2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Crank Position Sensor? - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
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2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Crank Position Sensor?

Has anyone changed one? My daughter's vehicle was running perfect when she parked it and then later it refused to start. She has plenty of gas and didn't recently buy gas. The battery is good and the engine cranks, but doesn't start.

I'm heading to her house this weekend for the purpose of trying to fix it. Internet research seems to indicate that the Crank Position Sensor is the most likely cause. The non-gear heads claim that it's VERY hard to reach and some claim to have spent hours working on it. Is it really that difficult? Any tips from anyone that has already dealt with this problem?

Some of the other less likely problems are CAM position sensor, TPS, ECU, fuel pump, fuel filter, etc.. I've read over and over that it's only a matter of time before the Crank Position Sensor fails on these vehicles. I'm going to just pull the sensor and check it first since so many people seem to have had this problem.

Thanks!

Joe - Texas Cobra Club - DFW

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 10:04 AM
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Does that kind of failure throw codes?
Good Luck

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 11:19 AM
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joe is your car a 4.0 or a 4.7? if you have a 4.0 you need to drop the transmission cross member then remove the tranny shift cable to gain access to the 11mm bolt holding in the crank sensor , the crank sensor looks like a chapstick only a littlw wider the plug for the crank sensor is on the passenger side of the engine block closer to the firewall.

if you have a 4.7 the crank sensor is on the side of the engine you have to remove the starter to access it, it is held in with a 13mm bolt, these suck it will either come right out or you have to fight with it they made the mistake by putting a o ring to far inbound , i have had some that break apart and still wont come out, if this happens just knockmit into the block it will fall into the oil pan, i know it is not ideal but you have to do what you have to do ?.

the only way really to check if you have an ociliscope to check the signal, usuall on the v8 i would change both cam and crank, it always seems after you change one the other fails soon after.

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Last edited by wrench87; 03-02-2012 at 11:20 AM. Reason: correction
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrench87 View Post
the only way really to check if you have an ociliscope to check the signal, .
Joe
That is the right way of checking a crank/cam sensor, but if you are stuck, you could always use a multi-meter set on "AC" and should give you a reading.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=XsTvKgWZxP4
Also for more help you could always check jeepforum.com, lots of information there.
T

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I was planning to check the CPS with a multi-meter. wrench, it's a 4.0 engine. thanks for the info about removing the transmission cross member. I hadn't read anything about that. Is it just a few bolts? Any details about the cam sensor?

Joe - Texas Cobra Club - DFW

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 03:43 PM
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the reason you have to remove the cross member is to lower the tranny so you can access the sensor the shift cable is right in the way of the sensor, use a flor jack to lower the tranny if you are doing it on the floor. other note depending on the year your new sensor may come with a piece of round like cardboard on the tip of the sensor leave this on it sets the depth of the sensor when you first start it it will get scraped off. the cam sensor on the 4.0 are pretty good but those are easy to change, it is on the pass side of the block where the distributor would be on a earlier motor now it sits on top of the oil pump drive 2 little bolts and it comes off and just unplug the sensor.

go to rockauto.com and put in your vehicle you can see pictures of what the sensors look like and get an idea what they cost, if not going oem, i always like standard the ones in the red box they are good quality.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wrench87 View Post
the reason you have to remove the cross member is to lower the tranny so you can access the sensor the shift cable is right in the way of the sensor, use a flor jack to lower the tranny if you are doing it on the floor. other note depending on the year your new sensor may come with a piece of round like cardboard on the tip of the sensor leave this on it sets the depth of the sensor when you first start it it will get scraped off. the cam sensor on the 4.0 are pretty good but those are easy to change, it is on the pass side of the block where the distributor would be on a earlier motor now it sits on top of the oil pump drive 2 little bolts and it comes off and just unplug the sensor.

go to rockauto.com and put in your vehicle you can see pictures of what the sensors look like and get an idea what they cost, if not going oem, i always like standard the ones in the red box they are good quality.
Thanks, great information!

