Question on finishing of wood with Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum
FFCars.com Forums Advertisers Build Sites FFR FAQ Gallery

Go Back   FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum > Off Topic > Off Topic Discussions
Register Garage iTrader FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read Auto EscrowAuto Loans


FFcars.com is the premier factory five cars Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-30-2010, 02:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
Charter Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
accobra66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: MI
Posts: 1,197
Question on finishing of wood with Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish

I am in the final stages of building a new coffee table. Long story short, I built the table out of maple and pained the bottom legs, frame, etc. with white paint. That all came out to my liking.

The top of the table is maple as well and I chose to use Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish. The issues I am having are:

1.) Seem to have debris in the finish (little dust or dirt dots littering the surface after sealing). I followed the directions on the can (sanded with 220), removed dust with tack cloth and then followed up with a damp paper towel. Once this did not work, I went back with a heavier grade paper, then came back to 220. Same thing, still have the spots. Thinking that I did not sand down far enough to remove them.

2.) Top of the table is approximately 40" x 24". When laying down the sealer, I am finding that I am not getting an even finish. Some spots are glossy with a nice smooth finish, other spots seem "thin" where it does not seem like I put enough product down. The can says to apply thin coats, but when I do I seems as if I had put more product down it would have come out glossy and smooth like I am looking for.

Notes:

1.) Using high quality synthetic brush as can directs me to.
2.) Brushing in one direction while trying not to "over brush"

Questions:
1.) Other than the above problems/possible solutions I am looking for, should I try using a sponge brush? Would this apply a more even, smooth coat?
__________________
Carbed 351W w/Levy Racing Super Alloy T-5; Levy 5-Link rear suspension w/ Street Bump Steer; Pin-drive; powder coated frame and heated seats.
accobra66 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-30-2010, 03:03 AM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
osomxl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Mexicali Mexico Baja California
Posts: 402
Are you using a new can?

Is your brush clean?

I have seen new brushes with a little bit of grit in them and will wash them prior to using.

I would also suggest that you look in the can and see if you can see particles.

You may need to strain the polycrylic.

I dont like using the foam brushes as they seem to leave small bubbles in the finish and you end up over brushing trying to get rid of the tiny bubbles.

You may have better results if you thin the clear slightly.

I would recommend loading the brush with the finish fairly good and use smooth, slow, even strokes and make sure that you overlap the last brush stroke about 50%.

Finally, I would like to remind you that you will need to do several coats-
1- build up several coats and then wet sand or;
2- do a coat and let dry according to directions and then lighty sand with 220 and then repeat until you are satisfied and finish of with 400-600 grit for a super slick finish.
osomxl is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-30-2010, 12:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
THRAMP-master
FFCars Captain
 
bwana50's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 3,447
Quote:
removed dust with tack cloth and then followed up with a damp paper towel
I'd bet that your paper towel is leaving paper lint on the surface. Tack cloth should be the last step before applying finish.
__________________
FFR3639. 5.0L + Paxton Novi 1000 = 368 RWHP. Need more twisty roads in Kansas...
bwana50 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-30-2010, 01:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
ruffone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,458
Are you sanding the surface smooth between coats or are you waiting to sand the finish until all coats are applied? If you don't sand the surface between each coat you will get particles stuck between each coat. So I am going to say that you probably haven't sanded deep enough if that is the case. I always get dust particles on the guitars I build in between the finish coats hence why you sand between each coat. Also, to save you future headaches, spend the cash on a high quality waxing towel to wipe the finish down after you use the tact cloth. (It won't leave the particles that the paper towel does.)

Also, I have used that minwax product many times and I have come to the conclusion that you have to apply a thicker coat then what they suggest when using a paint brush to get a smoother even finish with it. People may argue, but that is what I have learned from using the product.
ruffone is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-30-2010, 01:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Charter Member
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
hoofa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Hanson MA
Posts: 1,661
Don't use a brush or roller, use one of those flat pad thingies. If your using a satin finish use gloss for the first coats then satin for the final otherwise it will end up kinda cloudy.
Posted via Mobile Device
hoofa is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-30-2010, 04:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Charter Member
FFCars Master Craftsman
 
hoofa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Hanson MA
Posts: 1,661
This is a thingie: http://www.easy-house-painting-tips....ting_Pads1.jpg
hoofa is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-30-2010, 06:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Brian F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fall City, Washington
Posts: 4,852
When using Minwax, I do multiple coats (such as 5 - 10) and do very thin coats. Worked well so far...
__________________
Non-Donor MKIII Delivered Oct. 18, 2005
Complete June 21, 2006

351w 400hp, T5, 3-link, 3:55

My Picture Site
Brian F is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-30-2010, 07:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
Charter Member
FFCars Craftsman
 
accobra66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: MI
Posts: 1,197
What I am finding is that when I do "thin" coats, I have brush marks.

