Question on finishing of wood with Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish
I am in the final stages of building a new coffee table. Long story short, I built the table out of maple and pained the bottom legs, frame, etc. with white paint. That all came out to my liking.
The top of the table is maple as well and I chose to use Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish. The issues I am having are:
1.) Seem to have debris in the finish (little dust or dirt dots littering the surface after sealing). I followed the directions on the can (sanded with 220), removed dust with tack cloth and then followed up with a damp paper towel. Once this did not work, I went back with a heavier grade paper, then came back to 220. Same thing, still have the spots. Thinking that I did not sand down far enough to remove them.
2.) Top of the table is approximately 40" x 24". When laying down the sealer, I am finding that I am not getting an even finish. Some spots are glossy with a nice smooth finish, other spots seem "thin" where it does not seem like I put enough product down. The can says to apply thin coats, but when I do I seems as if I had put more product down it would have come out glossy and smooth like I am looking for.
1.) Using high quality synthetic brush as can directs me to.
2.) Brushing in one direction while trying not to "over brush"
1.) Other than the above problems/possible solutions I am looking for, should I try using a sponge brush? Would this apply a more even, smooth coat?
Carbed 351W w/Levy Racing Super Alloy T-5; Levy 5-Link rear suspension w/ Street Bump Steer; Pin-drive; powder coated frame and heated seats.
I have seen new brushes with a little bit of grit in them and will wash them prior to using.
I would also suggest that you look in the can and see if you can see particles.
You may need to strain the polycrylic.
I dont like using the foam brushes as they seem to leave small bubbles in the finish and you end up over brushing trying to get rid of the tiny bubbles.
You may have better results if you thin the clear slightly.
I would recommend loading the brush with the finish fairly good and use smooth, slow, even strokes and make sure that you overlap the last brush stroke about 50%.
Finally, I would like to remind you that you will need to do several coats-
1- build up several coats and then wet sand or;
2- do a coat and let dry according to directions and then lighty sand with 220 and then repeat until you are satisfied and finish of with 400-600 grit for a super slick finish.
Are you sanding the surface smooth between coats or are you waiting to sand the finish until all coats are applied? If you don't sand the surface between each coat you will get particles stuck between each coat. So I am going to say that you probably haven't sanded deep enough if that is the case. I always get dust particles on the guitars I build in between the finish coats hence why you sand between each coat. Also, to save you future headaches, spend the cash on a high quality waxing towel to wipe the finish down after you use the tact cloth. (It won't leave the particles that the paper towel does.)
Also, I have used that minwax product many times and I have come to the conclusion that you have to apply a thicker coat then what they suggest when using a paint brush to get a smoother even finish with it. People may argue, but that is what I have learned from using the product.
Don't use a brush or roller, use one of those flat pad thingies. If your using a satin finish use gloss for the first coats then satin for the final otherwise it will end up kinda cloudy. Posted via Mobile Device
is it gloss, semi-gloss or satin
i prefer satin because on a table the finish will polish itself over time and shows less imperfections.
you need to use a different paint pot, do not work out of the can.stir don't shake varnish
first coat i normally thin a little and fine sand between with 4 ought (0000)
steel wool or a scotch brite. you can make your own tack rags with varnish on cheese-cloth let sit for an hour or 2 after squeezing out. or buy them.
after sanding between coats wipe down and apply 2nd coat at recommended time frame. you can strain the varnish with a womens stocking see if your neighbor has any of your wives
the other trick to a good finish is the brush and its size. a top i would use a 3-4 inch china-bristle a good Purdy brand, they don't come cheap and make sure you clean it well so it can be used again.
"Torque is the grunt
that gets us going, and Horsepower
is the force that keeps us moving"
MK3.1 #6945 her name is Buffy
p/u 04/04/09 roller 08/27/09
start-up Pearl Harbor Day 12/07/10
go-cart Memorial Day 2011
body on 11/11/11 Veterans Day
all legal except paint 02/12/12
Welcome to FFCars! The
representations expressed are the representations and opinions of
the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the
opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website
has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members
and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five
Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any
purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the
Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five
Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to
post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is
owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages
posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these
messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason
whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your
messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with
respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s).
Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory