datsun engine/trans combo into a TR-6. We also got rid of the English electrical system at the same time.

It was a fun car to drive though.

Ray

[cwood]

Originally Posted by HealeyRick

Greg,

Your car is really a beauty and I've always loved the TR6 with a four outlet exhaust. IMHO, the makers of your video needed more exhaust sound and less background music. In 1972, one of my friends had just bought a new TR6 while I had a new FIAT 124 Spyder and when we traded drives i couldn't imagine two more different sports car engines. His was all torque down low while all mine wanted to do was rev like crazy. You seem to have hit the jackpot in the TR6 lottery. I hope you realized my Healey vs Triumph remarks were just in jest, just part of trying to keep the long established pecking order of British sports cars in play.

Don't know if you've ever seen Calvin Grannis's car:




It's a TR with a bit of a difference and is super sanitary:






Here's the build site: Calvin Grannis' 1974 Triumph TR6 / Chevrolet LS1 5.7L V8 Conversion

Love to hear this thing

[HealeyRick]

Originally Posted by cwood

Love to hear this thing

How's this?

Calvins second dyno run - YouTube

Calvins second dyno run - YouTube

408/393

[keithfly1]

One of my buddies had one, so here's my advice, based on his experience: (1) Get a repair manual, read it, know it, cover to cover. (2) learn how to work on it yourself or find out what your mechanic's favorite beer is. (3) DO NOT depend on it for your only transportation!
(4) read #3 again. He even had signs he put in it at car shows that read - "The British drink hot beer because they have Lucas refrigerators." And another that read - "All parts falling off this vehicle are of the highest British make and quality." Also, "Joseph Lucas - The Prince of Darkness."

All that being said, we had more laughs and fun in that car than any other car either of us ever owned, (except maybe the old beat-up, POS Pinto we always used as a demolition derby car; the trash cans in the alley never stood a chance, but that's another story) Enjoy, they're a hoot to drive and one of the best looking British sport cars ever made!

[Greg_M]

Originally Posted by keithfly1

DO NOT depend on it for your only transportation!

Good advice there.

Yesterday I went out for a drive in the 6. The day was like every other day lately, hot but this time also VERY HUMID. While backing out of the driveway I noted a miss or two. OK she's just getting warmed up. As I drove I noted a few more and then a few more. Headed back home.

I checked the spark at the coil and it was great. At the end of the coil wire TINY. I measured resistance of the coil wire and it was 6 meg Ohms. I checked the other wires and 4 of the 6 were either open or way above the 25k Ohm/meter spec. The 40 year old original green ignition wires I was proud to own are shot. Ordered a reproduction set of green wires for $15 and the original ones went into the box with the other original parts that don't work anymore.

Check out the 4-1972 date code.


and on the coil which still works for now...


Greg