As you have all seen in person or in other threads the cross over with the plastic tanks can be a pain. The FFR panic and crappy solution and instructions made us all wonder if we should even do the stupid thing. Well I did it the way they told us and now have to do it again.
Well I did mine with Pro Seal aircraft sealer the first time and they held until I moved the tank and then leak city. The teflon washers are a joke, the fittings to small for the hole, there is no provision for actually sealing anything. I wish I would never have drilled holes in the tank, live and learn etc.
Well I followed some other members guidance and ordered some parts and this is what I did.
First drained the tanks, wife is still pissed the house smelled like gas for three days. had to remove the seat belts to get the tanks outs and then let everything dry and start new. I tore up one of the fittings as I did not get the nut inside the tank I got the thread, that was my fault but oh well.
First ordered two different orders from McMaster carr They are great but they almost have toooooo much stuff. Anyhow I bought:
Stainless pressure sealing washer PN 93781A051
Buna-N Gasket for hose coupling PN 5345K12 Pack of 10 Anyone need some?
I then modified the stainless washer to fit the fitting, the tabs made it very hard to thread on to the fitting. Without it was still very tight.
Here are the rubber washers:
They are 1.06 ID same as the AN fitting and 1.75 OD which should be enough to make a good seal.
From inside tank. The order is same outside and in. Nut, stainless pressure washer and buna gasket at the tank. The rubber ones start out thick but I compressed them a fair amount, i have no idea of the torque but they are more than just snug.
Then I added plugs to check for leaks, 5 gallons and no leaks. I will leave the cap on for now, because this whole mess started when I was trying to figure out why the AC did not work. Well I need fuel and the passenger tank area accessible which it is not with the cross over hooked up. So I will end up with fuel everywhere again at some point to hook the cross over back up. I may not hook it up, I may just redo the fuel system to have the lines go back and forth to level the tanks, not decided yet.
While I was there the stupid fuel gauge never worked right so I got the Autometer 4310 which is one listed as programmable and decided to program it first. I figured while I had the sending units out I would just be done with it and do it manually I disconnected the ground wire on the fuel pump so it would not run while doing this. I wired up the gauge using jumper wires at first so I could get to everything from the dash with the original gauge out of the dash. Followed the directions on the programming and put the senders (used both, figured why not) in the empty position.
And again in the full position.
Turned off power, put the gauge in the dash with everything wired for final and tried it again going full sweep on the both senders. I used both as that would be the least amount of work to get to the wiring.
I hope this helps someone else. Cheers Richard.
Richard Oben FFR builder www.northracecars.com
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