Joe - Texas Cobra Club - DFW

FFR MKIII Roadster #5392, '89 donor, 306 EFI, T-5
GT40P-Heads, 3-link 3.55 gears, 4 Wheel Disk Power Brakes,
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 08:52 PM
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Before you throw a crank sensor, be sure to check the basics first. I had an 97 jeep who did the same a couple of times and it ultimately turned out to be an intermittent coil.
good luck (I have a 2001 GC now, so please report back!)
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-02-2012, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Before you throw a crank sensor, be sure to check the basics first. I had an 97 jeep who did the same a couple of times and it ultimately turned out to be an intermittent coil.
good luck (I have a 2001 GC now, so please report back!)
timm
I'll do it.. I'm heading over there tomorrow.. Just got back from Sears. I purchased a few longer 1/4" drive extension bars and one flexible extension bar. I'm going to be stubborn and try to reach it without dropping the tranny. Guess I'll empty out my tool box and take everything plus the kitchen sink with me. I hate going to a remote location to do a repair and later discover that I forgot to take a needed something with me.

Joe --

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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Mission accomplished... I unbolted the four driver side transmission cross member bolts which allowed the transmission to drop down about one inch. I was then able to get an 11MM socket on the bolt by using about 18" worth of 1/4" extensions. I spent the better part of 30 minutes trying to blindly wiggle the sensor out of the bell housing using two fingers and thumb with my head up against the side of the transmission. Turns out that I discovered that I needed to pull the sensor out about half way and then rotate it to get it the rest of the way out..

I then got the new sensor inserted and bolted into position and then spent another few minutes trying to feed the wiring harness over the top of the tranny and up into the engine compartment. This was pretty difficult and I had to basically lay across the passenger side of the engine and extend both of my arm down deep in order to get the wiring connected. Long story short, the brand new Chinese made sensor was BAD!

I then got to do the pain in the arse job again since I now needed to remove the bad sensor. At the parts store I spent an extra $10.00 and purchased the more expensive one with a lifetime warranty that was made in Mexico instead of China..

I was able to install the second one in about 30 minutes after learning the tricks the first time around...

Joe - Texas Cobra Club - DFW

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Last edited by Joe; 03-04-2012 at 06:24 PM.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 12:13 PM
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Ahhh that sucks when you need to job twice. Happy it worked out

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 12:35 PM
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I remember we did one not long ago in our shop. A hoist made a world of difference for access. Couldn't imagine doing laying on my back. Yes, getting bad parts and having to do a second time is frustrating. I replaced 2 accelerator pedal position sensors on a Trailblazer on the same vehicle over 2 years with the same problem of loss of power when weather turned cold. Did a whole mess of other things, upgrade throttle body, reflash computer, and problem with same code still existed. Bought a new pedal sensor from GM and the vehicle has run perfect. A lesson learned for me on which products to purchase.

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Couldn't imagine doing laying on my back.
You could say that again.. Today I feel like a truck ran over me. I hurt everywhere.. I'm getting too old for this kind of stuff..

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 08:55 PM
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Help!
My daughter's 2001 Grand Cherokee Laredo Jeep L6 was having intermittent stalling problems. It finally got to where it wouldn't run for more than a few minutes.
I replaced both the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor (just the top sensor), and now it won't start at all.

I have double checked to make sure all connections are tight and that the crankshaft position sensor is fully seated.

Help!

It was a pain to get the sensor routed to the bellhousing, but I had it in a plastic baggie until I inserted it into the hole....could dirt on it be the problem?

I used Mopar parts, the exact part numbers recommended by the dealer.

I have swapped the camshaft sensor back to the old one and no luck. My next thought is to swap the crankshaft sensor back, but at $7 per spacer, I don't want to do that too many times!

Help!

Car was throwing P0320 code prior to any work.

Thanks!
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