Adding a winch to my trailer - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Adding a winch to my trailer

I want to add this storage bin to my open trailer.



I want to add this 4000# winch also



The plan is to house the winch inside the stroage box. Any suggestions on how to do the electrical?

Thanks
Bill

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 02:59 PM
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You can do a simple car battery in the box or wire power from the seven pin harness from the truck. Assuming you have the 7 pin harness.....

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 03:02 PM
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I mounted a seperate battery (Optima Deep Cycle Marine) in the trailer next to the winch. Wired the winch directly to the battery. Any time the trailer is plugged into the truck there is a slow trickle charge from the truck to the battery via the trailer plug and hookup. Works great for me.



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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpowers View Post
You can do a simple car battery in the box or wire power from the seven pin harness from the truck. Assuming you have the 7 pin harness.....
No way that wire can supply enough power for the winch....

You need to add a battery to power the winch somewhere. I have that same winch,
it works very well for pulling dead cars into the trailer. Get the longest remote cord you
can, it helps so you can control the winch and steer the car onto the trailer at the same time.
I think mine is a 35 foot cable which is just long enough - my trailer floor is 29 feet.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 04:36 PM
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What it comes down to is running the winch off of the battery. Usually you will not have enough wire size to power a winch at the back of a vehicle. The vehicle will be charging the battery. There is a charge wire on most tow vehicles these days, it may not have a fuse in the line.

You want a deep cycle battery, sizing should be a group 24 or bigger, bigger really is not necessary.

Good Luck.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks

Bill D
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 05:54 PM
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I have a wich setup on my dump trailer that is wired to the brake battery. As mentioned above, it trickle charges off the GMC whenever it is connected. It's been working great so far, but I agree that when the time comes to replace the stock battery, a deep cycle makes sense.
I had to transport a buddy's broken down old Ford Jubilee tractor to be worked on last Fall, approximately 6000# of locked up machinery. To get it in the trailer I ran my cable out to a snatch block and then back to D ring in the corner of the head board, tilted the bed to level the ramps, and simply dragged that big beastie in. I set the Duramax on a high idle and never lacked for power...thanks no doubt to the snatch pulley cutting the effort in half.
Moral of the story? You might want to include a snatch block pulley setup, and maybe an extra length of tow cable in that tool box. I've only needed to use my block a few times but it has proven to be worth it's weight in gold! Peter

Oh, a PS. That battery is there to power your electric brakes in case of a breakaway. The DOT will test that on the roadside by having you disconnect your trailer 7 pin and try to move. With the lead disconnected, the battery should take over and put on the brakes. Ask me how I know...and yeah, it all worked as advertised.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 06:58 PM
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I have the same box but I have the winch mounted on the trailer deck. The box has a battery in it that re-charges off the 7 pin connector.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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I found this in my research.


It's a trailer winch wiring harness for the above winch. One end hooks to the truck's battery, the other end to the winch. A quick disconnect is in line for ease in connecting and disconnecting the winch. Seperate cables are used on the grounding.

Bill D
FFR 3378 - 503 BB, $old and missed
RCR GT40 - 1051P clone, $old
FFR 7991 - becoming a 289 FIA with a Mr. Bruce body, 331, Webers, T-5, IRS, Vintage Wheels pin drive wheels, and Goodyear billboards

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar View Post
Oh, a PS. That battery is there to power your electric brakes in case of a breakaway. The DOT will test that on the roadside by having you disconnect your trailer 7 pin and try to move. With the lead disconnected, the battery should take over and put on the brakes. Ask me how I know...and yeah, it all worked as advertised.

The way I understand it, and mind you, maybe this is different for the semi-big rigs i learned on, the battery is only for the breakaway system, since the caliper/drum springs should lock the brakes automatically when power is disconnected from the brake system. The battery is for the breakaway, like you said, and only comes on when the breakaway cable is attached to the truck, and pulls the plug when the truck moves too far away, as it would in the case of a breakaway. So pulling the 7 pin should not cause the breakaway battery to do anything. But, again, I admit the systems i learned on were different. maybe the newer 7 pins are a built in breakaway cable, as the older 6 pins required a separate breakaway cable, attached separately from the safety chains and trailer hitch.

yes, Im planning for something that will probably happen in a not-so-nearby future, but trust me, it will happen. -Scott
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 10:47 PM
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Yup, you're right Scott. It was the breakaway lanyard that they required me to pull to check the brakes. My bad. In fact they did tell me of an error I had regarding that cable. It needs to be attached to the tow vehicle separate of the hitch. I had it hooked to the safety chains, now it is separately attached to the hitch subframe. Thanks for correcting that oversight

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-20-2008, 04:20 AM
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2FAST4U, I'd go for the harness. Especially if your only going to use one truck to tow it all the time. Less stuff to worry about. Like keeping that battery on the trailer charged. I store my trailer at my compary yard and there is no power near where I store it. So its a no brainer. Just my 2 cents. Frank

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-20-2008, 11:27 AM
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Another plus for the harness setup is that you can get the jumper cables for those. You can then jump other vehicles...such as the GT40...without popping the hood. It is also safer, as there is no sparking near the battery.
Youo can also hook up inverters for powering power tools etc.
We use those exclusively in the aviation industry on the line equipment. Less chance of blowing up an AvGas truck during jump start and also on our pickup trucks for jump starting 12 volt Cessna aircraft. So it becomes a multi-use harness. Just a thought.
Paul

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-20-2008, 01:46 PM
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Used the trucks battery to power the winch on boat trailers.
Just make sure the cable is large enough and it has a curcuit breaker at the battery.

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