1.) Do you do the thin coats one after another or after each coat cures? Can says to cure so I would think that is correct.

I tried putting on two heavy coats this morning (one after another) and that has produced the best results yet but still not the way I want. RRRRR
__________________
Carbed 351W w/Levy Racing Super Alloy T-5; Levy 5-Link rear suspension w/ Street Bump Steer; Pin-drive; powder coated frame and heated seats.
accobra66 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-30-2010, 07:48 PM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
FFCars Captain
 
BigLeo69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: st. louis missouri
Posts: 4,433
Garage
Wink

is it gloss, semi-gloss or satin
i prefer satin because on a table the finish will polish itself over time and shows less imperfections.
you need to use a different paint pot, do not work out of the can.stir don't shake varnish
first coat i normally thin a little and fine sand between with 4 ought (0000)
steel wool or a scotch brite. you can make your own tack rags with varnish on cheese-cloth let sit for an hour or 2 after squeezing out. or buy them.
after sanding between coats wipe down and apply 2nd coat at recommended time frame. you can strain the varnish with a womens stocking see if your neighbor has any of your wives
the other trick to a good finish is the brush and its size. a top i would use a 3-4 inch china-bristle a good Purdy brand, they don't come cheap and make sure you clean it well so it can be used again.

Good Luck
__________________
"Torque is the grunt
that gets us going, and Horsepower
is the force that keeps us moving"



MK3.1 #6945 her name is Buffy
p/u 04/04/09 roller 08/27/09
start-up Pearl Harbor Day 12/07/10
go-cart Memorial Day 2011
body on 11/11/11 Veterans Day
all legal except paint 02/12/12
372w handbuilt
BigLeo69 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT. The time now is 09:39 AM.




The Tire Rack

Intercity Lines

Ford Cobra Engines

Team 3 Wheels:

Midwest Classic Insurance:

FACTORY FIVE ROADSTERS:

ROADSTERS
· Roadster Forum
· 4.6L Roadsters
· Big Block Roadsters
· Non-Ford Powered Roadsters

FACTORY FIVE COUPE/SPYDER:

TYPE 65 COUPES
SPYDER GT

FACTORY FIVE GTM:

GTM SUPERCAR
· GTM Forum
· GTM Classifieds
· GTM FAQ

FACTORY FIVE '33 HOT ROD:

· '33 Hot Rod Forum
· Hot Rod Classifieds

FACTORY FIVE COMPETITION:

· Challenge Cars
· Road Racing
· Autocross / Pro Solo
· Drag Racing

GENERAL FACTORY FIVE DISCUSSIONS:

· Free Photo Hosting
· Tires / Wheels
· Tops & Tonneaus
· Upholstery
· Gallery
· Audio / Electronics
· Car Care
· Insurance / Registration
· Brakes / Suspension
· Ford Big Block Tech
· Ford Small Block Tech
· Forced Induction / NOS
· Fuel Injection Tech

EVENTS:

· National Events
· Southwest
· Northwest
· NorCal
· SoCal
· Southcentral
· Midwest
· Southeast
· Northeast
· Canada

OFF TOPIC:

· Off Topic Discussions
· Other Car Discussions
· Smyth Performance G3F
· Automotive Photography Discussions

CLASSIFIEDS:

· Cobras and Replicas For Sale / Wanted
· Parts For Sale / Wanted
· Donor Cars For Sale / Wanted
· Other Vehicles For Sale / Wanted

NEWS / HELP:

· FFCars.com News
· Forum Help / Test

 


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.5.1
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.


 

Welcome to FFCars! The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the FFCars.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by FFCars.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Factory Five Racing, Inc. or Ford Motor Company for any purpose. "FFR", "Factory Five", "Factory Five Racing", and the Factory Five Racing logo are registered trademarks of Factory Five Racing, Inc. FFCars.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting the FFCars.com Forum dedicated to Factory Five.